I believed the advice and planted the garlic in two tiers - I'm telling you what happened


I always planted garlic as usual, until my sister boasted last summer that she had harvested twice as much as before. She shared the secret with me too. It turns out that garlic can be planted and grown in 2 tiers. The first tier of cloves is planted to a depth of 10-13 cm, and the second - 5-7 cm.

I also wanted to try a new way.

I was attracted by the opportunity to get a double harvest from a small planting area, which I have allocated for garlic. I planted it at the end of October and the result was disappointing. Only part of the crops rose in the spring. The rest was probably frozen. In summer, garlic did not grow so well, especially the lower tier. The one that grew up turned out to be small. I suppose there was not enough power and the ground was too hard.

At first I was upset.

Then I wondered why it happened. I analyzed the mistakes and decided to try again. Now I was better prepared: I discussed it with my sister and consulted with knowledgeable people. Hopefully everything works out as it should. First you need to choose the correct boarding time. Winter varieties are planted in autumn - in September-October. Until persistent cold weather, so that the roots of garlic have time to develop enough. But not too early: the soil temperature should not be higher than 10-12 ° C. Spring varieties are planted in spring. I will plant again in the fall.

The place should be sunny enough: because of the lack of light, the bulbs grow poorly and turn out to be small. I'm fine with that.

I want to make the soil looser and more fertile than I had. I'll add humus. It must be borne in mind: fresh manure cannot be used. I will cover the bottom of each hole with fertile soil, plus I will add phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. I will make the planting step at least 10 cm from each other: it will not be crowded and it will be more convenient to weed the weeds. After planting, I will mulch the beds with straw, dry grass. Sawdust, foliage will do. Now my garlic should not freeze. Plus in the spring, when the snow melts, the mulch will provide the seedlings with moisture for a long time.It should be borne in mind that if the garlic is planted in 2 tiers, then 2 times more nutrients will have to be added to the soil. After planting, after 2 weeks, you can add a solution of poultry manure or horse manure, and after another 2 weeks repeat it. The third time winter garlic should be fed in June: phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or ash.

Watering in dry time is required at least once every 5 days.

I really hope to get a decent harvest next summer. By the way, garlic planted in 2 tiers of a hole above the hole does not have to be dug out during collection. You can simply pull out two stems at once - the lower and the upper one, and then separate them by hand.


How can you make money in the garden

- Mom, you said that the antennae are like children! Why are we trimming them now. - I almost cried - my mother held a garden shears in her hand and deftly cut a bush of garden strawberries. In our family, her name was Victoria.

On a plot of six acres of our garden, I spent most of my time. How could it be otherwise? The youngest in the family could not leave me alone for a long time in a city apartment. The older brothers ran away about their business, the father was often busy at work, and if not at work, then he wanted to go fishing. So it turned out that most of the time in the garden we were alone with my mother. I studied life here. Using the Victoria bush as an example, my mother explained to me that in life you always have to sacrifice something, you have to pay for everything in order to achieve the goal.

- We want the berries to grow next year too? Look, I'm not cleaning everything, two antennae, the strongest I leave. See? They have already grown to the land. In the spring we will transplant them and we will have a new bed with young bushes. Day after day I learned the science of gardening. And these childhood lessons have forever been imprinted on my memory.

Mom taught me to distinguish carrots from other curly grass. The weed had to be pulled out. And I coped with this already at a very young age. Later I learned how to cut currant and gooseberry bushes. I looked closely at how my father conjured over the apple trees. It is in the warm edges of the apple trees that grow to the top, and ours must creep along the ground, otherwise they will freeze.

I took trips to the nearby cattle with great joy. It was a lot of fun running between the trees and looking for cow cakes.
- Mum! come here! there is such a big turd! - I shouted with delight, not experiencing absolutely no disgust. Mom praised me, and I rushed to find the next one. The buckets gradually filled up and we walked back to the garden. I was growing up and already took a bucket with me. I knew that cow cakes diluted in water would be used as fertilizer for Victoria and cucumbers. I already knew that they like it, but they don't like tomatoes.

I knew that cucumbers love warm and humid air. They are watered frequently and directly onto the leaves. And tomatoes do not like humid air and wet leaves, too. They need to be watered rarely, but there is a lot and only the ground under them.

In those days of my childhood, we needed our garden as a breadwinner. The hard work of my parents, especially my mother, gave results. In winter we had jam, compotes and a pit in the basement was filled with potatoes.

There is a special conversation about potatoes! It was she who was the basis of our daily menu.
- There are potatoes! Let's live! - said the parents, satisfied with the good harvest.

Mom taught me how to work in the garden. She passed on her knowledge to me. But more importantly, she gave me her love for plants. Oh, how useful it was to me in life!

Yes, somewhere in heaven our path was written and determined long ago. But we just do not know what is there, beyond the next turn of life. I had to live in different places. And if there was a piece of land next to the house, I diligently cultivated it. This was not always necessary, but what I grew up was always helpful. My daughter repeated my course of study with her grandmother in the garden. And she was a good helper to me.

In the nineties, when the salary was not given for months, and the money was really needed, the land rescued us again. I think this wonderful joyful feeling is familiar to all passionate gardeners. Go out into the garden on a sunny morning, run through it, look into the greenhouse, see that at night yesterday's flower has turned into a tiny cucumber, that the radish can already be picked, and if you add more greens, then even make the first salad.


That if you can't even figure out what to cook for lunch, your garden will help you. So I plucked a leaf of cabbage, you can always find one that you can pick without damaging the plant. Here the carrot grows thickly - very by the way, I'll pull out a few things. Of course, it's also difficult to call it a carrot, but nothing. The same is with beets, several of them grow from one seed, and in order for a large one to grow, you need to leave one, pick the beet too. Polka dots, the pods are still quite flat, a couple, the other disappears into my pocket. So what else? Of course the greens! Green onions and parsley and more dill!

Leaf of celery and basil. Well, we have last year's potatoes. I collected everything and washed it. I crumbled carrots and beets right with the leaves and the spring soup is ready! Add sour cream! Well, I don’t know about the fingers, but you’ll lick the spoon. And you will be happy! I cooked soup out of nothing, but so delicious!

Feeds, pleases the earth. Feels love and care and responds in kind.
And in those nineties, we were without money. I was haunted by the thought, I wanted to make money somehow. But how? We worked hard, the garden was large. From morning to evening, one name that I'm on vacation. But it didn't work out. With the profit, the desired one did not work. They planted a lot of potatoes, and then fed them to cattle. Enterprising people traveled to the villages, buying potatoes, but at such a low price, then we will not have enough to feed our animals. And we still needed money. Dress children, dress themselves. Well, everyone knows that.

I understood what needed to be offered for sale, what they would be happy to buy. What will be in demand at the moment. What we will have and no one else will. I thought for a long time, the question is not simple. You can't grow pineapples in the Urals. And again she stopped at potatoes. Yes, everyone has potatoes. But! I have to raise her before anyone else. You can get good money for fresh potatoes in early summer. Then these were dreams and ideas. But I have implemented them and now I will tell you how.

I will not talk about the timing. Everyone can decide for himself when, depending on the climate of the area where he lives. We still have snow in the Urals in April. So, you need to start preparing your site even when there is snow. I walked along the perimeter of the proposed site. Trampled a square in the snow. My task was for the snow to melt in this area as quickly as possible. I did not begin to throw off the snow from the site. The earth needs moisture. But to turn it around with a shovel, to turn it over. So it will melt faster. From that day on, we scattered the ashes from the stove on my experimental site. The ash reserves that we had were also sent here. This action served two purposes. Firstly, the snow on the site darkened and began to melt more intensively. Secondly, wood ash is an excellent mineral fertilizer. I knew that from my mother.

When the snow melted and the ground was a little dry, I mapped out the rows. I needed to make my site look striped. Imagine a hilled area where your potatoes grow. This is how it should look like. Slide - groove - slide - groove. Rows. At first, the land is not yet completely thawed, it will not work to build this at once. But gradually the scallops will grow.
Next stage. Manure is laid out in the grooves in rows. You can first a thin layer of straw. The ground at the bottom of the groove hasn't thawed yet, it's solid, but that's okay. Straw and manure will not allow the potatoes to freeze, they will lie like on a warm bed. If you have humus and you do not mind sprinkling it on manure, add earth.
What did you do? Scallops, grooves between them, in the grooves of the bed for potatoes. You can start planting!

Of course, choose early varieties of potatoes for planting. I always cut potatoes, a piece with a peephole is enough. The main thing is that the potatoes are sprouted. Tubers laid out in the light in a cool room will produce good, strong, green sprouts.

Carefully, with love, lay out the potatoes, do not damage the sprouts! Sprinkle with earth from the neighboring hills.

It's all done! If you have a covering material that protects from the cold. Perfectly! I didn't have it, but it worked too.

You yourself will be interested in what's next. And you will walk and watch every day. But even if someone is not very interested, you need to do it! Especially when the seedlings start to appear! With the emergence of seedlings, another work begins! Green sprouts must be constantly sprinkled with earth. Take the land from the hills. Gradually, your area is leveled.
No more frost threat. You can breathe easy. Further, the care of your potatoes with accelerators is normal. Loosen, huddle as needed. Gradually, ridges of huddled potatoes form in place of the former grooves. Conversely, in place of the ridges of the groove. Weeds, with this method of cultivation, usually almost never happen. It is understandable how many times it was necessary to shake up the land.

Potatoes grow very quickly. And when seedlings only appear in ordinary areas. You are already harvesting on your experienced one.

Why faster? Why are growing times reduced? Well, first of all, you planted before everyone else, that's understandable. A layer of straw and manure warms up and the sprouts take root quickly. When using a covering material, the task is somewhat easier. I needed to constantly watch so that the seedlings did not freeze. Stay tuned for the weather forecast and watch out for frost! Even if they do not completely destroy the plant, the harvest time will probably be postponed.
Sprinkling soil over the sprouts repeatedly prevents the soil from crusting over. Your potatoes are warm, they breathe, they grow without weeds! It does not need to be fertilized, you have already done that.

A few more tips. Don't make the site very large! Calculate your strength. A lot of work. The distance between the rows of potatoes should be no less, even slightly more, than with a normal planting. Straw and manure will raise the planting level, and you should have enough land from the ridges for leveling the plot and for hilling potatoes. Give it a place. Love your pets. After harvesting, this place can be used again. Even in the Urals twice a season!

The price for such potatoes is much higher. It is sold not in buckets but in kilograms. Of course there is a lot of work and not everyone wants to mess with it. I'm just saying that it was a way for me to make money.

And yet, not a very pleasant moment. It is quite possible that you will be called speculators and resellers. This must be experienced. I was reassured by the thought that I had grown potatoes so early that people did not even believe the possibility of such a miracle.

And that means you have something to be proud of! I wish you success!

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How will it look like?

- Mom, you said that the antennae are like children! Why are we trimming them now. - I almost cried - my mother held a garden shears in her hand and deftly cut a bush of garden strawberries. In our family, her name was Victoria.
On a plot of six acres of our garden, I spent most of my time. How could it be otherwise? The youngest in the family could not leave me alone for a long time in a city apartment.
Read the article


Garden beds, greenhouse, "mausoleums"

We cross the threshold of the gate of Larisa's house - we are met by the dog Peach and the youngest daughter of Gribaleva Alena. The hostess immediately comes down and smiles, asks not to be shy and invites you to inspect the garden and vegetable garden. We approach the part of the house where Larisa's parents live. It was here that the beds were laid out.

- This is where the vegetable garden begins. This is kartocha. But our greenhouse - here is now a salad and cucumbers. Before that there was a bow, but we have already collected it all. But in general, our vegetables do not grow for harvesting, but for eating.

Larisa says that they also grow garlic, parsley, beets, zucchini, carrots, strawberries, strawberries, as well as red and yellow raspberries. There are also gladioli.

- We only harvest berries from ours: currants and strawberries. We still have a lot of blueberries, we love and eat them. But it is so difficult to make it take root and survive. This bush is the very first. I bought it, brought it, planted it. It has taken root and has already grown. Well, just a beautiful bush!

And we have already picked the strawberries this morning. Larissa calls the beds with sides on which it grows "mausoleums". She spied them on the Internet.

- They are already so old, they could be faked. When we change the seedlings, we will remake the beds themselves a little, there is already not enough land in them. Sprinkle grass under the strawberry bushes, take it from the lawn mower. Our mother reads this and knows what is good for plants. One of the varieties of strawberries "Malinka" is called. Very good, delicious variety! The berry is sweet-sweet, ripens a little later than other varieties.


A UNIQUE WAY OF PLANTING GARLIC for the winter!

The beginning of autumn 2018 - the beginning of September turned out to be very warm and, it would seem, many will ask themselves the question of how to plant garlic? When it is more than 20 degrees Celsius outside during the day - this is somehow not typical, not trivial, no one does it, now it is too early to do it. However, according to long-term observations, the optimal timing for planting winter garlic is - forty days before the onset of the first frost... If we count forty days from today's date, then we will get to about the middle of October, and this is exactly the time when the first frosts are observed in Belarus, often in the temperate zone.Therefore, this first decade of September cannot be considered too early for planting garlic. During the time that the garlic is in the ground - before frost, before the temperatures drop and it stops growing, it should grow a root system, about 10-15 centimeters. This is quite a lot, because it is such a root system that will provide a good overwintering, early growth, good development of the root system during the spring of next year and, as a result, getting large, good bulbs and a rich harvest. therefore you shouldn't be late with planting garlic... Of course, these terms can be quite extended due to the fact that the weather can bring surprises. There are experiments when garlic was planted even in November and December, of course the harvest was obtained, but the size of the bulbs and the volume of the harvest did not inspire any joy. These experiments were in order to preserve the planting material of the variety, so as not to lose it, but still get at least some amount of the crop. But we want to get a huge harvest of healthy plants, useful plants that will delight us next year with their harvest, so we will start planting garlic now.

In our previous installments, we talked about how important it is to prepare the chives before sowing, which I did. I have cloves of garlic pre-pickled in a phytosporin solution, according to my recipe, and there are other recipes that also turned out to be quite effective. I have not thrown them anywhere, and I will use them all for planting. Now we will make a bed, dig holes and plant garlic.

Before you start planting garlic, you need to properly prepare the garden... For all onion crops - onions, garlic and varieties of garlic - elephant garlic and so on, it is very important to provide the soil with sufficient potassium and phosphorus. Potassium is one of the key nutrients for winter garlic when applied in the fall... Why? Because it is potassium that determines the cold resistance of not only garlic plants, but also many other plants. Therefore, a sufficient supply of potassium will provide us with a good overwintering. Phosphorus dressing will allow us to get sugar-rich bulbs - this is good for the future harvest and for the future seed harvest. Because it is the content of sugars in those bulbs and cloves that we plant and will determine its high degree of winter hardiness. Therefore, the introduction of phosphorus is absolutely necessary, and I contribute ammoniated superphosphate... Why am I adding ammoniated? After all, nitrogen - in fact, in the autumn period of development of garlic, it does not need it at all; for the growth of the root system, it will use the nutrients previously accumulated in the bulb itself. The thing is that after I plant my garlic, I sow cruciferous siderates on top - mustard and oil radish. Why am I doing this? I do this in order to fully ensure the looseness of the soil and its good moisture permeability, because garlic does not tolerate stagnant moisture at all.

Besides that, I I will plant garlic to a considerable depth... Why? Because I will plant it in two tiers, and the lower tier will be at a considerable depth. And in order for the bulbs to grow well and be large, good soil aeration is necessary. On my site, it is not so difficult to achieve good aeration of the soil, because I have light, sandy loam soils, and a small layer of dark, black, well-decomposed peat has been brought in from above. Therefore, the aeration and moisture capacity of the soil is very good here. I have another problem here more often - a lack of moisture during the summer. But I know that in many of our subscribers' sites, the soils can be quite heavy. In this regard, when planting garlic, it is necessary to make it in the area of ​​the bottom of the bulb - a small sand pillow or a pillow made of light compost or other materials. It is very good to add such familiar zeolite filler or other zeolite-containing materials to the wells for planting garlic. Zeolite is an excellent source of silicon for garlic, and garlic is highly dependent on silicon. In addition, this material is gradually crushed in the soil, making it looser, more breathable and aerated, which is very good for the growth of garlic.

Let's remember how the root system of garlic is arranged in all onion crops. Plants of the amaryllis family - tulips, daffodils and many others - have the same root system. The root system of garlic is rather superficial, it is fibrous, practically does not branch - straight, rather fragile roots emerge from the bottom. Therefore, when we have such a compacted soil from below, the bulbs in the process of growing, on these roots, can rise slightly. In this regard, the planting depth of our cloves or bulbs is reduced - the bulbs are pushed out by the roots and tend to the surface. This phenomenon is very well known to those who are engaged in forcing tulips by March 8, this is generally a common story. That is why, on dense soils, it is very good make a sand pillow below.

The second reason this is good is to provide a well aerated layer. The most important thing is to ensure good, starting penetration of the roots before they gain very good strength, they begin to punch this dense soil on their own, and so that the bulb does not come to the surface. How to fill the onion? There are two strategies. The first and most common strategy implies that the bulb must also be covered with light soil on heavy soils in order for moisture to penetrate there, so that it does not stagnate there, and so on. This is a rather odd strategy, although it does provide aeration to the bulb. After all, firstly, the process that I spoke about will take place - the bulb, the clove will rise to the soil surface, because the soil is light on top. Secondly, moisture will very easily penetrate from above and because of this, it will fall like a glass slightly filled with sand from below and in no way, this light soil in the hole area will not save the bulb from being in the water. In order to make normal drainage in such a situation, it is necessary to make an entire irrigation or reclamation system to remove moisture from this bed. In this regard, the most rational is - on the one hand, to make a sand cushion, and on the other hand, to cover the bulb with heavier soil. At the beginning of the process, when the roots begin to push the bulb upward, the denser layer of clay soil that you have on the site will prevent this bulb from climbing to the surface and will provide a good overwintering at a normal planting depth. And the growth of roots will go mainly downward - into the soil for nutrients and water. In addition, a layer of compacted soil will not allow excess moisture to penetrate there - inside, like into a glass, into this hole with sand - moisture will simply roll off the surface, drain along the relief, along the slope of your site. Thus, the bulb will be in the most favorable conditions. But do not forget to add loosening materials at the root, at the bottom of this hole.

It is very important when fertilizing the garden, before planting the bulbs, remember that Garlic absolutely does not tolerate an excess of chlorine, it does not like chlorine ions in general. Therefore, we are against the use of table salt on the site for some kind of spraying and for something else. Because this chlorine accumulates there and the introduction of chlorine fertilizers also does not contribute to the good growth of garlic. On the contrary, garlic, like other onion crops, like cruciferous plants - cabbage, radish, radish and others, is very sensitive to a lack of sulfur. After all, these pungent substances that cause lacrimation from onions and garlic and rare oils, they all contain sulfur in their composition. Therefore, these plants are very sensitive to sulfur deficiency. In this regard, potassium sulfate is an ideal fertilizer for feeding garlic, to be added to the main dressing of the soil.

There are several strategies for backyard farming... The first strategy is traditional, it involves a shovel or a cultivator and, to a greater or lesser depth, digging the site. The second strategy is to maintain subsidiary agriculture without digging. In this case, it is quite difficult to apply fertilizer evenly over the entire surface of the garden bed planned for planting garlic. The hole application does not allow the application of high doses of fertilizers due to the fact that garlic, like onions, does not tolerate high mineral concentrations, and it does not tolerate organic matter at all. In this regard, the choice of the predecessor is very important - you should not plant garlic in those beds where manure was introduced in the spring, even rotted. An excess of non-mineralized organic matter harms garlic, leads to the formation of small heads and the development of diseases. It is necessary to select such agricultural plants for which organic fertilizers were not applied in the current year, in spring, and organic fertilizers were applied in the previous period. Or, if your soils are sandy, sandy loam, rather poor in organic matter, when filling the ridges with some kind of organic matter, you must give preference to very well decomposed, crumbly compost, in which there are no longer any visible, organic particles, which has already lain for a long time time.

It is very good to shed humate beds and holes in the autumn period. They are not such classic fertilizers, they are rather growth regulators and have a very good and beneficial effect on the soil microflora and on the normal overwintering of winter garlic. Therefore, the introduction of this liquid - a solution of humates, is very, very favorable before planting. The phosphorus, which we will add to these ridges, will no longer act on this garlic this year. But after having spent the winter and dissolving a little by the spring, it will begin to be available to plants during the next season. For those who do not practice digging, it will be necessary to increase the amount and variety of garlic dressings.

The next strategy that I would like to talk about is whether to plant garlic in empty beds or plant it in ridges with planted green manure. I have both experiences. I planted garlic in empty beds, in green manure and in planting beans. When the harvest has already been harvested, there are only bushes of asparagus beans, there are practically no beans, why not poke the garlic between them. I do not like this strategy, I like to plant in clean ridges, and then sow siderates on top. The first decade of September still allows green manure to develop, to gain sufficient green mass in order to cover the soil surface with a sufficient layer of this green mass after frost. It will then dry out and form a pillow, which will also help the garlic overwinter well. In addition, after planting the garlic, after the first frosts come, I will definitely do a powerful mulching. Literally at such a height, not sparing straw, the straw will still lie down anyway, and maybe I will add it before the first snow. Because, nevertheless, the success of growing garlic in frosty conditions entirely depends on how well we insulated the garden.

Anticipating some opinions regarding the risks that garlic can vegetate too long, germinate, even green sprouts may appear. Firstly, in order for green sprouts to appear, garlic will need at least a month or two in the conditions in which we will now place it. Second, even if a green sprout appears above the soil surface, this is not at all scary, in a mild winter this sprout can even overwinter, and in a harsh winter - even if it freezes, there will be no serious, negative impact on the subsequent growth and development of plants ... A well-developed root system will fully restore this green aboveground mass and grow beautiful and large heads.

In order to protect the teeth from the encroachment of various soil pests, I use two methods of protection. The first is preliminary deposit Metarizine... The Metarisium fungus is a fairly serious parasite for many insects and their larvae; it has no negative effect on earthworms, it does not have any negative effect on the beneficial soil biota. Therefore, it is necessary for a week or two before planting the garlic, shed the ridges properly with Metarizin in accordance with the instructions. Second, when landing, I also put tobacco dust on the bottom of the hole. Tobacco dust will scare away and disorient not only soil pests, insects and their larvae, but also the nematode. Unfortunately, onion crops are very strongly affected by the nematode, and if the nematode is a problem in your area, in this case you need to use not only tobacco dust, but also mustard cake or mustard powder, which should be applied in sufficiently large doses - about one tablespoon under every tooth. You can plant these teeth directly on tobacco dust, on mustard powder, or on a mixture of both. Or make a small mixture with zeolites, with soil and pour this mixture with compost directly into the hole, form a light, lightweight pillow from it, you can also add sand to loosen this soil.

Now I am starting to plant the garlic. We will plant it and subsequently observe how it grows and develops. So, we proceed to planting garlic - I will dig holes with such a spatula. There are different ways - you can dig a long furrow with a plow, you can use such a pipe on denser soils or a special bulb planter that makes a flat and such a smooth hole. But, unfortunately, my soil is loose enough, so this method is not suitable for me. I will plant the first tier of bulbs to a depth of about fifteen centimeters, the height of this metal part is just that. Accordingly, I am digging such a hole here, I got it even deeper, but it's okay. I put a small amount of tobacco dust here, I already have a ridge prepared for all fertilizers. Next, I take a pre-prepared chive and easily place it in the hole. Why am I stacking it easily? You cannot press it there for the same reason, so as not to damage the bottom and in order not to compact the soil under this clove. I will plant the lower tier at this level, and the upper tier - with a slight offset so that the bulbs do not end up one above the other and the stem that starts growing out of the ground does not rest against one of the bulbs, so some offset must be made. I fall asleep this onion and plant the next onion at a distance, about 4-6 centimeters from the top of the clove itself, to the surface of the earth and also fall asleep. About ten centimeters away, I dig the next hole and do the same. When the work is already organized on the stream, I will plant this bed in a rather short time. I take a clove - I fall asleep, plant the second one with a slight offset and close it. There is one small secret here - the secret is that in the lower tier I plant varieties of non-shooting winter garlic or spring garlic, and in the upper tier I plant varieties that have already been tested, with good winter hardiness. Even if the bulb freezes in the lower tier, for some reason does not come out in the spring and die, then I will have a guaranteed planting density in this bed and a guaranteed harvest.And if the winter turns out to be mild enough, and the lower bulb grows, in this case, I will get a double harvest from this area, which will be enough for me, my friends and my family for the entire period until the next harvest. The matter of planting garlic is not tricky, but still, there are some nuances that need to be taken into account.

Let's now see how to organize this on a bed on which no digging of soil has taken place, where green manure is planted. Look, on this bed I have siderates, I have marigolds growing here, and mustard has been sown here, which has already shown real leaves in places. Firstly, it is immediately clear that it is not possible to apply fertilizer under these plants evenly over the entire garden bed in sufficient quantities. And the hole fertilization for garlic, as I have already said, is difficult - it does not tolerate high concentrations of fertilizers, especially in the holes, especially when in contact with the roots at the germination stage - this is the first. Second, it is quite difficult to organize a normal rhythm, a normal distance between the bulbs - these plants simply interfere. When I start digging here, digging up and planting here some materials for feeding and the onions themselves, then I will still damage these green manure, dig them up here - and this is absolutely useless, I'd rather plant all the garlic here and sow it on top, or oil radish, or mustard.

As for the predecessors, after which the garlic is planted, here it is necessary to focus on common diseases. It is believed that most vegetable crops are not good precursors for garlic. Neither tomatoes, nor cabbage, nor potatoes are good predecessors. I traditionally plant garlic in the beds after growing legumes - legumes are the ideal precursor. In addition to the fact that these crops are asparagus beans, asparagus and sugar peas and others, they should be obligatory plants in every vegetable garden. Therefore, there is always a place where it is good to plant garlic - namely, under these plants. In addition, peas and asparagus beans end their fruiting early enough, so there are sufficient resources in order to timely prepare a bed for planting garlic. Legumes leave behind a significant amount of nitrogen in the soil. In order for this amount to be even greater, it is necessary not to pull out leguminous plants - peas, beans or something else with the root and with the aboveground mass, not to send it to compost, but to grind it with a shovel and dig in simultaneously with the introduction of Metarizin and fertilizers - superphosphate and potassium sulfate. In the future, this will provide the soil with nitrogen even better, without the introduction of any additional fertilizers.

If you are not at all an adherent of the application of chemical fertilizers, in this case, when planting garlic, it is necessary to use such microbiological fertilizers as "Azotovit" or "Phosphatovit". They contain nitrogen-fixing and phosphate-mobilizing bacteria. In order for these bacteria to thrive, you need a sufficient supply of energy sources in the soil. The source of energy for these bacteria is organic matter, but as I said, garlic itself does not well tolerate high doses of organic matter in the soil, which can be added there with dung or manure. What to do, how to be, how to maintain these beneficial bacteria in the soil? For this, simultaneously with the spilling of the hole with humic preparations, it is necessary to add an energy source there, which at the same time does not contain nitrogen and which will not disrupt the normal development of garlic in this autumn-winter period. Such a source of such a nitrogenous carbohydrate-free can be ordinary sugar or starch. To do this, you need to dilute two tablespoons of sugar in one bucket of water and a glass in each hole, add garlic when planting. In addition, you can boil a paste from two tablespoons of starch and a liter of water, which is then diluted in a bucket of water and also added. Best of all - not flour, but pure starch paste and also spill some soil with it. This will improve the development of microbes, the beneficial microbes in the soil, which will provide phosphorus and nitrogen to your plants.


Garden season 2020 - I plant it for the first time in the South, in the Krasnodar Territory - I summarize (mistakes when planting and planning a garden)

In general, I was pleased with the garden season. Something worked out. something - no. I want to summarize and briefly write about my mistakes.

A little preface: we moved at the very end of February. I was a gardener even before that, I did not have much experience. She helped her mother-in-law with planting and caring for plants in the suburbs, but she independently gardened for four years on the poor sandy Ryazan lands of the swampy Meshchera. And on them - fertilize, improve the soil, but still everything goes into the sand. You can bring a car of manure, peat, collect pine and deciduous litter, collect land after a flood near the river - but you will hold out for the season, and next year, as if nothing had improved, the sand is again gritty. The acidity of the soil is increased. This is good for blueberries, lingonberries, cranberries, but not for garden plants such as beets, garlic, onions, potatoes, and others.

While we were unloading things after the move, coming to our senses and arranging our life a little, my neighbors were already working hard in their gardens, leveling the plowed land, planning the beds and planting.

The first thing I undertook was planting plants for seedlings. She planted seeds in twists without soil, then transplanted individual cups. I will note right away that many of the local population do not bother with seedlings at all. They plant purchased seedlings. Seedlings are sold inexpensively here. But I wanted everything myself. In addition, I planted the same seeds as in the Ryazan region and I just wondered how it grew there and how it will grow here in the South. There is much more sun on the windowsills here than in our mid-latitudes. The seedlings grew well and without additional lighting. The region is new to me. Warm days come much earlier than I'm used to in the Ryazan region. Surprisingly, I got it right with the landing time. My seedlings at the time of planting in the ground were quite developed, strong, not overgrown. here, exactly the same. as in middle latitudes, there are night spring frosts, so it is better not to plant seedlings in open ground before May. Only starting from May the probability of frost is very small and can be planted in open ground. And in the Ryazan region, we planted at the same time, after May, but only in greenhouses or with the obligatory night covering of plants under a film.

But even at this stage - seedling and planting - I had several misses.

  • There was no need to plant cucumbers, kobachki, corn, watermelons, melons, sunflowers, beans with seedlings. All this grows beautifully from seeds planted directly in the ground. My seedlings of these plants tried for a very long time to adapt to the new conditions of open ground and basically died. During the time I drew attention to the fact that here (through seedlings) none of the neighbors plants these plants and began to repeat after them - I just planted the seeds in the ground in open ground. Those few days while the seeds sat in the ground and took root. they were not afraid of the cold snaps at night. And they hatched exactly when the nights became warmer, but these were already good strong shoots, and not mine, weakened by a plant transplant. I just lost time growing seedlings and almost ended up without these plants.

I didn’t know that under the crown of walnuts nothing worthwhile would grow. And on our site there are several of them (4-5), huge trees with a nine-story house. The neighbors told me about this later, but it was too late - my first beds (garlic, beets, cabbage, black onions) were not near the trees, but under their great crown. And as a result - rare small plants with small fruits, not at all what I expected. True, then I planted beets in a large vegetable garden behind the house. but the landing time was lost. And in this region it is very important not to be late. Be in time before the onset of the sweltering heat, when everything just burns in the sun, despite regular watering.

  • Cucumbers could not be simply planted in open ground. I think that next year, if I plant them in a large garden, it will be necessary under the arches, but not in order to protect them from the cold at night, but in order to be able to cover them from the sun during the day. I liked how my neighbor planted the cucumbers - she has them located between the corn planted in squares. Firstly, corn shades cucumbers from the sun, and secondly, cucumbers weave well over it and do not lie on the ground, they hang like on a trellis.

  • I was pleased with the potato harvest. He turned out to be large, not sick, good. But in terms of landing - changes will need to be made. In a good spring, similar to this spring, the potatoes should have been planted earlier. And, most importantly (!) We planted early potatoes, and after 2 weeks we planted mid-season potatoes. But they dug it out at the same time - both early and immediately mid-season. Since the mid-season could not bear the onset of heat and the tops of it quickly began to wither. Accordingly, he stopped developing and growing. The potatoes in the ground became soft. If we planted mid-season potatoes right away, without taking a two-week break, it would have much more opportunity to become even better and larger than it turned out this year. Although, I repeat, I was very pleased with the potato harvest.
  • When you plant in a new place, there are different inconsistencies. Such a discrepancy happened in my main garden, behind the house. It can be clearly seen on the diagram of my landings. Behind the house and yard we have a large garden, and behind it is the main large vegetable garden. Between the garden and the vegetable garden there is a fence made of a chain-link netting with a wicket. Since the trees in the garden have a spreading crown, I did not plant anything close to the fence in the garden. There is just free space. Then I made 3 long beds along the fence (carrots, onions and zucchini), then I divided the garden into 2 parts, in the middle of which there was a wide passage. So these long beds were very inconvenient. The irrigation hose had to be routed down the aisles. And it was uncomfortable to walk.

For the next season, I want to change the layout, do not make long beds. Plant a pumpkin along the fence. The pumpkin can climb the fence - it will be beautiful and take up less space. And the pumpkin under the crown of apricots should not be so hot. The crown of trees will protect her from the scorching sun. In the middle of the garden, I will make a large, wide passage, which will freely dock with the gate to the garden. Perhaps on one side of the gate along the fence, I will not plant a pumpkin, but cucumbers. I will plant corn around the perimeter of the garden. The result is a natural fence and shade. Approximately it will look like this:

  • And one more significant disadvantage when landing, I came to light later. When planting corn, I did not know that corn is a fresh plant. It is male and female. And it is not fertilized if it grows far from each other. Therefore, it is planted in at least two rows, and preferably three or more. And they are planted quite densely, without making large gaps between plants. Due to the sparse planting and only one row, my corn had half-empty ears. Our neighbor agronomist later told me about the love of corn for thickened plantings.

There were also mistakes in growing plants. But I'll talk about this in the second part of this article.

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Spring has come again

- Olga, without which plants, in your opinion, spring will not look into the garden?

- Every year our whole family looks forward to spring. From the gentle warmth of the bright sun, a joyful mood appears, the body is overwhelmed with energy, you wake up with completely new thoughts, there is a feeling of unity with nature. I begin to think two seasons ahead: what would it be like to plant in the fall, so that in the spring some corners of the garden bloom and the fragrant fragrance makes the air around? Of course, spring is unthinkable without delicate and bright primroses. Spring comes slowly to my garden. First, primroses make their way out from under the snow, shining with melted ice floes. Many varieties of bulbs, hellebores, and corydalis open their buds. Having felt their aroma, the first pollinating insects wake up. Spring melts the snow, the earth, becomes a full-fledged mistress, and here rhododendrons bloom - abundant varieties of evergreen and deciduous species.

- Are there any favorites among them?

- Yes. This is a late variety of blunt rhododendron - Purpurkissen. The shrub reaches a height of only 40 cm, but its shoots develop in breadth up to 80–90 cm. The foliage on it is not visible at all due to the abundant flowers of deep wine-red color! In the spring, chubushniki are also delightful, I want to recommend 2 varieties that grow here: these are Variegatus with charming foliage and Coronal Aurea. The advantages of these chubushniks are obvious - they are bypassed by aphid colonies.


Flowers that grow in flowerpots, boxes and pots

Flowers in boxes and flowerpots decorate the site, they can be placed in any corner of the cottage, hung from the wall of the gazebo or on the fence, placed on the foundation near the house. Place near flowers that have faded, for example, near tulips and the blooming pot will fill the empty space.

I want to tell you about the flowers that I grow in flowerpots, pots and boxes. I have regular shop pots with a bottom, and there are no bottom, they are made of PVC pipe scraps.


I arrange them along the edge of the flower beds, fill them with earth and plant undersized flowers in them. The water in these pots does not stagnate and even during heavy rainfall penetrates deep into the soil. Pots with a bottom, boxes, flowerpots should have holes for draining excess water and drainage, it is better to place them under a canopy, under a tree so that rainwater gets into them as little as possible.

For these plants in containers, fertile soil is needed, they will have to be fertilized and watered more often, since their roots are in an enclosed space, and they use nutrients and water from the soil faster.

Pansies
These flowers look great in any container. They grow well in pots one plant at a time, or you can plant a couple - three bushes of different colors.



Anyutki in plastic boxes, placed on the foundation near the wall of the house, decorate the courtyard with flowering.


Purslane
Another undersized flower that grows and blooms well in any container - in a wooden or plastic box, in a pot.




I really like the silk purslane flowers. I place containers with flowers near the greenhouse, near the house, near the gazebo, along the edge of the flower garden.

Gatsanii
Gatsanias are simply created for growing in pots, according to my observations, they grow better in such conditions than in soil, they are probably warmer in a pot, and watering can be regulated.




The flower does not like abundant watering, it gets sick and dies if the ground is wet and cold for a long time. And the potted plant can always be moved under the roof during lingering rains.

Marigold
Low-growing varieties of marigolds such as "Little Hero" grow wonderfully in pots and flowerpots. They begin to bloom in June and bloom profusely until the first frost.

This year, in mid-May, I planted thin-leaved low-growing marigolds in pots without a bottom and placed them under lilacs and viburnum.

Since May 25, it has become very cold, especially cold at nights, only 2-4 degrees Celsius, and on June 1 hail fell, covering the whole vegetable garden with white balls. It rains every day, and my marigold saplings have turned purple.

But as soon as it gets warmer, the leaves will turn green and the bushes will be covered with yellow and orange-red flowers.

Stunted aster
Low-growing aster varieties can also be planted in small pots and spacious flowerpots.

And in boxes, astrochka will grow well and decorate the garden with their bright flowering.

Petunia
Petunia is the best flower for growing in boxes, flowerpots and hanging planters.


It is better to grow multi-flowered varieties in boxes and pots, and ampelous in hanging containers.



They can decorate gazebos, fences, arrange pots along the paths.


In order for petunia to bloom profusely, it periodically needs to be fed with potash fertilizers.

Sweet pea
Low-growing varieties of peas look great in flowerpots.



Its multi-colored butterfly flowers have a pleasant aroma, bloom until late autumn, if you pick off faded inflorescences, new flowers appear.

Lobelia
For several years in a row, she grew undersized blue and pink lobelia in boxes.


I bought seedlings at the market, but it didn't work out to grow my own, she was very frail, elongated, and eventually died.

She planted seedlings densely, in bunches and the lobelia bloomed profusely. When the flowering ended, I cut it off, fed it and new stems began to grow on the bushes and boxes with lobelia were again covered with sky-blue flowers and bloomed until autumn.

Coleus or nettle
Coleus is an ornamental plant with bright variegated leaves similar to nettle leaves. Therefore, this plant is popularly known as nettle.

Coleus grew up at the exchange house on the windowsill, he was already very old and lost all his decorative effect. I cut off a few twigs and put them in a glass of water, and threw the bush itself. Roots soon appeared.

At the beginning of summer, I planted all these sprouts in one pot. And all summer they grew up in the country. And in the fall I took the Coleus home. All the time he grew up on the window in the kitchen. This is how it looks now.

As soon as it gets warmer on the street, we will take him to the dacha, put the pot near the gazebo or on a stump, by the bench, let it grow free and decorate our dacha with its leaves.

Geranium
Geranium is also a home flower, which we take to the country in the summer. At the dacha, he feels great. Geranium immediately changes the color of the foliage, it becomes dark green. And at home she has pale green leaves, she probably lacks the sun, because when the growing of seedlings begins, I remove all the house flowers from the windowsill and provide sunny places for the seedlings.

I do not transplant geraniums into the soil, it will grow in the same pots. I have two flowers with red and pink-white flowers. I took her to the dacha for a long time, but I haven't taken her outside yet, as it is cold, especially at night, and it rains constantly. As it gets warmer, it will grow in the flower garden.

Thunbergia and morning glory
In our country house there is a large wooden blue box, once a hibiscus grew in it, for a long time it stood empty. But one day I decided to plant Tunbergia in it. It is a climbing plant with beautiful yellow flowers with a dark eye inside the flower. Here's a pyramid I got.

The next year, I planted Tunbergia in this box from one end, and on the other half Ipomoea kvamoklit with carved dill foliage and red asterisks. And this pyramid adorned our site.

Gladioli
I grow gladioli in a large flowerpot.

I plant sprouted bulbs in mid-May, usually new varieties, which I buy for the summer season. This year I planted three varieties of flowers in a flowerpot. I can already imagine how beautiful they will bloom.

Gladioli in flowerpots grow faster than those in a flower garden. They bloom early and look great.


The flowerpots can be rearranged to another place, near the flowerpot you can place low-growing flowers in pots and create a delightful composition that will decorate any corner of the garden and create a festive mood.

And how wonderful the chrysanthemum multiflora (spherical) looks in flowerpots - you just can't take your eyes off! Now I also want to plant these wonderful flowers for myself.


Watch the video: Some Gardeners Will Get Upset That Im Sharing This Secret Gardening Tip With You?!?!


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