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But, let's say, you, while a friend unknown to me, got a plot already plowed up. It's worse than turf, but not fatal. We start working with him too (see photo 2).
Photo # 2
Why not a shovel? Still, when you scrape the soil with a hoe-ketmen, you get a more careful attitude to the land that has not been plowed for a year.
But what if the hoe-ketmen does not scratch the harder soil? Then you already need to breathe and take up the shovel (see photo 3).
Photo # 3
In principle, landings are needed on hills, and not on level ground, and even more so not in a deadly trap (glory to the "sadistic authors"!) In the form of a deepening in the soil, where with a guarantee, but unnoticed by anyone and never until now, if not earlier rotted - the root necks and bases of the boles will still rot, especially in the seedlings of apricots and pears. Losses in Russia - tens of millions of trees and billions of rubles - but no one sees this.
And then, if you have planted a tree mutilated during digging without a central root and with wounds for infection, on a hill or on a slope, you give it a chance to live at least 15-30 years. True, this small chance is further reduced by the pursuit of tall seedlings, and the older the tree is and is dug out with an open root system, the less intact roots it has.
But what about the pots of seedlings in the markets? - you ask. They are often only in advertising pictures, at least in our places. Maybe somewhere they sell seedlings with a closed system in containers.
So, we got a steep hill, which means that frost can get close to the seedlings from the sides. Therefore, we kill two birds with one stone - we smooth the hill to a gentle one and it is with the old manure-humus that we provide combined nutrition, but only from the second - third year (see photo 4).
Photo No. 4
Then the sodding of the garden (the best is the grass borer. As noted in the reference books, - "The sprouting bent is a low lawn grass that grows rather quickly and forms a dense and dense cover."). And the sooner sodding occurs, the better, since the guardians of purely southern technology in the garden (black steam) and even those ranked as geniuses had no idea and have no idea about the great role of sod. In addition to what I said above about its role as the "roof of the house", it is also a thermal insulation layer for underground residential floors and tree roots, especially during periods of snowlessness.
Note: it's a pity not to cut down thousands of curses with an ax in hundreds of media outlets against the sod blanket and calls to destroy it - like all living things in the cruel climate of Russia.
And when the tree grows, then, not relying on us - the ignorant, it itself will begin to feed itself (see photo 5).
Photo No. 5
Spring will come, the snow will melt, and here it is a miracle - not a single leaf, plus there is no grass cut and left in place. Billions of warm-blooded creatures (read about them above) - they will also eat the prepared supplies in the storerooms of the underground floors, and every last leaf from the surface will saturate the earth with organic matter, and ... with heat!
And now the time comes, and now my grateful students send me successful photos from their gardens - like this (see photo 6).
Photo No. 6
Yes, I am reproached for sad, alarming, bitter publications (agree with me - but they want optimism so much!), But I am writing and writing my endless sad "Notes ...". Here is photo # 7.
Photo No. 7
This is not a simple photo, and not everyone can understand it. Near the highway, thousands of cars every day, and all the drivers glance over the dying birch grove, not noticing anything. Well, and you, friends, have probably already noticed that a fire-fighting ditch was plowed through the grove. And the point in this case is a bet that can be won by guessing from what the grove will die completely - from a fire or from a deep wound in the soil that caused erosion.
This is the clearest example of the fact that even native plants and their native home - the soil are so defenseless against cutting tools! And what is it like for immigrants from the south in the garden, where, compared to wild plants, they are much more defenseless, which means that their crown, roots and sod and all soil should be inviolable!
Sorry for the verbosity. I'm finishing. Here is the last photo for # 8.
Photo No. 8
Today, when I am writing this article, it is only October 8, and snow has covered most of Siberia up to Kazakhstan. But, I was already in advance, and the photo has long been ready for such cases.
Aha, - opponents will say - again anti-science, citizen of Zhelez. There is, however, the most reliable, gently sloping burrow of seedlings in the pits, on the side, fanned for centuries, when only the tops stick out from under the ground. And there is nothing here ... (further unprintable expressions).
And here are my objections. It seems understandable, but only that it is necessary to drip in “according to the classics” just before winter, so that the soil would freeze at once, and the seedlings would lie down in comfort, in dryness until the spring heat. So the early snow has ripened, as specifically for this article.
Let it melt later, but what about those who receive seedlings by mail in the last days of autumn. Just plant? - but most of the seedlings weakened on the way in the parcels will freeze or die completely before spring. Dig in on the classics? And the climate is shaking, and suddenly, instead of winter, the rains will return. And after a month of muddy roads, you can already dig out the dug-in seedlings and ... throw them away.
The third and final path for bare root seedlings is vertical hole and she is landing on a permanent place "according to Zhelezov"! This can be clearly seen in photo # 8. Not a single case of death of seedlings from me (the author of the method) and my friends.
Let's figure it out further?
From the moment of vertical prikop-planting, the tree begins to get used to the soil in relative dryness and safety from rotting and frost - it tolerates both slush and frost. Here it is important to clear off the excess land as early as possible, but in the end, as shown above, the seedlings must remain on a gentle hill.
And now mentally trace the fate of seedlings with an open root system from a gentle classic ditch: it rotts even in the spring, and then already partially rooted to the soil, it unceremoniously pulls out (and he doesn't sleep anymore!). And here she is - another transplant! The exhausted sapling sighs bitterly.
Friends! Please send this material to your friends and acquaintances - let our gardens grow and live long.
If someone is interested in our nursery and its products, I inform you about the contact details:
Nursery with grafted seedlings - Sergey Valerievich Zhelezov: tel. 8-923-336-82-66, 8-983-275-40-56, e-mail: [email protected]
Zhelezov Valery Konstantinovich - bones, seeds, cuttings, training discs and grafting tape kits: 655602, Republic of Khakassia, Sayanogorsk, 10 micro district, 2-A, apartment 7, tel. 8 (39042) 2-63-76, 8-960-776-86-72, e-mail: [email protected] http://sad-sib.ru
Photo by the author
Up to what age to transplant roses with a lump?
The peculiarities of preparing plants with a lump for transportation of topics are unique in that woody plants have no age restrictions for transplanting. Modern technology allows you to preserve the root system of mature trees and shrubs. Now they transport and plant planting material with a lump up to 1 m in diameter. This is more than enough to translate a rose of any size, no matter how old it is.
Due to climate change, many are forced to abandon the most reliable method of shelter - snowing. After all, constant temperature drops and little snow in few places leave drifts that lie until spring. The simple preservation of plants in pits dug in the snow to ground level, under a hillock of substrate, lutrasil and a thick layer of poured snow, has to be replaced with ditches or storage in piles.
Digging is the main and easiest way to preserve all fruit trees and berry bushes: apple trees, pears, currants, etc. But ornamental plants are also added to the ground no less successfully (sometimes even summer trees are sent to the digging hole for spring cuttings, although this method is mainly used for lianas and heat-loving shrubs). It is possible to lay seedlings in the ditch with open roots and in containers.
If there are small, fragile, very weak seedlings or grapes, honeysuckle and other vines need to be dug in until spring, it is better to plant them in pots in loose soil before digging in. As a rule, plants in pots and with bare roots are instilled separately, although the process differs only in a few points.
Before starting storage, you need to prepare the plants - to clean the deciduous species from all leaves, on seedlings with an open root system, also inspect the roots, removing damaged parts. Before digging, the plants need to be "refreshed" - immersed in cold water (if possible - entirely) for at least a couple of hours, focusing on the condition of the roots and branches. Container and potted plants are watered just before planting.
Digging (by time) can be carried out until the soil freezes. The key to success is choosing the right location. Any area protected from wind and flooding is fine. Traditionally, trenches are dug on an elevated or level, dry place without the risk of flooding or high groundwater occurrence, for example, in a free bed in a vegetable garden or a flower garden for summer houses near the southern wall of a house.
Saplings in the pit. © Sergey Ermakov
The interest of gardeners in growing grapes in their summer cottages is growing every year. Seedlings of this plant are easy to purchase in specialized stores and online. In order not to be disappointed, carefully consider the choice of the variety. Late varieties need a warm climate for full ripening. In northern regions, give preference to early varieties with a short ripening period. Buy zoned varieties that have proven themselves well in your area. Zilga grapes are bred specifically for cultivation in harsh climatic conditions.
To get a good harvest of cherries, you need to plant several different varieties of this plant next to each other. It is better, again, to choose annual plants, because they are cheaper than two-year-olds and take root faster. When buying, be guided by the following parameters of seedlings: height - up to 1 m, root length - 20-30 cm, shoot length - up to 20 cm.
To keep the seedlings of fruit trees until the time of planting, monitor the moisture content of the roots. Moisten exposed roots and wrap with a cloth or place in a bag. Wrap the trunk and branches with paper. It is advisable to fix the seedling so that it does not get damaged during transportation.
Before you go shopping for seedlings, make a clear plan for planting and a list of trees you want to purchase. Don't fall for the bait of sellers looking to sell substandard plants. And try to pay maximum attention to young apple trees, pears and plums, so that they quickly take root and delight you with a generous harvest.
As a rule, planting roses in autumn with an open root system is carried out in the second half of October. If you follow the correct technology, the flowers will have time to take root before the first frost, will tolerate winter well and bloom by next spring. Planting roses consists in simple standard procedures, which include the selection and preparation of a seedling, a land plot and further care of the plant in the fall.
You can start planting roses from the beginning of September, but weather conditions sometimes lead to the fact that this process is delayed until mid-October. In autumn, the optimum air humidity for rooting seedlings is maintained - about 80%, while in spring it is only 60%. Also, in autumn, there is a greater amount of precipitation and the optimum temperature of the soil, which was warmed up over the summer.
Planting bushes are recommended to be purchased in specialized stores. Some people prefer to place orders via the Internet, but in this case it will not be possible to check the status of the roots. Roses with an open root system are somewhat cheaper, but after purchasing them you need to plant them in the fall as soon as possible.
Blanks for future roses should not be overdried. Plants showing signs of decomposition or fungal diseases should be discarded immediately. A good open root system should be uniform in color. A healthy rose has at least three shoots. When buying, it is important to pay attention to the material in which the plant with an open root system is packed. This can be wet sawdust or paper to prevent damage to the sprouts.
One day before planting a flower, it must be soaked overnight in cool water. Then you need to remove the leaves from the shoots and remove the damaged areas with a secateurs. And it is also necessary to shorten the root system to 30 cm. After all the procedures, the seedlings must be treated with iron vitriol to prevent various diseases.
Planting material can take root well and develop only in a carefully selected place. It is worth noting that the rose is a fairly sensitive flower that requires appropriate climatic conditions. Therefore, it is extremely important to comply with the following requirements:
If all these requirements are met, it is necessary to start preparing a planting site for roses with an open root system. The first important step is to dig up the soil to remove weeds and other plants. Then fertilizer mixtures are necessarily added.
In the autumn, it is necessary to plant roses deeper in order to prevent the seedlings from freezing during severe frosts. When planting, you need to evenly distribute the root system and compact the soil well. The ground should be fairly snug to avoid air pockets.
The first step is to dig out the groove. For a large number of seedlings with an open root system, a significant area of land will need to be cultivated. Fertile soil must be poured at the bottom of the dug hole. Then the rose root system is spread. The deepening is covered with earth, tamped tightly and watered. For additional protection of the roots of the rose, it is recommended to form a small elevation of the soil around them.
Water the planted bushes in the fall should be abundant - at least one bucket per bush. After evaporation of the remaining moisture, the soil is covered with dry earth.Also, around the circumference, you need to dig holes for watering.
In addition to this method, there are several more options for planting roses with an open root system:
In conclusion, it is necessary to mulch the soil, which will save the plant from a sharp change in temperature in the fall. For this, the holes are sprinkled with peat, hay or compost.
The procedure for planting roses with an open root system is presented in the video:
The main task of care is the implementation of timely watering in dry weather in the fall. Also, planted bushes with an open root system will need a reliable shelter from frost. Protective measures involve the construction of a metal frame or canopy made of wooden sticks. Then the structure should be covered with a dense material that will withstand strong gusts of wind.
It is also recommended to protect cuttings that are sensitive to low temperatures. To do this, they are covered with half a plastic bottle. Dry leaves or onion skins are also suitable as protective structures. After the snow falls, a snowdrift can form over the plant. In the spring, you should remove the frame or any other shelter, as well as erode the soil and remove mulch.
Planting roses in the fall with an open root system is a laborious process, for good results you will need to choose a place and soil, select and prepare seedlings. You also need to take care of the safety of the bushes until spring.