Ginura flower (lat.Gynura) belongs to the genus of plants of the Asteraceae family, numbering, according to various sources, from 47 to more than 100 species. They grow naturally in the tropics of Asia and Africa. Translated from Greek, ginur means "woman with a tail" - apparently, they meant the long lashes of the plant. Today, some types of ginur are grown in culture as ornamental indoor plants.
Read more about growing ginura below.
Ginur plant - an evergreen perennial shrub or grass with creeping stems reaching several meters in length. The roots of the ginura are tuberous or fibrous, the stems are fleshy, woody with age, glabrous or pubescent. Leaves are alternate, simple, collected in a rosette or stem, petiolar or sessile, fleshy or thin, sometimes pubescent, sometimes not. The underside of the leaves of some species is purple in color. The shape of the leaves is oblong-lanceolate, elongated, ovoid, deltoid or lyre-dissected. The teeth along the edge of the leaves can be small or large.
Flowers are single or collected in axillary or terminal corymbose panicles are yellow, red, purple or orange. In natural conditions, ginurs bloom almost all year round, and their flowering is especially abundant from December to early summer. Since the flowers of the plant give off an unpleasant smell, some growers cut off the buds of the ginura.
In domestic culture, mainly such plant species are grown as orange ginura, braided ginura, climbing ginura and variegated hybrid ginura. Ginura grows very quickly, some of its species are grown as an ampelous plant. It is worth knowing that home-grown ginura species are poisonous, so when caring for these plants, take safety measures and keep them away from pets.
How to grow ginura in an apartment? Indoor flower ginura loves bright light - it is necessary for the plant to maintain a rich color. The best place for ginura will be a window sill with a western or southern orientation, but it should be noted that for a few afternoon hours, when the sun is especially merciless, even ginura will need shading. In winter, when the daylight hours are short, you will have to install additional lighting for the ginur.
Optimal soil for ginura - a substrate consisting in equal parts of sod and leafy soil and humus with the addition of half a part of river sand. You can prepare a different composition for the plant, the main thing is that the soil is loose, permeable and neutral.
In summer, home ginura prefers a temperature of 18-24 ºC, and in winter, if you cannot arrange artificial lighting for it, keep it in a room with a temperature of no higher than 12-14 ºC so that it can rest. If you install a phytolamp near the gyneur, the temperature of the content does not need to be lowered.
During the period of active growth caring for ginura at home involves abundant watering - water it as soon as the top layer of soil in the pot dries out. In winter, if the plant is resting in the coolness, watering is reduced, otherwise excess moisture will lead to waterlogging of the soil and rotting of the roots. If the daylight hours of the plant are organized, as in summer, and the temperature in the room is summer, then watering remains the same as during the growing season. Water the ginura with soft water that has been kept at least for a day, trying to prevent drops of water from falling on the leaves of the plant.
Indoor ginura is undemanding to humidity, but in winter, when heating devices are working, the air in the room is too dry, so it is advisable to place the ginura on a pallet with wet expanded clay or pebbles. It is not recommended to spray the leaves of ginura with water, since the plant may lose its decorative effect.
Ginura maintenance requires pruning - after winter it must be put in order. In addition, pruning stimulates bushiness and rapid growth of ginura shoots. Just pinch off the tops of the ginura stems, that's the whole procedure.
Ginur plant care includes feeding with complex mineral fertilizer twice a month during the growing season. When ginura is in a dormant period, it does not need fertilizers.
Ginura is transplanted as needed in the spring. The fact is that only young plants have a beautiful purple shade of leaves, so it is advisable to rejuvenate an adult ginura every two years with a transplant.
Ginura is propagated mainly by cuttings - this is the easiest way to breed a plant. In the spring and summer, it is enough to break off the apical stalk with two internodes and put it in water - after two weeks the roots will form at the stalk and it can be planted in the ground.
Ginura is very resistant to diseases, but with improper or insufficient care, uninvited guests can settle on it - scale insects, aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies and spider mites.
Shields - these insects stick to the leaves of the plant and feed on their sap, from which the leaves quickly turn yellow, fall off, the ginura stops developing, lags behind in growth, begins to dry and eventually dies. Treat ginura with Actellik's solution and, if necessary, repeat the treatment after a week.
Whiteflies - miniature white moths laying eggs on ginura leaves. In the fight against whitefly, drugs Actellik, Mospilan, Fufanon, Fosbecid and Confidor are used.
Mealybugs or hairy lice - sucking insects that feed on the cell sap of plants. They are called mealy because of their waxy, cottony discharge, which they leave on the leaves and stems. The plant occupied by worms lags behind in growth, and some types of pest are capable of infecting even the root system of ginura. In the fight against mealybugs, the preparations Aktara, Mospilan, Fitoverm, Calypso, Biotlin have proven themselves well.
Spider mites - pests affecting any plants, except water plants. Ticks, like scale insects and scale insects, feed on plant sap. Their presence can be detected by small white dots on the underside of the leaf plate and a thin, almost invisible cobweb. The harm of ticks is not only that they drink juices from ginura, but also that they are carriers of viral infections from which there is no way to cure the plant. The drugs Agravertin, Aktellik, Kleschevit, Fitoverm, Akarin and Oberon destroy ticks.
Aphid - this ubiquitous pest also belongs to sucking insects, and is also a carrier of viral diseases. You can get rid of aphids by repeatedly treating ginura with the same drugs that are effective against spider mites.
There are not many types of ginur grown in the culture. Most often these are orange, rising and wicker ginur.
Evergreen dwarf shrub up to 1 m high with ribbed pubescent shoots. The leaves of the orange ginura are alternate, the lower ones are ovoid, the upper ones are small, pointed, unevenly serrate, petiolate, violet-red. Both the leaves and the stem are covered with purple pile, so the plant appears purple in bright light. Actually, orange ginura is violet ginura. She was named orange for the small flowers of golden yellow or orange collected in baskets. In nature, this species grows on the island of Java.
It looks like orange ginura, but its stems are drooping, which allows it to be grown as an ampelous plant. And in height it is half the size of the orange ginura - no more than 60 cm. The leaves of this plant species are small, up to 7 cm long. The wicker ginura comes from East Africa.
Or ginura rising - a rare plant, often grown in a greenhouse. It is a shrub with large oval, sparsely toothed leaves. The length of its lashes can reach 2 m. Plants of this species look good in ampel compositions.
Surprisingly, unlike the poisonous species grown in room culture, some of the varieties of ginura are medicinal plants, and their healing properties have been known for more than one century.
The type of ginura pinnacle is an expensive and rare medicinal plant that is grown on an industrial scale in one of the Chinese provinces. This type of ginura is widely used in medicine because it contains volatile oils, triterpene saponins, bioflavonoids, polysaccharides, amino acids and trace elements.
The common ginura is a healing plant, well known to the inhabitants of China, America and Japan. The one who eats her food practically does not get sick. It gives strength, improves metabolism, helps in the fight against obesity, lowers blood sugar, lowers blood pressure, cleanses the blood, kidneys and liver from cholesterol. It is enough to use 2-3 sheets of ginura spread a day in the morning before meals, and after two weeks you will notice an improvement in your general condition. Ginura leaves can be added to salads, as they taste like this particular green.
Ginur is popularly called "crocodile". Due to the unpleasant smell of her flowers, she is under the sign of Scorpio, but in fact, ginura well cleans the atmosphere of the house from bad energy, saves from nightmares and from the fear of the dark. The soft leaves of ginura are believed to have the ability to soften the harsh voice and harsh character of a person. By the way, connoisseurs of esotericism argue that the fetid flowers of a plant protect amorous people from mistakes, and therefore they do not recommend cutting them off, and the plant, so that it can manifest this property, is advised to be placed in a shaded place.
And they also say that ginura is in the house - to women's happiness ...
Sections: Houseplants Compositae (Asteraceae) Ornamental-deciduous Plants on G
Skimmia likes abundant bright light, but rather diffuse rays. Direct lighting causes burns on the thin leaves of the plant. It also tolerates partial shade quite well, although with a lack of light it can stretch out strongly and lose leaves.
In the summer, skimmia does not tolerate heat and intense heat. Prefers fresh air, if possible, then in summer it is better to place it outdoors. In winter, it feels good in a slightly cool place with a temperature regime of no higher than 10 degrees.
Skimmia perfectly transfers dry indoor air and does not need additional air humidification.
In the active phase of flowering, in spring and summer, skimmia needs a constantly moist soil. In winter, during dormancy, watering should be reduced, especially if the plant is kept in a cool room.
Planting skimmia is carried out in acidic, humus-rich soil with good drainage. Under no circumstances should chalk and lime be added. The substrate can also be made from loam and peat with a small addition of sand.
From late March to mid-September, skimmia is fertilized quite often, up to 3 times a month, with special dressings for flowering indoor plants.
It is best to transplant skimmia in the spring by matching the pot to the size of the plant. It is very important to take care of good drainage for the plant.
The main problems with the plant arise from improper care and maintenance. Most often, Vriezia is susceptible to the following diseases:
In addition to diseases, the plant is often attacked by pests. such as: scale insects, mealybugs or spider mites. With a weak lesion, the leaves are wiped with a soft cloth dipped in soapy water. And in case of severe infection, insecticidal preparations are used.
Echeveria care consists in following simple procedures, as well as in careful handling of the fragile rosette of the plant. The foliage of the flower has a very thin and easily damaged protective film, so it is better not to touch the succulent leaf blades unnecessarily.
The natural habitat of Echeveria is sultry deserts, so the flower should not be protected from bright light. Bushes will grow best on southern or southeastern windowsills. A small shadow of Echeveria will also be able to transfer, but its outlet can stretch out in such conditions.
In summer, the succulent pot can be airborne. For a flower, you should choose a place sheltered from rains and winds.
Echeveria prefers a fairly high temperature. In summer, it can rise up to 20-28 degrees. In winter, it is recommended to keep the succulent cool. At this time, the room should be no more than 10-15 degrees. The lower threshold for growing echeveria is considered to be 6 degrees Celsius. When growing winter-flowering species, a temperature of about 18-20 degrees should be created for them.
The delicate leaves of Echeveria sharply react to a strong cold snap, so the frosty air can significantly affect the decorativeness of the plant. Because of this, in winter, the flower should be protected from drafts while airing the room.
Abundant watering is not required for the bushes, on the contrary, Echeveria prefers rare and scarce moisture.To do this, use settled or rainwater, warmed to room temperature. In the summer, you can water the plantings about once a week, as the topsoil dries out. It should have time to dry out by about 3-4 cm. In winter, the number of waterings is reduced to monthly.
When watering echeveria, it is important to ensure that drops do not fall on its foliage, as well as inside the outlet itself. Stagnant moisture in these areas can lead to rotting of the bush. To avoid this, you can use bottom watering. Excess water from the pan must be drained: such plants perceive drought better than overflow.
The plant tolerates low humidity levels and can grow well even near batteries. This eliminates the need to spray the outlets.
The root system of Echeveria is located close to the surface of the soil, so the bush will need a shallow, but wide enough capacity. Its size should exceed the diameter of the outlet itself by about 2 cm. It is important that there are drainage holes in the pot, otherwise, with stagnant moisture, the roots of the flower may begin to rot.
To grow echeveria, a fairly poor sandy soil is required. His reaction should be neutral. You can use ready-made succulent substrates or prepare the ground yourself. To do this, mix sand with turf and leafy soil (2: 1: 1) or sand with peat and loam (in the same proportions). To prevent the development of rot, charcoal can be added to the soil. Drainage must be laid at the bottom of the tank. The height of its layer should be about a third of the total size of the pot. Small pebbles, brick debris, clay shards or expanded clay are suitable for this.
Echeveria does not require frequent feeding. During the period of active development (spring-summer), the flower is monthly fertilized with compositions for cacti or succulents, using only half of the recommended dose. Overfeeding the plant is not worth it - excess nutrition has a bad effect on sensitive roots.
Echeveria is usually transplanted in the spring, during this period the bushes begin to grow and more easily tolerate movement. Young plants need to change their capacity every year, adults 3-4 times less often. In the absence of transplants, you can simply replace the top layer of soil in pots.
The transplant process must be carried out very carefully. A few days before the procedure, the plant is not watered in order to transplant it from dry soil. The flower is pulled out of the pot along with a lump of soil, lightly shaking off the old earth. In this case, the roots of the plant should be examined, removing the affected or damaged parts. All sections are treated with a fungicide, and then sprinkled with crushed coal. When transplanting, the roots are straightened. All of them should be directed downward and not bend. From above, the flower is covered with fresh earth, tamping it only slightly. After transplanting, the bush is kept in the shade and not watered for at least a week.
The structure of echeveria does not require pruning. The only sanitary procedure is to remove the drying bottom sheet plates. This keeps the outlets looking attractive.
Pruning can be carried out only if the shoots of the flower are too elongated during the winter. At this time, the top of the rosette is cut off, leaving only 3-4 cm from the ground level. This procedure rejuvenates the plant and stimulates the growth of fresh shoots. The cut off part is usually used for breeding.
Most often, Echeveria bloom in spring or summer. Flowering can last from a couple of weeks to a month. During this period, a vertical or lateral flower arrow appears on the plant, on which small bell-shaped flowers bloom. They are located in inflorescences. In this case, the intensity and even tone of the color of flowers directly depends on the abundance of lighting. If the plant is dimly lit, the flowers will be yellow, and in bright light, their color turns red or orange. Sometimes, after the wilting of the inflorescence, children appear at the ends of the peduncles.
Echeveria begins to bloom only in the 2nd or 3rd year of cultivation. To stimulate it, it is necessary to create the right conditions for the flower. Among them - a fairly long daylight hours (from 12 hours) and a low temperature (no more than 18 degrees). After a couple of months of keeping in such conditions, a peduncle should appear on the echeveria. When this happens, watering should be slightly increased, and the plant should be fed with a specialized fertilizer for flowering species.
The vast majority of Echeveria rest in winter. At this time, plantings require bright light and a low temperature of about 10-15 degrees. Watering is carried out once a month.
For reproduction of tidea, you can use its seeds, cuttings, as well as methods of dividing a bush or rhizome.
Seed propagation is carried out in winter. Sowing is carried out in January or February. Seeds are scattered on the surface of moist soil, which is a mixture of leafy earth with sand. The seeds are not buried. Crops are covered with glass or foil. The shelter is briefly removed daily for ventilation. In a warm place, seedlings should appear in a few weeks. Once the sprouts have formed at least a couple of true leaves, they can be distributed to individual pots. To form a more compact and lush bush, pinch the tops of large grown seedlings.
The tops of the shoots are usually used for grafting tidea. They are cut in the spring or fall, and it is believed that plants rooted in the fall months are more lush. The separated cuttings are placed in water, roots appear on them in a couple of weeks. When the size of the roots reaches at least 1 cm, they are planted in light nutritious soil, 2 pieces per pot to create a more lush bush. It is believed that tydea can be propagated by rooting a peduncle or leaf. They are also placed in water until roots or tuberous growths appear.
Thidea can be propagated by dividing the rhizome. This procedure is carried out in the spring, during transplantation. Long scaly rhizomes are cut into pieces of 3 cm or more, each of which should have shoots and roots. The slices are treated with charcoal powder, dried a little, and then the resulting slices are seated in separate pots. Landings should be deepened no deeper than a couple of centimeters. In warm and moist soil, such parts of the rhizomes will quickly grow. Until shoots appear, water the soil sparingly. Plants obtained in this way bloom in the first year.
You can also share the bush of an adult plant. This is also done in the spring. Each part should have one or more of its own shoots and roots. Too small parts should not be separated - they take root worse than large ones. The divided parts of the bush are distributed in different pots.
Due to the fact that theideas are sometimes called synningia with similar flower shapes, such plants do not have a rhizome, but a tuber. The division of the tuber is practiced only on adult, very overgrown bushes. Usually this process is combined with plant transplantation. A large tuber is cut into several parts. Each of them must have its own roots and at least one growth point. The slices are sprinkled with crushed coal. The resulting cuttings are planted in separate pots with a light and fertile substrate suitable for the flower.
Until the divisions take root in a new place and begin to develop further, they should be kept in partial shade. This usually takes about a week. Thereafter, they are treated as normal ideas.
In Russia, the following varieties are most popular.
A semi-shrub with drooping lashes. It is grown in hanging pots as an ampelous decorative leafy flower. In height, such a plant can reach 60 cm. The foliage is rather small, but long - up to 7 cm in length. In care, it does not differ from other varieties. The flowers are yellow.
This variety is distinguished from other varieties by a pronounced purple color of the veins, the underside of the foliage and its pubescence. In combination with green decorative deciduous houseplants, it looks the most impressive. Leaves elongated up to 10 cm in length curl slightly. The young bush stretches up, but gradually the long shoots bend down under their own weight.
Its long stems reach 1 m. The foliage is green and the edges are serrated. Pubescence is usually lilac or violet. According to the description, the flowers of ginura aurantika are most similar to dandelions and have exactly the same rich yellow-orange color, but they smell very unpleasant.
This variety has recently settled on Russian windowsills. It is distinguished from all others by its edibility. The pale green leaves can be used in the same way as any other spicy greens, for example, for making salads. Shoots grow up to 1 m long. They have valuable healing properties.
It is also called pseudo ginseng. A perennial medicinal plant native to China has long, climbing green shoots. Flowers grow on long legs in the shape of a spherical green umbrella up to 4.5 cm in diameter. It will not work to grow it on the windowsill, since it is rather difficult to buy seeds, but, most importantly, the conditions in an ordinary apartment are not suitable for it.
Some varieties of braided or orange ginura, through selection, have acquired a purple color of pubescence and veins. Seeds of these varieties can be found commercially under various trade names, such as Purple Passion Vine. In care, they have no fundamental differences.
Gynura Purple Passion Vine
This one differs from all other varieties in the color of the foliage. Young leaves at the tips of the shoots have a delicate light pink color, which acquires dark green spots as they age. Leaves at the roots become almost completely dark green with a pink border.
It is difficult to find a more graceful and unpretentious plant for home decoration. Its velvety leaves with purple or purple fluff invariably attract admiring glances, becoming the best reward for a florist. If you wish, you can always pinch off the shoot and share the cut with your friends. Moreover, caring for a ginur flower at home will not be a hassle.