Dieffenbachia video - transplant and care


Indoor flowers not only decorate our home, but also purify the air in it and have a positive effect on family or team relationships. However, only healthy and well-groomed plants can perform these functions. If they begin to suffer from a lack of nutrition, inappropriate conditions or poor care, this can negatively affect the general atmosphere. This is why it is so important to take good care of your plants.

In our article we will tell you:

  • how the transplant of such a popular plant as dieffenbachia is carried out;
  • how to make a substrate for her;
  • what conditions and care are needed for this plant.

Dieffenbachia video

Signs that the pot is small

Good day. Today we will transplant Dieffenbachia, which a long time ago the pot became small: the roots of the plant are already peeping out of the drain holes, the substrate began to dry out very quickly and the roots of Dieffenbachia have nowhere to grow. I prepared pots, mixed sand, vermiculite, universal substrate and Polessky and added coconut fiber lying in water to this mixture.

What is needed for a Dieffenbachia transplant

The pot in which I am going to transplant dieffenbachia is 2-2.5 cm larger than its old pot in diameter. After removing the plant from the pot, you can see that its roots are tightly entwined with an earthen ball. I do not add drainage to pots for plants whose root system grows so quickly, since they have to be replanted almost every year. And now I will not put expanded clay on the bottom of the pot, I will only add a little substrate.

Dieffenbachia transplant

Now you should carefully, so as not to damage the roots of the plant, loosen the surface of the earthen coma with your hands. After that, you need to install dieffenbachia in the center of the pot on an earthen pillow and, adding a substrate and compacting it, gradually fill the remaining space.

Plant care secrets

My dieffenbachia grow very quickly, because I try to transplant them in a timely manner and feed them regularly during the period of active growth - from early April to September. Therefore, the substrate of my flowers is not depleted. After transplanting dieffenbachia, you do not need to fertilize for a month or two. I prefer to feed the plants with liquid organic matter. Sometimes I forget which plant I transplanted, and I can fertilize all the pots, but from the look of my flowers it is not noticeable that they do not like it.

It is very important that direct sunlight does not fall on dieffenbachia, otherwise burns may appear on the leaves. I will rotate the transplanted flower 180 degrees so that its crown develops symmetrically and the leaves are not turned to one side. After transplanting, dieffenbachia must be watered, because it loves moisture very much.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult in transplanting dieffenbachia and caring for it.

Literature

  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the Aroid family
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Indoor Plants Information

Sections: Indoor plants Ornamental deciduous Indoor trees Aroid (Aronic) Plants on D Video


Dieffenbachia care

Dieffenbachia care is common to all aroids. Dieffenbachia with magnificent large variegated leaves, growing and caring for which at home will not cause any particular difficulties.

No house, not even a room, will look cozy without beautiful houseplants. And if today you can buy almost any flower, then you cannot always be 100% sure that it will take root. Each plant needs at least basic care, and if the rhythm of life does not allow you to scrupulously monitor each leaf in your home garden, then the plants must be chosen accordingly unpretentious.

Dieffenbachia is one of the most common indoor plants in our country, which successfully take root at home, office, even beauty salons. But still, like all living things, it requires care, at least elementary.

In the photo, a dieffenbachia flower, like all aroids - the ear is wrapped in a blanket, but it blooms extremely rarely. However, with proper home care, Deffinbachia can bloom.


Dieffenbachia transplant at home

  • slowdown in growth
  • reducing the size of the formed sheet plates
  • rapid drying of the earthen coma after regular watering.

If you remove such a plant from the pot, you will find that the roots have completely occupied the entire volume, and the substrate is practically invisible due to their interlacing. In this case, you need:

  • pick up a pot with a diameter of 1–3 cm larger than the previous one
  • prepare fresh soil and material to replace the drainage layer.

Before transferring the plant into a new container, it is useful to inspect the root system.

With overcrowding or irregularities in watering, it often happens that some of the roots die off or rot. When they are removed in a timely manner, you can not be afraid that after transplantation dieffenbachia will suffer not only from acclimatization, but also from infections developing in the soil.

Darkened from rot, weeping or, conversely, dry roots are carefully removed, and the cut sites are treated with fungicide and powdered charcoal. The green pet can now be transferred to fresh nutrient medium. This must be done in such a way as to preserve as much as possible the integrity of the root and earth coma formed during the growth. In this case, the period of getting used to new conditions will be as short as possible, and the grower will not be faced with falling foliage or other alarming symptoms of plant unhealthy.

Transplanting dieffenbachia at home is carried out in late winter or early spring, when the plant has not yet entered the active growing season. The deadline when the culture can be fully and painlessly transplanted is the beginning of May. If circumstances force you to transfer the plant to a new container in the hot season, this should be done without disturbing the roots. It is better to use a new drainage for each dieffenbachia transplant. And the soil must be sterilized before filling it into the pot.

Young specimens are transplanted annually. These plants grow quickly, but are compact, do not need pruning and can be easily transferred to a larger container.

But how to transplant a dieffenbachia with a long trunk, when the foliage remains only at the top, and a tall unbranched shoot spoils the appearance of the plant?


How to plant a fern in the garden

Ferns are generally low maintenance and hardy, but they do require little grooming to grow juicy and large.

Before landing, you should decide on the location. Remember that these plants are moisture-loving and love shade.

Fern Planting

In order for the plant to please with its attractive appearance, it must be properly planted. Follow this procedure:

  • Prepare the holes on the site, and then create a special soil composition. Usually they use leafy soil, a little sand and peat for this.
  • A little compost is placed on the bottom of the hole.
  • The prepared and moistened fern sprout must be placed in the hole, evenly spreading the rhizome. Do not remove any remaining soil from the specimen to avoid damaging it.
  • Then sprinkle the seedling with soil, and be sure to mulch the top layer.


Diseases and pests affecting the Cotoneaster, and how to deal with them

Aphids are insects that suck sap from stems and leaves and can leave an unsightly trail in the honeydew. You can fight aphids by removing them with a strong stream of water from the hose.

Scabbards appear on stems and foliage and can weaken or destroy plants. They can be controlled by applying insecticides.

A disease called fire blight can sometimes be a problem, causing damage to the branches or, in severe cases, the entire plant. In early spring, look for sores that appear on branches, stems, and twigs, which will soon ooze with a light-colored substance. In late spring, the branches and flowers will turn black and wrinkle. Infected branches must be removed and destroyed. In case of severe infestation, the entire plant will need to be removed and destroyed.

Powdery mildew is a fungal infection that can also occur, although it is not nearly as dangerous as a fire blight. It appears as powdery white spores on branches, leaves and stems, usually in cool temperatures and high humidity.

You can prevent powdery mildew outbreaks by planting plants in direct sun, in well-drained soil, and positioning the plants as recommended to ensure proper air circulation and avoid moisture build-up.


Conditions of carriage

When transporting bee packages, it is better to choose a road with a high-quality surface so as not to shake insects and destroy the honeycomb. In the car, the boxes are arranged in longitudinal rows with sufficient distance between them for good ventilation.

Frames in the box are fixed with special slats (or combs) to prevent vibration. Otherwise, many bees may die. The feeding frames should not be taken too full, as the combs may come off during movement.

If transportation is carried out in a trailer, the package must be at least half hidden in the back.

Families can be transported day and night. If the weather is hot, the car should be parked in the shade during rest. If the road is long, the bees should be allowed to rest for 1 day, so that they collect water and make a cleansing flight.

It is important to take into account that during a long journey a young bee may appear, therefore it must be provided with food (before leaving, stock up on additional honey). You need to water the bee packages at least 1 time in 2 days.

You can check the condition of the bees by listening to the boxes. If the hum is even and calm, then the transportation is going well.

In the practice of beekeepers, two types of bee packages are used:

  • cellular (frame)
  • cellless (frameless).

The cell package is formed from standard Dadan frames in a 3 + 1 ratio. There may be more feed if long haulage is to be expected. The filling of the package in most cases depends on the wishes of the buyer.

A cell-free package is a box whose top, bottom and narrow sides are made of wood. The two wide side walls are mesh. In such a mesh box, a queen bee is placed in a special cage with top dressing (syrup, candy), 1.2 kg of bees, a feeder and a drinking bowl.

Transplanting four frame packages into a hive on video:


Plant care

Environmental conditions play a decisive role in plant life. The main ones are heat, light, air, water, food. Caring for your irezine at home is quite simple. It is necessary to take into account the main features:

  • prefers bright light
  • optimal air temperature 16-25C
  • abundant watering
  • top dressing with organic or mineral fertilizers.

Top dressing

The irezine flower needs to be fed. The plant is fed several times a month with mineral or organic fertilizers.

Lighting

It is advisable to locate Linden's irezine and Herbst irezine on the windowsills of windows facing the south. Bright diffused light will be the main condition for proper care of the irezine.

Fertilizer

Irezine needs fertilization at certain times. Florists often use ordinary yeast. They are useful for the development of the root system, cause active plant growth. Yeast is capable of producing a huge amount of healing substances: phytohormones, B vitamins, auxins, cytokinins. Also, organic or mineral fertilizers purchased in any flower shop can be used as top dressing. They are brought in once a week. In the cold season, the plant grows slowly, so fertilizers are applied less often, once a month.

Watering

Water the plant with settled water at an air temperature. If the water is hard, use water purification filters. Correct, or better to say, timely watering is a matter of experience. If there is any doubt about the moisture content of the soil, you just need to poke your finger on the ground or scratch it. If the soil below the surface is damp, you may not need to water it yet. Excess moisture in the soil is just as undesirable as lack of moisture.

Air humidity

Dry air does not hurt the plant too much, but it is better to either spray it, increasing the humidity, or use an indoor humidifier.

Temperature

The optimum air temperature for plant development is + 16… + 25 ° C. At temperatures below + 12 ° C, the culture will begin to rot, it may die. At air temperatures above + 25 ° C, the plant may lose leaf turgor.

Possible problems

These difficulties can be solved by adjusting watering and lighting. It is also necessary to pinch the shoots in a timely manner.


Conclusion

Rhododendron Rasputin is an evergreen unpretentious shrub that can safely withstand fairly low temperatures. This quality allows you to easily grow it on the territory of most of the country, without fear that the plant will freeze in winter. Rhododendron care is simple and includes basic procedures that even a beginner in horticulture can handle.

For more information on the features of growing rhododendron, see here:


Watch the video: Dieffenbachia propagation status update. Dumbcane propagation update. Pearl Lifestyle TV


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