Heucherella is a plant bred specifically for landscape design. The first such hybrid was created in Europe at the beginning of the 20th century. This perennial from the saxifrage family is the fruit of a cross between heuchera and tiarella. From the first he took similar inflorescences, from the second - the compact size and shape of the leaves. Due to its decorative properties and peculiarities of cultivation, Heycherella is loved by both designers and gardeners. It is often used in flower arrangements in parks and gardens. This flower is found both on the shores of garden ponds, and as bordering borders, decorating flower beds, rockeries and rock gardens.

Geyherella is undemanding to the level of illumination, does not require special care measures, is sufficiently drought-resistant, and can withstand severe frost during snowy winters. In addition, the flower is responsive to feeding, and its beautiful leaves retain their decorative effect until deep frost.

Description of Heykherella

Heycherella can be grown both in the open field and in large garden pots. Its thick roots are located close to the soil surface. The plant is distinguished by flexible pinkish shoots that form a spherical bush, and not only airy inflorescences, panicles, but also elegant carved leaves give it beauty.

The petioles and the underside of the foliage of this flower are covered with thick fluff. In shape, its dissected leaves are a bit like maple leaves, but have softer outlines. For the winter, they do not dry out, continuing to remain fresh under the snow. Coloring directly depends on the variety. There are varieties with variegated multi-colored leaves or a predominance of one leading shade: yellow, green or purple.

The average height of a heykherella is about half a meter, but in summer, thanks to the peduncles, the bush may seem a little higher. The flowering period lasts from July to August.

Planting heycherella in open ground

The hybrid combines the best qualities of the unpretentious and shade-tolerant mountain beauties of tiarella and heuchera. Moreover, it is considered even more frost-resistant. With good shelter and snow cover, Heycherells are not afraid of cold temperatures down to -40 degrees. Many properties of their "parents" were transferred to this plant. Like Heuchera, it prefers neutral or slightly alkaline soil, and also does not like waterlogging. A sandy or clayey area is best suited for cultivation.

Despite the general unpretentiousness to the degree of lighting, it is recommended to choose a place for planting heycherella based on its variety. Plants with dark leaves usually prefer shady corners (in the sun their colors may fade), with light ones - moderately sunny. A place with a diffused, lacy shadow can be considered universal. It is important that rainwater does not accumulate or stagnate in it.

When growing heycherella in mid-latitudes, dolomite flour is added to the soil prepared for planting. To ensure the removal of excess moisture from the roots, a small layer of drainage (up to 5 cm thick) is poured into each of the planting holes. Wood ash can also be added there - it will serve as fertilizer for the seedling. After the heycherella is lowered into the hole, the remaining space should be filled with fertile soil, but at the same time try to leave the central kidney open. Geyherella does not require a large distance between the bushes, but no more than 12 bushes should be planted per 1 square meter.

Heycherella care rules

Geyherella is so undemanding to care for that even a novice gardener can grow it. You can water the plant lightly on a regular basis (this contributes to the abundance of flowering), but the main thing is to do it during long dry periods. In this case, a strong overflow is considered harmful to the plant.

Top dressing is usually required only for young specimens: they are fertilized with nitrogen-containing preparations. But it is important not to overdo it with them: the growth of the green mass can negatively affect the winter hardiness of the plant. You can fertilize the flower in the spring, at the beginning of the season, and in the summer, at the end of flowering. It is good if phosphorus is present in the preparations. Organic additives are applied in minimal quantities - their excess will harm the flower.

Due to the fact that the roots of Heycherella do not go deep underground, at times they can become bare. This should be monitored, periodically sprinkling the area around the bush with a mixture of sand and humus.

Some varieties of Heycherella are resistant to severe frosts, but some hybrids can still freeze slightly. To be sure of the survival of plants, it is still recommended to cover them for the winter. Hilling and mulching are also suitable, helping to cover the upper part of the root. As it grows, it lifts the ground and becomes bare. Heycherell can be closed for another reason. If the plantings are located in a sunny place, after the spring melting of snow, the evergreen foliage of the plants will begin to evaporate moisture, depleting the dormant roots. Dry weather during this period can destroy plantings faster than cold weather. A shelter can protect flowers. It should be removed gradually, on a cloudy day. The only exceptions are dense covering materials: with the onset of heat, the flower will need airing, but it is impossible to drastically deprive it of its shade. After the final removal of the shelter, you can additionally water the bushes with warm water to activate the vital activity of the roots.

After wintering, the bushes must be cleaned of old dried foliage. In order for them to retain their elegant appearance, division and transplantation procedures need to be carried out every few years. This is usually done every 3-4 years.

Breeding methods for heykherella

Due to the hybrid origin, it will not work to grow Heycherella from seeds: after flowering, the fruits on it, as a rule, do not form. Such a plant can only be propagated by cuttings or dividing the bush.

Dividing the bush

Division helps not only to get new heycherell bushes, but also to make them more attractive. Over time, old plantings begin to stretch out strongly, and their tops dry out.

In springtime, it is better not to disturb the flower. Transplantation and subsequent division are carried out in July-August. By this time, Heycherella will have already faded and will begin to grow the root mass. If you transplant them during this period, they will have time to settle down in a new place before frost.

The bush extracted from the ground is washed, cleaned of old dried parts and shoots, and divided into parts so that for each there is at least one healthy kidney. The resulting cuttings can be seated at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. Small ones can be pre-grown by first placing them in pots or containers, and only then planted in open ground. Watering such seedlings is necessary at least a couple of times a week.

If the plant just needs rejuvenation, you can not divide the dug out bush, but only remove the lateral growth from it.


For cuttings, young rosette shoots that grow in spring are chosen. The optimal time for cutting them is from the beginning of April to May.

Ready cuttings are placed in a jar of water; for faster root formation, you can add a stimulating drug to it, for example, Kornevin. The roots of such shoots grow back within a month. After that, they must be planted in pots with fertile soil. The rooting process is faster in the shade.

Such seedlings are transferred to open ground when they begin to actively develop and grow new leaves. Cuttings are taken very quickly. By the end of summer, they can catch up with adult plants in size. If the planting of grown cuttings in the garden fell on the fall, you should thoroughly insulate the plantings before the onset of cold weather. They are covered with straw, foliage or spruce branches. Covering material can also be used.

Heycherella diseases and pests

Plant diseases

Heycherella is very resistant to many diseases, but sometimes it is affected by powdery mildew or brown spot. The reason may be stagnation of water in the roots or proximity to a diseased specimen.

Powdery mildew can be recognized by the whitish formations on the foliage. A suitable fungidid will help in the fight against it.

Brown spot appears as brown spots. Most often, the disease is caused by too much rainfall in the summer. In this case, the earth does not have time to dry out properly. Spraying with preparations containing copper will help to save the plant.

Too bright sun can cause burns on the leaves of Heycherella. During such periods, you need to water the bushes more often. This is done early in the morning or in the evening after sunset. If burns occur too often, plants can be transplanted into a safer partial shade by fall.


Slugs can damage the leaf blades of a plant, leaving round holes and whitish streaks on them. You can get rid of them by trying not to let them near the flowers. To do this, in the morning or evening, hydrated lime or crushed eggshells are scattered near the bushes. Specialized insecticides are also acceptable.

Another possible pest is the furrowed weevil. These insects cause the top of the bushes to dry out. To scare them off, next to the plantings, sawdust soaked in creolin is scattered (for the solution, 1 tbsp.spoon in half a bucket is required). Another method of dealing with weevils: spraying with a solution of mustard powder (1 tablespoon per liter of water).

Types and varieties of heykherella with photos

The species and varieties of Heykherella differ in color and leaf size. Their palette of colors includes red, purple and green, as well as other shades. Panicle-like inflorescences are usually colored white, yellow or pink and consist of small bell-shaped flowers. Among the most famous varieties:

Bridget Bloom

Bright green leaves and pink inflorescences. The size of the peduncles reaches 45 cm.

Mint frost

Light green foliage with a silvery effect.

Buttered rum

Miniature variety, the size of the bush does not exceed 20 cm in height and 30 in width. Grows best in moderate shade under large trees. In spring and summer, the foliage is colored golden orange, in autumn it becomes burgundy.

This variety is often used for border plantings, as well as for filling rockeries. Looks good in combination with other varieties of heycherella, as well as hosta and geraniums.

Honey rose

A short, red-leaved shrub that goes well with green plants. The bright color of the foliage is complemented by coral stems and light pink inflorescences.

Solar Eclipse (Solar Eclipse)

The unusual name is associated with the color of the leaves. The main part of the leaf has a rich burgundy color, but at the same time has a light green edge.


The height of the bush is about 45 cm. In spring, the leaves are painted in a yellowish-green hue, by the end of summer the main color changes to a rich green, and the veins turn brown. The flowers are coral in color.


Large carved leaves of this variety are painted in different colors depending on the conditions outside. The warmer the weather, the more shades of green and yellow prevail in them. Purple and red tones correspond to coolness. The flowers of the variety are white, located on thin peduncles up to 30 cm tall. The flowering period lasts from the second half of May to the end of July.

Golden Zebra (Golden Zebra)

Red-orange leaves with a yellow-green border adorn a medium-sized bush. The flowers are white, the inflorescences are of medium height.

Stoplight (Traffic Light)

Broad bright green leaves are decorated with reddish veins. This variety blooms white. It looks most effective against the background of burgundy foliage or open ground with brown dumping. The height of the bush during the flowering period is up to 65 cm.

Brass Lantern

Red-orange foliage with a center and clear brown veins.

Tapestri (Tapestry)

Bright, heavily dissected foliage of blue-green color with dark brown veins is complemented by pale pink panicles of inflorescences. The bush of this variety is miniature, it reaches a height of only 25 cm.

The number of Heykherella varieties is constantly growing. Other popular and well-established varieties of the plant include "Kimono" with pinkish inflorescences and burgundy veins on green leaves, "Quick Silver" with silvery-white flowers and brown foliage. The large-leaved Sweet Tee in warm red-orange tones can serve as an excellent ground cover that drowns out weeds. Also noteworthy are "RedStoneFalls" with brown-orange leaves and a dark green border, "Alabama Sunrise" with yellow foliage, complemented by brown and framed with bright green, "Twilight", characterized by dark leaves with a silvery bloom.

Iris belongs to a rather unpretentious rhizome perennials. There are bearded, Siberian, Japanese, Louisiana irises. They are tall, medium-sized and dwarf. Thus, the height of the stem of irises ranges from 15-20 cm to 1.5 m. There are one-color and two-color irises. There are varieties with a light or dark border in the form of strokes, dots or stripes. They are referred to as bordered. There are irises iridescent, when a separate color is difficult to distinguish, and one tone is imperceptibly replaced by another.

As the practice of experienced florists shows, in a few years it is really possible to acquire a collection of 50 varieties. When choosing flowers for a site, you need to be guided by the color palette, size, corrugation and aroma of the flower. Experts recommend ennobling the garden with Japanese, Siberian, bulbous irises. Many people rely on bearded irises, which have a hairy "beard" on the lower part of the petals, which helps insects to pollinate the plant and is an ornament often different from the main color of the petals. Bright, large, elegant, irises stand out favorably against the background of the first greenery in spring, when the flowering season is just beginning. Irises fill the gap between the flowering of bulbs and the time when roses, peonies and hydrangeas begin to solo in the garden.

Bulbous irises are the first to bloom. Then comes the turn of the dwarfs. Later varieties delight with their flowering until July. Not only the flowers with their pearl tints are beautiful, but also the graceful foliage that adorns the flower bed after the iris has faded. And you don't have to look for rare varieties. Even the most common ones look chic and sophisticated, especially when they grow. Some varieties delight us with their re-flowering in August.


Bearded iris looks healthier in a sunny and elevated place, as it cannot stand stagnant water. But Siberian irises prefer moist places - you can prescribe by the pond. Compost, a handful of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are introduced into the planting pit. A mound is formed, on which the fan is placed, spreading the roots of the delenka. The iris rhizome is not buried. Excessive deepening provokes rot. After planting, irises are watered with Fitosporin to prevent fungal diseases. The more “thoroughbred” the iris, the more attention it will require from you. Such plants grow much more slowly than their simpler representatives. They are more likely to get sick and do not tolerate low freezing temperatures, these types of flowers should be covered in winter. The correct solution would be to plant them near roses. They go under cover with them. On rich, fertile soils, irises will delight you with bright colors and abundant flowering.

"Copper" prevention of ailments

The basis of iris care is weeding, loosening, fertilizing, watering. For the prevention of diseases, they are treated with copper-containing preparations together with roses.Affected leaves are cut short. If the rhizome itself begins to rot, which happens most often with varietal irises in rainy weather, the plant is dug up, cleaned to healthy tissues, soaked in Fitosporin solution, dried, the sections should be processed with crushed coal or brilliant green, and then they are planted in a new place.

Young plants get sick less often than old ones, so it is necessary to divide the rhizome as it grows.

Compulsory division

Transplanting and dividing irises is carried out in August. To do this, a bush is dug out, the earth is cleared, and it is divided with a knife so that the cuttings are with a fan and a piece of rhizome. Sections must be processed with crushed coal. The leaves are shortened by half, and the cut itself is slightly wilted in the sun before planting. The old parts of the rhizome are thrown away.

If the variety is especially valuable and a large yield of planting material is needed, the rhizome is divided into pieces with a bud. Such delenki are grown until the next season and only then are they planted in a permanent place. If the irises are not divided in a timely manner, the rhizome begins to grow and protrude above the ground. Irises become smaller, flowering becomes less abundant, and the protruding rhizome itself gradually begins to die off. The middle of the bush dries up. Therefore, it is important to ensure that the rhizome is not exposed, and to divide the irises in time!

Nuances of dressings

During one season, fertilizing is applied several times. It is important to alternate organic fertilizers with mineral fertilizers. Ash is poured in in early spring. In the stage of active growth, complex mineral fertilizers are applied with a predominance of nitrogen, and leaf feeding is also carried out. During the formation of flower stalks, potash fertilizers are applied. Potassium chloride is not recommended. Irises are also irrigated with mullein extracts. After fertilization, the soil is loosened to a depth of 5 cm, which ensures the flow of air to the roots. Loosening after rain or watering in dry weather is mandatory.

Preparation for wintering

For the winter, the fans of the plants are pruned by 50%. As the first frost sets in, the irises get rid of the rest of the yellowed foliage. Before the onset of frost, the rhizomes spud, which is necessary to prevent the roots from freezing. Some varietal irises overwinter under a shelter with roses. Japanese irises are covered with oak leaves and waterproof material. They can hibernate without shelter, but they freeze slightly and recover for a long time.

By following these simple recommendations, you can enjoy the riot of colors of beautiful irises every season!

Features of care.

Aglaonems are tropical plants, so they need warmth and adequate humidity, as well as protection from cold winds and direct sunlight.

Lighting. Species with green leaves are not as whimsical in terms of light levels as others and can be placed anywhere. For forms with spotted leaves, bright, diffused light is needed. Direct exposure to the sun can cause burns to the plant.

Temperature. A temperature of at least 16 degrees in winter is required. The plant does not tolerate drafts, just like sudden temperature changes. Optimally maintain 20-25 degrees, then Aglaonema will feel comfortable.

Humidity. The plant likes high humidity, so it needs to be sprayed every day in the summer. You also need to regularly wipe the leaves so that dust does not collect on them, but you cannot use polishing compounds.

Watering. In its natural environment, Aglaonema grows in soil that allows moisture and oxygen to pass through well and receives good watering every day. At home, the plant is watered abundantly only during the growing season, and in the cold season, watering is reduced. The earthen lump must not be overdried, and flooding in winter and autumn must also not be allowed.

Fertilizer. During active growth, fertilize 2 times a month. Mineral liquid fertilizer is well suited for this. Top dressing is stopped in winter.

Transfer. Aglaonema's growth rate is very slow, so a young plant can be replanted once a year in spring, and adults - every 3-5 years. In order for Aglaonema to give good growth of leaves, it is necessary to limit the growth of the root system to a small pot. When transplanting, one must not forget about drainage, for the plant it is very important.

The soil. The plant loves loose and light soil, which will pass water well. The mixture can be made up of leaf soil, peat bog and sand in a ratio of 2/1/1 and a little crushed charcoal. A mixture of peat, leafy soil, light turf and sand in a ratio of 1/1/1/2 is also suitable. Aglaonema will do well in hydroponics too.

Reproduction. It is difficult to propagate a plant, as it grows for a long time. Aglaonema can be propagated by cuttings, seeds and separating daughter plants. When transplanting, it will be easiest to separate well-rooted daughter shoots if they already have 3-4 leaves.

Cuttings can be made if the stem is branching or the plant is old enough for the trunk to be expressed. The upper part can be cut off as an apical cutting, and the rest can be divided into cuttings of 4-5 cm and also rooted. Leaves will soon begin to grow from the hemp. Rooting occurs in 2-3 weeks if the cuttings are kept warm. It is better to cut Aglaonema in spring or summer.

Enthusiasts can try planting seeds. They are sown in February - March in loose soil, sprinkled with water and covered with glass or film. The soil with seeds must be constantly kept moist and aired twice a day. When the seedlings grow up, they are planted one at a time in pots with a diameter of 7 cm and watered moderately. Young Aglaonems should be shaded from the sun, avoiding direct exposure, in summer they should be kept on windows facing northeast or northwest.

Diseases and pests. They suffer from pests common among domestic plants - aphids, scale insects and thrips. If the room has a high temperature and dry air, then red spider mites may be affected.

The plant must be periodically inspected in order to timely notice the pests and remove them in the usual ways.

Diseases such as gray mold and leaf spot are possible. You can get rid of them with the help of fungicidal preparations.

Aglaonema will perfectly fit into any interior, the main thing is to carefully watch that pets and children do not chew or tear off its leaves, because the plant sap can cause serious poisoning.

Geychera, landing.

Geuchera is characterized by rapid growth and a tendency to instant aging of the bush. It must be divided into the third year after planting. Heuchera grows upward, slowly getting rid of the lower leaves. An unsightly stump is formed, which eventually turns into a palm tree.

Tiarella and geyherella are not subject to stretching, therefore, in one place they can be up to 6 years old, after which they also need to be divided.

As soon as the Heuchera begins to stretch, it must be transplanted. They do this in the spring so that the Heuchera has time to start.

When landing, the bare trunk is buried. Some varieties of Heucher form stepchildren. They are separated and stuck into damp ground, covered with a half of a plastic bottle on top, that is, they are rooted like ordinary cuttings.

If the geychera is too stretched or burnt in the spring sun, its top is cut off and rooted, like the stepsons.

Heuchera, which was planted before July, takes root more readily and faster. The ground is prepared neutral, loose. No fertilizer is added to prevent the plant from aging prematurely. Geykhera planting which was cloudy weather, takes root in a new place very quickly.

The plant prefers partial shade, so the best place for it would be planting under the shade of trees, for example, in an orchard. However, too much shading leads to stretching of the plants. Heuchera planting it should be in moderate shade so that the plants are strong and bright.

Geychera, leaving.

Heuchera and her relatives are plants with hibernating leaves, so heuchera requires special care. For the winter, the leaves are not cut off, the plants try to mulch with a small layer of earth around the bushes. Geykhera loves care in the form of mulching in the middle of summer.

If the geyher varieties sit together, then a piece of non-woven material can be put on them for the winter. This will save the planting in case of a snowless winter. Most of the geyher are winter-hardy, with the exception of the "Caramel" variety.

The main danger for them is the spring sun, when the roots are in frozen ground and are unable to supply food to the leaves. Leaves, in turn, as soon as the snow has melted, begin to require nutrients, and without getting them, they burn in the sun. To prevent this, a branch of spruce branches is placed on each heuchera bush in the fall for shade, it is removed in mid-May on a rainy day. Geykhera appreciates such care and thanks it for an excellent view all summer long.

Unlike Heuchera, Miniature Tiarella and Heycherella do not burn much in the sun.

In general, heuchera requires minimal care, only needs spring shading and timely division.

Varieties of garden flowers

Garden shops and catalogs offer hundreds of types of flowers. Most often, people choose plants almost at random, based solely on their ideas about the beautiful. However, when buying garden flowers, you need to think not only about their beauty, but also about what conditions you can create for them, how often you are ready to pay attention to the flower garden when you expect flowering, and also about whether they will fit into the overall style of your estate. ...

To begin with, all garden flowers have a different lifespan - they are divided into annuals, biennials and perennials. Perennial flowers (tulips, hyacinths, irises, gladioli, dahlias, peonies, asters, primrose, delphinium) are, as a rule, the basis of the garden. Such flowers can live and bloom for several years, they are mostly unpretentious. In winter, the aboveground part of the plant dies off, but in spring new leaves and stems appear from the root. Perennials can be planted both in early spring and at the end of summer (however, in the second case of flowering, you will wait until next year).

Two-year-olds (daisies, pansies, violets, forget-me-nots) live for two years - they are sown in early summer, and next summer they bloom violently and for a long time, dying off by autumn. Most biennials bloom in spring and early summer.

Annuals (sweet peas, marigolds, zinnias, poppies, petunias, some types of asters, marigolds, cornflowers) plants delight us for just one summer, but this can also be a plus - every spring you can plant some new plants, changing the look of the garden.

Plant requirements for soil quality are also different. If the soil on your site is poor, with a significant admixture of sand, choose those garden flowers that thrive even in such harsh conditions - thyme, armeria, sand carnations, phlox, poppies, anaphalis, cornflowers, bearded iris, rejuvenated.

On alkaline (pH 7.4-9) calcareous soil such garden flowers as tulip, lavender, levkoy, edelweiss grow well.

Neutral soil with a pH of 6-7 is suitable for a very wide range of plants - lilies, anemones, evening primrose, chrysanthemums, many types of geraniums, bells, carnations, highlander bird, navel, irises and many others can be successfully grown on such soil.

Clayy acidic soil retains water well and drains poorly, such conditions are not suitable for every flower. Choose forget-me-nots, primroses, aquilegia, tulips, daylilies, peonies, perennial asters, tenacious.

Separately, it should be said about plants for wet and dry soils. If you have a dry and stony area, pay attention to carnations, fescue, sedum, daffodils, veronica - all these flowers love dryness and grow even on stony soil.

Perhaps once your site was swampy, and even now the soil here is very humid. Such soil is preferred by kupena, calamus iris, ostrich, foxglove, aconite, primrose, fragrant violet, astilba, iris smooth, tradescantia, spurge. In principle, these flowers can be planted not in waterlogged areas, but in this case they will have to be watered often and abundantly. This is suitable for those who constantly live or often visit a country house and are ready to devote time to the garden.

But elecampane, cornflowers, verbena, phlox, arabis, daffodils calmly tolerate dryness and become the best choice for those who come to the country once a week or even less often.

A very important factor is the illumination of the site. We used to think that the sun is necessary for flowers, but flowers such as hosta, incense, primrose, foxglove, phlox, garden hydrangea, heycherella, ivy, lupine, saxifrage, woodruff and violets are shade-loving and hardly survive in brightly lit areas ... But asters, delphinium, daisy, buzulnik, grayish-blue carnation, thyme, calendula, immortelle grow well in direct sunlight.

In the spring, in May, berry blossom, anemones, hyacinths, saxifrage, primroses, geraniums, crocuses, daffodils and tulips bloom. In June, they are replaced by roses, cornflower, peonies, forget-me-nots, lupines, pyrethrum, pansies, periwinkle, carnation, sweet peas, daylily, irises, calendula, levkoy, foxglove. By July, marigolds, asters, arctotis, clarkia, cornflowers, nasturtiums, and many types of phlox begin to bloom.

August is the time of chrysanthemums, some types of asters (for example, Italian asters bloom late), oriental lilies, heliopsis, gladioli, goldenrod, loosestrife, tiger lilies. Perennial asters and colchicum begin to bloom only in September. There are also flowers that bloom magnificently all summer, these include ageratum, ever-flowering begonia, dahlias, Chinese carnation, iberis, sweet peas, lilies, lobularia, calendula, lobelia, stonecrop, foxglove, salvia, petunia, amaranth, nasturtium, coleus, fragrant tobacco, lupine.

Novice gardeners prefer unpretentious varieties of garden flowers. If you are not ready to devote too much time to caring for the garden, choose perennial garden flowers: they are undemanding and bloom even among those who are poorly versed in the intricacies of gardening. Unpretentious perennials - catchment, asters, monarda, hosta, meadowsweet, sedum, lupins, geraniums.

Among the plants "for the lazy" there are many bulbous - allium, muscari, many types of tulips, crocuses and daffodils look very beautiful and will help you earn the fame of a landscape designer - and at the same time they require almost no maintenance.

Annuals such as marigolds, calendula, snapdragons and cosmos are often used in urban landscaping for a reason. They grow quietly without supervision, survive even in a metropolis and generally behave almost like weeds.

It is also important to take into account the stylistic solution of your garden - flowers that adorn a Provence-style flowerbed can bring dissonance to a strict English garden.

If naturalness and pastoralism are closer to you, choose flowers that resemble wild wild plants - cornflowers, marigolds, primroses, forget-me-nots, violets, daisies, delphinium, euonymus, medium-sized chrysanthemums, daisy, geranium, daylily and lovage. In order to achieve the effect of a "forest glade", plant flowers in islands, at random, then your garden will look as if it was not the gardener who worked on it, but Mother Nature herself.

For classic regular gardens with a strict layout, solemn luxurious flowers are more suitable - roses and lilies, shaded by phlox, verbena, irises, gypsophila and salvia.

On the rocky areas located on the slope, you can break alpine slides that imitate the alpine landscape - natural stone and islets of bright flowers and delicate grasses. For these purposes, asters, daisies, marigolds, phlox, calendula, tenacious, poppies, alpine asters, lupins and carnations are ideal.

Gardens in the English style suggest the atmosphere of an old manor - a minimum of flowers, a maximum of greenery and a carefully thought-out "neglect". This style works especially well for areas with ponds and old trees. Ferns, wormwood, sedge, cattail and hosts play a major role here. To create bright floral accents, choose delphinium, foxglove, and incense.

For a Mediterranean-style garden, herbs are almost indispensable - basil, thyme, rosemary, mint. You cannot do without lavender, as well as without calendula, irises, gladioli, zinnias, nasturtiums, dahlias. Sweet peas, ivy, clematis and other vines will decorate the wall of the house.

Top 5 unpretentious long-flowering perennial flowers for the garden

So where should a novice gardener start? Don't try to create an impressive garden in a couple of weeks that photographers from the best landscape design magazines will fight for a picture. Start small - try to create your first flower bed using the most unpretentious garden flowers, choose from the varieties you like and enjoy, and enjoy your first beautiful result.

Pion.Lush fragrant peonies are the decoration of any garden. They love sunny areas and loamy soil. A peony requires rare but thorough watering, and therefore a perennial is suitable for those who come to a country house only from time to time. The peony does not tolerate the neighborhood with other flowers, so it is better to plant it aside, leaving a piece of land around the bush for loosening. Blooms all June.

Nivyanik.He's a chamomile - charming in its simplicity, a flower that brings sunny notes to any garden. Light areas with well-drained soil are its natural habitat. Adult plants should only be watered in very dry weather. Daisies look great both on their own and in complex flower beds. Blooms from June to September.

Iris.Elegant iris grows well in sunny areas on fertile, well-drained soil, although some varieties - marsh and Siberian - can grow in very moist soil and are therefore suitable for decorating ponds. Groups of irises enliven even the simplest garden, making beautiful borders. Iris blooms in June and July.

Sedum, or sedum- a small bush with bright pink flowers and fleshy leaves. It is good even without flowers and, like many succulents, looks very impressive. Most sedum species grow on dry, poor soils, in sandy or rocky soil, and require intense lighting, but do not require frequent watering. The sedum plant looks beautiful in Mediterranean gardens and on alpine slides. Blooms from June to September.

Day-lily.It is good because it grows well and blooms in the shade - a real find for those who want to set up a flower garden in a shady garden. It is extremely unpretentious and survives on any soil. Blooms from May to July.

Matching garden flowers

When developing a flower bed plan, it is important to remember that not all flowers get along with each other. For example, lilies of the valley cannot be planted next to forget-me-nots, daffodils cannot stand the company of tulips. Lilies, daisies, cornflowers and poppies should also be planted away from each other. And flowers such as peonies, delphinium and aconite are individualists, and any neighbors survive.

In order for the flower bed to be harmonious, simple rules should be followed. If the flower garden is adjacent to the wall or fence, then tall plants (delphinium, tansy, meadowsweet, peony) are planted at the very wall, in the next row are lower garden flowers (asters, lavender, cornflowers, carnations, cornflowers, irises, geychera) and in the front on the edge - very low and creeping plants (coreopsis, geranium, feathery carnation, yarrow, stonecrop, bells, thyme).

In a free-standing flowerbed, tall garden flowers are placed in the center, lower plants are placed around, and the edge of the flowerbed is planted with dense bushes of small flowers. It is advisable not to plant flowers of the same shade next to them - they will simply get lost against each other's background, it is better to try to play with contrasts.

Try to match flowers with the same light requirements, soil composition, and watering frequency. It is for this reason that you should not plant phlox, primroses, tulips, carnations and sedum in the same flower bed - they all require different conditions and some of the plants will inevitably die.

And finally, when choosing garden flowers, do not forget about green plants that cannot boast of flowers, but have beautiful textured leaves - we are talking about a variety of spicy herbs, fescue, ryegrass, sedge, rejuvenation and other greens. It will accentuate the vibrancy of the flowers and give your garden a touch of elegance.

Gardening is a subtle art, and don't be discouraged if you don't manage to break out the flower garden of your dreams right away. Beginners can be advised to seek advice from landscape designers or order material for a finished composition in a nursery for growing seedlings - it is much easier than creating a flower garden by trial and error for several years in a row.

Watch the video: Цветы с весны до осени Прекрасная Гейхера. Сайт Садовый мир

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