Basic principles of preserving vegetables in the cellar

The experience of storing vegetables and fruits in the cellar under the country house (part 3)

Read the previous part: Features of storing various types of vegetables and apples in the cellar

Due to the fact that at the end of the season no one lives in the house, you have to take some precautions to keep the vegetables safe and sound. I will list the mandatory points that we adhere to:

  • coming to the house for the weekend (Saturday and Sunday) in order to heat the stove in the house to a temperature of 20-22 ° and a set of the necessary vegetables for a week;
  • tight closing of the cellar "hatch";
  • throwing a house with snow above the level of the foundation on two logs (this event is carried out immediately after a sufficient amount of snow has fallen out or before the expected severe frosts);
  • taking protective measures to reduce the level of humidity in the cellar;
  • stationary capture of mice and other "animals";
  • storing fruits, if possible, away from potatoes and vegetables (otherwise, their quality is sharply reduced due to the absorption of all extraneous odors by the fruits;
  • control of all extraneous odors in the cellar (mold and rot).

The quality condition of vegetables stored

The most important condition for good keeping quality of vegetables is their timely harvesting in a mature state. Vegetables should not be harvested too early, before the onset of cold weather, nor should they be harvested too late after frost. Vegetables harvested after freezing are stored worse. The same applies to unripe vegetables.

All vegetables and fruits sent for storage must be of perfect quality, without the slightest signs of mechanical damage and obvious diseases. The exception, perhaps, is potato scab. Scab-affected potatoes are stored in the usual way.

Cellar disinfection measures

In the spring, immediately after the above-zero temperature has been established, all the plugs that block air access to the cellar are removed, and intensive ventilation of the entire space under the house and the cellar itself begins. This is also facilitated by strong winds, which usually continue in the Urals throughout May. All collapsible structures are disassembled and pulled out under the canopy for ventilation and drying. Such ventilation of the cellar should be carried out throughout the summer and autumn until a constant negative night temperature is established.

In the middle of summer (about 30 days before harvesting the products), quicklime mixed with iron vitriol is used to whitewash the inner and outer walls of the chest, as well as collapsible boxes for vegetables (1.5 kg of lime and 150 g of ferrous sulfate are infused in 10 liters of water within 1-2 hours). After that, it is necessary to thoroughly ventilate the cellar by opening the chest doors (the plugs should be open at the moment).

Room humidity

The relative humidity in the cellar should be kept within 90%. It is this level of moisture that will provide you with such a quality of vegetables, in which, taking out, for example, the next batch of carrots or beets from the cellar, you will be holding large and juicy vegetables in your hands that have retained a maximum of vitamins and other useful substances.

A significant drawback of our cellar is the fact that the distance from the floor to the ground is approximately 60 to 90 cm (with the exception of the area of ​​the cellar itself and the steps leading into it). As a result, the total air volume is relatively small, but it must be borne in mind that all vegetables breathe. This inevitably leads to an increase in air humidity, which, of course, is completely unacceptable.

Therefore, it is necessary to take protective measures to reduce the level of humidity. For this, quicklime is used, placed in large enough polyethylene basins. Such basins in the amount of 6 to 10 pieces have to be placed both under the house and in a chest with vegetables on special shelves. You can put boxes with calcium chloride, but this is quite expensive. In the literature, a variant of using dry moss for the same purpose is given, but this is also unacceptable for us, because you need to go far enough for moss. And the lime that has been extinguished during the winter season will find its legal use in the garden.

The next important point is the ventilation of the cellar. In the literature, it is recommended for this purpose stationary pull-exhaust ventilation, but, alas, it cannot be provided in our conditions. Therefore, we were forced to apply the following measures in the conditions of our makeshift cellar:

  • made ventilation holes in the doors of the vegetable chest (6 pieces with a diameter of 10 mm: three holes in the upper part of the door and three in the bottom);
  • we use a short-term opening of the cellar hatch in order to ensure air circulation at the time of burning the stove when the air temperature in the room reaches about 15 ° С; due to the temperature difference inside and outside the cellar, the air moves actively and is replaced both in the cellar and in the vegetable chest;
  • do not close the chest doors tightly, except when the outside temperature drops below 10 ° C.

The level of the temperature maintained in the cellar

In the fall, before storing vegetables, it is necessary to take measures to reduce the temperature in the cellar to the optimum by opening the hatch at night. Naturally, this must be done so that mice do not get into the house from the cellar.

In addition, you should close the plugs in the cellar gradually, as the temperature decreases. By the time the night temperature drops to -2 ...- 3 ° C, all plugs must be closed.

The temperature in the cellar should be kept within 1 ... 4 ° С. Under our conditions, the temperature under the floor is not entirely constant and ranges from 2 ° C to 3 ° C. In an improvised chest, the temperature conditions are slightly better, and the thermometer is stable, even in thirty-degree frosts, at around + 1 ° С. Under the floor in severe frosts, the temperature sometimes drops to -1 °. True, this is possible only after the New Year. Until the New Year, you usually should not be afraid for vegetables just under the house. Therefore, in general, you have to adhere to the following measures:

  • most of the vegetables are stored in a vegetable chest (about two-thirds of potatoes, carrots and beets);
  • seed potatoes, onion sets and dahlias are also placed on one of the shelves inside the chest;
  • the remaining vegetables (potatoes, carrots and beets for food in the autumn months) are located in wooden boxes installed above the vegetable chest; in case of unforeseen autumn cold weather, they are covered with a triple or quadruple layer of covering material;
  • Savoy and short-lived white cabbage are hung on carnations driven into the lower floor boards of the house;
  • long-stored white cabbage is piled up on the wooden flooring in a slide.

S. Shlyakhtina, Yekaterinburg

A bit of the history of organic farming

Natural farming theory is not as new as it seems. The first to suggest and test it was the scientist agronomist I. Ye. Ovsinsky. As a result of 10 years of work, in 1899, he wrote a book called "The New Farming System", in which he revealed the principles and evidence that a gentle approach to soil is less aggressive towards nature, less laborious and ultimately more productive. than an intensive farming system.

Organic crop. © Elina Mark

The study of natural farming did not stop there. Not to say that all these years it was popular, it always had supporters and enemies, but research went on, and again, and again proved that respect for the soil gives really meaningful results. As a result, today the meaning of organic farming can be expressed as follows:

  • preservation and support of natural soil fertility,
  • conservation of the ecosystem,
  • obtaining environmentally friendly products,
  • investment of significantly lower costs for harvesting.

Electric dryer or oven for drying

In the battle for the best drying method, an oven and an electric dryer itself can take part. But the loss of the oven will be ensured by a longer operating mode, and, as a result, by cosmic bills for consumed electricity.

This is the option when buying a bag of dried fruit is really cheaper. In addition, a working oven creates additional stuffiness in the house in the hot summer.

A dryer specially designed for this is very easy to use, and the efficiency from its work is high and superior to other types of drying.

Top Rules for Successful Growing in Greenhouses

Nowadays, every gardener thinks about creating a heifer on his site in order to get an earlier and tasty harvest, which is why the popularity of absolutely all types of greenhouses is gaining momentum every year. Each type has features and nuances, because not only the result depends on the type of greenhouse, but also the work itself, which leads to successful cultivation.

A greenhouse is a partial protection of the soil from weather disasters for the full development of plants. The desire to get high-quality seedlings or early product with minimal financial costs is the main goal of creating greenhouses on a personal plot.

Care features

Composition in pink tones

Caring for a stone garden depends on the composition of the planted plant species and the rockery device. But there are also universal recommendations:

  • watering is carried out as needed to a depth of 7-8 cm
  • rockery should be weeded, carefully removing the weeds, the soil under the plants is mulched to retain moisture after watering
  • fertilizers are applied only to those plants that need it
  • regularly remove dead and dried leaves, inflorescences, prune overgrown shoots of ground cover species
  • instead of dead plants, new ones are planted
  • check if the soil has eroded during rains and snow melting, if this happened, add soil, sand and tamp

Near plants requiring neutral or alkaline soil (gypsophila, edelweiss, yaskolka, lumbago), lime is added to the soil. Caring for rockery is easy and within the power of a novice gardener. Subject to the basic rules, the stone garden will delight its owner for many years.

VIDEO: Creation of a rockery in a couple of hours. landscape design

Creation of a rockery in a couple of hours. landscape design

Rockery in the country with their own hands - the kingdom of stones and plants: step by step instructions + schemes | (150+ Photos & Videos)

Brief information about diatomite

The basis for the development of the tool was the natural porous mineral diatomite. It is a sedimentary rock composed of the remains of ancient microscopic diatom algae. In appearance, when grinding, diatomite resembles flour. Therefore, the mineral is also called "Infuser land", or "Mountain flour". Diatomaceous earth has the ability to absorb enormous amounts of liquid. After special processing of the feedstock, the adsorbing property of "flour" increases thousands of times. The smallest particles of this product, obtained using a unique technology, contain up to 88% silicon dioxide in an amorphous form and have sharp cutting edges. Ultra-miniature and incredibly strong particles (Mohs hardness coefficient equal to 6) dig into the bodies of insects, damaging the joints and joints, creating a molecular sieve in a protective wax layer, which leads to the death of the insect from desiccation.

Park, floribunda roses and ground cover: should they be covered

Since park roses are highly winter-hardy, many gardeners do not cover them. We recommend that you play it safe and create additional protection for the seedlings so that these charming roses will delight you with lush flowering in the summer. Floribunda and ground cover roses also need light cover, so we combined them into one group. The winter shelter of roses for these species is simple: it is enough to spud the seedlings with garden soil or, for example, with peat and cover them with spruce branches from coniferous branches.

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