Agave (Agave) is a succulent plant from the Agave family. The flower is found both in the American continent and in the Mediterranean and India.

Numerous agave species vary in size. There are miniature varieties up to 30 cm in height and two-meter giants. Agave has an average growth rate, but it can bloom only in natural conditions. Moreover, it belongs to the number of unpretentious perennials and therefore is very often found in home floriculture.

As a succulent, agave has fleshy leaves collected in a rosette. At the same time, thorns are located at the edges or at the top of the leaf. The stem of the plant is almost invisible in most cases.

Description of agave

Agave belongs to perennial, stemless, rosette plants, and is considered the closest relative of aloe, cacti and haworthia.

The very name agauos is given in honor of the daughter of the mythical Greek king, which in translation means - glorious, noble, magnificent, worthy of surprise. The people dubbed the plant an agave, thinking that flowering occurs once every 100 years. There are some varieties of agave that really bloom so rarely, but there are also those that give flowers for the fifteenth year of life in natural conditions, at home this period is doubled.

Blooming agave is an amazing sight. The flower of some species rises to the sky almost ten meters in height and resembles a yellow panicle. It is a pity that after flowering, the agave dies. Some species, instead of flowers, give offspring with roots on the inflorescence, which can then take root on their own.

The plant is used for landscaping premises, winter gardens, as well as decorating parks, flower beds.

Features of agave

Agave is not only a beautiful but also a useful home flower. It is capable of releasing phytoncides, disinfecting the air and removing part of the harmful microflora from it. The ability of this plant to purify the home atmosphere is so great that the air in the apartment becomes almost as clean as in the forest. At the same time, planting agave is also able to scare off harmful insects.

Parts of the plant are also used for production. Dense fibers are obtained from the leaves, suitable for making ropes and nets. The waste is used to make tissue paper. The aerial parts of the agave are considered edible. So from the juice of the plant, syrup, vinegar, as well as some alcoholic beverages, including tequila, are obtained.

Brief rules for growing agave

To grow agave at home, you need to know the basic requirements of this plant. The table shows brief rules for caring for agave at home.

Lighting levelDirect and very bright sunlight is required. The flower feels great on the southern windows.
Content temperatureThe temperature in summer should not fall below +16 degrees, while the flower tolerates the heat calmly. In winter, the optimal interval will be from +10 to +17 degrees.
Watering modeThe plant is very drought-resistant, in summer it is watered regularly, but not abundantly, and in winter - once in a long period.
Air humidityThe humidity level should be lowered.
The soilUsually, heavy, but moisture-permeable, purchased soil is used for planting agave. You can add some sand to it. The optimum acidity should be about 7. You can make the soil mixture yourself, for example, by mixing 3 parts of sand (perlite) with 2 parts of humus and garden soil. Lime, shells or bone meal are added to the resulting mixture. Only pots with drainage holes are suitable for planting.
Top dressingSoluble fertilizers are preferred. To maintain the health of the plant, you need to carry out at least two dressings: in the middle of spring and summer.
TransferA transplant is necessary depending on the growth rate of the agave. Slow-growing ones move when they reach one year of age, fast-growing ones - every few months. A new pot can be 3-4 cm larger than the previous one. In the future, transplants are carried out every 2 or 3 years.
PruningNo pruning needed.
BloomAt home, agave practically does not bloom.
Dormant periodThe plant rests in autumn and winter.
ReproductionAgave propagates by offspring or seeds. The first method is considered the most common. The offspring are planted in wet sand and put in the shade, periodically spraying. Plants obtained from seeds develop very slowly, but some species can only reproduce in this way.
Features of theLow-growing agave species can be grown hydroponically. Variegated forms grow especially slowly.
PestsSpider mite, scale insect.
DiseasesMajor plant diseases due to care errors.

Agave care at home

Despite the general unpretentiousness, the beauty of agave leaves largely depends on the observance of the conditions of care necessary for it.

Planting (sowing)

Not all flower varieties are suitable for indoor cultivation. Usually the smallest ones are preferred. Most often, three varieties of agave can be found in apartments:

  • Small-flowered (rosette up to 25 cm);
  • Filamentous (leaves up to 30 cm long);
  • Queen Victoria (rosette up to 40 cm).

If agave is grown from seeds, it is recommended to start sowing them in the spring. The optimal period is February or March. The seeds are buried by 0.5-1 cm, the container with them is covered with glass and kept in a warm place, periodically ventilated. At a temperature of about +23 degrees, the first shoots may appear within a week. In a couple of months, a rosette can already form in the sprout, and the size of the stem under the ground will reach 1.5 cm. Until the plants are six months old, they are kept in diffused light. Then they gradually begin to be exposed to the bright sun during the day and in the evening. One-year-old seedlings can be in the sun for a full day.

When placed in a pot, the root collar of the agave should be above the soil level. It is impossible to deepen it - the flower may begin to rot. At the same time, the earth around the plant is not compacted so that more oxygen flows to the roots. As a preventive measure, you can sprinkle the area around the neck with sand or surround with stones for additional fixation.

Illumination

For agave, very bright lighting is preferable, therefore it is advised to keep it on windows in the south or southeast direction. At the same time, small plants try to shade a little: direct rays can leave burns on the leaves. After keeping in the shade, any agave should be taught to light gradually.

So that in winter the flower does not reach for the light and does not stretch in length, losing the decorative effect of the leaves, it is placed in the most illuminated place or artificial lighting is used.

Temperature

In the summer, the flower is recommended to be kept at a temperature of 20 to 29 degrees. In warm weather, the plant can be transferred to the air or even planted in the front garden. The heat is not terrible for the flower, but if there is no way to transfer it to the street, it is recommended to ventilate the room with the agave more often.

In winter, agave rests and can stay cool. At this time, the plant is best kept at a temperature of about +10 degrees, some species grow well in slightly cooler rooms and can even tolerate slight frosts.

Watering mode

In spring and summer, homemade agave is watered regularly, but not very abundantly. For a growing specimen, 2-3 times a week will be enough. In winter, especially on cool days, watering is reduced to a minimum. When moistening the soil in a pot, you need to try so that drops do not fall on the leaves - stagnating there, water can lead to the development of diseases.

You can water the flower only with warm and well-settled water. After each watering, it is necessary to wait for a slight drying out of the soil.

Air humidity

Indoor agave calmly tolerates dry air (about 40%) and does not need special spraying. If the plant is grown outdoors, it should be placed in an area protected from heavy rainfall.

Household agave leaves can be periodically cleaned of dust, which slows down the process of photosynthesis.

Pot selection

Agave is easiest to grow in ordinary pots, whose diameter is approximately equal to their height. For certain types, wide and low containers are suitable. The root system of a flower grows most actively in the first years of its life, therefore, for young plants, pots will have to be selected "with a margin". An adult agave almost does not change the size of the root system; in the case of transplantation, a pot of the same capacity can be used for it.

The soil

Agave is undemanding to the soil, in its natural environment it grows on sandy and rocky ground. For its cultivation, a universal soil for cacti, palms or yucca is suitable. In the case of self-preparation, you can take 3 parts of sod-clay soil and part of coarse sand and lime. Charcoal or bone meal is sometimes added to the resulting mixture. In this case, the soil will become more fertile and additionally disinfected.

It is imperative to use drainage, its layer should be at least 2-3 cm. Sometimes brick chips are added to the upper part of the finished soil mixture in order to improve the quality of the substrate.

Top dressing

You can feed indoor agave only during its growth. Fertilizers can be applied up to 2 times a month. At the same time, it is important to select compositions without an excess of nitrogen: its excess will have a bad effect on the health of the plant, the foliage may grow too much and the flower will get sick. You can use specialized formulations for succulents or cacti. In winter, the plant is not fed.

Transfer

Agave is transplanted as its root system grows, if the plant has ceased to fit in the old pot. Usually this procedure is performed every 2 or 3 years. For small specimens under 4 years old, this will have to be done more often, moving them to a larger pot once a year. Plants obtained from seeds are first placed in pots with a diameter of up to 6 cm, after a year they are moved to 8 cm.

It is best to transplant in the spring. After completing the procedure, the flower should spend some time in partial shade.

We transplant Agave correctly!

Pruning

Agave does not need pruning.

Bloom

At home, it is very rare to admire the flowers of agave. During this period, the plant forms panicle inflorescences with a large number of small funnel-shaped flowers. They are colored yellow or reddish. Due to their gradual opening, the flowering period can last for several months.

In its natural environment, agave blooms no earlier than in the 10th or even 15th year. In indoor conditions, only specimens at least 20 years old can bloom. At the same time, the flowering agave forms fruits - boxes with dark seeds folded in bunches, and then dies, leaving behind many basal processes.

Dormant period

The plant rests in autumn and winter. At this time, it can be kept in a cool room, where the temperature is low above zero. During this period, the agave need not be watered. The exception is when the room is too warm and the soil in the pot dries out very quickly.

Agave breeding methods

Agave can be propagated in three ways: by offspring, cuttings and seeds.

With the help of the offspring

The plant can form offspring at the base of the trunk. For reproduction, they are separated with a sharp instrument and the cut site is dried. The place of separation should be treated with charcoal powder.

Prepared offspring are planted in a container with wet sand or other light soil. Such landings do not need shelter. After a couple of days, the seedlings can be watered a little. Until the offspring have taken root, this process is rarely carried out and they act very carefully, trying not to wash out the soil.

Cuttings

Usually it is done during plant transplantation. Cuttings are cut from the rhizome, trying to each have at least one bud. They are dried for several hours, and then additionally sprinkled with charcoal. Delenki are placed in a sand pot. Periodically, they need to be watered with lukewarm, settled water. In the first year of life, up to 6 leaves are formed on such a seedling, by the third year their number increases to 12.

In nature, agaves tend to propagate by seed. This process is considered the longest, but some species (for example, the Queen Victoria agave) can only reproduce in this way.

Pests and diseases

Agave can be affected by pests or sore. The causes of problems with a plant can usually be judged by its appearance.

  • Yellowing of leaves may be due to a lack of micronutrients, as well as low lighting, little watering, or too hot weather, especially at night.
  • If a foliage turns yellow at the edges, the reason may be overdrying of the soil or an excess of calcium.
  • Complete yellowing of the aboveground part plants may indicate both a number of problems (overdrying or overflow, excessively dense and unsuitable soil for the plant), and preparation for the winter dormant period.
  • Withering leaves or dropping them abruptly - lack of moisture or incorrect temperature of the content, especially in winter.
  • If the agave is covered with cobwebs, the spider mite may be the culprit. In addition to it, the plant can be harmed by scabies. You can get rid of small lesions with the help of folk remedies, wiping the leaves of the flower with soap or alcohol solution for several days. It is better to treat heavily affected areas with an insecticide.

The main types of room agave with a photo

American agave (Agave americana)

A non-blooming species, in natural conditions capable of reaching three meters in height. Ornamental varieties suitable for indoor cultivation are more compact. The species is notable for its large striped foliage with jagged edges.

Popular varieties:

  • Mediopicta with light yellow stripes along the leaf;
  • Mediopicta Alba - with a white stripe.

Queen Victoria's Agave (Agave victoriae-reginae)

Creates a small spherical rosette of dense rigid leaves up to 12 cm long. On the upper side, the green foliage is covered with bright white stains. There is a thorn at the top of each leaf. Young plants of this species should be protected from direct sun. At the same time, adults grow up calmly in bright light, and in winter they are able to endure frosts down to -7 degrees.

Agave attenuata

A large perennial with a stem up to 1.5 m in size. The leaves are thin, reaching 70 cm in length and painted gray-green. The edges of the leaf blades are smooth, there are no spines on them. During the flowering period, a large peduncle with small flowers of a light yellow color is formed on the plant.

Agave filifera (Agave filifera)

A common species, notable for the presence of hairs on the edge of the leaves. They form a tight ball-shaped rosette. Each leaf has an oblong shape and is pointed upwards. The length of the leaves reaches 20 cm. The species can form numerous offspring with their own roots, which are convenient to use for reproduction. In winter, the plant can be kept at temperatures from +4 degrees.

Drunkard agave (Agave potatorum)

A small plant with spatulate foliage. On the edges of the leaf blades, denticles and spines are located, which have a different color (usually red). It has a slow growth rate.


Agave - gardening

Agave family. Home from South America to the southern states of the United States. Very beautiful ornamental plants, but most of the species, due to their large size, are suitable for decorating only flower beds and flower gardens. In indoor conditions, dwarf forms or only young plants are grown. There are more than 50 species in the agave culture. The most common types:

American agave Agave americana - Large gray-green or bluish-gray belt-like leaves, in favorable conditions often reaching a length of 1-1.2 m, with sharp thorns, in our Caucasus it reaches 2-3 m in diameter.Along the edges of the leaf, straight or strong brown teeth slightly curved. The upper side of the leaf is flat, the lower side is convex. The inflorescence is a huge apical panicle, in large specimens 10 m or more in height, bearing more than 10 thousand flowers. Flowers are yellowish, up to 7 cm in diameter. It is believed to bloom once every hundred years. In fact, it blooms once in a lifetime, at about the age of 15, the peduncle bears numerous flowers in a panicle or brush, then after flowering, the plant gradually dies, forming offspring used for reproduction. The forms of this species differ mainly in the color of the leaves: A. marginata - leaves with bright yellow edges A.mediopicta - leaves with a longitudinal central wide yellow stripe. Due to their size and sharp thorns, they are of little use for a small room.

Usually Agave "Queen Victoria" Agave victoriae-reginae is recommended for cultivation. It has a rosette that is much smaller than that of the previous species, more or less regular spherical in shape. Leaves are very stiff, narrowly triangular or lanceolate, 10-20 cm long, 3-6 cm wide, with a short brown hard tip at the apex. There are thin white stripes along the edges of the sheet, which are relatively easy to peel off with white fibers.

Temperature: Agaves thrive in winter at temperatures that only winter coats can handle, 4-10 ° C. During the rest of the year, temperatures are normal.

Lighting: Lighting should be bright, no shading needed. The sill of the south window is best suited. In summer, it is advisable to keep the agaves in the sun outdoors. In winter, when there is little light, agaves stretch out and lose their attractiveness if they don't have enough light. Therefore, the brightest place is especially needed in winter.

Watering: In summer, plants are watered moderately but regularly. In general, in winter, watering depends on the temperature of the content - if the plant is kept in cool conditions - up to 10 ° C, then watering is rare - once a week so that the soil does not dry out completely. If it is not possible to keep the agave in cool conditions in winter, and it is kept at temperatures closer to room temperature and above, then watering is more frequent - 2-3 times a week. So, the soil should dry out in winter, but not dry out completely.

Fertilizers: Every year from May to August, every three to four weeks, they are fed with fertilizer for cacti or succulents.

Transfer: Young agaves are transplanted annually, adults every 2-3 years, which gives lush plants over the years. Soil - 3 parts of clay-sod, 1 part of leaf and 1 part of coarse river sand. Drainage is required.

Reproduction: seeds, cuttings and layering.

Film greenhouse
If you are just starting your gardening activity, then choose a film greenhouse. A film greenhouse is a simplified version of a greenhouse. As a rule, it consists of several prefabricated arcs and longitudinal prefabricated elements, which are attached to each other, and a film is stretched over them from above. In such greenhouses, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, vegetable and flower seedlings, greens are grown. Remember that the most important thing in a greenhouse is the quality of the film, the prevailing indicator when choosing which is its density, which is calculated in microns (microns). Than.

Thyme
In official medicine, thyme is used in the manufacture of powders, pastes, medical soap, syrup, extract, medicinal tea, cough tablets, tinctures to calm nerves, etc. Thyme is a good stimulator of capillary circulation, tones up the nervous system, increases blood pressure, therefore it should not be taken in case of hypertension. This is a perennial evergreen with a strong pleasant aroma and a bitter-spicy, slightly pungent taste in small quantities, perfectly complements vegetable, meat and fish dishes, and various salads.

Dogwood
For a long time, our ancestors, who called the dogwood only the almighty doctor, used them to treat all kinds of ailments. This is not surprising, because the fruits contain a lot of glucose, fructose, organic acids (especially malic, nicotinic), tannins, nitrogenous and coloring substances, essential oil, phytoncides, vitamins C and P. Berries are effective for anemia, inflammatory diseases of the liver and kidneys. They are advised to be included in the diet for skin diseases, eczema, to restore metabolism, and also as a means of preventing the development of sclero.

Celery is a unique medicinal plant
Europeans began to eat celery as a vegetable only in the XV-XVI centuries. He came to Russia during the reign of Catherine II, but the nobles for a long time bred him for purely decorative purposes. It was only in the 18th century that the rhizomes of the plant were found to be the most fragrant and delicate of all white roots. Since that time, celery has occupied a special place among root crops and is valued for its high content of vitamins, mineral salts and a specific pleasant smell. Nowadays it is known for certain that it is also a unique medicinal plant in which it contains.

Asters in the autumn garden
Oh, how nice it is to walk in your own garden, watch the wilting of nature and breathe in the crystal clear autumn air! And if primroses and autumn species of crocuses, colchicums and crocuses, chrysanthemums and they, beautiful asters, coexist on the flower beds ... In Latin, the name of the flower sounds like a "star". As the myriad of bright stars in the autumn vault of the sky, so the flowers in the garden shine. There are more than half a thousand different species in the Aster family. However, something else will be more interesting for you: almost all of them easily live on a cool island.

Insect garden pests
Some insects reproduce without fertilization (parthenogenesis). In aphids, bisexual and parthenogenetic reproduction alternate. In the process of development, insects undergo a series of transformations, that is, they undergo metamorphosis. Distinguish between incomplete and complete transformation. Incomplete transformation is characterized by the passage of three stages: egg, larva and adult. At the same time, the larvae are similar in appearance and lifestyle to adults (aphids, suckers). With complete transformation, insects go through four stages during their life: eggs, larvae, pupae and adult wasps.

The healing properties of crowberry
This wonderful plant has many different names; the people call it shiksha, and nigella, and crow, and a brush or dwarf. This berry was named for its wateriness and, apparently, for a strong diuretic effect, and crowberry - for the color of the fruit, black, like a raven's wing. Outwardly, this evergreen creeping shrub with a height of 20 to 50 cm, thanks to its small narrow leaves of bright green color, looks very attractive. Crowberry blooms with small inconspicuous pinkish or dark red flowers. But her globular massive berries are difficult.

Motoblocks and cultivators
In addition to other garden troubles, gardeners often have to tinker with the ground (dig up, loosen, huddle, etc.) or transport a variety of goods (for example, fertilizers, building materials, containers with water). A large farm uses its own technique for each type of work, "specializing" in something specific. For a private trader with his six hundred square meters, this approach is too wasteful, he needs one universal and inexpensive car - a jack of all trades. These requirements are met by walk-behind tractors or cultivators. Plowing is traditional.

Garden strawberries
Traditionally, it is customary to plant strawberries in autumn, in September. Seedlings are taken from the May whiskers, and the next summer may be harvesting. But the planting of seedlings in the spring is more successful if the seedlings were available in the fall or overwintered well on the plantations. This spring, indeed, countless seedlings are sold, strawberries, in spite of the harsh winter, wintered beautifully. New promising strawberry varieties are currently on sale: Pandora, Fireworks, Gigantella Maxim and others.

Juniper tree - a symbol of eternal life
This small evergreen coniferous tree (up to 10-15 m) or shrub (up to 3 m) belonging to the cypress family, bears fruit with dark blue cones, which are medicinal raw materials. They are harvested in October-November, during the period of full maturity, when they turn black and blue and dried in a well-ventilated room at a temperature not higher than 30 degrees. It is better not to use an oven and dryer for this purpose, since overheating the quality of raw materials greatly deteriorates. In a closed wooden container, berries are stored for three years without losing their capacity.

Cellular polycarbonate greenhouses do not require special maintenance in winter
A greenhouse with a honeycomb polycarbonate cover can be left in place for the winter. Polycarbonate has excellent resistance to low temperatures, snow and strong winds. A highly concentrated protective layer is applied to the surface of the sheets, which makes it possible to guarantee a service life of at least 10 years, and if used correctly, this coating will last even longer. Sometimes gardeners are offered second-rate cheap polycarbonate without a protective UV layer; the service life of such a coating does not exceed 2-3 years. The absence of a protective UV layer accelerates the destruction of polycarbonate over.

Indoor plants with medicinal properties
The air in our city apartments sometimes consists of many harmful substances emitted by synthetic surfaces and furniture, televisions, computers and household appliances. All these bad factors can be neutralized with indoor plants. There are three main groups of plants that can be grown for prophylactic and medicinal purposes at home. The first group includes plants whose phytoncides have a pronounced antimicrobial activity. These include citrus fruits, rosemary, fragrant pelargonium, Coleus Bloom, aloe.


INTENSIVE CULTIVATION TECHNOLOGIES S.-KH. CULTURE

Scientific and technological progress is the improvement of technology, technology, production methods, the development of productive forces based on the application of scientific and technical achievements. In our country, scientific and technological progress serves as the basis for the intensification of social production, including increasing the efficiency of agriculture and the agro-industrial complex as a whole. The consistent intensification of production presupposes a radical restructuring of all its aspects - technology, technology, economic mechanism, workers themselves, the level of their qualifications and economic psychology. In the cultivation of agricultural crops in our country, intensive technologies have become widespread.

Intensive technology (from Latin intensio - voltage, gain). In crop production, this term means the use of more and more efficient means of production (intensive varieties and hybrids, effective pesticides, growth regulators and fertilizers, biological and agrotechnical methods of plant protection, modern technology, etc.) and technological processes, the use of advanced methods of labor organization, scientific achievements. -technical progress.

Intensive technology in agriculture is a modern production technology that provides an increase in output by increasing yields through a more complete realization of the biological potential of crops on the basis of the widespread use of modern intensification factors, ensuring the preservation of the environment.

Intensive technology is the main direction of scientific and technological progress in agricultural production. It allows you to better manage the growth and development of crops to achieve maximum productivity while increasing labor productivity.

When implementing an intensive technology, the biological characteristics of each crop are taken into account, the bioclimatic potential and, therefore, the level of use of the potential soil fertility in specific conditions are analyzed in detail. An important feature of intensive technology in crop production is a deep scientific study of methods for managing the processes of crop formation throughout the life of plants.

The successful application of intensive technology requires a high level of qualifications of the farmer, the ability to quickly make the only correct decision on which the fate of the crop depends. Intensive technology requires a reliable material and technical base and an appropriate level of organization of production (high technological discipline).

The difference between intensive technology and conventional (traditional) technology is that intensive technology takes into account the biological characteristics and needs of culture to a greater extent, provides for their complete satisfaction through the integrated use of recommendations from science, technology, and advanced experience at all stages of production. For the full implementation of intensive technology, a high culture of farming is needed, this technology is effective when all organizational and technological operations are performed in a timely manner and with high quality, on the basis of technological maps, and labor remuneration is carried out on the basis of cost accounting and lease relations.

The concept of technology in crop production means a set of techniques in the cultivation of agricultural crops, from soil cultivation and seed preparation to harvesting and processing of the resulting products. Technology, in contrast to agricultural technology, includes material and technical means and economic indicators reflected in technological maps.


TECHNOLOGIES FOR GROWING SEASONAL FLOWERING GROUND CROPS FOR CUTTING

This group includes four main decorative cultures: rose, remontant carnation, Indian dendrantema (chrysanthemum), zantedeshia (calla).

Rose flower. In protected ground, rose varieties of three garden groups are grown: hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora. For landing use grafted and self-rooted seedlings. Grafted seedlings, as a rule, are biennial, with 2-3 lateral branches, a developed root system, obtained by budding in the open field. Own-rooted seedlings are usually annual, grown from rooted cuttings.

In soil greenhouses, roses are grown in one place for 6-8 years. The substrate for growing roses must meet the following requirements: be homogeneous and loose, have an acidity of pH = 5.6-6.5, the salt content should not exceed 0.3-0.5%. Organic fertilizers (3-5 kg ​​/ m 2) are applied to the soil a month before planting.

Planting schemes are different, usually 10 plants are planted per 1 m 2. Planting dates: grafted plants - from autumn to late spring, own-rooted - in March-April. The aerial part usually has 2-4 strong shoots. 2-4 buds are left on the shoots. The height of the seedling after pruning should not exceed 15-20 cm. When planting grafted seedlings, the grafting site is placed at soil level. After planting, the plants are watered abundantly.

When planting in autumn, during the first 5-6 weeks, a relatively low air temperature (5-6 ° C) and a low substrate humidity are maintained in the greenhouse. By the time the leaves unfurl, the temperature rises to 10-13 ° C, by the beginning of budding - up to 18-20 ° C. When planting in late winter - early spring, set the temperature to 10-12 ° C, gradually increasing it to 18-20 ° C by the beginning of flowering.

Watering carried out to moisten the soil to a depth of 30-40 cm. The optimum soil moisture is 50-75% PV (full moisture capacity). The soil is mulched with humus, compost or peat.

Top dressing. Manure, phosphorus and potash mineral fertilizers are applied annually after a dormant period in the aisles of 10-20 kg / m 2. Top dressing with liquid mineral fertilizers is carried out 2-3 times a month. The substrate for growing roses should contain: nitrogen - 150-200 mg / l phosphorus - 600-800 mg / l potassium - 400-600 mg / l.With optimal nutrition, the rose leaves should contain nitrogen 2.8-3.6% phosphorus - 0.65-0.8% potassium - 2.5-3%.

Shaping and trimming. According to the degree of shortening of shoots, three types of pruning are distinguished: 1) strong (leave 2-3 buds on the shoot) medium (3-5 buds) and weak (5-7 buds). Weak pruning is carried out to obtain early and abundant flowering, strong - once every 2-3 years. In the first year after planting, the skeleton of a bush is formed from 2-3 powerful shoots.

The grafted roses after pre-planting pruning are pinched over the third or fourth leaf. Growing shoots of the second order

pinch over the fifth sheet. After pinching, the newly formed shoots are used for cutting. The first cut is done over the third sheet, the second and third over the second sheet.

Own-rooted roses are formed in the same way as grafted ones, but the first cut is carried out much later (usually in August-September) due to their slower growth.

During cultivation, remove all weak shoots, root shoots of the stock. Every 2-3 years during the dormant period, a strong pruning is carried out, leaving no more than four skeletal branches on the bush. Skeletal branches are shortened, leaving 2-3 leaves.

Flowering regulation. To get a cut from the end of January to October, the following activities are carried out. From mid-November, the temperature is gradually reduced to 2-5 ° C and watering is reduced. Roses go into a dormant state that lasts 4-6 weeks. In late December - early January, a strong pruning is carried out and fertilizers are applied. After that, the temperature is gradually raised, first to 10-12 ° C, then to 18-20 ° C.

To obtain an early cut (in January), the temperature begins to decrease from the beginning of November, after the passage of dormancy (from the beginning of December), the temperature is sharply increased, illuminated and the first cut is obtained in January.

To obtain a cut in autumn (late September - October), in summer (from early July to mid-August), cut is not carried out, the roses are allowed to finish flowering naturally (summer blooming). Then the faded shoots are shortened by a third or a quarter of the length. Newly emerging shoots provide cutting until December at a temperature of about 15 ° C.

Pinching the shoots over the second or third leaf allows you to shift the flowering time by 35-40 days. For example, pinching in August increases the cut yield in September-October.

Year-round cutting assumes compliance with the following regimes: 1) additional illumination with an intensity of 3000-5000 lux and a day length of 14 hours from October to March 2) air temperature 20-22 ° C, substrate temperature 12-13 ° C at a depth of 35 cm 3) regular top dressing 4) the blooming of the bushes in the summer 5) the formation is carried out in October 6) in the third year of cultivation in the fall, reduce the temperature and watering, carry out a strong rejuvenating pruning.

For a year from each plant, you can get 3-4 cuts, which on average is 105-170 pieces. peduncles from 1 m 2.

Cutting and storage of cut products. Cutting is carried out in the phase of a colored bud. Small-double varieties are cut in the phase of a dense bud with sepals bent down. Dense double varieties are cut at the beginning of bud opening. In the summer, the cut is carried out in the morning, zzo

in winter - in the afternoon. The cut is stored at a temperature of 1.5-5 ° C and high humidity for 10-12 days.

Hydroponic culture. Hydroponic plants are used for rooting cuttings and getting cuttings. Rooting of cuttings is usually carried out on a mixture of peat and perlite (1: 3) or peat and sand (1: 1). Optimal planting dates: from January to June. Stem cuttings are cut with 2-3 buds, the lower sections are treated with growth powder, planted in the substrate to a depth of 1-1.2 cm according to the scheme 5 x 6-6 x 8 cm. Substrate temperature 22-24 ° C, humidity 50-60% nvp, relative air humidity 90%.

Own-rooted or grafted plants 1–3 years old are cleared of the ground, vigorously pruned, planted in hydroponic installations, on average 12 plants per 1 m 2. First, the nutrient solution is served 1-2 times a week, then daily, in hot weather up to 3 times a day. The optimum concentration of the nutrient solution is 0.15-0.2%. The solution should contain: nitrogen 150-200 mg / l phosphorus 80-120 potassium 220-300 magnesium 30-35 mg / l. The nutrient solution is used for 2-3 months. In autumn, the supply of the nutrient solution is gradually reduced, in November-December, plants are given rest: for grafted varieties at a temperature of 2-4 ° C, for self-rooted varieties at 6-8 ° C. Cutting productivity in hydroponic plants is 10-15% higher than in soil culture.

Repaired carnation. Carnation varieties of the Sim group (large-flowered) are widely used for cutting in greenhouses. Greenhouse culture includes two stages: growing planting material (rooted cuttings) and growing for cutting ( (l fig. 282). Cultivation of planting material includes: 1) growing mother plants and 2) rooting cuttings. Growing for cutting: 1) planting rooted cuttings 2) caring for rooted cuttings: watering, feeding, garter and shaping of plants, regulating the flowering time 3) cutting and storing cut products.

Growing mother plants. Rack greenhouses are used for their cultivation. Selected well-developed cuttings with shortened internodes and a powerful root system. Cuttings are planted throughout the year. Planting density of cuttings: 33-44 pieces / m 2. Substrate: high-moor peat, enriched with mineral fertilizers. Cuttings are planted shallow. The optimum temperature for rooting is 18 ° C. When planting in autumn or winter, watering with warm water (25 ° C) and subsoil heating are required. Within 7-10 days, the cuttings take root. At the beginning of growth, rooted cuttings are pinched over the fourth or fifth node. Temperature conditions for growing mother plants: winter 12-14 ° C, spring 15-20, summer 18-20, autumn 13-15 ° C. Nighttime temperatures are 2-3 ° C lower than daytime. Relative air humidity 60-70%. Day length 10-12 hours, illumination intensity 4800-6000 lux.

Mother plants are systematically (every 10-14 days) fed with solutions of nitrogen-potassium fertilizers. The substrate should contain: nitrogen 150 mg / l phosphorus 600 mg / l potassium 400 mg / l.

The mother plants are used for one year.

Rooting cuttings. The first cuttings are harvested 2 months after the queen cells are pinched, and their cutting is continued for 6-7 months, getting 15-25 cuttings from one mother plant per year. A standard cutting should have 2 well-developed internodes, 2-3 pairs of leaves, 5-6 pairs of young developing leaves at the top of the stem (sultan) and a rounded stem. Cuttings are broken by hand from the stems with 4-5 internodes, while leaving 2-3 internodes at the base. The greater the mass of the cutting, the higher its quality. The lower leaves on the handle are not removed, since they root better with leaves. In summer, cuttings are harvested daily, in winter once every 2 weeks. The stems of the first to third branching orders are used. Cuttings from stems of the first order are used for growing queen cells, from the second or third orders - for cutting.

Cut cuttings are treated with growth stimulants and rooted in shelving greenhouses in a substrate of various composition: perlite perlite + high-moor peat (2: 1) vermiculite + sand (2: 1) with a layer of 5-6 cm, with subsoil heating. The planting density of cuttings is 400-600 pcs / m2, the planting depth is 1 cm. In the first 10 days after planting, the substrate temperature is 19-20 ° C, then 17-18 ° C, the air temperature is 3-5 ° C lower. Air humidity 70-90%. With the appearance of roots, air humidity is reduced to 60%. In the summer, the cuttings are shaded. From September to April, after the beginning of root formation, additional illumination is used (day length 12 hours). Cuttings take root in 21-30 days, rooting rate is about 90%.

Rooted cuttings have three well-formed internodes, a compact root system 2-7 cm long. Before planting, they are stored for no more than 2 weeks, at a temperature of 1-3 ° C and an air humidity of 70%, in plastic bags.

Planting rooted cuttings. Rooted cuttings are planted on ridges in ground greenhouses. You can also grow on a small layer of substrate (18-20 cm), placed on a film. Substrates: poorly decomposed peat, a mixture of turf and peat (1: 1), a mixture of turf, peat, sand and humus (1: 2: 1: 1), etc.

With an annual culture of carnations, cuttings are planted at 60-100 pcs / m 2, each plant produces 4-8 peduncles per year. In a biennial culture, 36-50 pcs / m 2 are planted, each plant produces 9-15 peduncles per year. When planting from January to March, a more rare planting is carried out, from July to December - a denser one. When planting, the root collar is not buried in the substrate. Within 2 weeks after planting, the air temperature is about 18 ° C in summer, 12-14 ° C in winter.

Watering. Carnation is a moisture-loving plant, consuming 0.8-1 m 3 of water per year. 2 days before planting, the substrate is watered with warm water (25 ° C), after planting the plants are sprayed 2-5 times a day for a week. The optimum moisture content of the substrate is 65-70% WFP. In summer, plants are watered at least once every 1-2 weeks, depending on the weather; in the autumn-winter period, watering is reduced to once a month.

Top dressing. Before planting, phosphorus fertilizers are applied to the substrate based on the entire growing season, nitrogen and potassium fertilizers - for the first 1.5-2 months. If there is a lack of lighting in winter, the substrate must have a sufficient potassium content. During the period of intensive growth, there is a great need for calcium, especially on peat substrates.

Top dressing is carried out every 10-15 days, from mid-February to October, with solutions of mineral fertilizers in low concentrations (0.1-0.15% on peat substrates).

Garter plants. The carnation should be tied to keep the stems upright. To do this, every 3-4 m, metal racks with a height of 1 m are installed, to which longitudinal rows of wire are attached after 15 cm. The transverse rows are pulled from twine or nylon thread according to the planting pattern. Young stems are filled in the formed cells 2 times a month. The first time - when their height reaches 10-13 cm, later - as the plants grow.

Formation of plants. To do this, use single, one-and-a-half and double pinching for the growth of lateral stems. A single pinching is carried out 2-4 weeks after planting the cuttings over the fourth or fifth node. It is used when planting cuttings in December-February.

One and a half pinching provides that after a single pinching of the main stem, two upper lateral stems are additionally pinched, the lower stems are not pinched. This method is used when planting cuttings in March-May, which allows you to shift the flowering time from summer to autumn - September-October and increase the flowering intensity.

Double pinching consists in pinching all growing lateral stems after a single pinching, which delays flowering for 6-8 months. This method is used when planting cuttings in February-April.

The optimal number of flowering stems is 170-250 pcs / m 2. This number of stems is provided by the presence of 3-4 stems of the second order and 2 stems of the third and fourth orders. If necessary, the lateral buds are pinned (break out the small lateral buds that form on the flowering stems).

Flowering regulation. The following factors affect the timing and intensity of flowering: the timing of planting rooted cuttings, the method of pinching the plants, light and temperature conditions.

Plants planted in winter or spring begin to bloom 2 times faster than those planted in autumn. Since the carnation is a light-loving and long-day plant, it actively passes to flowering with a long (14-16 h) day. Therefore, in winter, additional luminescence is necessary. The optimum air temperature for growth and development is 16–20 ° C. The temperature of the substrate in the root layer should not be lower than 9 ° C, which is ensured by subsoil heating.

Cutting and storage of cut products. The peduncles are cut over the seventh to eighth node, while the peduncle should be 40-50 cm long and have 5-6 well-developed nodes. Cutting is carried out in the morning, only the opened buds are cut off. When cutting flower stalks with closed or semi-closed buds, they are grown in a nutrient solution with supplementary lighting at a temperature of 22-24 ° C.

Cut stalks are stored for 2-3 weeks at a temperature of 0.5-1.5 ° C in plastic bags packed in cardboard boxes. Before selling, the peduncles must be grown in a nutrient solution at a temperature of 25-30 ° C.

Hydroponic culture. Used for growing mother and cut plants. Expanded clay, gravel, etc. are used as a substrate. The nutrient solution should have a temperature of 20-22 ° C, the total concentration of salts should not exceed 0.2-0.25%. During the period of active vegetative growth, the composition of the solution is as follows: 170-190 mg / l nitrogen, 30-40 mg / l phosphorus, 210-220 mg / l potassium. During the flowering period, the concentration of the main nutrients is increased: 240-280 mg / l nitrogen, 35-40 mg / l phosphorus, 250-260 mg / l potassium. In winter, the concentration is reduced: 180 mg / l nitrogen, 35 mg / l phosphorus, 21 mg / l potassium. The composition of the solution is adjusted once a month. In hydroponic plants, carnations will bloom on

1-2 weeks earlier, this increases the quality of cut and productivity, and also increases the yield of cuttings from mother plants.

Dendrantema is Indian. Cutting varieties of dendranthema are divided into the following groups: 1) large-flowered - on the peduncle one large inflorescence with a diameter of 20-30 cm 2) bouquet - on the peduncle many inflorescences with a diameter of 10-20 cm 3) miniature - on the peduncle there are many small inflorescences with a diameter of not more than 4 cm. Dendranthema is a short day plant. With a short day (less than 14.5 hours), inflorescences are formed, with a long day, vegetative growth. The following groups are distinguished in terms of flowering time: 1) early - bloom from August to mid-October 2) mid-late - bloom in October-November 3) late - bloom in November-December ( Fig. 283).

Reproduction. The varieties are propagated by stem cuttings harvested from mother plants. In autumn, the aboveground part of mother plants is removed and placed (usually in pots) on racks in light greenhouses, at a temperature of 4-8 ° C, moderate watering, with supplementary lighting (day length 14-16 hours). A month before grafting, the temperature is raised to 10-12 ° C and watering is increased. On mother plants, stems of the first order begin to grow, they are shortened, they are not used for grafting. When at least six leaves are formed on the stems of the second and third orders, cuttings are cut from the tops of the stems. The shank must have

2-4 developed leaves, its length is 6-8 cm, leaf blades are not shortened.

To obtain multi-stem plants, cuttings are harvested in early spring, in March-April, for single-stem plants - in late spring - early summer, in May-June. First, the early ones are cut, then the middle ones, the last ones are the late varieties.

Before planting, the lower cut of the cutting is treated with growth stimulants (growth powder: 400 g of talc, 60 g of heteroauxin, 100 mg of vitamin B ^. Substrates for rooting: sand sand + peat sand + vermiculite sawdust + fertilizers. Cuttings are buried 1 - 1.5 cm in the substrate, do not shade and do not cover. Optimal conditions for rooting: 1) air and substrate temperature 14-16 ° C illumination 2000-3000 lux, from November to March supplementary lighting at night, air humidity 70-80%, substrate - 90 -95% RVP. When planting cuttings in January-March, they take root within

3—3.5 weeks, when planted in April-May - 2 weeks. Rooted cuttings are fed with nitrogen fertilizers. At the beginning of regrowth of new stems and a root length of 1-2 cm, cuttings are removed from the substrate.

After that, the rooted cuttings undergo thermotherapy for disinfection from viruses. To do this, cuttings are planted in a substrate in plastic containers (60 x 15 x 20 cm), which are placed in heat chambers for 4-12 weeks with supplementary lighting. During the first 6 days, the temperature is gradually increased to 25-37 ° C.Plants are sprayed with water daily. After thermotherapy, the cuttings are stored until planting for no more than one week at a temperature of 1-3 ° C, a relative humidity of 70% in an intensively ventilated room.

Chrysanthemum is grown in greenhouses in the following ways: 1) as a pot culture 2) for cutting with intermediate planting in open ground 3) for cutting in ground greenhouses.

Pot culture. Small-flowered varieties are usually used. Plants are planted in pots with a diameter of 9-15 cm, be sure to roll over 1-2 times during the growing season.

Ground culture with intermediate planting in open ground. Usually, varieties with a compact habit are used to grow outdoors without a garter. Rooted cuttings are planted in diving boxes or pots with a diameter of 9 cm.Then, in spring or early summer, after the end of the threat of frost, the cuttings are transplanted into open ground on ridges, according to the scheme 25 x 25 cm for single-stem varieties or 40 x 60 cm for multi-stem varieties. Before the onset of autumn frosts, the plants are dug up and planted in ground greenhouses or in pots for shelving greenhouses, tied up. The greenhouse maintains a temperature of 13-15 ° C and provides enhanced ventilation.

Ground culture in greenhouses. Small-stemmed large-flowered varieties are used. Rooted cuttings are planted in a greenhouse, in ridges according to the scheme 10 x 10-12 x 15 cm. A mesh is pulled over the plants in two tiers, at a height of 30 and 60 cm above the substrate surface. When growing early large-flowered varieties, the first cut is carried out in May-June, the second in September-October, while the cuttings are rooted in December-January. For controlled cultivation of chrysanthemums, greenhouses with automatic microclimate control, supplementary lighting and shading are required. At the first stage, varieties are selected and the date of cutting is scheduled. Then the rooting period of the cuttings is determined, for this, the number of weeks of a short day (the period from the beginning of budding to flowering) and the number of weeks of a long day (the period of vegetative growth) are summed up, then this amount is subtracted from the planned cutting date.

Substrate. Dendrantema prefers a loose, well-drained substrate with a high organic content. Types of substrates: a mixture of turf, humus soil and sand (4: 4: 1) a mixture of peat and zeolite (7: 3). During intensive plant growth, the substrate moisture content is maintained at a level of 65-70% CWP, during the budding period, the moisture content is reduced by 10-20%.

Top dressing. Before budding, a large amount of nitrogen and potassium is required, after budding, phosphorus. The optimal content of the main elements in the leaves: 3-4.5 mg / l - nitrogen 0.25-0.5 mg / l - phosphorus 2.5-5 mg / l - potassium. Lack of nitrogen causes the appearance of small yellow-green leaves, phosphorus - dwarfism, potassium - marginal calcium chlorosis - chlorosis of young leaves, the death of stems, boron buds - a change in the color of the baskets. With an excess of nitrogen, large dark green leaves develop, the cut withers quickly, with an excess of potassium, a magnesium deficiency occurs, which is the reason for the slowdown in growth.

Temperature conditions. During the period of vegetative growth and budding, the temperature is maintained at 16-17 ° C in winter, and 18-20 ° C in summer. In the phase of developed buds, the temperature is lowered to 10 ° C and maintained until cutting.

Formation of plants. The first pinching is carried out on transplanted rooted cuttings, when they begin to grow at the top of the stem. After pinching, 3-4 leaves are left on the stem. In the future, in small-flowered and multi-stemmed plants, all stems are left, in large-flowered plants - only one. In small-flowered varieties, the lateral stems are pinched 2-3 more times, while 7-8 leaves are left on each of them. After all the pinches, up to 20 or more stems are formed on the bush, on which inflorescences are formed. In large-flowered varieties, after the first pinching, another 1-3 pinches are carried out, as a result, one stem is formed, ending in one inflorescence.

Cutting and storage of cut products. The flower-bearing stems are cut in the evening, on the eve of implementation, with fully developed ligulate flowers, when the green color in the center of the baskets disappears. All lower leaves are removed from the stems, the lower part of the stems is split 10-12 cm in length and immersed in water for 10-12 hours. The inflorescences packed in boxes are transported at a temperature of 6-8 ° C. Inflorescences can be stored for a week at 4 ° C, buds - up to three weeks. Inflorescences of small-flowered varieties are stored for 10-30 days.

Hydroponic culture. On hydroponic substrates (sand, gravel), plants develop faster, form strong stems with dark green leaves and brightly colored inflorescences of large diameter. Cuttings take root in gravel in 10-12 days, while a powerful root system develops. Cuttings are planted in the substrate a little deeper (up to 3 cm) than in soil mixtures. When planting rooted cuttings, the root collar is buried into the substrate by 3-5 cm. Several tiers of the mesh are pulled. The first 3-5 days the plants are watered with clean water, then for 50 days - with a solution of half concentration, after which - with the usual solution. Analyze and control the composition of the nutrient mixtures two to three times a month. For a sandy substrate, the optimal concentration of the nutrient solution is 0.3-0.5%, for a gravel one - 0.1-0.2%.

Ethiopian zantedeshia, calla. The growing season for calla lilies begins in the fall. In November-March, the plants are actively growing and blooming.

Zantedesia is moisture-loving and shade-tolerant. In mid-March, flowering stops, the leaves die off and the plants go into a semi-dormant state, which lasts at least 4 weeks. Since the end of August, preparations for active growth have been carried out: cleaning plants (collecting dead leaves, removing shoots, diseased plants), pinching (separating resting children and thin lateral stems), loosening and filling the substrate, applying fertilizers ( Fig. 284).

Reproduction. Usually propagated by a resting baby, as well as by rhizome offspring, less often by seeds. When reproducing by a dormant baby, plants begin to bloom after a year, when propagated by root suckers, after 5-6 months. The selection of mother plants is carried out in December-January. A baby with a diameter of 0.5-1.6 cm is harvested when pinching. The substrate is raked away from the plants, the children are separated. Up to 50 babies are separated from one mother plant at the age of 3-4 years. Children are planted in September to a depth of 3-4 cm, in a substrate with a thickness of at least 10 cm, 300 - 360 pcs./m 2. Features of growing plants from children: 1) in the first summer, the plants are not given a rest period, watering and feeding are carried out 2) nitrogen and potassium fertilizers are applied after the deployment of the second leaf once a month in small doses (10-20 mg / l) 3) optimal temperature 14-18 ° C during the day, 10-15 ° C at night. A year later, in August - early September, young plants are dug up, sorted by the diameter of the rhizomes and planted in a greenhouse for cutting.

Substrate. Zantedesia is grown in soil greenhouses on a substrate layer 40-50 cm thick, less often in pots. Plants are grown for 6-7 years at 10 pcs./m 2. The substrate should be light and moisture-consuming, usually it contains humus, peat and sand (1: 1: 1), pH = 5-6. When planting children, the root collar is placed at the substrate level or slightly below. Standard produce is received one year after planting.

Top dressing. Zantedeshia consumes a lot of potassium. Zinc is the most important trace element. During the period of active growth, it is recommended to feed it once every 10 days. Until November, nitrogen-potash fertilizers are used, from mid-November to the end of January - phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, and then until the dormant period - again nitrogen-potassium fertilizers. With the transition to a state of rest, feeding is stopped, watering is reduced to 2-3 times a month. Top dressing is carried out in accordance with the results of agrochemical analysis of the substrate and leaf diagnostics. The optimum content of nutrients in the substrate: 80-120 mg / l - nitrogen 600-800 mg / l - phosphorus 600-800 mg / l - potassium. The optimum content of substances in the leaves: 3.5-4.5% - nitrogen 0.8-1.2% - phosphorus 4.5-6% - potassium.

Temperature conditions. The monthly temperature schedule during the period of active growth (from November to March) is as follows: 3 days - cold (during the day 8-10 ° С, at night 5-7 ° С) 17-20 days - with moderate temperatures (during the day 16-18 ° С, at night 12-15 ° C) 7-10 days - warm (during the day 20-25 ° C, at night 18-20 ° C).

Cutting and storage technology for cut products. Cutting is carried out in the half-release phase of the inflorescences, when the turning diameter is less than 80% of its length. The peduncle is cut carefully, as a new inflorescence develops at its base. Cut inflorescences are stored in water for 8-15 days.

Hydroponic culture. With gravel culture, it is grown on a small layer of substrate (up to 15 cm). Plants are planted in the substrate in June-July. The first 5-7 days they are watered with water, the next 10-14 days - with a solution of half concentration, then with a solution of full concentration. Plants bloom in October and bloom until June.

  • 1. What are the ways to regulate the flowering time of roses for cutting in greenhouses?
  • 2. What are the main stages of growing cut carnations?
  • 3. What are the main features of the formation of Indian dendrantema plants for cutting?
  • 4. What temperature regime is maintained when growing Zante-cheap Ethiopian for cut?


Botanical description

American agave stores water in fleshy leaves, like other succulents. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

American agave (lat. Agave americana, English American aloe) is a succulent belonging to the Agave family (lat. Agavaceae).

Agave is a long-liver; it lives in room conditions for one and a half to two decades. No wonder the middle name of agave is the agave (English Century Plant). The plant has basal succulent thick green or green-variegated, large, hard, linear-lanceolate, narrowed to the top, leaves. The edges of the leaves have sharp thorns, the top ends with a hard sharp thorn.

American agave is a leafy succulent, that is, it retains moisture in the tissues of its thick leaves. The flowers are greenish-yellow, inconspicuous, located in large numbers on a high peduncle.

Agave propagates by seeds and offspring that form at the base of the mother plant. Plant sizes can vary depending on growing conditions and the characteristics of a particular subspecies.


Chemical composition and calorie content of agave

Naturally, agave is an excellent source of iron, a mineral that carries oxygen from the lungs to other parts of the body. A hundred-gram portion of a raw plant contains 1.8 mg of iron, and the same amount of dried plant contains 3.65 mg. This represents 46% of the daily value of this mineral for men and 20% for women. All this testifies to the great benefits for the body.

Other beneficial properties are as follows. A serving of raw or cooked agave provides about 40% of an adult's daily calcium requirement, and dried agave provides nearly three-quarters of that. In addition, the plant is a good source of zinc, a mineral essential for wound healing.

The calorie content of the raw plant is 68 kcal per hundred grams. Agave syrup has a much higher nutritional value - 310 kcal per 100 g. It is a moderate source of vitamin C and several B vitamins.

The syrup is composed of 76% carbohydrates, 23% water, 0.4% fat and negligible amount of protein, so it can harm people with a tendency to obesity.


Agave is not for everyone

An amazing flower - agave, medicinal properties are so wide that it is time to attribute to it the title of a panacea. But here, too, there were some exceptions.

Cannot be used when all forms of hepatitis, gallbladder disease are diagnosed.

It is unacceptable to use by people prone to allergic diseases.

Agave video

Pregnant women and people with hormonal dysfunctions are also better off using agave in any form.

Contraindications may also be due to individual intolerance. Therefore, before treating with agave, it is better to consult a therapist. Although this is a folk remedy, but official medicine also does not exclude it.


Watch the video: Five Best Sugar Substitutes. Dr. Josh Axe


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