5 simple remedies that will defeat late blight on tomatoes

The development of phytophthora is facilitated by increased soil moisture, especially often in greenhouses. Some folk remedies will help get rid of the disease and preserve the tomato harvest.

Potassium permanganate and garlic

Potassium permanganate began to be used in horticulture many years ago, when it was not possible to purchase chemical preparations against various plant diseases. It can carry out both therapeutic and prophylactic treatment. It is most effective to fight any diseases of vegetable crops at an early stage, while a small number of bushes are affected.

It is not difficult to notice phytophthora: on the back of the leaves it manifests itself with a gray-brown bloom, this is the first sign of a dangerous disease.

Do not wait until the leaves begin to curl and darken and the disease will hit the already set tomatoes. In this case, the fruits will no longer be able to be preserved, they will lose their taste and appearance, they cannot be stored, even if you remove them from the bush when not fully ripe.Potassium permanganate is an inexpensive and well-acting antiseptic that helps in the treatment and prevention of fungal diseases of plants. Phytophthora is caused by spores of pathogenic fungi. In addition to the therapeutic effect, potassium manganese strengthens the immunity of plants and prolongs the period of their fruiting.

The substance is absolutely safe for human health, therefore, all types of horticultural crops can be processed at any stage of fruit ripening, unlike other chemicals, especially pesticides.

A solution is often used in the proportion of 30 g of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water. They are sprayed with bushes. An effective remedy is obtained with the addition of garlic. You need to chop 100 g of garlic, pour a glass of water and leave for a day. Then 10 liters of water and 1 g of potassium permanganate are added to the infusion. To increase efficiency, experienced gardeners add a small amount of liquid soap, 2-3 tablespoons to the medicinal solutions. 10 liters of water, it can be replaced with grated laundry soap. This improves the adhesion of the composition to the surface of the leaves and prolongs the therapeutic effect.


Metronidazole or its analogue Trichopolum is a well-known and widely used antibacterial drug. It can be used in horticulture to treat fungal diseases of plants. It works well against most of the known fungi, is inexpensive and easy to use.It should be borne in mind that this tool is not intended for permanent use, only in courses. If you process plants in the same greenhouse for several seasons in a row, it will cease to act on fungi, since they will acquire resistance to it. The solution for processing tomatoes is easy to prepare - you need to take 10 tablets of 250 mg and dissolve them in 10 liters of water. The composition is prepared immediately before processing, the leftovers are not stored.

Milk and iodine

This is a folk remedy for the treatment and prevention of many diseases of tomatoes and does not harm the fruit. Iodine is a strong antiseptic, it treats fungal, viral and bacterial diseases of garden crops, helps to fight pests.To treat late blight, a composition is prepared from 1 liter of milk and 20 drops of iodine, which are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Milk-iodine solution should be applied daily until complete recovery.


A popular and environmentally friendly medicine for late blight is horsetail infusion. You need to take 100 g of horsetail greens and pour 1 liter of water, put on fire and boil for 30 minutes. Then add 5 liters of water to the solution and cool.Hot solutions are not used to treat plants; they should be at room temperature. With the resulting product, process tomato bushes with a frequency of 1 every 1.5-2 weeks.


A simple and cheap way to combat late blight is saline solution. To prepare it, take 1 glass of salt, stone or ordinary, and dissolve it in 10 liters of water. Apply this composition after removing the affected parts of plants - leaves, stems, fruits. Effective for the prevention of late blight.

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To save tomatoes from phytophthora, you need to know why it appears. Which contributes to the development of the disease.

What is late blight? Signs of illness

Therefore, the first late blight affects potatoes, and then the spores fly to the tomatoes. Phytophthora begins with the appearance of dark brown spots on the leaves, then they move to the stems and fruits. Lower leaves are affected first. The spots can be of different shapes and sizes. At the beginning of the disease, there is a whitish coating on the leaves.

The fruits become sick through the stalk. They may remain clean at first, but brown stains appear on them during storage. This disease can destroy all tomato plantings in a few days.

Photo phytophthora on tomatoes

Can I take seeds from diseased tomatoes?

It is important that the spores of the disease can remain on dry seeds. Only after warming up for two hours at a temperature of 45-50 ° C can you be sure that the seeds are disinfected. Therefore, if the seeds are taken from a diseased fruit, they need to be specially processed.

Conditions for the development of late blight

In dry hot weather, late blight infection of tomatoes is minimized. Spores of this fungus do not like sunlight and are inactive. But during the period of rains and fogs, when the humidity of the air rises, they "wake up" and begin their harmful effects. If it rains for more than two days, be sure that your tomatoes have already been infected with late blight.

1. Usually late blight appears on tomatoes in August, after cold nights and damp foggy matinees. But tomatoes can get sick earlier - in July. Favorable weather for the development of the disease - temperatures below + 15 ° C and high humidity.

2. Thickened plantings contribute to the appearance of late blight. Therefore, the excess leaves must be torn off in order to improve the ventilation of the bushes.

3. Watering tomatoes over the leaves also helps them get sick. Therefore, in the open field, late blight often appears after rainy cold weather. It is worth watering the plants in the morning so that the moisture is well absorbed during the day and only at the root, the leaves cannot be wetted.

4. Low temperatures are also a reason for the prevention of tomatoes from late blight.

If the weather is dry and sunny, then infection usually does not occur. Spores die in the sun.

Other reasons for the development of late blight are:

  • abuse of nitrogen fertilizing
  • lack of useful trace elements in the soil copper, potassium, iodine, manganese
  • bushes too densely planted.

How to keep tomatoes from late blight - prevention

  • The first stage of prophylaxis for the next summer's harvest begins in the fall during the last harvest and when the tops are pulled out. It must be removed from the garden and burned so that fungal spores do not infect young tomatoes in a year.
  • If there is excess lime in the soil, then you need to balance its composition by pouring sand into the pits.
  • Before planting, the soil must be disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Tomatoes love dry weather. Strong humidity in warm weather, and even faster in cool weather, leads to illness. It starts from the lower leaves, where more moisture accumulates. It is necessary to constantly check the lower leaves and if they begin to darken, immediately remove.

As already mentioned, it is imperative to pick off excess leaves and stepsons from tomatoes. The lower leaves are removed to the first ripening brush constantly. Yellowing and drying leaves are also cut off. It is important to create good ventilation for the tomato plantings.

You can cover the rows of tomatoes on top with foil or covering material so that it hangs on the sides without touching the ground. This will maintain airing, and the tomatoes will be sheltered from the night cold dews.

Prevention of late blight can be called the complete mulching of the earth under the planting of tomatoes.

In small areas, protection can be created from curtain plants sown around the perimeter of the beds. For example: peas, curly beans, corn.

Photo phytophthora on tomatoes

It is necessary to strengthen plants from a young age. Temper. It is enough to fertilize and feed (without fanaticism and excesses, of course). Water with infusion of ash during the ripening of the fruit. To make them strong and strong, then it will be easier for them to fight diseases. But nitrogen fertilizers (mullein, herbal infusions) should not be fed in the second half of summer - this weakens the plants, they will get sick faster.

How to cultivate the land after phytophthora

For prevention, they water the earth with drugs phytosporin and trichodermin... If there was a massive disease, then you need to burn all the diseased bushes, and pour the fungicide on the ground.

How to save tomatoes from late blight in a greenhouse

In the greenhouse, tomatoes are well protected from late blight. Even if it's cold and damp outside, they have many advantages. The greenhouse creates its own climate, which can be regulated. Do not forget to ventilate, as well as prophylaxis. It is necessary to frequently ventilate the greenhouses so that excessive condensation does not collect and the humidity is normal.

  • Do not thicken the planting.
  • Pick off stepchildren and extra leaves.
  • Tie up bushes.
  • Mulch the ground.

At the end of June, you need to spray the tomatoes in the greenhouse with a biological product phytosporin for prevention. Constantly cultivate the land under the tomatoes.

In the greenhouse, it is also necessary to disinfect its entire structure and ground from the fall. This can be done in several ways:

  • remove the top soil layer of 20 cm and start a new soil
  • bury the stalks of dill, marigold and calendula deep into the ground so that they rot and fertilize it and heal
  • treat the entire surface of the greenhouse with solutions of phytosporin or copper sulfate.

What to do with late blight on tomatoes if it appears in the greenhouse?

You should not use preparations with copper - after all, there is always a ripening crop in the greenhouse. It is better to use folk methods. The same infusions of garlic, onions or milk solution. They are described in folk recipes later in the article.

You can spray tomatoes with just water and iodine. Take 10 ml of the usual 5% iodine in a bucket of water. Before use, you need to remove all yellowed and diseased leaves with dark spots. Spray completely bushes and fruits. After 3 days, repeat the procedure.

To combat late blight, fumigation is used in greenhouses: a piece of natural animal skin or wool is placed in a container with hot coals, all windows and doors are tightly closed. The smoke kills the spores of the fungus and prevents them from multiplying further.

They also sprinkle the beds with ash after planting and the second time at the first ovary.

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies

Garlic infusion

Folk remedies for protection against late blight have proven themselves well. This is garlic and milk.

To prepare the garlic infusion, take 200 grams of garlic (can be replaced with onions) and insist in a bucket of water for a day. After straining, diseased plants and tomatoes are sprayed. Spraying should be repeated every 2 weeks.

Milk solution or whey

Dilute the milk in water (100 grams per liter) and spray the tomatoes. You can replace milk with kefir. Lactic acid bacteria prevent phytophthora from developing. You can add a few drops of iodine to the milk water. Such spraying will not only help against late blight, but will also serve as a fertilizer for your tomatoes. It is better to repeat it every 2 weeks too.

Salt solution

Another popular wisdom advises sprinkling tomato bushes with a solution of simple table salt (one glass per bucket of water). This solution protects tomatoes from various diseases; after drying, it forms a film on the fruits. Repeat spraying after rains.

It is better to use all these methods to prevent the disease. If phytophthora is clearly visible on the bushes, then most likely you will have to use chemistry to fight.

Photo phytophthora on unripe tomatoes

Treatment of late blight on tomatoes in the open field

Copper - good for phytophthora. Copper preparations are used to combat and prevent disease. Drugs are used Hom, Polykhom, Oxykhom, they can be diluted directly in cold water in a watering can (according to the instructions).

You can make the solution yourself. Add a bar of adhesive laundry soap and a sachet of copper sulphate to a bucket of water. You can also treat the bushes with wood ash infusion.

If all folk remedies have been tried and do not help, then you have to use chemistry. There are many different tools in garden stores. The most workers are fungicides. Disease spores also adapt to different chemicals, so they will have to be rotated to have a different composition.

Late blight resistant varieties

By and large, there are no such varieties. All tomatoes are affected by late blight. Although in recent years, cherry varieties have been developed that can withstand the invasion of late blight. Now there are many new F1 hybrids, which manufacturers are positioning as resistant to late blight. These are such hybrids as:

  • Snowstorm
  • Budenovka
  • Dragonfly
  • Parterre
  • Pink dwarf
  • Raisa
  • Caspar
  • Tanya
  • Kostroma

Early varieties can be conditionally considered resistant to late blight. They just have time to give the harvest earlier. Popular varieties for open ground:

  • Alpha,
  • Amur bole,
  • Valentine,
  • Explosion,
  • Parodist,
  • Marisha,
  • Sanka

  • Sugar plum raspberry,
  • Mandarin duck,
  • Golden brush,
  • Poznan,
  • Meal,
  • Sweet bunch
Photo of the cherry variety in the greenhouse

How to keep harvested tomatoes from late blight

You can save part of the crop if the disease has already attacked the plantings. To do this, you need to warm up the fruits in hot water. Water 60 ° C is poured into a bowl and the tomatoes are lowered there. You need to keep them until warmed up, but not boil them. The hand usually tolerates this temperature a little. But it is better to look at the thermometer and add hot water as it cools. Then the tomatoes are dried and ripened.

Is it possible to eat tomatoes with late blight

After such treatment by heating, phytophthora spores die and these tomatoes are quite edible. Well, you yourself will not want to eat sick fruits - they are black. Green unripe tomatoes from diseased bushes can be used in winter salads and harvesting.

Irreplaceable greens

In second place in terms of frequency of use, I would put brilliant green... It can be used as a substitute for garden varnish, to process tree cuts, rotten spots and scratches on pumpkins. I grow a lot of pumpkins - I use them as a vitamin supplement for chickens. I put the pumpkins in storage, carefully examine them and, if I notice a scratch, I process them with brilliant green. Pumpkins are perfectly stored until June.

Zelenka paired with manganese suppresses the formation of whiskers on strawberries.

I used to remove the mustache on strawberries four times a summer, but now only two. And if you dilute 1 tbsp. l. brilliant green in 5 liters of water and spray the cherry after flowering, then the fruit will be tied much more.

40 drops of brilliant green in 10 liters of water is enough to burn powdery mildew on cucumbers and onions.

Causes of the onset of Cladosporium disease

In this disease, spores spread very quickly throughout the site. Even a slight breeze is enough for this. So if there is even one infected plant on the site, the neighboring ones will soon be infected.

To avoid cladosporiosis next year, 3 weeks before persistent frosts, it is necessary to treat the soil

On dry plant residues, the fungus can live up to 10 months. Drought and frost are not terrible for him. With the wind, spores are carried around the site and beyond. Cladosporia can also wander through clothing, garden tools, pests, and domestic animals. Plants are affected regardless of whether it is damaged or not.

How to get rid of wheatgrass

Many advise summer residents not to fight wheatgrass - let them grow: he, they say, loosens the earth and makes it fluffy.

I think that she is not familiar with this malicious weed, since she gives such advice.I have been at war with wheatgrass for more than one year, and it would seem that I have already taken it out of the garden, but no, I’ll bring it in with plowing, then my neighbor will kindly "give it"!

What is wheatgrass?

I am writing for those who have not yet met this monster in their beds. It is a creeping rhizome perennial, very similar to the finger-like pig. No wonder my husband calls them "mafia bros." They seep into any crevice, quietly creep along a given course, quickly and easily rooting in their path. These aggressors grow up to 2 m over the summer, forming continuous thickets. So what kind of loose earth can we talk about, if it is no longer there - just solid roots ?!

Both wheatgrass and pigs are hard-to-eradicate weeds. In addition, if they settled in the garden, wait for the wireworm. The wireworm hibernates in the rhizomes of these villains. If you do not touch it, as the author advises, then in two seasons the whole garden will overgrow. I advise the wheatgrass not to give any time or space, to constantly disturb him. I offer three effective methods of dealing with him and the pig.

This is great wheatgrass bait! He happily dissolves his rhizomes under straw, husks, cardboard, roofing material. It turns out that they walk along the surface of the earth under mulch. You pick it up and pull it out entirely.

Deep digging with a shovel.

Carefully select wheatgrass rhizomes and sow with rye. The rye will pop up and strangle any remaining wheatgrass roots you have not chosen. You will get rid of the wheatgrass (or pig), and at the same time fertilize the soil and loosen it.

Don't be afraid to use a commercial herbicide against wheatgrass. I use and the result is evident.

In short, you need to fight wheatgrass constantly, not allowing yourself or him to relax.

© Author: Galina I. SHCHEKALEVA St. Petrovskaya. Krasnodar region

How to deal with late blight

In the second half of summer, when the heat of the day is replaced by night coolness, late blight, or brown rot, manifests itself. She annually takes up to 70% of the crop of potatoes and tomatoes. The causative agent of the disease is the obligate fungus Phytophthorainfestans, which has a complex biological cycle and an incredible ability to form virulent races. Many summer residents refuse to grow tomatoes for only one reason: because of phytophthora.

Most often, the disease manifests itself on the leaves of the lower tier, and then moves to the tops of the shoots. Brown spots are clearly visible on the foliage, covered with a white fluff from below - fungal spores. On the stems late blight manifests itself in the form of dark brown stripes. In wet weather, the affected areas rot, in dry weather they dry out. Brown late blight spots appear on the fruits. The marks "grow" both in breadth and in depth.

Phytophtora, without pity, puts its signs not only on mature, but also on green tomatoes. It is even more offensive that apparently healthy tomatoes taken off still get sick and turn black. In literally one night, the entire crop can be destroyed.

There are several reasons for the appearance of late blight. First of all, close proximity to potatoes. Both of these plants are known to belong to the nightshade family, and therefore their ailments are the same. If late blight has declared itself in the potato field, then in a couple of weeks it will also occupy the tomatoes. Therefore, be careful: if you notice something amiss, take action immediately. Also, do not plant tomatoes near eggplants and physalis.

Secondly, the thickening of the plantings, and hence the poor ventilation of the plants. Third, there are sharp changes in night and day temperatures. In July-August it is still hot during the day, and it is already cold at night. To limit the harmfulness of late blight, it is necessary to take timely protective measures. One should think about the health of tomatoes as soon as the seeds are sown. For 1.5 - 2 weeks before planting seedlings in the ground, spray the seedlings with 1 percent Bordeaux liquid or fungicide.

Then, 15 - 20 days after planting, carry out another preventive and health-improving treatment of tomatoes with any contact-systemic fungicide "Metaxil SP" or "Pennkoceb" ("Tridex VDG"). The best thing, of course, is not to forget about prevention. After flowering, spray the tomatoes with Acrobat or Metaxil. In the future, it will be enough to treat the bushes with one of the fungicides "Azofos", "Pennkoceb" or "Tridex", "Medex", "Ditan M-45". Chemical prophylaxis is best done in the evening and in calm weather. If the summer is damp, tomatoes are processed 4 - 5 times per season with an interval of 7 - 10 days. The last spraying is 20 days before harvest.

Treatment of plants with growth regulators also gives good results. They increase the immunity of tomatoes and, accordingly, disease resistance. It can be "Oksigumat", "Ecosil", "Epin", "Epin plus" or "Ecosil VE".

And henceforth it is necessary to monitor the health of plants. Under favorable conditions, the pathogenic fungus multiplies rapidly. But at temperatures below plus 10 degrees and above plus 28 - 30, the disease practically does not develop. Therefore, if tomatoes grow in a greenhouse, periodically give them a "steam room". Only, of course, not during flowering. On a sunny day, close all windows and doors for a few hours, then ventilate well.

The disease is especially dangerous in rainy and cool weather. In dry years, the disease progresses much more slowly. Promotes the development of late blight and high humidity, so water the tomatoes only (!) At the root. Do not breed rot, dampness. Can provoke an outbreak of late blight and excess nitrogen. After the disease has already put its marks on the plant, it is very difficult to change the situation.

While the tomatoes are green, they can be treated with fungicidal preparations that protect against late blight. But as soon as the fruits began to turn brown, it is better to refuse the "chemistry". Switch to Bordeaux mixture (once a week). It does not penetrate into plants and, accordingly, does not enter the human body. Copper-containing fungicides contain copper. Therefore, any treatment with such preparations is only beneficial to tomatoes. It is also good to use a copper-soap emulsion (2 g of copper sulfate and 200 g of soap per 10 liters of water), copper sulfate with soda ash - medex (150 g per 10 liters of water) and others.

When the tomato seedlings in the garden grow a little stronger, the trunk grows fat, at a height of 4 - 5 cm from the ground, pierce each stalk through with a piece of ordinary copper wire. Nutrients, rising up to the crown, will already carry copper ions. And this is a "barrier" for a fungal infection. Copper prevents phytophthora from developing, and the fruits of tomatoes remain clean and beautiful.

The stronger the plant, the more difficult it is to reverse the course of its disease. To increase immunity, tomatoes should be periodically fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. A mixture of iodine and potassium chloride is also effective: 40 drops of iodine and 30 g of potassium chloride per 10 liters of water. The iodine solution destroys microbes and accelerates the ripening of the fruit. You can treat the plantings three times (with an interval of 5 days) with a solution of one iodine - 10 ml per bucket of water.

Spraying tomatoes with freshly prepared garlic infusion is very effective against late blight. 1.5 cups pureed garlic, 1.5 g potassium permanganate and 2 tbsp. l. Dissolve the grated laundry soap in 10 liters of water, stir, strain and process the bushes, spending 100 - 150 g of the mixture for each. Such treatments are carried out at intervals of 15 to 18 days.

Large green tomatoes can be sprinkled with salt solution (1 glass per bucket of water). Salt protective film will prevent fungal spores from entering the fetus.

Fermented milk, yogurt and kefir are also excellent preventive measures. Mushrooms die in a duel with lactic acid and microflora contained in these products. Pour 100 g of milk into a liter jar, add water and drop a couple (but not more!) Drops of iodine. Such a solution will not only destroy microbes, but also accelerate the ripening of the fruit. And you can spray tomatoes every week with slightly whitened milk (like tea) with water or diluted kefir (1 liter per bucket of water).

After a heavy cold rain, it is useful to treat the tomatoes with a solution of laundry soap and copper sulfate. The ash composition is also effective: boil 300 g of sifted ash for half an hour, settle, strain, bring the volume to 10 liters and add 20 g of soap.

If you notice the symptoms of the disease, immediately start saving the plant. First, tear off the leaves affected by late blight, then spray the bushes with a fungicide. A week later, treat only the fruits with a solution of calcium chloride - it is sold in the pharmacy, in 200 ml bottles. This 10% solution must be diluted three times with water. Start processing with the stalk and the remaining sepals of the flowers. It is from them that late blight gets on the fetus.

Regularly remove loose flowers (they are one of the sources of infection) and any lower leaves under the pouring fruit. By mid-July, tomatoes should have only the upper leaves above the last cluster.

It is easier not to let phytophthora into the garden than to fight it later. Ordinary mulch can be a good barrier. It reduces the humidity in the greenhouse, favorable conditions are created under it for the development of beneficial microflora, which just inhibits the development of the disease.

It is noticed that tall tomatoes suffer from late blight much less than undersized ones. And all because, according to agricultural technology, they are supposed to remove the lower leaves. Bushes planted in greenhouses and greenhouses are not so susceptible to ailment: there are no sharp daily fluctuations in temperature.

Watch the weather. As soon as the thermometer begins to hang at around plus 10 degrees at night, it is undesirable to leave the tomatoes on the bushes. It is better to collect unripe, then the chances of saving and preserving them will be much greater. And so that the apparently healthy tomatoes that have been removed do not turn black, immediately after harvesting, immerse them in hot (up to 60 degrees) water for 1.5 - 2 minutes. At the same time, the skin will wrinkle, become ugly, but the fruits will ripen and have a normal taste. Alternatively, wipe each vegetable with a cloth dipped in garlic juice.

As a rule, tomatoes ripen well, plucked not bright green, but whitish. And further. Spores of late blight (and other phytopathogenic fungi) can be "stored" in the soil and on plant debris for decades, waiting for favorable conditions. Therefore, in the fall, after harvesting, collect the tomato and potato tops and burn them (they have no place in the compost pit), and dig the garden bed deeply. And observe the crop rotation whenever possible: it is not worth growing tomatoes on the same plot from year to year.

The most reliable way to avoid late blight is to plant new ultra-early ripening varieties and hybrids that yield crops in August. Early ripening tomatoes, which take 85 - 90 days from germination to fruiting, also "slip away" from the epidemic. These are "Profitable", "Emerald", "Tiny", "Orion", "Medina F1", "Debut F1", "Radical", etc.

Tomato varieties are relatively resistant to late blight - "Vilina", "Kalinka" medium-resistant - "Ruja", "Liana", "Groot", "Slava Moldova".

Prevention methods

There are several prevention methods that can help reduce the risk of disease in tomatoes:

  • correctly follow the principles of crop rotation, plant tomatoes in the same place every 4 years
  • do not plant after potatoes, peppers and eggplants. It's good that cucumbers, onions, beets, turnips, carrots or cauliflower grow up to the tomatoes at the landing site
  • grow early and infestation resistant varieties
  • do not plant too densely
  • with an excess of lime in the ground, pour peat into the holes, add onion peels and sprinkle with sand on top
  • monitor watering, do it at the root, without touching the shoots
  • mulch the bushes in time
  • a good neighborhood would be mustard, marigolds, calendula, onions or garlic
  • unnecessary shoots and leaves should be removed in time
  • increase plant immunity, feed with potassium and phosphorus in time, spray with immunomodulators
  • ventilate the greenhouse
  • do not use nitrogen fertilizers in the second half of the growing season. A large amount of nitrogen can provoke the development of late blight.

These are simple rules, observing them you can avoid contamination of tomatoes.

In conclusion, it should be said that the most important thing in the treatment of tomatoes from late blight is prevention. If you take all preventive measures, then problems with this scourge can be avoided.

Which method to choose for the treatment of tomatoes from late blight is a personal matter for each gardener. Complete elimination of the disease does not guarantee any of the listed methods. To effectively combat the onset of tomato disease, it is better to alternate methods and methods so that the fungus does not get used to it and does not develop immunity to drugs.

Watch the video: How to Defeat Tomato Blight

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