The most dangerous pests for raspberries are raspberry beetle, raspberry-strawberry weevil, raspberry stem gall midge, raspberry shoot gall midge or raspberry gnat, raspberry stem fly, aphid, raspberry mite, spider mite, leafhopper.
Raspberry plants are harmed by adult beetles and insect larvae. After overwintering in the soil near the bush at a depth of 10 cm, first light brown and then grayish brown beetles appear in late May - early June. At this time, they settle on weeds and early flowering berry bushes, and when buds appear, they switch to raspberries. Beetles gnaw holes in buds and eat away their contents. In young leaves, they gnaw tissues between the veins of the second order. The females then lay their testicles in a flower or at the base of the ovary. The insect larvae that appear after 10 days spend three days outside the fruit, and then bite into the berry, feed on the fruit, sometimes drupes. The berry usually contains one yellowish-white larva with dark brown spots on the back. The larvae pupate in the soil, turning into beetles.
Control measures: loosening the soil in autumn and spring in violation of the wintering place of beetles, mulching the soil under the bushes with a thick layer of loose mulch materials, destroying weeds on which the beetle feeds before moving to raspberries, shaking off and destroying beetles.
The main damage to plants is caused by females of a grayish-black beetle with a long trunk during oviposition. After overwintering under plant residues in raspberry plantings or nearby, the beetles appear in late April-early May, eat out small pits or holes on the petioles and leaf blades, and then, gnawing holes in the buds, they get to the anthers. The female lays one egg per bud, disguises it and gnaws at the peduncle. After a while, the bud falls off.
Control measures:the same as against the raspberry beetle.
The main harm is caused by the larvae, which, during the swelling of the buds and the advancement of the green cone, leave the wintering place and penetrate into the raspberry buds. The larvae eat up the contents of the bud, leaving only the covering scales, bite into the core of the shoot and pupate here. During flowering, adult dark brown butterflies appear with yellow spots on the front wings. They lay one egg per flower. New caterpillars feed on fruit without touching the berry, and during harvesting they go down the stem, climb into cracks in the bark at a height of about 30 cm from the soil. Caterpillars hibernate in white cocoons.
Control measures: careful cutting of fertile stems without leaving stumps and burning them. With a significant accumulation of the pest during the period of swelling of the kidneys, spraying with karbofos or fufanon (75-90 g per 10 l of water).
Damage to plantings is caused by white caterpillars with a brown-yellow head. Butterflies are bluish-black in color with lemon-yellow rings on the abdomen, resembling wasps. Massive insect years and egg-laying occur in July-August. The female lays one egg on the ground at the base of the shoot. The caterpillars that emerged from them penetrate under the bark, making spiral and ring-shaped passages under it, bite into the core, where they hibernate. In the place of wintering of pests, a swelling is formed on the shoot. After winter, the caterpillar moves along the stem for some time, then gnaws at the outlet for the future butterfly and pupates. Damaged shoots barely bear fruit, wither, break and dry out.
Control measures: cutting out all damaged stems and burning them, mulching the soil under the bushes.
The larvae cause harm. The active years of the pest occurs during the period of mass flowering of raspberries. Females lay eggs in groups of 8-15 on the lower part of young shoots. The orange-yellow caterpillars emerging from the larvae penetrate the shoots and after 3-4 weeks there are swellings, the bark bursts and falls behind. Caterpillars hibernate in galls in separate chambers.
Control measures:cutting and burning of damaged stems in autumn and early spring.
The larvae cause damage to the plant. They hibernate in cocoons in the upper soil layer at the base of raspberry shoots. Years of adult insects of the first generation occurs in the second decade of May. The female lays eggs under the bark of young shoots, which by this time reach a height of 20-40 cm. The pest prefers worn places, cuts, wounds and cracks on the shoots. After a week, white larvae appear from the eggs, they live under the bark, then turn pink, turn orange, and after two weeks they go into the soil and pupate at the base of the shoot. The emergence of a new generation and oviposition occurs 3-3.5 weeks after pupation. The female can lay eggs in the lateral fruit branches. Often, the larvae of the last generation remain on the shoots during the harvesting of seedlings. Together with them, the pest is introduced into new plantings.
Control measures: selection of resistant varieties, the use of healthy planting material, thinning of shoots, digging the soil in autumn and spring. With a large number of pests, spraying during the growth of shoots with a solution of karbofos, kinimix, bitoxibacillin.
The larva causes damage to plants. The fly's massive summer occurs in mid-May. The female lays one egg at the tops of young shoots. After a week, larvae appear there, which eat 2-8 ring-shaped canals under the shoot skin, gradually sinking down the shoot. The locations of these channels are visible on the blue rings of the bark. Above the point of damage, the top of the stem bends, withers, blackens and decays. The shoot stops growing. The larva under the skin of the stem descends to the base, emerges from it, buries itself in the soil and hibernates.
Control measures: cut off and destroy the tops of damaged stems, loosening the soil in late autumn and early spring to disturb wintering sites, mulching the soil in early spring with a thick layer of mulch material, with a large number of pests, spraying with pesticides (karbofos, kinimix or bitoxibacillin).
Adult females hibernate under the scales of raspberry buds. During bud break, the pests settle and concentrate on the underside of the leaf. Damaged leaves from above are covered with pale green oily, vague spots, become ugly. At the end of August, at temperatures below + 11 ° C, ticks lose their mobility and go to winter in the buds of young shoots.
Control measures: plantation plantation with healthy material, do not plant tick-sensitive varieties.
Adults hibernate on weeds, under leaves and other debris. In May, they spread to more mature leaves. Infected leaves first become covered with light dots, then turn yellow and dry out. The thickened and clogged areas of plantings with weakened or old shoots are more affected. With poor mineral nutrition, plantings are damaged more. The mite dramatically reduces the productivity of plantings.
Control measures: removal of weeds and debris from the plantation - wintering places for adults. During the period of the pest settling on raspberries, treatment with pesticides - in the spring before bud break - with nitrafen (200-300 g per 10 l of water), before flowering and after harvesting - with karbofos (75-90 g per 10 l of water).
Symptoms of the disease appear on shoots, leaves, buds and berries, but they are most noticeable on shoots in the form of deep gray specks, which, growing, merge with neighboring ones, turning into large deep gray rounded spots with purple edges. Later, the affected surface of the shoot, several centimeters long, is covered with a brownish, rough, cracking tissue. In this case, the healthy surface of the shoot rises above the affected one, and the shoot looks warty. Leaves affected by a fungal infection become perforated, curl and fall off prematurely. The buds either do not develop at all, or form weak fruit branches. Affected drupes remain green, so the berry is irregular and unripe.
Control measures: selection of resistant varieties, plantation establishment with healthy material, timely implementation of agrotechnical measures.
The first signs of fungal disease are characteristic purple spots around the base of the leaf. Growing up, the spots merge into larger ones, covering a significant part of the shoot. By autumn, the shoots in the affected areas become gray and cracked, or form weak fruit twigs the next year.
Control measures:the use of more resistant or hardy varieties, to exclude thickening of the plantation, to protect the cover tissues of the shoots from mechanical damage. Spraying shoots in the spring before bud break with a 3% Bordeaux liquid, in summer before flowering and after harvesting - with a 1% solution.
The causative agent of the disease is located in a thirty-centimeter layer of soil and remains in it for up to 10-14 years. The fungus enters the bush through the bark of the roots and spreads further through the vessels. The infected plant dies within one to two seasons. Signs of damage are yellowing, wilting and death of leaves at the base of the shoot. Shoots stop growing, turn blue, then turn black. The top withers, wilts and dies off.
Control measures: selection of resistant varieties, proper soil preparation, exclusion of tomatoes and potatoes from predecessors.
The disease is widespread, causes decay of inflorescences, berries and the death of shoots. It develops especially rapidly in wet weather. Rotten berries lose their taste and aroma, change color, and then dry up. They are unsuitable not only for fresh use, but also for processing. Affected shoots crack, become covered with black fruiting bodies of the fungus, break and die off.
Control measures: the same as with didimella.
A particularly dangerous disease. Shoots become infected through pruning wounds, stems rubbing against trellis wire, or thorns from adjacent shoots. Already two years later, after infection, dark brown spots appear on the shoots, which turn white by autumn. The buds above the infection site either do not form fruit twigs or wither before harvesting. If the infection occurred at the beginning of summer, then the shoot above the site of infection dies off.
Control measures: planting with healthy material, using protective measures recommended against didimella and anthracnose.
The causative agent is rod-shaped bacteria that live in the soil and penetrate the root system through cracks and wounds in the roots. In the affected plants, lumpy growths of various sizes are formed on the roots, root collar and rhizome, at first light, then brown. With severe damage, plant growth is weakened, the leaves turn yellow, the berries become smaller and lose their taste.
Control measures: laying plantings with healthy material, applying increased doses of organic fertilizers, planting after the best predecessors - cereals and legumes, which heal the soil from root cancer.
The causative agents of viral diseases (viruses) are the smallest protein compounds that do not have a cellular structure and can reproduce only with living plant cells. Infection occurs when the juice of a diseased plant enters a healthy one. Carriers of viruses are aphids, leafhoppers, ticks, nematodes, sometimes - a tool for pruning plants and digging up soil. Mycoplasma organisms have a cellular structure and are transmitted mainly by leafhoppers, sometimes by nematodes and ticks.
The most dangerous are viral diseases - curliness (shoots thicken and shorten, leaves curl, berries dry up), chlorosis or jaundice (leaves turn yellow, wrinkle, shoots thin and stretch in length, fruit twigs turn yellow, berries become smaller, deformed, lose their taste and dry out), mosaic (mosaic color of leaves with the appearance of convex areas and thinning of the leaf blade, thinning of shoots that lag behind in growth; berries become smaller, lose their taste, the affected bushes die over time).
Mycoplasma diseases include overgrowth, or "witch's broom" (the formation of bunches of 200-300 thin shoots with short stature, small chlorotic leaves, deformed flowers, on which the ovary does not form).
Control measures: the use of healthy planting material of relatively resistant varieties, regular inspection of plantings with the removal and destruction of diseased plants, the fight against vectors of viruses, a high level of agricultural technology. You should not plant new plants in the place of remote diseased bushes.
candidate of agricultural sciences
No less than pests of raspberries, various diseases can annoy. It is hard to say which of these two misfortunes can harm her more. One way or another, but you need to fight them in time, and thanks to the information below, you will be able to identify raspberry diseases and their treatment will not be a problem for you.
An insidious disease that can affect all parts of the plant. It all starts with brown spots that have a dark edging. They gradually increase and fill the entire space of the sheet. In the future, cracks appear in these places, and rot can develop in wet weather.
There can be several reasons for the occurrence of anthracnose, but one of the main ones is the lack of phosphorus and potassium. The development of the disease begins in warm and humid weather, so if it rains frequently, then for prevention it is worth treating with fungicides.
It is very easy to determine the disease by the presence of small purple spots on young shoots. They grow very quickly in diameter and take up most of the leaf. As a result of this disease, the bushes are greatly weakened, they can hardly tolerate wintering and become more vulnerable to other diseases.
Fungicide treatment gives good results in the fight against purple spotting. Before flowering, young shoots are treated with topaz or any other broad-spectrum systemic agent. Before buying and planting new seedlings, pay attention to their leaves. In case of damage to the aerial part, it is cut off, and only the rhizome is used for planting.
The presence of the disease is indicated by small brown, and then white spots. They appear on leaves and stems, after which they become covered with black spores. Depressing effect on the growth of the bush.
Preventive control measures include moderate watering and rare plantings (it is important to provide airing to the shoots). In autumn and spring, plantings are treated with copper sulfate, and in the event of a disease with a contact fungicide.
The disease manifests itself as irregular brownish spots that appear on growing stems. Over time, they turn gray and form small depressions in which cracks appear. Black spores can be observed on the surface.
Affected bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid (1%), and in case of mass destruction with a stronger fungicide. After harvest, the concentration can be increased.
A dangerous disease that can only be detected when transplanting bushes. As a result of the defeat of the roots by bacteria, massive growths appear on them. Shoot growth slows down and yield decreases.
There is no cure for bacterial cancer. All affected shoots are removed and burned, and healthy ones are transplanted to a new place, adding a generous dose of mineral fertilizers under them.
A dangerous viral disease that manifests itself in the form of yellow-green spots on the leaves. It spreads quickly enough. Plants look weakened and depressed.
It is difficult to treat, therefore, severely affected bushes must be ruthlessly uprooted. Do not get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers and do not neglect the autumn and spring treatment of bushes with copper sulfate.
This disease can be determined by the appearance of the root growth: it has a thickened stem and twisted leaves. In addition, the leaves become smaller and take on a bronze tint.
If you do not take action in time, the infected raspberry tree will die in a few years. It is almost impossible to cure curliness with drugs, so plants with signs of the disease are removed and burned.
This disease is carried by cicadas and the result is excessive thickening of the bushes. A huge number of thin, weakened shoots are growing.
The overgrowth of bushes cannot be treated, therefore all affected bushes are removed, and saltpeter is introduced into the soil for digging (up to 100 g per 1 sq. M). The only way out is to purchase bushes resistant to this disease.
Plants, like humans, have many enemies. But if wild species over millions of years have learned to adapt and survive, then cultivated plants are less hardy, and in order not to cry over the harvest, the gardener must timely recognize signs of illness their green pets, competently conduct a course of "treatment", know "by sight" of pests and in every way limit their number.
The most vicious - common bear ... Loves low damp places, but hibernates (in adulthood or in the larval phase) in well-fertilized warm soil, often in manure. Her front legs are digging. Making moves in the soil, the bear gnaws at the roots of plants, eats out large cavities in potato tubers and root crops of vegetables.
Control measures. It is always necessary to destroy the bear, but especially at the end of May - in June, while the insects have not mated, because in July the female lays 200-300 eggs. Fishing pits are arranged in the fall, filled with horse manure and sawdust, dug out in winter and eliminated sleeping pests. To scare away bears in the summer, they use salted fish waste (they drop it into the soil when planting seedlings) and green alder branches (stick it in vegetable beds with an interval of 1.5 m). The insect does not tolerate pungent odors, therefore, sowing of garlic and peppermint, flooding the passages and nests with poisonous (for her!) Solutions are useful in the fight against it. They are prepared on the basis of kerosene (100 g per 1 liter of water), hot pepper and dry mustard (100 g per 10 liters of water), vinegar (1 glass per 5 liters of water), ammonia (1/2 cup per 10 liters of water ), washing powder (4 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).
The most effective, however, is the chemical method. Here is the composition of the poisoned bait. Vegetable oil is added to steamed grains of wheat and corn and mixed with pesticides (for 1 kg of dry grain, 50 g of zinc phosphide, or 25 g of Parisian greens, or 70 g of calcium arsenate paste). The baits are laid before sowing and planting seedlings in grooves 3 cm deep (10 g per 1 running meter), and in a greenhouse - at the bottom of the pit, before stuffing. Around the greenhouse (greenhouse), it is also worth making grooves by soaking them with kerosene.
Have click beetle the larvae have a mobile thin and solid body, for which they got the name - wireworms. It is they who harm our crops. They are brought into the greenhouse and greenhouse with humus and peat. In vegetable crops, they eat tubers and roots, shoots and germinating seeds, gnaw at the stems at the surface. Acid weed soils are especially fond of.
Control measures. Kill wheatgrass and other cereal weeds systematically. Dig deep into the soil, loosen the aisles (most of the eggs and larvae may die), apply soil liming and pre-sowing seed dressing in the spring, add ammonium sulfate (25 g per 1 m 2) or ammonium nitrate (15 g per 1 m 2). Watering the wells before planting with a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water, 0.5 liters per hole), according to some reports, not only scares away wireworms, but also leads to their death. Wireworms sometimes leave the site if legumes are grown along with potatoes. Try to catch beetles with baits - potato peels, beetroot peels or nibs. They are dug in to a depth of 5-10 cm with a cut down, a twig is stuck in to notice this place, and after a day or two, the baits are examined, wireworms are collected and eliminated.
Greenhouse whitefly (greenhouse) affects various vegetable and ornamental crops in open and protected ground. She is especially partial to tomato, cucumber, parsley, salad, celery. It settles on the underside of the leaves. Larvae and nymphs (after two molts) feed on sap. The leaves are withering. Whitefly leaves a sugary excrement on which sooty fungi settle.
Control measures In the greenhouse, separately grow vegetable and flower crops, disinfect in a timely manner, remove plant residues, spray the plants with clean water or infusion of tobacco, black henbane, followed by loosening and mulching the soil with sand, peat, sawdust with a large lesion, the use of biological and chemical agents is shown. Millipedes affect cabbage, carrots, cucumber, lettuce, leeks, beans both in the open field and in the greenhouse. Of all types of millipedes, we are interested in nodules and drupes. They eat away leaves, cavities from seeds and stems. They enter the greenhouse with manure, humus. If kivsaki are vegetarians, then drupes are predators (they eat worms and insects). In case of danger, the first ones immediately twist into a ring.
|Control measures. Since centipedes love acidic soils, liming is useful. If there are many pests, insecticides are used.|
Field slug I am hungry for any vegetable, especially cabbage, carrots and lettuce. Especially during the rainy season. Lays eggs in turf, under stones, to the root collars of plants. During the day, adults hide, and at night they crawl out hunting, eating holes and cavities in the juicy tissues. In cloudy weather, in the rain, at dusk, they are easy to spot.
Control measures. Destroy weeds. At the borders of the site, you can lay out wet burlap, rags, burdock leaves: during the day slugs will gather there, and in the evening you will collect them. Sprinkle the rows and aisles with sand (slugs will not pass here). You can pollinate crops with a mixture of slaked lime with tobacco dust in equal parts (20 g per 1 m 2) or oven ash.
Very gluttonous beetle, or the well-known May beetle. The greatest harm is caused by the western May beetle. It flies at dusk until mid-summer. Winters in light soil. The hatching larva feeds on humus and roots, then - on all underground parts of plants.
Control measures. Agricultural engineering and physical method are the main ones: the soil must be carefully dug up, the aisles during the growing season must be loosened with the removal of weeds.
Scoops - pretty cute butterflies, but the damage can be huge. The garden scoop is generally indiscriminate in food - it affects cabbage, rutabagas, turnips, rhubarb, tomato, beans in the open field, tomato and cucumber in a sheltered one. Caterpillars eat leaves, and in tomatoes and cucumbers they can make a large cavity. Of the gnawing scoops, the winter scoop is more common. Butterflies fly in the evening and at night in June, adult caterpillars, having nibbled on the roots and roots of plants during the day, also crawl out to the surface at night, gnawing the stems. The gamma scoop attacks many vegetables, especially crucifers and legumes. Most of all, it harms on clogged crops.
Control measures. Timely weed control and deep autumn digging of the site.
Lethal for pests are: infusions and decoctions of dope, burdock leaves (3 times with an interval of 6-8 days), a solution of coniferous concentrate, and infusions of chamomile, bitter capsicum, potato and tomato tops, a decoction of wormwood (2 times with an interval of 7 days) ...
Butterflies are caught using baits: place small containers just above ground level, pour diluted molasses (1: 3) and add a little yeast.
Miner is polyphagous more precisely, its larvae make "mines" - passages in the leaves. In the open field, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, lettuce are most vulnerable to it. The miner in greenhouses is even more harmful. Just think - and after all, the larva has no legs and even without a head.
Control measures. Ruthlessly pull out weeds; remove damaged leaves in the greenhouse; disinfect.
He loves the leaves of cucumbers, tomatoes, beans, and the common spider mite. It plunders mainly in greenhouses, but in hot and dry weather it can damage many crops also in the open field. Already from the end of February, overwintered females lay about a hundred eggs. Over the season, if you do not take action, several generations will appear! Plants are entangled in cobwebs along which ticks run briskly.
Control measures. The same as with the miner. In addition, we recommend using x looking phytoseiulus or acaricides. Plants can be treated with a 0.4% solution (4 g per 1 liter of water) of ordinary soda with the addition of 0.5% soap (5 g per 1 liter of water). Of the chemical preparations, colloidal sulfur, fitoverm are recommended.
Thrips are even more fertile than ticks. Up to 10 generations of greenhouse thrips (greenhouse) develop per year! But if he prefers greenhouse cucumbers, then tobacco thrips affects both onions and other vegetables, in addition, it carries viral diseases.
If you notice yellowish-white spots on the leaves that soon merge, it may be his job. Gradually, the leaves turn brown and dry. In spring, thrips feed on weeds, later they move on to cultivated plants.
Control measures. Destroy weeds and plant residues, disinfect the soil and the greenhouse, use herbal decoctions and infusions, create unbearable conditions for pests (greenhouse thrips larvae lag behind at temperatures below 15 ° C and die at a relative humidity of up to 50%).
Separately, it should be said about rodents. Rats and mice (field, brownie) cause great harm to vegetables, especially root crops. Rats breed all year round. They carry infections that are dangerous to humans. All control measures are good: deep digging of the soil, removal of debris and plant debris, filling up cracks in the premises, using traps and poisoned baits. We advise you to cover the plants for the winter with spruce branches from mice. These rodents do not tolerate the smell of naphthalene - which means that near their holes and loopholes pour a mixture of naphthalene and sawdust in equal proportions.
Raspberries are a traditional inhabitant of garden and summer cottages of hundreds of thousands of Russian plant breeders. Fragrant, tasty and extremely healthy, this berry is characterized by unpretentious care and a high ability to bear fruit abundantly. However, it happens that the yield indicators of raspberries do not please its owner at all, and the reason for this is most often plant diseases or pests. Consider the symptoms of common ailments of garden raspberries and look for available ways to effectively heal the berry.
Diseases of raspberries and the fight against them are a rather annoying part of caring for plants, but a must for a gardener. Most of all, the raspberry plant is susceptible to the following diseases (all of them are of a fungal nature):
Treatment of fungal diseases of raspberries is, first of all, their high-quality prevention: uprooting and burning affected bushes, thorough weeding, aeration of the soil, early treatment of plants in spring with special means, for example, 0.5% copper oxychloride or 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid, and etc.
If only remontant raspberries grow on your site, diseases are likely to bypass the berry. The good health of the plants of the remontant varieties is ensured by their annual winter mowing, which excludes the possibility of the reproduction of spores of harmful fungi, which winter mainly on plant debris. Rare cases of fungal diseases in remontant raspberries usually occur due to the proximity of their planting to regular or wild-growing raspberries. Treatment measures for plants affected by fungi are the same as for common raspberries.
Along with destructive fungal diseases, a serious danger to raspberries is posed by its pests, first of all - these are:
· Shoot gall midge (raspberry gnat), the larvae of which damage the bark of the shoots, subsequently causing them to dry out and die off. To cope with gall midge helps twice - in spring and autumn - spraying the bushes with a solution of karbofos, deep digging of the soil near the plants and timely pruning of diseased shoots, with the obligatory and prompt burning of the infected material.
· Larvae of raspberry kidney moth, gnawing raspberry buds from the inside and penetrating from them into the shoots of plants. Old plantings of raspberries are especially susceptible to damage by kidney moths. The recommended means of prevention and control of the pest are systematic cutting and burning of sprouted shoots and spraying the plants during the period of bud swelling with insecticidal preparations.
Watch the health of your raspberry tree, take good care of the plants, and they will delight you every year with an amazing abundance of incredibly tasty and healthy berry harvest!
Various diseases can affect raspberries on a personal plot. Consider the most common raspberry diseases and how to treat them.
The death of raspberry shoots is caused by the fungus Didymella applanata. It is also called Purpure Raspberry Spot (Didimella). This is the most dangerous disease of raspberries.The infection spreads most rapidly in places where moisture accumulates, that is, in the nodes of the leaves.
The first symptoms of the appearance of the fungus are purple-brown spots on the shoots. Gradually, the spots begin to coalesce, covering a significant part of the shoot. In autumn, when the shoots are already woody, the spots acquire a silvery hue. Fungal spores are visible on the surface of large spots. The bark on infected shoots begins to flake off and fall off. The next year, the infected stems die off.
The fight against this disease of raspberries involves the removal of diseased shoots, which must be done in the spring... During the intensive growth of raspberries, it is imperative to treat the plants with special preparations, giving preference to biological ones, in order to get a harvest of environmentally friendly berries.
The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Botrytis cinerea, which affects many other plants in the garden. Plants that are too densely planted are most commonly affected by gray mold. A favorable environment for the development of a fungus is dampness. Gray mold on raspberries
Gray mold develops on the aboveground part of the bushes. Diseased flowers and buds of raspberries become dry and brown. In spring, large light brown spots appear on young shoots.
At various stages of growth, raspberries can be attacked by gray mold. The disease may be asymptomatic at first.... But during harvest, especially in wet weather, signs of disease can be detected.
First of all, the fight against gray mold is to limit the spread of foci of infection. It is necessary to thin out the raspberry tree systematically, removing excess growth. The goal is to improve air circulation between plants.
To combat gray mold, the same drugs are used as against the death of shoots.
Anthracosis can be called a harmless, but quite common disease of raspberries. The disease is caused by the fungus Plectodiscella veneta. The disease manifests itself as early as the beginning of spring. Anthracosis slows down the development of young shoots and due to the disease, the tops of the branches first begin to die off. The disease spreads rapidly during rainy periods.
The first symptom of the development of anthracosis on raspberries is the appearance of gray spots surrounded by a brown rim. Diseased leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. Similar symptoms can be seen on flowers. Sick raspberries produce small, deformed, hard and dry fruits.
Fight against raspberry anthracosis by cutting out diseased shoots and improving air circulation in the raspberry tree. Before flowering, raspberries need to be sprayed with drugs that are used to treat gray mold.
[meta_gallery_carousel> Dwarfism or Witch broom (Rubus Stunt) also known as Overgrowth, Dwarfism raspberries, Wedbmina broom
Mycoplasma disease can cause severe growth retardation in raspberries. This is a very dangerous disease. Symptoms of the disease appear only in the second year. Mostly the disease is transmitted by pests.
First, numerous thin shoots begin to grow at the base of the bushes. The bush becomes small. Short branches develop on the shoots, the development of deformed flowers begins. From year to year, the condition of the raspberry grows worse, and at the end the raspberry dies.
As soon as the symptoms of this disease are noticed, the diseased bushes along with the roots should be immediately removed. Only healthy material should be used for planting new plants. During the cultivation of raspberries, it is imperative to fight against aphids, which are the carrier of mycoplasma. What a witch's broom looks like on raspberries you can see below in the photo:
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We will not go into the details of the fight against raspberry chlorosis, but we invite you to watch an interesting video about the treatment of this scourge.
To prevent spotting, anthracnose and rust, spray the bushes before bud break with a solution of HOM, Agrolekar, Topaz, Baktofit or Alirin-B.
If the raspberry is damaged by the stem gall midge, immediately after the snow melts, cut out all the affected shoots, and then abundantly moisten the soil and remaining branches with Fufanon-Nova solution. After flowering plants, repeat the treatment.
The second treatment, in addition to the gall midge, will repel the attack of the stem fly, raspberry beetle and strawberry-raspberry weevil. Another option is Alatar, Iskra, Taran or Fitoverm.
1. Planting trees and shrubs.
In October, you can still plant fruit, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers. It is not recommended to plant evergreen rhododendrons, it is better to wait for spring. The soil under young plantings should be mulched for the winter with a layer of peat, garden soil, humus or chopped cut healthy perennials, retreating from the trunk by 5-7 cm.
2. We clean tree trunks.
While there is no snow, you need to deal with the trunks of old trees. Pests and diseases like to settle behind peeling, lagging bark. Moss and lichens are an extra burden for the tree. Trunks and branches are cleaned with a coarse, stiff burlap or special iron brushes. Then the trees need to be treated with fungicides for disinfection.
Whitewash the barrels with water-based paint.
Treat for insects and then whitewash. Such processing of trees will protect from sunburn in early spring and from the bright winter sun, which reflects from the snow can affect the bark of trees (especially young ones) when their bark has not yet matured. These works must be done until the temperature drops below 6 degrees Celsius.
3. Top dressing.
If in September there was not enough time to feed the trees and shrubs, then we carry out the autumn feeding in October - we sprinkle phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or complete complex fertilizers, according to the instructions on the package.
4. Putting things in order in the orchard.
After harvesting, you need to collect all the carrion, mummified fruits, otherwise they will contribute to various infections and diseases in the next year.
In early spring, it is not always possible to get out to the country and cut trees, so this can be done in the fall. Apple trees and pears can easily tolerate pruning in the fall, while plums and cherries are best left until spring (with the exception of dry and broken branches, which we cut off in the fall). But the shrubs - gooseberries, red and black currants - are cut in the fall, they wake up early, and even in the spring, "hands do not reach them."
6. We deal with raspberries.
If the planting of raspberries was not prepared in September, then this should be done in October. We cut out all the shoots that have borne, broken, weak and diseased. 3-4 strong young shoots are left for the next year harvest, and the rest are cut out. For the winter, it is recommended to bend the raspberry branches to the ground to protect them from freezing.