Mustard siderat is a reliable assistant on your site


Mustard is a favorite green manure among adherents of eco-farming. It is able to replace fungicides, insecticides, relieve you from time-consuming digging of the earth, and the site - from many weeds. And all because mustard has unique properties that many gardeners have already discovered for themselves.

Mustard is a useful green manure

There are many types of mustard in nature. The most popular of them are: Sarepta (Russian, gray), black (French, real) and white (English). The latter is used as a green manure.

Mustard yellow is the common name for white mustard. Her seeds are white, and her flowers are yellow.

Mustard is named white because of the color of the seeds, in other species they are black or brown

All types of mustard have similar properties, are used in cooking and medicine, have a pungent taste and pungent aroma, have antiseptic and antifungal effects. Apparently, white mustard in Russia is more widespread and inexpensive, therefore it is its seeds that are sold as green manure in large volumes.

Mustard has a beneficial effect not only on the human body, but also on the soil. She also fights viruses and fungi there, scares away many pests. That is why it is often alternated with potatoes. The earth is freed from late blight and wireworm. In addition, a crop rotation is carried out.

Mustard belongs to the Cabbage family, therefore it attracts cruciferous fleas. Do not sow it in front of cabbage, turnips, radishes, and other crucifers. And do not alternate these crops in the same area. In addition to common pests, they share the same diseases.

Video: mustard has grown

The early maturity and frost resistance of mustard make it possible to grow it in the spring, before heat-loving crops, and at the end of summer - in the fall, after harvesting early vegetables. Seeds are sown before winter. Young plants have no coarse fibers. Mowed before flowering, they quickly rot and turn into humus - food for plants. The roots are fibrous and thin, they are left in the ground. Penetrating the upper layer, like capillaries, they make the soil breathable and loose.

Mustard roots penetrate the ground, making it crumbly

Mustard, sown densely and very early in the spring, is a strong competitor for weeds that are just starting to break out of the ground. It suppresses them with its large leaves and juicy stems, preventing them from reaching the sun, taking food and water.

Even in the whole field of mustard, you will not find a single weed.

Mustard is the first green manure that I experienced on my site and was incredibly satisfied. My potatoes stopped hurting. Two years with mustard, and the worst weed leaves my garden - the loach, which braided everything that it came across. Now only occasionally there are single specimens. And also: my acquaintance with mustard was the beginning of a heavenly life. I haven't been digging for two years, and everything grows great! In addition to mustard, I grow phacelia, vetch, rye, oats, clover. Cereals have a powerful root, I sow them along the fence, so as not to run weeds into the garden. Vetch and clover, with the help of root nodules, concentrate nitrogen in the arable layer. I sow phacelia in front of cabbage, it does not attract fleas, it grows in lush low bushes and serves as a living mulch, retains moisture. Each siderat is good in its own way. This is not to say that some is better. And you can't grow mustard in one place every year. Siderata also need crop rotation.

Video: mustard and phacelia in one area

Application technology

As soon as the ground thaws and dries up, I loosen the top layer with a flat cutter, with it I cut rows 2-3 cm deep. I sprinkle the seeds thickly and level the plot. No return frosts are terrible for mustard, even in Siberia. If it is too cold, it will wait in the ground and rise later. I don’t water, I don’t care. It's time to plant the main crop, the mustard is still low, I make holes right in its rows. I cut it off when the siderat is gaining color, and immediately leave it as mulch. Everything! As you can see, there was no need to dig the ground. For mustard, I plant potatoes, it grows beautifully: the bushes are healthy, the tubers are large.

Rules for sowing and using mustard:

  • Sowing dates: early spring, after harvesting early vegetables and before winter.
  • Sowing scheme: scatter or in rows every 10-15 cm.
  • Seed consumption: 150-300 g per one hundred square meters.
  • Mowing time: when the plants grow up to 20-30 cm. You need to be in time until the mustard greens are coarse and seeds are formed.

If you wait for the pods to form, then the mustard will turn into a weed: the seeds will spread throughout the entire area with tops or wind

Ways to use:

  • Cut with a flat cutter, burying it 2-3 cm into the ground, and leave the mustard greens in place. In the heat, it will dry out and replace the mulch for a while, and in wet weather it will rot immediately and enrich the earth with organic matter.

    Siderat is pruned with a flat cutter just below ground level

  • Sow mustard 1.5–2 months before the onset of cold weather and leave unmown. In winter, it will serve as snow retention, in spring it will protect against crust formation on the ground and erosion. Before planting the main crop, rake and compost or use as mulch.

    If the mustard is left until spring, it will, of course, freeze and dry up, in the spring it will lie on the ground like hay

  • Cut and use together with other grass to prepare green fertilizer.

    Mustard continues to play the role of phytosanitary even in the composition of green fertilizer

  • Lay the green mass under warm beds.

    Siderata are laid in warm beds

  • Mow with a trimmer that chops up the greens, and plug into the soil with a shovel, flat cutter or motor cultivator.

    For mowing and planting mustard, mechanisms are often used: trimmers and cultivators

However, the supporters of natural agriculture are categorically against digging the land, and hence the incorporation of green manure into it.

When growing siderates, the main thing is not to dig up the soil and not get carried away by one type of plant. Siderata must be changed every season, then the soil will become more fertile.

From my own experience I know that the roots of mustard make the earth loose, and by this they free it from digging. But if you dig up the ground anyway, you think that without this agricultural technique nothing will grow, then in the fall the green manure can be buried. Once, when all the crops were harvested, I ran an experiment. I decided to improve a small piece of land. To do this, I dug trenches with a bayonet depth, laid there tops, weeds and green manure. Nearby, I was digging the next one in parallel. With the earth taken out, I covered the previous one, already filled with grass. As a result, the site has become higher. In the spring she leveled it with a rake and planted potatoes. It was there that he turned out to be the most productive. So this method of planting green manures has already been tested, but it is too time consuming, as well as plowing greenery into the ground. Therefore, I no longer dig trenches, I don’t dig the earth, and I don’t close the green manure, but only cut it off. They improve the soil without any digging.

Reviews of gardeners about mustard

Mustard helps gardeners very well. It heals the land after problem crops such as potatoes, tomatoes and strawberries are severely affected by fungal diseases. This green manure structures the soil with its roots, and makes it fertile with its green mass. Easy-to-grow mustard will save you the hard work of digging up the earth and adding humus or manure to it.

[Votes: 3 Average: 3.3]


Is it possible to sow rye in spring as a siderat

To restore the structure and fertility of depleted soils, it is customary to sow rye on the site in the fall as a siderat. The culture is unpretentious, grows quickly, tolerates wintering well, gives a high yield of green mass. The effectiveness of green manure depends on the age of the plants and the method of incorporating the resulting green mass into the soil.

Properties of rye, the effect of use

If you want to improve the structure of the soil in a small area with the help of green manure, the problem of crop rotation arises. Therefore, in the fall, cereals are used, which are not often found in gardens and vegetable gardens.

Properties

Rye has a number of valuable properties that correspond to the agro-climatic conditions of agriculture in central Russia.

  1. The plant is cold-resistant, tolerates temperatures up to 25-30 ° C even in snowless winters, and at the level of the tillering node up to -18-20 ° C, in the spring it starts to grow even at 3-4 degrees of heat.
  2. Rye is not demanding on growing conditions, grows on acidic and slightly alkaline soils, is drought-resistant.
  3. The vertical root system reaches a depth of 1.5 meters by the end of the autumn growing season. Rye assimilates hard-to-reach nutrients even on marginal soils.
  4. The culture is characterized by intensive growth, and as a green manure it takes the third place in terms of green mass productivity.
  5. The roots secrete toxic compounds (colins) that inhibit the vital activity of pathogens and pests, including nematodes.
  6. Rye protects the soil from erosion, and in winter from freezing, keeping the snow well in the sown area. These qualities are beneficial when using rye as fertilizer. The advantage is the low cost of seeds.

The effect of using green manure

The greatest effect is achieved by sowing winter varieties in autumn, in this case, after 1.5 months, rye takes root perfectly and forms abundant greenery. Powerful roots perfectly loosen the soil, increase its breathability and moisture capacity.

The root system is able to assimilate hard-to-reach substances from the lower layers of the soil. By the age of 1.5 months, rye forms a dense herbage, which, when embedded in the soil, is a valuable organic fertilizer, comparable in efficiency to manure.

Siderat is also valuable for its phytosanitary abilities. Due to the intensive growth and tillering of rye, annual and perennial weeds die. The plot is cleared of sow thistle, wheatgrass, buttercup, woodlice, coltsfoot.

Substances secreted by the root system inhibit the causative agents of fungal diseases, prevent pests of vegetable crops from fixing and wintering on the site.

How to grow green manure

The use of green fertilizers requires compliance with certain rules, if violated, you can get the opposite effect.

The late planted green manure will not have time to increase the biomass by the required time.

Too much greenery, when embedded in the soil, will begin to sour, and not decompose.

Overgrown green manures have a too hard stem and microorganisms that process the mass for fertilizers are forced to consume nitrogen from the soil.

Landing dates

Rye is sown as a green fertilizer in late summer, autumn or early spring.

  1. The optimal period for central Russia is considered to be the autumn period from August 25 to September 20-25, immediately after the harvest of vegetables and the release of sown areas.
  2. The adaptability of rye to low temperatures allows sowing it in the later period of autumn, after harvesting carrots, beets, cabbage in October.
  3. Spring rye varieties are sown in early spring, as soon as the soil begins to yield to cultivation. Sowing is carried out in between the ridges or in areas that are not planned to be used this season.

For regular production of biomass, the timing may vary, but sowing in the fall before winter is always more effective, since rye is hygrophilous and uses the natural reserves of water in the soil in autumn and early spring.

How to plant

The winter crop grows quickly and after 1.5 months it is completely ready for wintering.

1. On household plots, rye is sown as the area is vacated. Can be sown in rows at 15 cm intervals, or randomly.

2. On highly depleted soils, mineral fertilizers are applied under green manure. It can be nitrophoska at the rate of 20 g per square meter.

3. Rye consumes a lot of moisture from the soil, therefore, in the absence of rain, it is advisable to water at the preparatory stage.

4. Seeds should be planted densely, spending up to 2-2.5 kg per one hundred square meters. Close up rye seeds to a depth of 3-5 cm with a rake or using a flat cutter. Rye is a real aggressor, actively developing the territory on which it appears. Its sowing is not desirable under fruit trees and shrubs, from which it will actively take away water and food.

How to embed, mow or dig

When planting in autumn, well-rooted plants start growing very early, practically at the transition of average daily temperatures through 2-3 degrees of heat. Usually, by the end of April, rye reaches the required height of 20-25 cm.

The tender, succulent shoots are ideal for obtaining valuable fertilizer. At the siderat, green shoots are mowed and dug up along with the roots. On light soils, rye is planted to a depth of 12-15 cm, on heavy soils - by 6-8 cm. This is a rather laborious method and is not suitable for manual processing of the site.

It is not at all necessary to dig up cereal green manure together with the roots.

The greens are mown and used as mulch.

The roots are left in the ground, where they will rot on their own. After 2-3 weeks, the top layer of the soil should be loosened, and vegetables should be planted in the prepared area.

Oats or rye as green manure, which is better

If we compare two cereals, which are more often used as fertilizers than others, then rye will take precedence.

Unlike oats, it is more productive, appreciated as a winter crop, and better fights weeds and pests. Rye, planted in the fall, allows you to use the site during the off-season, it manages to build up the green mass in the spring by the time of sowing.

Oats, although cold-hardy, freeze out in severe frosts. Therefore, it will have to be sown in early spring so that it gives green mass before the beginning of May.

Otherwise, oats are good, and are considered by many to be the best of the cereal green manure, as it is easier to process.

But it must be remembered that any green manure that was not harvested on time and gave seeds can be regarded in the future as a weed, which will take a long time and painfully to get rid of.


What grass to sow so that weeds don't grow

At the summer cottage, an endless weed control is underway throughout the season. Due to their unpretentiousness, they adapt to any conditions, survive and multiply quickly even on poor soils. There are many ways to get rid of weeds. Among them, special attention deserves the cultivation of crops that suppress the growth of weeds and at the same time improve soil fertility. The question of how to sow a garden so that weeds do not grow has an amazing answer - with green manure or green manure plants.

After the green manures have gained sufficient green mass, they are mowed onto compost or mulch. There is no need to dig up the earth - the roots will gradually rot themselves, fertilizing it. Most of the green manure prefers slightly acidic and neutral soils. You need to choose what to sow a site with taking into account their characteristics.

The benefits of siderates

Siderata are gradually becoming widespread among gardeners, due to their availability and useful properties. Their advantages are obvious:

  • they make it possible to almost completely eliminate the use of mineral fertilizers, since they enrich the soil with microelements
  • restore the soil after acidification with fertilizers
  • loosen, improving its structure
  • activate soil microflora
  • possessing a phytosanitary effect, they inhibit dangerous pathogens
  • suppress the growth of weeds.

Legumes-siderates

The most unpretentious are legumes. This is the most widespread culture, including up to 18 thousand species. Among them are herbaceous plants - annuals and perennials, which grow well in temperate climates. Shrubs and trees are common in the tropics. Peas, beans, lentils and others are typical for Russia.They can withstand light frosts, and begin to emerge at three degrees of heat, which allows them to be used in almost any climatic zone. In addition to edible beans, numerous types of forage beans are used - alfalfa, clover and ornamental - sweet peas, acacia.

Beans can be planted in early spring, and in autumn they produce green mass until the first night frost. Thanks to the nitrogen-fixing bacteria on the root system, the soil after them is enriched with nitrogen in a form accessible to plants. Legumes are good for trees too. The roots of plants, going deep into the soil, will become a source of nitrogen for them.

Broad beans

On marshy or clayey soils, it is recommended to plant fodder beans. They are excellent siderates due to their characteristics:

  • plants have a well-developed root system, capable of draining and structuring the soil up to two meters deep
  • normalize soil pH, reducing its acidity
  • convert phosphorus compounds into a form accessible to plants
  • they are cold-resistant and are not afraid of frosts down to minus eight degrees
  • beans are also rich in minerals.

Donnik

It is a large green manure plant with powerful roots that go deep into the soil. It tolerates frost and drought well, improves the soil structure of salt marshes. It can be used to combat wireworms and other pests. Melilot is usually planted at the end of summer and left for the winter, in the spring the green mass grows again, which is cut off before flowering.

Sainfoin

Perennial honey plant sainfoin stands out with unique green manure characteristics:

  • it is able to germinate even on stony soils
  • thanks to strong and long roots, up to 10 meters, it perfectly drains the soil and carries nutrients from the deep layers closer to the surface
  • the plant is resistant to drought and frost.

Other members of the family

  1. Peas have all the properties of green manure legumes. It grows quickly, does not allow weeds to multiply. The plant prefers neutral soil, loves moisture. Peas are usually planted in late summer, and until autumn they gain sufficient green mass.
  2. In early spring, it is useful to sow tomato beds with vetch - an annual leguminous green manure plant, which quickly gains green mass, inhibits weeds and structures the soil. The vetch is cut 10-14 days before planting tomato seedlings.
  3. Lupines can be sown in abandoned areas. Siderat grows well on any soil, noticeably improves their fertility and is considered the best predecessor for garden strawberries.
  4. Alfalfa is an excellent perennial green manure that increases soil fertility with green mass, rich in nutrients. The plant loves moist, but not swampy, neutral soils. It is mown during the period of bud formation.
  5. Seradella can produce two crops of green mass in one season. This moisture-loving annual plant can grow in poor soils as well if it is watered. Easily tolerates frost.

Cruciferous

Plants from this family are distinguished by their unpretentiousness and vitality, and their root secretions scare off many pests and inhibit late blight pathogens.

Mustard white

An annual herb of the cruciferous family - white mustard is quite resistant to frost, it can be planted in the middle zone of the country in March. As a siderat, it has the following characteristics:

  • suppresses the growth of weeds - is an effective remedy against bindweed
  • binds iron in the soil, thus protecting plants from late blight
  • oppresses pests such as pea moth, slugs
  • the resulting green mass turns into humus useful for plants
  • mustard gives roots up to three meters long, loosening and draining the soil
  • keeps nitrogen in it
  • after the first snow, the stems and leaves fall on the ground on their own, forming mulch and protecting it from frost
  • after mustard, it is good to plant tomatoes, cucumbers, potatoes, and beans and grapes feel comfortable next to it
  • as a wonderful honey plant, it attracts bees to the garden.

Related plants

  1. Rape is characterized by resistance to light frosts and a quick set of green mass - in a month it can grow up to 30 cm. With the help of long roots, it extracts mineral compounds of phosphorus and sulfur from the soil and transforms them into a form available for garden crops.
  2. Oil radish is the most unpretentious plant of this family and a wonderful green manure, which is not afraid of either drought or frost. Thanks to its strong root system, it perfectly adapts to a wide variety of growing conditions. Depressing effect on wheatgrass. Even with late plantings, it manages to gain significant green mass.
  3. Ripe a is an annual moisture-loving green manure. Even planted in September, with abundant watering, it quickly gains in green mass.

Cereals

Cereals are excellent green manure. They effectively remove weeds and fertilize the area.

A green manure plant that grows well in acidic soils, and its roots have a phytosanitary effect against root rot. The cereal is usually sown in early spring, when the frosts recede, and the green mass is harvested before flowering. Its green sprouts are very beneficial for the body. Oats enrich the soil with potassium in a form available to plants, so tomatoes, peppers and eggplants feel good after it.

Due to its frost resistance, rye is more often used as a winter crop, sowing at the end of August or in September. It effectively suppresses both weeds and pathogenic microflora. Rye has a depressing effect on other crops, so you should not plant garden plants next to it. Usually, the green mass is cut at the end of spring, before planting vegetables. It is good to plant grass in wetlands to drain them.

Barley

Possessing all the positive properties of green manure, barley is drought tolerant, which allows it to be used in arid regions. It is able to withstand frosts down to -5 degrees and quickly builds up green mass. Therefore, barley can be planted in early spring, and mowed after a month and a half.

Buckwheat

Excellent green manure properties are observed in buckwheat:

  • it grows very quickly, simultaneously with the green mass, growing long roots up to one and a half meters
  • buckwheat is drought-resistant and does not take water from neighboring plants
  • it is well adapted to any soil and does not leave chemical compounds in them that inhibit the growth of other crops
  • enriches the soil with phosphorus and potassium
  • effective against perennial weeds such as wheatgrass.

Buckwheat can be used as a winter crop. It is often used to plant trunks around trees in gardens. In the spring, you need to sow it when the soil warms up enough. The green mass of buckwheat is mowed before flowering.

Phacelia

Phacelia is versatile in its green manure properties:

  • it can withstand fairly low temperatures - up to minus nine degrees
  • grows even on rocky soils, quickly gaining green mass
  • not afraid of drought
  • you can sow a site with it almost at any time - in summer, autumn or early spring
  • the plant has a phytosanitary effect on the nematode and various pathogens
  • after its sowing, almost all crops grow well
  • in the presence of legumes, their mutual action is enhanced.

Amaranth

It is better to plant the beds that are free after early vegetable crops with this thermophilic plant, and you can mow the green mass before flowering or before autumn frosts. It is unpretentious, takes root on both salty and acidic soils, and is not afraid of drought. Thanks to its long, two-meter roots, amaranth improves the structure of the soil and increases its fertility. The plant is resistant to disease and has phytosanitary properties.

Calendula

An irreplaceable green manure for tomatoes, as well as for joint plantings with eggplants and potatoes, is calendula. It belongs to medicinal plants that have a healing effect on the soil. It is planted by the end of August and the resulting green mass is mowed in the fall.

Conclusion

Not all plants have green manure properties, but their list includes up to 400 names. These crops can be planted on the site all summer, alternating free areas, and the cut grass can be used for composting. Siderata are successfully replacing chemistry, and today gardeners and gardeners are increasingly using these unique plants.


About mulching and miscellaneous personal.

I had a little free time, a cup of coffee nearby, and it’s time, perhaps, to sum up the intermediate results of my experience with mulching the garden. No pictures, but in essence. I apologize for the non-colorfulness of the recording from those who will read.

I read all sorts of garden books, not really delving into the topic, a little on top, but. trying to grasp the essence and have time to apply it in practice. I liked the mulching theme. Ours use it too. and foreign gardeners. On the surface of the idea - you fill up useful plants with something from above, and you don't need to weed, and weeds don't grow. Beauty.

My garden is overgrown with bindweed, dandelions, a little knotweed and wheatgrass, a lot of weeds from the genus milkweed, propagating roots, a little chicory and burdock. In a word, an overgrown vegetable garden. On the one hand, this is our policy. There are many bushes on our site, water is rarely given, it grows better in grass without watering than on bare ground. Plus, the grass hides from prying eyes. But. overgrown already a lot. Already little useful is growing))

The earth is loamy, heavy. Novosibirsk region.

And I began to experiment with mulch. I decided to start last fall. Since autumn, 2 beds with garlic and onions have been mulched, one with birch and maple foliage, the other with sunflower husk from mushroom production. A bed of winter beets with onions was also mulched with seed husks, and strawberries were entirely covered with fallen needles with sand and birch leaves. Irga and black chokeberry last summer were mulched with fresh coniferous sawdust, there was no opportunity to use rotted sawdust. I have no access to deciduous sawdust.

Mulch foliage podwinny beds: beauty !, grows amazingly, little hassle, but bindweed and milkweed weeds climb, minimal weeding is needed, watering is not necessary. The tips of the leaves of garlic and onions turn yellow, you need to feed it with something nitrogenous.

Sawdust mulch: I was prepared, the bushes were fed with nitrogen. There was a slight enlightenment of the leaves, but in general the volume of vegetation increased, there were many flowers, a lot of ovaries, there should be a crop. Last winter, the black chokeberry was severely frozen; over the summer, it was almost restored. Sawdust mulch is a plus sign. I did not check sawdust on the beds. I want to check.

Mulch with sunflower husks from mushroom production: This mulch is not for, but from. Almost nothing really grows in it. The mulched bed of beets and onions with garlic died almost completely, although there were shoots. Dandelions mulched in the aisles between currant bushes did not bloom in May, and had 2-4 buds, when unmulched dandelions were in full bloom, they had 2-3 times more abundant foliage, and 7-15 flowers. It retains moisture poorly / but retains it. We had to rake off the husk from the beds and spill it with fertilizers. After about a week, what survived began to grow. Podzimny onions from the set already have a large head of store size.

Mulch with needles / sand / leaves: the strawberries wintered well, but in the spring you need to rake off the mulch so that the earth thaws. The strawberries mulched during transplantation (transplanted in the spring, the husband insisted that it was necessary to transplant only in the fall) gave a crop. The mustache is growing. Watering is desirable, but not required. Weeds such as milkweed and bindweed grow, weeding from perennial weeds is needed. Beans are planted in strawberries - they grow amazingly, tall, bobbins are tied, which is quite early for our area.

The cardboard is thick and unpainted. Used it a little. Of the minuses - not beautiful. From the pros - the weeds turn pale, are depleted, it is easier to dig and plant in this land.

Earthworms do well in all types of mulch. The earth has become looser, there are many worm moves.

Minuses. Slugs. Yes, they multiplied. Some of the seed-planted pumpkins and zucchini were brazenly eaten. Presumably, 2 pepper bushes were eaten by slugs. (At first I thought about caterpillars and beetles, but tomatoes, cucumbers and eggplants growing nearby are intact.) My slugs are not afraid of pine needles and coffee. I will try ammonia and ash / tobacco with lime. But, in general, slugs live in heavy, unstructured soil (as they say). And the soil in the country is just such, there is something to strive for. Subtracted that when planting plants, you can make a side around them from a plastic jar / bottle, or an iron can. I need to try, because next year I want to try planting tomatoes in the ground with seeds.

General conclusion. Everything that smart and experienced gardeners wrote was confirmed

The husks and waste of mushroom production pull nitrogen from the ground with terrible force. If you have a KAMAZ husk, it makes sense to cover some wild weeds with a thick layer. The weeds will deplete, the earth will become softer, the worms will loosen it up a little, and it will be easier to dig up the site, getting rid of vegetation.

Slugs breed on heavy soil.

Much less watering is required on the mulched soil.

Perennial weeds, including roots, continue to multiply. But it is easier to deal with them, there are fewer of them.

Psychological feature. In general, I think, if you bring mulching to mind and get rid of perennial weeds, the site will look decent, but so far it looks rather strange and peculiar. For example, I like the effect of mulching with cardboard, but my husband does not like it visually. Reviews were also received: "Well, maybe it's enough to carry any different things to the site?" I leave full grass on the paths, or at the place of the cut, in order to press down the roots and new growth - also mulch. The husband, for example, immediately takes the grass to the compost heap. But taking into account my husband's unplanned business trip, I got a head start, and the go-ahead for experiments.

In general, I liked mulching, but doing it automatically, without hesitation, will not work. I will continue to experiment, looking for the perfect solution.

A picture from the Internet, refers to the topic indirectly, but in general it reflects my current summer cottage state


Plant leaves shelter the Earth's surface from harmful ultraviolet radiation. Thanks to them, the soil is covered with a layer of nutritious compost. The roots of green spaces do not allow the soil to deplete, and their remains serve as food for microorganisms. Agrarians try to bring more into the soil than extract from it, so they improve the composition of the soil with the help of green manure plants.

Siderata is a natural fertilizer that grows in the garden along with other crops. The process is that after the greens are thriving, which happens quickly, they are cut and buried in the ground. The roots remaining in the soil rot and saturate the soil with organic matter.

The soil becomes loose and the aeration coefficient increases. As a result, the earth receives valuable nitrogen. Moreover, weeds grow poorly on such soil, and the crops grown are not affected by fungi and bacteria. In fact, it is a natural analogue of chemical fertilizers. Sideration play an important role in the organic way of cultivating the land.

Video "What are siderates for?"

Video about land improvement with the help of green manure: what are green manure, what are they for and how to use them correctly.


Siderata are usually sown in early spring, so that they have time to grow before planting or sowing the main plant. Phacelia can be sown as soon as the ground is free of snow, it perfectly tolerates not only cold, but even frosts down to -8 degrees.It can be sown in rows or scattered randomly (small seeds are usually mixed with sand), then hardened to get a depth of 3 - 4 cm. If the ground is even slightly damp, you do not need to water. After a week, the grass will sprout, after another 5 - it will begin to bloom. Before flowering, it must be cut off, embedded in the ground, digging it up, or left lying on top - anyway, after decomposition, the nutrients will get to their intended purpose, but for now the grass can serve as mulch. After flowering, the greens will become tougher, but less rich in nutrients.

Phacelia can be sown at any time, and in the fall too. Immediately after harvesting (literally in a couple of hours), vegetables are sown on the vacant garden bed, and then dug up before flowering begins. If the grass has not bloomed before frost, you can leave it and dig it up in the spring. A plot with bad, heavy infertile soil can be turned into the exact opposite in 1 year - with the help of phacelia, make it fertile and get a good harvest the next year. To do this, from frost to frost, you need to sow it, cut it off before flowering, dig it up and repeat the whole cycle from the beginning. If you start when the snow melts, and finish just before the very frosts, it will turn out at least 4 times.

Small seeds of phacelia are mixed with sand (for uniformity) and scattered over the site, you can sow in rows, this will not affect the result. After that, you just need to fence it so that there is a small layer of earth on top, you don't even need to water it if the soil is wet after winter. After about 45 days, the grass needs to be dug up. Before that, you can prune with a flat cutter, wait a few days, but not longer, and sow again. Digging allows you to raise the infertile layer from a depth equal to the bayonet of a shovel, and lower the grass to the same depth. When such an operation is performed several times, the grass, which means nitrogen fertilizers, are distributed at a depth of up to 40 cm.The last time before the frost, the grass should not be cut, it is better to leave it for the winter, it will retain more moisture by the spring, and will not allow the soil to wash out or freeze ...


Kurdyumov N.I. Peace instead of protection

Kurdyumov N. I. - Peace instead of protection www. e-puzzle. ru Dear reader! Here is the promised book on how to live on earth with almost no chemicals and fertilizers. It's just that we have not yet realized and mastered the methods by which she has been so successful for so long. Show more

Kurdyumov N. I. - Peace instead of protection www. e-puzzle. ru Dear reader! Here is the promised book on how to live on earth with almost no chemicals and fertilizers. It's just that we have not yet realized and mastered the methods with which she has been successfully improving herself for so long and successfully. I think this is extreme. Everything is affected here: the basics of fertility, the sustainability of agrocenoses, protective agronomy and landscape. We can improve nature! Now many agronomists say: man cannot improve nature. They write: any deviation from nature is obviously losing. But the main thing is that examples of successful practice of natural farming are shown. Well, let's comprehend them together! WORLD INSTEAD OF PROTECTION Natural farming practice ROSTOV-ON-DON VLADIS publishing house MOSCOW RIPOL KLASSIKUDK 635 (03) BBK 42. 3 K93 Kurdyumov NI K93 Peace instead of protection. The practice of natural farming / N.I. Kurdyumov. - Rostov n / a: Vladis M.: RIPOL classic, 20I. -416 p. : ill. ISBN 978-5-9567-0997-9 UD Hide


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