Maryin root

Maryin root (Paeonia Anomala) is a species of the family of herbaceous perennials from the genus Peonies. How culture dates back to 1788. It is included in the list of the Red Data Book of the Komi River as an endangered species. Maryin root grows mainly on the territory of Siberia: on the edges, in valleys, forest glades. Has several other, less well-known names. Among them:

  • evading peony;
  • peony marin root;
  • peony unusual;
  • the peony is wrong.

Translated from Latin, "anomala" means - incorrect. The plant was named so due to the fact that in the autumn period its color does not coincide with the color of other similar ones - peonies. The wrong peony is grown for decorative and medicinal purposes. When used for medicinal purposes, they use the well-known name - "Maryin root".

Description of Mary's root

Peony Maryin root is a rhizome plant with grooved stems. The stem height reaches 2 meters. The location of the roots in the ground is horizontal. The root system is represented by a short branching brown root and powerful, sturdy tubers resembling a spindle. The root has a very aromatic, sweet white flesh on the palate.

The leaves of the plant are 30x30 cm in size (width and length), triple-dissected twice into lobes with ends pointed on both sides.

Flowers of purple and pink shades have 5 petals and many stamens. The diameter of the flower is from 10 to 12 cm. The irregular peony blooms in May-June. The fruit is from 3 to 5 leaflets. By the first half of August, black seeds are formed in them.

Growing Mary's Root

Now in more detail about how the mariin root plant is grown.

Planting Mary's root

Maryin's root is propagated in two ways: vegetatively and using seeds. If there is an adult plant on the site, reproduction is carried out by dividing the root system. Divide in such a way that each of the parts has roots and buds.

Slices must be processed, sprinkled with powdered coal, allowed to dry in the open air. After - placed in pre-prepared wells measuring 50x50x50. Two-thirds of the pit is filled with a mixture of humus, sand, earth, 20 grams of potassium salt and superphosphate are added. The remaining third is filled with nutrient soil. The surface is tamped and moistened abundantly with water. A distance of 70 cm is maintained between the planted plants. The procedure for dividing the root system and transplanting the marian root is carried out in the fall. Cloudy days or evenings when the sun is no longer so bright are favorable.

Maryin root, Part 1, Cutting

The second way is seed propagation. When using seeds collected independently, seed stratification is carried out, which includes 2 stages:

  • Stage 1: for a couple of months, the seeds are kept in wet sand, maintaining the temperature at 20 degrees;
  • Stage 2: after being in the sand, the seeds are placed in the refrigerator, for example, in a special compartment for vegetables and stored for 6 months.

Seeds stored at room temperature all year round are planted before winter. After - in the spring - they take care of the seedlings of the Mary's root for 2 years, and only after that they are planted in a permanent place of growth, observing a distance of 70-100 cm between the plants.

Well-lit areas or partial shade are great for growing marin root. The soil should be well permeable to moisture so that the water does not stagnate, and also enriched with useful substances. Organic is welcome. Depleted soils are dug up, adding either humus or compost. If the soil is acidic, slaked lime is added to neutralize the increased acidity.

In the first and second years after planting the marin root, you should not wait for the flowering of the plant. It takes time for him to gain strength before flowering. It is worth waiting and after a while - the plant will delight you with abundant, beautiful flowering. Another important condition for the flowering of the Mary's root is proper care.

Mary root care

Maryin's root is undemanding to care, growing a plant in a garden area will not be difficult even for a novice florist.


Watering should be moderate, as needed. For 1 bush, only 2 to 3 buckets of water are enough. Be sure to make sure that the water does not spread over the site, but flows as intended - to the root system. To exclude the spreading of water during watering, it is recommended to dig pipe sections around the perimeter around each bush. Watering is carried out in the pipes. In this case, there is a guarantee that all the water will go to the roots.

In rainy, humid weather, watering should be reduced. After rain and watering, the soil is loosened so that there is no compaction of the soil and the roots can receive a sufficient amount of oxygen. Weeds that appear are removed in a timely manner.

Top dressing

During the growth period, feed the marin root is carried out. Young bushes are recommended to be fertilized by the foliar method. Starting in May, plants are watered with a solution of mineral fertilizer (for example, ideal), adding liquid soap or washing powder to it, at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of mineral solution. Fertilizers are applied in the evening or in cloudy weather.

Adult bushes during the period of active development are fed, starting from mid-May, on the leaves, three times. Top dressing is applied with an interval of 21 days. The first feeding consists of a urea solution, dissolving 50 grams in 10 liters of water. The second top dressing consists of the same solution as the first, with the addition of 1 micronutrient tablet. The next fertilization is carried out with a solution of urea with the addition of 2 tablets of micronutrients.

When the plants are mature, fertilizers are applied at the root. During the season, three dressings are carried out, taking into account which substances are needed at each stage of development. So, at the very beginning of the growing season, plants need nitrogen, during the formation of buds and the beginning of flowering - calcium, nitrogen, phosphorus. At the end of summer, the plant starts laying new buds and needs phosphorus and potassium.

Top dressing is carried out as follows:

  • end of March - beginning of April - fertilizing of potassium and nitrogen is carried out. For 1 bush, 10 to 15 grams of fertilizer is enough. Even in the presence of non-melting snow, fertilizer in granules is scattered directly onto the snow. The melt water will carry the fertilizer down to the roots.
  • in late spring - early summer (May - June) root feeding is carried out with phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen, in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Sometimes it is replaced with organic matter. For example, a solution of mullein - 1:10 or bird droppings - 1:25.
  • when flowering is over, 15 grams of superphosphate and potassium are added after 14 days. For fertilization, a groove is made around the bush. After applying top dressing, the grooves are watered and sealed with soil.

Maryin root in winter

Before the onset of winter, the stems of the Mary's root are cut to the very root. Sprinkle with handfuls of ash on top. This is done when the plant is less than 3 years old. Adult shrubs live through the winter without a special shelter.

Diseases and pests of Mary's root

Maryin root has excellent immunity: the plant is resistant to diseases and pests. However, it should be borne in mind that it is prone to gray rot. And prevention won't hurt. For this, spraying with Bordeaux liquid is used. To prepare the solution, take 50 grams of liquid per 10 liters of water. Processing begins in early spring, processing newly emerged shoots. After - the procedure is carried out 2 more times with an interval of 10-12 days. The bush takes from 2 to 3 liters of liquid.

In addition to gray rot, marin root is susceptible to rust. Prevention consists of spraying with a special solution. It consists of copper oxychloride and water. For 10 liters of water, 60 grams of the substance will be needed. You can add a small amount of liquid soap. In addition, the above Bordeaux solution and colloidal sulfur, in the amount of 100 grams per 10 liters of water, is also suitable.

Collecting Mary's Root

Maryin's root does not look as decorative as many other plants, and therefore, most often, it is grown not for beauty, but for medicinal use.

To get the greatest healing effect, you need to know how to properly collect and store the mariin root plant.

How to collect

The collection of the evading peony is carried out 1 time in 5 or 6 years. Collect both the part located underground and the above-ground part. The most suitable period for harvesting is autumn. However, you can harvest the entire growing season.

To collect, you need a knife to cut off the ground part. It is necessary to correctly collect the marin root in the following way: by cutting off the ground part, and then - to get the roots. There is no need to pull out the plant, as the roots and the ground part are stored and dried separately.

The petals are also collected and dried. You need to collect when they start to fall off.

Harvesting of roots is carried out during the entire growing season. They are thoroughly cleaned, cut into strips 15 cm long and up to 3 cm wide. For drying, use a canopy or a cool semi-dark room with excellent ventilation. After that, the roots are placed in drying, where they are dried at a temperature of 60 degrees.

Leaves, stems - first dry thoroughly. After that - as far as possible - finely chop.

How to store

The dried parts of the plant are stored for no more than 3 years. At the same time, the roots are kept separate from the rest of the parts. It is important to create proper storage conditions. It is convenient to store raw materials in dark small cardboard boxes. Before use, the raw materials are checked for foreign odors.

Marin root properties: benefits and harms

Maryin root is a medicinal plant. Like every medicine, if misused, it can be harmful. It is worth paying close attention to the recommendations and rules of use for therapeutic purposes.

Medicinal properties of Mary's root

The healing qualities of the Wrong Peony have been proven over the years. It contains such useful substances as:

  • tannins,
  • ethers,
  • resin,
  • flavonoids,
  • Sahara,
  • sterols,
  • saponins,
  • acids (salicylic, gallic)

The healing effects of Maryina root on the body:

  • improved metabolism,
  • detoxification of the body;
  • elimination of the feeling of constant fatigue, stress;
  • general strengthening of the nervous system;
  • recovery from binges;

The substances found in the plant contribute to the production of a hormone known to all, which is responsible for a good mood, a feeling of happiness and even euphoria - endorphin. In addition, they are used for headaches, gastrointestinal problems, nervous disorders, asthma, etc.

Maryin root has a therapeutic effect on the female and male reproductive system. Helps even with infertility.

A tincture is made from the plant, which perfectly copes with chronic fatigue, anxiety, and bad mood.

You can also make cosmetics for cleansing the skin. For example, it perfectly fights acne and other skin inflammations.

PION ESCAPE || Useful properties and application


Maryin's root is poisonous. And this must be remembered before use. Especially when there are health problems and a person takes medicinal substances for a long time. Possible - allergic reactions, intolerance to certain substances. The use of marin root is contraindicated for everyone who suffers from high blood pressure, as well as for those who have an increased level of acid in the stomach. Forbidden for pregnant women and children under 12 years of age.

In any case, it is worthwhile to consult a doctor before using, regardless of the state of health.

Peony Maryin root is an interesting and useful plant. It is prized for its medicinal properties. The spectrum of action is wide. It can be purchased at the pharmacy, already processed, and can be collected and dried on your own. To do this, you need to know the rules on how to do it.

Features of caring for peonies in Siberia

Maryin root Siberia and the Far East are home to many species. The most valuable of them are Maryin root, steppe peony and Far Eastern white-flowered (milky-flowered), they have non-double, but bright numerous flowers that appear against the background of beautiful foliage, different in different species. They bloom earlier than garden varieties, which is important in the design in the early period, in addition, it is a good material for breeding work.

Garden forms and varieties of peony for the most part represent a herbaceous perennial rhizome plant with a height of 60 to 100 cm. The bush is large, multi-stemmed, with beautiful greenery, which has a decorative appearance until mid-September. The flowers are large, showy, can be double, semi-double and simple, with different terms and duration of flowering.

Early varieties bloom in early June, late ones - in early July. By the age of 5, the bush reaches its optimal size and has from 20 to 50 flowers and, as an exception, 150. If you select the appropriate assortment, you can have flowering peonies on the site for 40-55 days.

Steppe peony In addition, you can increase the flowering period due to agrotechnical methods: using film frames, as on strawberries, you can cause earlier flowering, and when planting on the shady side of the site and covering the bushes with sawdust (10-15 cm), it can be delayed by 10 —12 days, thereby further extending the flowering period by 15—20 days.

Peonies grow well on soil rich in organic matter with sufficient moisture, do not like transplants and develop better in one place for 10-12 years, provided good agricultural technology.

Planting peonies is best done in pits, the size of which depends on the size of the planting material (50 × 50, 60 × 60, 70 × 70 cm), add humus (8-10 kg per hole) and superphosphate (200 g), mix well with the ground , pour water into the liquefied mass and plant a "cut" of peony so that its buds are not deeper than 3-5 cm from the soil level after backfilling with earth.

Gardeners make the mistake of planting peonies in loose soil without taking into account its precipitation. In this case, the plant turns out to be buried, does not bloom, sometimes even grows poorly. To correct the error, you have to lift the bush with a pitchfork and pour it into the hole of the earth or completely transplant, violating the root system. The distance between the bushes should be 80-100 cm.

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts and the first shoots appear, they carry out the first feeding with a flower mixture (50-80 g / m2) and loosening to a depth of 3-5 cm. The second feeding is given two weeks before flowering (mullein infusion with an admixture of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers) and the third - at the end of August only with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

With a lack of moisture, abundant watering of plants is necessary during budding, flowering and at the end of August with secondary root growth. Timely watering has a beneficial effect on the overwintering of plants and their development next year. After each watering, the soil is loosened or mulched.

For larger flowers, one bud should be left on the stem. For better flowering next year, in the fall, the leaves are cut off and humus mixed with wood ash and bone meal is added under each bush. Planting peonies should be carried out separately, if they are in the shade of trees, the number of buds and their size are sharply reduced.

On older bushes, damage from a nematode (eel) is possible, which causes nodular swelling of the roots. Such plants should be dug up and burned, and the soil should be disinfected. Peony flowers can be damaged by bronze. This golden-green beetle eats away at the core of the flowers. Beetles should be collected in the morning and burned.

Often you can see ants on the buds, they are attracted by the sweet juice. The buds are sprayed with tobacco infusion, and the nearby anthill must be moved from the bush.

Peonies reproduce by dividing the bush, renewal buds, stem and root cuttings, seeds.

The division of the bush is carried out in the first half of August before the beginning of the secondary growth of roots or in early spring, as soon as the soil thaws. This is the most common breeding method for peonies. Most gardeners use it when transplanting plants to a new place. Many people believe that when transplanting, peonies do not bloom for three to four years. Meanwhile, if this operation is carried out on time and carefully (damage the roots as little as possible), the peonies will bloom the next year.

To do this, you need to know that in peonies, in addition to spring growth of roots, their increased growth occurs a second time - in the fall, from about August 20-25. Therefore, replanting and dividing roots should be carried out as soon as the soil thaws and before the beginning of the secondary growth of roots! It should be borne in mind that the root system of peonies grows depending on age up to 80 cm in depth and up to 90 cm in width.

Carefully digging in the bush with a shovel, they lift it with a garden pitchfork, trying to damage the roots as little as possible. They are washed from the ground with water from a hose and division is carried out, while you need to use a knife as little as possible, separating them in places where bridges are formed in order to inflict less wounds.

To obtain the maximum number of divisions, it is better to take 4-5-year-old bushes and divide them into four to six parts, with four to five buds, you can leave one or two buds on the division, but they begin to bloom with a delay of one or two years.

You can get peony seedlings without digging out the plant completely. To this end, the bush is cut with a shovel into two parts, one part is carefully removed from the soil and divided, as described above, and the other remains in the ground.

The cut part is sprinkled with crushed coal, the hole is covered with soil, watered with water - and the bush continues to bloom and develop. When transplanting old bushes to a new place, rejuvenating pruning is carried out, fleshy rhizomes are shortened, leaving roots 8-10 cm long near the buds of renewal.

There is another way to get peony seedlings without digging a bush. To do this, in the first half of August (before the onset of secondary growth), the bush is carefully unpacked, part of the renewal buds with a piece of rhizome is separated from it and planted in cold nurseries at a distance of 10 × 10 cm, covered with a film, rooting occurs on the fortieth day. Then the film is removed and covered with a sheet pillow for the winter. In the spring, plants are transplanted to school or to a permanent place. Such plants bloom in the third or fourth year of life.

The method of reproduction by layering is also built on the principle of preserving the bush. A wooden box 25-30 cm high is placed on a peony bush in the spring. As the bush grows, the buds are covered with loose earth or humus, gradually filling the box. Shoots grow and bloom normally (somewhat lagging in comparison with free-growing bushes). Roots are formed at their base. In the fall, the box is removed and the rooted stems are cut off, transplanted to a permanent place. Such plants begin to bloom in the fourth or fifth year.

Very old plants

Although peonies can grow in one place for up to 20 years, like all living things, they gradually age. At the same time, the root system becomes very crowded, the leaves stretch out, and the flower buds become small or do not tie at all.

Quite often, due to the gradual destruction of the main root, the plant itself disintegrated into several bushes. If such a plant is not planted in a timely manner and the decayed part of the root is not removed, then it will consist of a large number of weak shoots that will never bloom. That is why it is recommended to transplant and divide the bushes through

Maryin root: joy for the eye, help for the body

The evading peony, or Maryin's root, can still be seen in the glades and edges of the taiga forests of the Urals and Siberia. The beauty of its flowers and roots, which have long been famous for their healing properties, led to the fact that in nature this species of peony became rare and was listed in the Red Book. This plant was saved from complete extinction by its exceptional frost resistance and unpretentiousness, thanks to which today it is quite often found in amateur gardens.

It is a large perennial herb with petiolate, heavily dissected bare leaves, and has a short branched rhizome. Maryin root blooms profusely in late May for 8-10 days. The flowers are large, purple-pink, usually growing one at the top of the stem. The whole plant is very decorative.

Since ancient times, the root of this plant has been considered miraculous. Pieces of such roots were worn as amulet beads, capable of expelling evil spirits, obsessions, and soothing convulsions. The generic name itself is derived from the Greek word "paionios" - which means "healing, healing". According to one of the legends, the origin of the generic name of the plant came from the name of the doctor Pean, a student of the god of medical art - Asclepius. Doctors of Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome, China and the countries of the Arab East revered the roots of the evading peony as one of the most curative means of nature.

The roots of the evading peony contain carbohydrates, organic acids, essential oils, triterpenoids, steroids, vitamin C, aromatic compounds, phenol carboxylic acids, tannins and flavonoids. The aerial part contains tannins and vitamin C, flavonoids, alkaloids, fatty oil and a significant amount of microelements.

The harvesting of raw materials for the aboveground part of the plant is carried out during the flowering period in June. When harvesting the above-ground part, it must be cut off, but in no case torn off, in order to avoid damage to the renewal buds.

The plant has a powerful brownish-brown rhizome with the most powerful medicinal properties. The roots can be harvested at any time, but it is better to do this in the fall during the period of wilting of the aerial part of the plant. The roots cleaned from the ground are washed with water, dried first in the attic, and then in a dryer at a temperature of 35-40 ° C. The dried roots have a strong peculiar smell and a sweet-burning astringent taste, for which this plant is popularly called Zhgun-root or Zhgun-herb.

In folk medicine, decoction of the roots is used for stomach ulcers, gastritis, colitis, gynecological diseases, bronchitis and colds. In Tibetan medicine, it is used for various gastric diseases, epilepsy and other nervous diseases. And in China, it is part of the anti-cancer training camp. It was found that the plant has anesthetic and bactericidal action. The above-ground part can also be used for the same purposes, but its effect is weaker.

With neurasthenia, insomnia, neuroses of the cardiovascular system and other nervous diseases, 10% alcohol tinctures of the roots are used.

To prepare a decoction of marin root, pour 1 teaspoon of dry crushed roots with 3 cups of hot water, boil in a water bath for 35-40 minutes, leave for 20 minutes, drain. Take 1 tbsp. spoon 3 times a day 10-15 minutes before meals.

To prepare an alcoholic tincture from the whole plant, it is necessary to mix the dried aboveground and underground parts of the plant in equal proportions and 1 tbsp. add a spoonful of the crushed mixture to 1 glass of 70% alcohol. Insist in a dark place for 10-12 days, drain. Take 30 drops 3-4 times a day for insomnia and neurasthenic conditions.

Preparations from Maryin root give a positive effect in the treatment of oncological diseases. According to popular belief, for these purposes, rhizomes must be collected in the month of May on the growing moon.

ATTENTION: Maryin's root is poisonous! Therefore, when preparing decoctions and infusions from it at home, it is necessary to very accurately observe the dosage and use them only under the supervision of the attending physician.

Maryin's root is also used in cooking. In Siberia, its rhizomes are added as a seasoning to meat, and in Kazakhstan - in porridge. It is also used in the preparation of the famous soft drink "Baikal". Roasted roots are brewed like tea.

The evading peony is unpretentious and durable, tolerates light shading well. And the methods of caring for him are almost the same as those of varietal peonies. Therefore, every gardener is able to grow this healing, edible and beautiful plant on his site.

Based on the materials of the newspaper "Ural gardener" No. 34, 2008

Maryin root - gardening

How do plants exist in nature? They do not grow chaotically in a forest, meadow or swamp, but form certain communities, or so-called ecological groupings. The principle of their survival is due to the fact that this group of plants requires similar living conditions - moisture, light, quantity and quality of soil. The selected conditions in a given location are usually not suitable for all plants. Those that are "in the subject" feel great. The "superfluous" ones either drop out, or keeping them alive requires a lot of effort from us. For example, daffodils under an apple tree grow beautifully into a carpet, but a peony or a rose under a birch will never feel "at ease".
Therefore, when creating a composition, it is advisable to take into account the "principle of sociality" of the plants that we want to plant nearby.
Also in nature, these groups often form next to a large tree.

It is not only a tree that can become the center of a natural plant grouping. Large shrubs, a clump of cereals, even a group of stones - all this forms certain conditions around itself, which can be quite different from conditions in other parts of the garden. For example, near large stones, temperature changes, both seasonal and even daily, become sharper. And under the wall of a wooden house, especially on the south side or under the protection of large dense bushes, the microclimate softens - more thermophilic species can survive here.
Let's take a look at this topic - what and under what trees can be planted so that later all your life you will not be engaged in the “survival” of the planted material.

Under evergreen conifers, light conditions hardly change throughout the year. Under some conifers, such as the FIR, the deep shadow is further enhanced by the dryness of the soil. In addition, there is a dense layer of needles and an acidic reaction of the soil. Therefore, as far as spruce is concerned, sometimes it is so difficult to find beautiful flowers here that it is best to abandon this idea and use beautiful stones and driftwood.

There is much more light and water under the crown of the PINE. Therefore, it will be an ideal location for heathers, rhododendrons and some species of lilies. They all value good soil ventilation. It is only necessary to take into account that pine actively drains the soil, therefore, frequent watering is necessary in summer, but on the contrary, during autumn rains or spring floods, this is a plus.
Also, under the pine tree, the peony Maryin root will feel very well.

When planting plants near a pine that require organic-rich soil, do not plant close to the trunk, from such soil the root collar of the pine can rot. For the same reason, you should not mulch the near-trunk zone with humus, only coniferous litter is permissible. But along the periphery of the crown projection, on the contrary, it is useful to add organic matter, the pine will respond with active growth, lush branching and bright color of the needles.

It is good to plant light-loving heathers and erica under small conifers.
Under large conifers, you can also plant - orchids (lyubka, orchis, shoes), lingonberries, common heather, Erica, marsh rosemary, narrow-leaved blueberries, marsh myrtle, white-leaved white-leaved.

Fruit trees, especially modern early-growing varieties on low-growing rootstocks, have a well-developed superficial root system. Therefore, it is better to plant here spring-flowering plants that do not require frequent uprooting and planting: daffodils, kandyks, spring anemones, corydalis, Greig's, Foster's and Kaufman's tulips.
In the summer, let there be ground cover grasses - they will retain moisture, and the fruits that have fallen will be easy to collect. Moreover, in the fall, fallen leaves and rotting fruits are usually removed under the crowns, since they serve as a source of infection. Therefore, it will be bad here for perennials with juicy underground organs, lilies, peonies and irises, their roots react to any infection.
It is better not to plant shrubs under the fruit trees at all - they will prevent you from digging up the near-trunk circle (if, of course, you are going to do this).

Broad-leaved - "patrons" of ephemeroids, early flowering plants that spend most of the year underground and wake up only for a few weeks in the spring, while it is still light under the crowns. In addition, the root system of these trees is relatively deep, which makes it possible to weed and replant herbaceous plants under the maple, elm and linden.
Here you can plant daffodils, corydalis, Pushkinia, Chionodoxa, Galanthus, Scylla.
Also, ordinary bulbous plants that require annual digging are not prohibited here.
Summer here comes the time of large shade-tolerant forest plants - bells, aconites, buzulniks. Under the dense crowns, optimal humidity is maintained, especially if the fallen leaves have not been removed, which creates a layer of natural organic mulch and forms a natural microclimate.
It will be good for such large-sized owners as Rogers, Kupena and Lunar.
Of the shrubs, black elderberry, hazel, honeysuckle, those that require fertile soil are good.

There are some minor cons to consider. For example, because of the beautiful colored foliage that fell in autumn, plants that also turn bright colors in autumn will not look good here.
Also, the fallen leaves of some species have features that are not very pleasant for other plants. For example, oak foliage is rich in tannins, rotting slowly - this can interfere with the growth of ground cover grasses. And the carpet of fallen aspen leaves is so tightly packed during the winter that it can hinder the growth of other plants and the flow of air into the soil.

Birch, like pine, is able to extract water and nutrition from the poorest soil. Unlike pine, it is easier to tolerate soil compaction and oxygen depletion. Therefore, pampered garden plants usually cannot compete with birch, although we often want to plant flowers against the background of its white trunks.
Bells, dicenter, acidantera look great here.
There can be three options for solving the problem:
- constant soil enrichment and increased watering of the flower garden, to which the birch roots have access,
-container culture either
- selection of plants that are less demanding on soil fertility and moisture: perennial carnations, drought-resistant cereals.
Birch grows very quickly in a fertilized place. This, of course, is beautiful, but you must understand whether you are ready to make sacrifices for the sake of a white-barrel beauty!

Of the shrubs, spireas, euonymus, broom, chubushnik are compatible with birch - they are relatively drought-resistant.

-When preparing the soil under trees with a deep root system (oak, linden, maple), the soil can be dug up and freed from roots and weeds.

-Under a spruce, willow, cherry, where there are many superficially located roots, deep digging is undesirable. It is especially important not to disturb the roots of conifers. In this case, the weeds can be removed with a roundup or by closing the trunk circle for the whole season with an opaque material, although, for example, this will not save you from sleepiness, only roundup helps from it.

-Since weeding under these trees will be difficult, in the future, prepare to possibly mulch the plantings annually.


SPRING FLOWERING - May lily of the valley, common primrose, spring primrose, European swimsuit, Asian swimsuit, liverwort.
SUMMER BEAUTIFUL - wrestler, aconite, toothed buzulnik, Przewalski's buzulnik, astilbe, broad-leaved bell.
FANS - ostrich, male duckweed, female kochedyzhnik.
SOIL-COVERING - yellow zelenchuk, ivy budra, European hoof, small periwinkle, creeping tenacious.

And of course, you can do container gardening under any trees.

All about peony on

• I want to plant Maryin root seeds in the garden, how long will I have to wait for its flowering?> Read>

• Why didn't peonies bloom? There is enough moisture. Grow in the open. Could this be the result of an incorrect ratio of components in the spring mineral dressing? > read>

• Can you please tell me how to save a tree-like peony until spring? I bought a packaged plant in the store: a closed root system (a little soil in a cellophane bag), a dried stem peeps out. > read>

• I have a problem with the peony leaves, they are curling. How to cure plants? > read>

• Every year, peony bushes give less and less flowers. Planted for a long time. When is a bush considered old and needs to be divided and planted? > read>

• Herbaceous peonies:
1) the edges of the leaves curl, become, as it were, scalloped
2) the plants look healthy outwardly, but the buds dry out at the very beginning of their development. > read>

• I wanted to buy a tree-like peony, but I was told that in the Urals it will not overwinter, it will freeze out. Is it so? > read>

• For two years in a row in spring, when the peonies start to grow and buds begin to set, the trunks of the peonies begin to turn brown and die off - as a result, a small number of flowers bloom. Advise what to do? > read>

• Please tell me how to properly propagate tree peonies by seeds? > read>

Natalia shares her experience:
- Peonies have always grown in our garden. In order to get huge caps, during the budding period, we water them with urea diluted in a ratio of 1:10 with water.

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Features of growing on the site

Prepare your landing site. Peony loves well-lit and drained soil. Both clay and humus are suitable. If the groundwater comes close, you can arrange a high bed or lay a drainage groove, since the root does not grow in the marshy area of ​​Maryin. With insufficient lighting, you cannot count on lush flowering.

The plant propagates in different ways: by seeds, layering, dividing bushes, cuttings, a piece of root. Seeds grow slowly, when sown in spring, seedlings will appear only next year, so it is easier to propagate the plant vegetatively. If planted with roots, then half of the seedlings are already blooming next year. The best time for a transplant is August-September. Prepare planting pits at intervals of 60-70 cm. Fill them with the prepared mixture: 15 kg of organic matter, 200 g of superphosphate, 100 g of lime and 150 g of potassium fertilizer. The rest of the pit is filled with soil. After planting and watering, cover the ground with peat. The kidneys must be mulched.

When the first shoots appear, it is necessary to fertilize with complex fertilizers, which are usually embedded in the soil and mulched. If there is not enough moisture in the soil, until autumn they water 10 liters every week under each bush. Maryin root responds well to feeding with boron and manganese. Potassium permanganate and boric acid should be taken on the tip of a knife. Water is added until the solution is pale pink. When the first buds appear, you need to feed the plant with a mullein. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizer can be added to the infusion. In autumn, the aboveground part is cut off, leaving shoots up to 10 cm at the root. Fertilize with humus and wood ash, mulch with sawdust.

By the end of the first season, the seedlings will have one full leaf, a bud and a thickened root. The next year, in August, the seedlings should be transplanted at intervals of 50 cm. The flowering peony has a powerful root system. Thanks to its early flowering, decorators appreciate the evading peony. Place it in mixborders or in the form of single plantings on the lawn. The leaves of Maryin root retain their decorative effect until late autumn.

The evading peony perfectly combines decorative and healing properties: a lush bush with beautiful carved leaves, bright variegated flowers will decorate any flower garden. It is used in cosmetology, cooking, veterinary medicine. But most often - as a medicinal plant. When choosing your method of treatment, check your option with your doctor.

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