Syngonium: home care, reproduction, transplant, photo


Syngonium is related to philodendrons, therefore people endow this plant with muzhegonny properties. Feng Shui experts recommend keeping a protective amulet in the house where syngonium grows.
However, those who do not pay attention to such superstitions and live by their own minds, see in the syngonium only an attractive evergreen vine.

  • What types and varieties of syngonium are most popular in indoor culture?
  • In what conditions should syngonium be kept?
  • How should you care for a plant during a period of active growth, and how does winter care for a plant differ?
  • How does syngonium multiply?

You will find answers to all questions about the syngonium in our article.

Planting and caring for the syngonium

  • Bloom: grown as an ornamental deciduous plant.
  • Lighting: bright diffused light or partial shade (western or eastern windowsills).
  • Temperature: in summer - 20-22 ˚C, in winter - 18-20 ˚C.
  • Watering: abundant. The top layer of the substrate should dry out between waterings.
  • Air humidity: higher than usual. It is recommended to spray the leaves with water in summer and wipe them with a damp sponge, and in winter it is advisable to keep the plant pot away from heating devices on a pallet with wet pebbles.
  • Top dressing: from April to September, once every 2-3 weeks, with a solution of mineral fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants with a low calcium content. During the rest of the year, feeding is not carried out.
  • Garter, pinching, shaping: regularly.
  • Rest period: from about October to February.
  • Transfer: in spring, at the beginning of active growth. Young plants are transplanted annually, mature - once every 2-3 years.
  • Reproduction: apical cuttings, less often seeds.
  • Pests: aphids, thrips, scale insects.
  • Diseases: stem rot, root rot.

Read more about growing syngonium below.

Plant syngonium (lat.Syngonium) belongs to the genus of evergreen perennials of the Aroid family, growing in the tropical forests of South and Central America. "Syn" in Latin means united, "gone" - ovule. Liana syngonium is the closest relative of philodendrons, also a semi-epiphyte, but somewhat more graceful in outline. More than thirty species of this plant are found in nature, but the indoor flower syngonium is represented by only two or three species.

Botanical description

Syngonium flowers are herbaceous climbing plants with thin stems, on which aerial roots develop, clinging to any support. The leaves of young syngoniums are whole, arrow-shaped, their color is much brighter than that of old ones, in which, moreover, the leaf blade becomes dissected over time into several segments - from 3 to 7. Flower growers are attracted not only by the graceful shape, but also by the color of the syngonium leaves - plain or variegated, with silvery strokes, strokes, stains. The background of the leaves is also varied - from bright green to almost white. The flowers of the syngonium, like all Aroids, are a green ear with a pinkish or red bracts in the form of a veil, but the syngonium does not bloom at home.

The milky juice of the syngonium is poisonous, like the juice of all Aroids; when it gets on the mucous membrane, it causes irritation, so readers often have a question whether it is possible to keep the syngonium at home. If you place the plant in the kitchen, in a place that is hard to reach for children and animals, then there will be no trouble. You can keep the syngonium in an office or bedroom, the doors to which must always be closed.

Syngonium care at home

Growing conditions

Syngonium care is simple and easy. It is better to place it in partial shade or on the western or eastern window sills, although the houseplant syngonium also withstands bright diffused light well - if only direct sunlight does not fall on it, from which its leaves fade. In winter, the syngonium flower needs more light than in summer - at this time, due to insufficient lighting, its leaves become small and colorless. The most comfortable temperature for a plant in summer is 20-22 ºC, while in winter the temperature in the room where syngonium grows should not fall below 16 ºC.

The air humidity of the syngonium is higher than usual, so in the summer its leaves need to be sprayed or washed with warm, settled water using a soft sponge, and in winter it is better to keep the plant pot away from operating heating batteries or put it on a pallet with damp pebbles, but so that the bottom is not stood in the water.

It is necessary to water the syngonium abundantly, using settled water at room temperature, not forgetting to drain its excess from the pan. The top layer of the substrate should dry out between waterings. In winter, watering is reduced, unless the syngonium hibernates in a too warm room with dry air.

In addition, the syngonium needs shaping, but before pinching the syngonium, think about what shape you would like to give it. You can grow it as an ampelous plant, or you can, by planting several shoots in one pot, form a bush. And if you use a support in the form of a tube, you can grow this vine like a tree. However, every spring it is necessary to remove the low-quality growth of last year, and to heighten the branching, young plants are pinched over the sixth leaf.


From April to September, the syngonium needs to be fed with liquid mineral fertilizers for decorative deciduous plants with a low calcium content approximately once every two to three weeks. In winter, the plant does not need feeding.


Caring for an indoor syngonium involves a timely plant transplant. Young vines are transplanted every spring, and those that are older - after two or three years, when the roots appear from the drain hole of the pot. Syngonium soil needs loose, water and air permeable, neutral or slightly acidic reaction - pH 6-7. Here is an approximate composition that would be suitable for growing syngonium: one part of sod, leafy land, peat and sand.

If you want to grow a tree-shaped syngonium, place a drainage layer in a new syngonium pot before transferring the plant, install and secure the support. Then pour a third of the soil volume to the bottom, then move the syngonium into the pot, straightening all the roots, and then gradually add the required amount of soil in a circle, tamping it slightly. Do not forget to water the syngonium after transplanting and do not fertilize it for 2-3 weeks.

Pests and diseases

Of insects, aphids, thrips and scale insects are dangerous for syngonium. As a result of the vital activity of these pests, the plant loses its decorative effect - the leaves of the syngonium turn yellow, deform, dry and fall off, and the plant itself slows down or even stops growing. To combat insects, spraying syngonium with solutions of drugs such as fitoverm, actellic or decis in the ratio indicated in the instructions is used.

But the syngonium turns yellow not only from the attack of insects, sometimes it happens from a lack of nutrients in the soil, this is also evidenced by the appearance of too small and discolored leaves. If the tips of the leaves darken and dry in syngonium, after which the leaves fall off, this is a signal that the air in the room is too dry. And when you get carried away with hydrating the syngonium, the leaves of the plant become dull and dull. Leaves also fade when the plant lacks light.

Reproduction of syngonium

If you are at a loss as to how to grow syngonium - by seeds or vegetatively, then it reproduces by apical cuttings with two or three nodes or a part of the shoot, on which there must be at least one eye (bud). Cuttings are rooted either in water with the addition of one tablet of activated carbon, or in sand, or in vermiculite, in sphagnum or in a mixture of sand with peat or sand with sphagnum. The apical cuttings planted for rooting, as well as the parts of the shoot laid horizontally on the ground, are placed under transparent polyethylene and kept in a warm place with a temperature of 25-27 ºC. When the cuttings take root, they are planted in pots one at a time or several in one, so that the plant grows as a bush.

Types and varieties

Syngonium podophyllum, or leg-leaved (Syngonium podophyllum)

Originally from Central America, it is an intensively branching vine with a thin stem. It served as the basis for the breeding of many wonderful varieties of indoor syngonium. Its young leaves on a long petiole are dark green in color, arrow-shaped; in adulthood, they become repeatedly dissected. The annual growth is 45-60 cm.


  • Pixie - dwarf variegated syngonium;
  • Arrow - widespread variegated, unpretentious in care, rapidly growing form;
  • White butterfly - large-leaved fast-growing cultivar up to one and a half meters tall, undemanding, reproduces at any time of the year.

Syngonium auricular, or auricular (Syngonium auritum)

Climbing liana, with stems 2-2.5 cm thick and with aerial roots formed in internodes. It grows up to 180 cm, and in a year it can give an increase of 70-90 cm.Leaves are shiny, green, with a plate shape that changes over time: from a young age the leaves are arrow-shaped, then three or five times dissected with two small ear-shaped segments at the base, on a petiole long 30-40 cm.

Syngonium wendlandii

A species native to Costa Rica, a corn-growing vine with tripartite green leaves with a velvety surface. With its decorative qualities it surpasses even the best cultivars of the podophyllum syngonium.

Syngonium macrophyllum

A unique plant from Ecuador and Mexico. It is a little like other types of syngonium, but belonging to the genus gives out the milky sap of the plant. It is a large liana with rounded, dull-green leaves pointed to the top, with veins clearly visible on the underside of the plate, on long petioles covered with a waxy bloom. Fast-growing, unpretentious, drought-resistant species. Unfortunately, it is not very well known in the culture yet.


  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the Aroid family
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Indoor Plants Information
  6. Information about Vines

Sections: Indoor plants Ornamental-deciduous Aroid (Aronnikovye) Variegated plants Indoor lianas Plants on C

Reproduction of syngonium in room conditions, transplantation and possible difficulties

How to get and root cuttings correctly? When is it necessary to transplant, and what difficulties can an amateur florist face in growing syngonium?

Even a beginner can grow syngonium. This houseplant is not only one of the most beautiful decorative deciduous vines, but also one of the easiest to use.

Syngonium is difficult, if not impossible, to grow from seeds. At home, the plant can be propagated by cuttings and pieces of the shoot. In an adult plant, it is recommended to cut off the upper part of the crown annually in spring. The cut off shoots are planted in the soil, and the mother plant throws out lateral shoots, making the plant lush.

If the bush syngonium is propagated by pieces of the shoot, then on each process there should be at least 2-3 buds (nodules). It is recommended to root such outgrowths in a mixture of peat and sand, vermiculite or plain sand with the addition of finely ground activated carbon. After rooting, young shoots should be transplanted into a separate pot for each.

For the formation of the crown and the correct growth of the liana, the young plant must be pinched over the 6th leaf of the liana. Pinching is done once, 1-2 years after planting.

Main conclusions

Friends, the anthurium flower, planting and caring for which at home requires special attention, cannot be called too simple a plant, so I will not recommend it for novice florists.

Flowering species require bright diffused light, a warm room, high humidity, a special light substrate, top dressing and very careful watering. This flower is not for forgetful and frivolous flower growers - mistakes in care will immediately affect its appearance.

But if you are ready to satisfy all his requirements, then he will grow beautifully, bloom and delight you. That's it for today. Natalya was with you.

Is “male happiness” growing for you? Do you like this flower? I look forward to your comments!

If you liked the article, share it with your friends! What if they also want to grow a beautiful anthurium?

Transplant and preparation for it

Once you've got Ripsalidopsis, give it some attention. It is worth starting with a plant transplant. This requires a new pot, wide and low, with large holes for water drainage. The roots of the epiphyte cactus do not take up much space, and they need a constant flow of air. The land in which the plants are kept in the store is no good. Prepare a new substrate. Rhipsalidopsis prefers slightly acidic, not very fertile, rough and crumbly soil:

  • special soil for growing succulents and cacti
  • sheet, sod land, sand, charcoal or broken brick, coconut fiber (4: 4: 2: 1)
  • clay-sod land, charcoal, small brick chips (5: 1: 1)
  • leafy soil, peat, perlite, chopped sphagnum moss (3: 2: 2: 1).

Drainage is required in any case. Disinfect the soil before planting the plant. If you made the mixture yourself, increase its acidity. For 3-4 liters of soil, add a teaspoon of crushed chalk and superphosphate.

The soil in which Ripsalidopsis grew in the store is absolutely not suitable for the development of the plant.

Young Ripsalidopsis requires a transplant every year, this should be done after flowering, in May. Cacti older than four years old are less disturbed, about once every three years. Large specimens in one pot can live up to five years.

When choosing a container for transplanting, give preference not to a deeper, but to a wider new pot. If the roots of Ripsalidopsis have grown significantly, then approximately double its volume.

  1. Pour drainage at the bottom of the new pot - expanded clay or broken brick. Above - a little prepared substrate.
  2. Gently remove the hrypsalidopsis from the pot, shake off the soil (but do not rinse).
  3. Transfer the plant to a new container, distribute the roots and sprinkle with fresh substrate. Remember: Ripsalidopsis has a superficial root system, it does not need to be deeply buried.
  4. Slightly compact the ground with your hands. Do not overdo it, the cactus loves loose soil at the roots.
  5. After transplanting, water the plant, provide it with high humidity, especially carefully protect it from direct sun for 7-10 days.

In nature, there are 60 species of this plant. Most of them are able to grow only in natural conditions, but some were able to get comfortable in ordinary apartments:

  1. ... This species is characterized by narrow cylindrical shoots, the diameter of which is 2 cm, and their length is 6 cm. The color of the stems is dark green with white blotches.
  2. ... The cactus consists of very thin and lush branches that tend to curl. Ripsalis shoots hang from the pots, and by the end of autumn they delight the eye with abundant flowering.
  3. ... Shoots of this species are shaped like a bottle. When the plant is still young, its stems are directed upwards, but as they grow, they drop and hang down. One lash can grow up to a meter.The stem is 3 mm thick and one segment is 5 cm long.
  4. (empty). Light green cactus. One branch can be 3 m long. The shares are also quite large - from 10 to 50 cm. Small white flowers appear at the extreme points of the shoots.
  5. ... This species is distinguished by massive shoots, a large number of areoles, which are covered with long yellow villi. The flowering period occurs 2-3 times a year. The flowers are yellow, there are long stamens inside, so the flower seems to be more fluffy.
  6. ... It has stems from 1 meter to two, the segments are flat and covered with areoles with a small nap. During flowering, this cactus releases buds on the sides of the lobes. The flowers themselves are yellow.
  7. ... This variety produces several trunks, which can grow up to 15 cm. On their tops, prism-shaped segments with the number of edges from 3 to 5. The flowers of this cactus are white.
  8. ... It contains main branches that extend from the center of the bush and grow up to 10 cm. Side short segments extend from them - up to 1 cm. They form branches. Several new segments can grow from the tips of one branch.


Syngonium can be kept as a separate growing plant in a small container. It is often used in hanging baskets and sometimes as a cascading or groundcover plant. Some varieties look great on supports. Small specimens - in mini-gardens in bowls in combination with other types of plants. Syngoniums will also look good in various compositions with larger plants such as dieffenbachia, monstera and philodendrons, which require similar care.

Photo: Natalia Semenova, Rita Brilliantova

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