Crocus - an early spring flower, so most of the varieties of this plant need to be planted in the ground before winter, that is, in the fall, in September-October. If you want to get blooming crocuses next spring, you should get crocus corms in the summer.
But there are also autumn varieties of crocuses, they bloom in August-September. Their bulbs should be planted in the summer (July-August). Such crocuses are more whimsical and need careful care, weeding and watering. Therefore, they are less popular than early flowering ones.
In recent years, it has become very fashionable to grow flowering plants in flowerpots for a specific date, to congratulate, for example, a birthday person or present a bouquet in a pot for Valentine's Day or March 8th. Growing crocuses by date is not difficult at all.
Crocus corms are located in the soil close to each other, since they are small in size, and the flowers look richer in dense groups. But keep in mind that corms are growing by children, so the optimal distance between them is 3-5 cm. Planting crocuses in large groups makes it possible to get a charming flowering meadow-flower bed, which decorates a plot or garden in spring. After wilting, annuals can be sown in the place of crocuses.
The planting depth of crocuses depends on the size of the corms. Small ones are buried by 4-5 cm, and for large corms, a hole 10-12 cm deep will be required. Do not immerse them too deeply: crocuses have retracting roots, which, after the plants wilt, pull the corms deeper into the ground.
The area where you will plant crocus flowers should be well-lit and drained. A good outflow of water is especially important, because its stagnation leads to the fact that the bulbs get sick and rot.
Therefore, a site with light sandy loam soil is most suitable. If it is too dense, scatter coarse sand on the surface of the soil in an even layer and dig up the area - this way you will improve the condition of the soil.
The soil is fertilized in advance, for which compost or mineral fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus, but not nitrogen, are added to it, since nitrogen is harmful to crocuses.
It is very important that crocuses do not have a lack of light, so choose an open area that is not shaded by trees. Crocuses do not bloom well in the shade and can wither right in the buds.
It will be nice if, on the leeward side, the site is somehow protected from draft and wind, otherwise delicate flowers tend to bend from strong gusts, losing petals.
The process of forcing crocus corms in pots takes about 3.5 months or 15 weeks, so if you want to get crocuses for the New Year, they are planted in mid-September, and if for Valentine's Day, then in early October. And for a gift by March 8, crocuses should be planted around November 15.
Before planting for distillation, the corms must be kept in the cold. That is, you can buy crocus bulbs in the summer and then store them for 1 week at a normal summer temperature (30-35 ° C), then 2 weeks in a colder room, and until August 10 in a cellar or basement at a temperature of 17 ° C. And then until planting - in the refrigerator at a temperature of 9 ° C.
Then the crocus bulbs need to be planted in a pot with a lot of drainage. When forcing, the bulb is the plant's only source of nutrition. Sand is used as a soil for forcing.
Corms in pots are placed very tightly to each other, because they, like in a garden, will not grow and form children. In addition, the dense planting of bulbs in flowerpots gives a beautiful, dense, rich bouquet, which is not a shame to present for any holiday.
Sections: Garden plants Perennials Herbaceous Blooming Bulbous flowers Plants on K Iris (Iris)
Pelargonium, more commonly known to you as geranium, grows in many people in a potted version, but few people know that plants in this family are also suitable for outdoor use. Pelargonium, due to its medicinal and aesthetic qualities, is loved not only by many gardeners, but also by people engaged in landscape design. Therefore, I propose to take a closer look at this beautiful flower.
Pelargonium can be grown not only in pots, but also outdoors
Pelargonium, which came to us from southern Africa, is perhaps the most common pot plant. However, she successfully took root not only on the window, but also in the garden. With good care, pelargonium blooms all summer. Increasingly, the eyes of landscape designers turn towards this flower, and there are several reasons for this: the possibility of planting in forms, relatively simple care and a bright addition to any flower arrangement.
Pelargonium belongs to the Geranium family and can be a subshrub or herbaceous plant. It is cultivated as a perennial. Its flowers are varied in color, collected in umbrellas or shields. Some varieties are distinguished by huge round terry "caps" of flowers. Pelargonium comes with straight, branched or creeping stems, it has very beautiful, decorative leaves.
Pelargoniums are very diverse in color of flowers and height of bushes
The soil for gladioli is prepared in the fall. The best soils for them are black earth, light loamy and sandy loam. Heavy clay soils, peaty and clean sandy, often found in garden plots, require improvement. Sand is added to peat, peat is added to sandy soil, sand and peat are added to clayey soil.
For gladioli, soil with a slightly acidic reaction of the medium is preferable - pH 5.5-6.5. Therefore, before planting corms, soil analysis is done. To do this, at four to five points of the site, a glass of soil is taken and submitted for analysis to an agrochemical laboratory. It is best to do the analysis in the spring. According to his results, the florist can establish not only the acidity of the soil, but also the amount of microelements in it. With high acidity, quicklime or chalk is added to the soil at the rate of 100-200 g per 1 m².
The soil under the gladioli is dug to the depth of the root system - 45-50 cm. All weeds are selected at the same time. If possible, legumes are planted in the area designated for these flowers in the previous year. This will improve the structure of the soil and scare away the worst enemy of gladioli - the wireworm.
Gnawing at the leaves, the pest destroys plants, especially the baby, spreads bacteria that cause scab and fungal spores. The organic debris left unselected during digging contributes to the spread of scab. Bacteria and parasitic fungi settle in them, as well as in the manure introduced into the soil.
Since autumn, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to the soil. Their number is calculated based on the results of soil analysis and the selected plant nutrition system (see the corresponding section). Since it is difficult for novice growers to analyze the soil, it is possible to add nitrophosphate to it at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq. m. Chernozem soil in the fall with fertilizers can not be filled.
To simplify maintenance work, ridges with a width of 1-1.2 m of arbitrary length are prepared. So that when watering the water does not drain from the ridges, they can be edged around the perimeter with boards, slate, plastic, stone tiles. In the spring, they dig up the soil again on one bayonet of the shovel and select the remaining weeds. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied for digging, for example, urea - 15 g per 1 m.
Crocus care is simple. They need to be watered only if the winter was snowless and the spring was without rains. The height of the crocuses depends on the amount of moisture received, but in general they are quite drought-resistant. The soil on the site must be loosened and freed from weeds. During active growth, crocuses need additional feeding, and the use of fresh organic matter is unacceptable. But crocuses love mineral fertilizers, but they mostly require phosphorus and potassium, but an excess of nitrogen fertilizers in wet weather can provoke fungal diseases. For the first time, complex mineral fertilizers at the rate of 30-40 g per m² are applied in early spring in the snow, the second top dressing, with a reduced dose of nitrogen, is carried out during flowering.
After the foliage on spring-blooming crocuses turns yellow, you can forget about them until autumn, unless, of course, the time has come to dig their bulbs out of the ground. Autumn flowering varieties will remind you of themselves when their flowers open in September.
It is not necessary to dig up crocus bulbs every year for the winter, but once every three to four years in the middle of summer, when the crocuses have a dormant period, it is necessary to do this, because over such a long period of time, the mother corm increases greatly due to the many daughter bulbs, which every year, in depending on the species and variety, it grows from one to ten. The bulbs begin to interfere with each other, and from this the crocus flowers become smaller.
The bulbs are planted once every three to five years, but if you need planting material, you can dig, divide and transplant crocus bulbs more often. Bulbs of autumn-flowering crocuses, again, depending on the species and variety, are dug up from June to August, bulbs of spring-flowering ones - from July to September. The bulbs extracted from the ground are dried, defective scales, dead roots are removed from them, diseased bulbs are discarded, and mechanical damage is treated with crushed coal or ash. Before landing in the ground, they are stored in a cool and dry place.
The annual cycle of spring-blooming crocus begins with the regrowth of leaves in late winter or early spring. Their dormant period begins closer to mid-June. In autumn, crocuses become active again, begin to grow roots and accumulate food. At the same time, the process of formation of the renewal bud is completed. That is why it is very important to keep the crocus leaves intact during the dormant period. The digging of spring flowering plants, like their planting, is carried out during the dormant period, that is, from mid-June to the end of summer.
The cycle of an autumn-flowering crocus usually begins in August with flowering, during which leaves grow and a replacement corm is formed. And their dormant period begins a month earlier than that of spring-flowering ones. Therefore, it is necessary to dig up the bulbs of crocuses blooming in autumn, if such a need is ripe, from early June to mid-August.
When the flowers fade, the stalks can be cut off, but the green crocus bushes will decorate your garden for a long time until the leaves turn yellow and fade. Once the leaves have dried naturally, the spring-flowering bulbs can be dug up and dried to be planted again in September. However, as already mentioned, it is not necessary to dig up crocus bulbs every year. If you planted them no earlier than three years ago, and soil is still visible between the crocus bushes, just cover the area with crocuses for the winter with a thick layer of peat or dry leaves.
As already mentioned, all begonias are extremely heat-loving plants. If you plan to grow them as a horticultural crop, you should pay attention to the local climate. Tubers cannot be planted right away on a flower bed - first they should be germinated in the house. Then the bushes need to be gradually accustomed to the outdoor temperature. To do this, pots with young begonias from the beginning of May begin to be taken out on the veranda for a day. If there is a glazed balcony, you can leave them there at night.
It is better to plant begonias in the soil towards the end of May, when the nights are already warm too.
Also, plants can be simply put on the terrace or in the garden along with a flowerpot, or you can simply dig it in the garden bed. This option will reduce the number of transplants to a minimum and injure the roots less.
Many bulbous plants are best planted in September-October, but sometimes it is worth planting as late as possible. Recall that if you live in a hot climate, then most of the bulbs can be planted before winter. Also, they plant late tulips , which often sprout during cold weather and freeze. Ornamental garlic and allium need to be planted only in November ... Too late to plant hyacinths For disembarkation they love temperature air about eight degrees Celsius. The rest of the bulbous plants are recommended to be planted in October, and some varieties even earlier.
Blueberry is a low and highly branched berry shrub from the heather family. It easily and unpretentiously tolerates winter frosts; blueberries can be found beyond the Arctic Circle. In the wild, it grows in mixed or coniferous forests, most often in the latter. Some pine forests are so overgrown with blueberry bushes that they are called so: blueberry pine forests.
In general, this neighborhood is not accidental. Like pine, blueberries thrive on acidic soils with close groundwater. It is also a shade-loving shrub, so it should be planted under the canopy of trees that can provide constant partial shade under them.
Before planting blueberries, it is necessary to prepare in advance the area where it will grow in the future. Usually, garden soil is not acidic enough, so premature planting of blueberry bushes in unprepared soil can lead to yellowing of the leaves, stunted development and even death of the plant. For successful cultivation, pits 150x150 cm in size and 60 cm deep each are prepared for each bush. The excavated soil from the pits is mixed with peat chips (in a 2: 1 ratio) to further acidify the soil, add powdered sulfur. Also, if possible, you can add kitchen cleaners and oak leaves, and river sand in heavy soils. Such preparation is carried out in advance, the main thing is that the prepared soil settles in the pits before planting. For example, if you planned to plant blueberry bushes in October, the soil must be prepared no later than September.
Blueberries are planted in spring or autumn; bushes planted in the autumn period, from October to early November, take root best. The best option for planting would be two- or three-year-old bushes with a lump of earth on the roots. The root ball must be wet before planting: bushes planted with dry roots, in most cases, do not take root and die. Before planting, in the soil prepared before, we dig a depression for the size of the root ball, where we plant the bush. During planting, we loosen the soil on the root ball and carefully straighten the roots. Then we fill the hole, compact the soil around the planted bush with our feet and water it abundantly. If possible, we mulch the ground at the planting site; as mulch, you can take fallen leaves, sawdust or peat. If you are replanting old bushes (over 3 years old), after planting, you need to prune the branches to a height of 20 cm - this will help the bush to settle down better in a new place.
Propagate blueberries by seeds or by dividing the bush.
Propagation of blueberries by seeds
First you need to get blueberry seeds.To do this, knead the ripe berries and mix the resulting gruel with plenty of water. After mixing, empty seeds and remnants of berries float up, which we drain together with water. We do this until the water is clear. As a result, at the bottom of the vessel, we will have seeds suitable for planting. They (after drying a little before that) and plant them in pots or boxes filled with peat. Seedlings will hatch in a few weeks. For the winter, it is better to transfer containers with seedlings to a bright room in which a temperature of 5-10 ºС is maintained. In spring, blueberry seedlings dive and then grow. Seedlings are planted in a permanent place only the next year.
Reproduction of blueberries by dividing the bush
When propagating by dividing the bush in the fall, the mother plant is dug up and divided into partial bushes, it is desirable that up to 5 intact buds remain on each of them. Planting in the ground is the same as for 2- or 3-year-old bushes.
Regular pruning of blueberries is necessary from 3-4 years of age. Damaged, dried out or diseased branches are removed first. Ideally, each bush should consist of 6-8 healthy branches, which will make up the skeleton of the bush.
In order for the plant to give healthy and strong shoots, we cut the old branches (over 4 years old) to a height of 20 cm. If the bush has given many lateral shoots with buds, they must be completely cut out. The berries on them are small and ripen late.
Bushes over 15 years old must also be fully pruned to a height of 20 cm above the ground. This will rejuvenate the shrub and help maintain its yield.
The best time to prune blueberry bushes is early spring, as long as there is no frost. Although pruning can be done during the entire growing season of blueberries, late pruning (especially when the blueberries are in bloom) will reduce yields.
Watering blueberries is necessary regular, but not plentiful. The main thing is that the soil under the bushes remains moist. Excessive moisture can lead to diseases of the bushes (for example, root rot).
To have a better harvest, blueberry bushes must be fed with both organic and mineral fertilizers. Organic fertilizers, such as compost, manure or peat chips, are applied under the bushes every 3 years at 3-4 kg per sq. m. Superphosphate, potassium magnesium and ammonium superphosphate are used as mineral fertilizers. If the acidity of the soil is low, again it is advisable to add powdered sulfur (50-60 g for each bush annually). But with high-quality mulching with sawdust of the soil under the bushes, this can not be done - such mulch itself well regulates the reaction of the soil.
You can pick blueberries from mid-June to early September. The fruits ripen unevenly, so they are harvested several times, every 5-10 days. For collection, blue-purple, black berries are chosen. They will become ripe in 7-8 days after they change color. It is these berries that are the most juicy, sweet and fragrant. In order not to damage the berries during picking, they are not cut off, but slightly rotated, while grasping with the thumb and forefinger. The harvested crop at zero temperature can be stored for up to 6 weeks.
To preserve blueberries as long as possible (not in the form of jams and compotes and without the help of a freezer :)), there is another proven storage method. For this, a glass container is taken, which is calcined in the oven for several hours. These bottles are filled with blueberries, carefully cleaned of various debris and leaves. Then we cork the bottles and fill them with wax. In cool and dark rooms, the berries in such bottles will remain for a very long period of time.
The common blueberry has no divisions into varieties; they have not been involved in special cultivation of this plant. They say that in our forests you can find the form of blueberries with white fruits, but we did not come across such a plant. Well, this wonderful plant looks like this:
Common blueberries at the time of flowering:
Many people want to grow blueberries in their area, therefore, gardeners buy seedlings in the market or in nurseries. But blueberry seedlings are rarely found on sale, usually varietal blueberries are sold instead (these plants even have the same generic name - Vaccinium). You can distinguish blueberries from blueberries as follows: