Homemade aloe: types and care, transplantation, reproduction, watering and fertilization


Aloe is a succulent plant with fleshy, succulent leaves that can retain moisture even in the dry season. Aloe is native to the desert and semi-desert regions of Africa, Madagascar and the Arabian Peninsula. There are more than four hundred species of aloe, but mainly three types are grown at home: aloe vera, tree aloe (agave), variegated aloe. And although these representatives of the desert flora do not differ in special beauty, they have long won their place on our windowsills due to their healing properties. Homemade aloe is a doctor, which is always at hand.

Indoor types of aloe

Aloe tree (agave) differs in juicy leaves 20-25 cm long, growing on well-defined stems. The edges of the leaves are covered with teeth. Homemade aloe tree can grow up to one meter in height. This species is called an agave due to the fact that it supposedly blooms once every hundred years. In fact, at home, tree-like aloe almost never blooms.

Aloe variegated (tiger) - a plant no more than 40 cm high with a very short stem, on which bright green leaves with white stripes are arranged in a spiral rosette. The plant looks very attractive. Sometimes it is confused with another representative of the succulent - Gasteria.

Aloe Vera (Indian, Barbadian, or Barbadian) - a succulent bush with a short stem, formed by tightly pressed rosettes of leaves. Lanceolate fleshy leaves, smoky green, corrugated, with a serrated edge, grow up to 50 cm long.

Maintenance and care

All aloes are succulents, so they love bright light and do not need frequent watering. In the summer, if possible, take them out into the fresh air under the sun's rays. In winter, do not try to replace natural light with fluorescent: the leaves will begin to stretch, and the plant will lose its already inconspicuous attractiveness.

Fertilization and watering

In the summer, water the plant as the topsoil dries out (1-2 times a week). In winter, keep it in a cool, bright place and water it with soft water no more than once a month, otherwise the plant will die as a result of root decay. With the correct content, the plant can not be fed at all. But if there is such a need, do it once a month from April to September with liquid combined fertilizers.


Homemade aloe - plants with a well-developed root system, therefore, they need to be transplanted quite often. Young plants are transplanted annually, adults - less often, once every 2-3 years. Each subsequent container should be larger than the previous one by one fifth of its volume. The substrate should be loose, airy and consist of coarse sand (one third) with the addition of charcoal and forest leaf land (two thirds). You can use a ready-made cactus mixture. Be sure to provide good drainage.


Aloe is propagated by apical cuttings or basal shoots. Cuttings are made in spring or summer. Cut cuttings are dried until the cut is completely dry, then immediately planted in a permanent container. For breeding aloe, you can also use commercially available seeds, which must be planted in a sterilized substrate of soil and sand, and then placed under the lamp.

Pests and diseases

Aloe rarely get sick, but sometimes they can suffer from scale insects or mealybugs. It is necessary to make a mixture of garlic with soap, dilute it slightly with water and wipe the leaves of the plant with this mixture. The biggest danger to homemade aloe is root decay as a result of too much watering or cold water. If this happens, reduce watering, treat the root of the plant with powdered coal or wood ash and dry well.

Growing aloe at home is easy. For beginner growers, homemade aloe is the best choice, because it grows quickly and confidently, without requiring special attention. It is enough just to follow all the recommendations for caring for succulents, and your room will be decorated with a large plant, which, if necessary, will become your first-aid kit. And the medicinal properties of aloe are known to everyone.


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Allamanda: characteristics, varieties and cultivation

Allamanda is one of the most beautiful flowering plants, which has, in addition to magnificent decorative, also medicinal properties. Frost intolerance makes it impossible to grow it in the outdoor conditions of our climate, but as an indoor or greenhouse flower, the plant feels quite comfortable.

Types and varieties of philodendron

Philodendron is divided into two groups of varieties, one of them curly, the other bush.

Common types of philodendron:

Philodendron Guitar (Philodendron panduriforme) an evergreen liana grows up to 2 meters long, it must be tied up. Stands for flowers are different, it is for this that a support covered with moss is suitable. It must be inserted at the time of transplanting so as not to damage the roots. Young leaves are like a bend of a heart, and adults copy a musical instrument. It is sometimes confused with the bipartite philodendron, which appears to be a separate variety.

Philodendron Drip-bearing (Philodendron guttiferum) - semi-epiphyte, in which the leaves have an oblong shape with a sharp end, and the color is green with white veins. If the plant is not tied vertically, then the leaves will have a small size of 14 cm.And if tied, then their length reaches 25 cm. More often, instead of the Kaplenosny variety, they sell Cobra, but it is more capricious than its relative.

Scaly philodendron (Philodendron squamiferum) with a rigid lowered barrel. It has powerful evergreen leaves with three lobes, while the old branches have five of them. They have scarlet streaks with bright green spots. Their length reaches 25-30 cm. It blooms only indoors.

Philodendron warty (Philodendron verrucosum) has bronze-green leaves with white veins, resembling a pattern, and a shape like a heart. The petioles are burgundy with red hairs. The length of the leaves is 15-17 cm. An evergreen plant with a fragile trunk, can reach up to 2 meters.

Philodendron graceful (Philodendron elegans) liana has a single trunk, it is tall with large leaves. Their size is 70 cm in length and up to 30 cm in width. They are planted in winter gardens or high rooms.

Philodendron climbing (Philodendron scandens), it is also called ivy. Loves to breed in a suspended state, perfect for hanging pots. The leaves are dark green, resilient, 8-15 cm long and 5-10 cm wide. This is the smallest variety of liana. Grows up to 20 meters.

Philodendron Sello (Philodendron selloum) a green vine with an even vine that grows up to 2 meters. It has large ovoid leaves, which are cut into 10 or more parts. Over the years, the incisions are made deeper, reaching the central vein. Each piece of the sheet has a curly edge. The total length can be up to 90 cm.

Philodendron atom (Philodendron atom) in height reaches only 50-60 cm. It grows slowly, in a rectilinear bush, with curly leaves up to 30 cm long. Their color is bright green, with five-lobed cuts.

Philodendron blushing (Philodendron erubescens) is a stunted plant with a stem shorter than a leaf. They have a light green color and a long heart shape, their growth reaches 50 cm. The trunk is red with dense leaves. When grown indoors, it reaches 1.5 meters.

Philodendron Xanadu (Philodendron xanadu) liana with huge dark green plates, up to 40 cm long. With age, they acquire a zigzag shape and become rigid. The bush-shaped plant reaches a height of up to 1.5 m.

Philodendron bipinnate (Philodendron bipinnatifidum) liana with a lush stem and showing signs of dried leaves. The leaves are large, up to 90 cm, rough, oak, have a lobe section from 1 to 4. The flower is burgundy, grows up to 18 cm, with a white center. Great for indoor breeding.

Philodendron foot or lobular (Philodendron pedatum) Scientists still have not come to a consensus in its correct name. At the moment, its official name Philodendron is stop-shaped, but not final. This plant grows rapidly, its trunk is proportional to the size of the leaf. The leaves reach 45 to 70 cm in length. They have a dark green lacquered surface, and lobe cuts in 5 parts. With age, the gaps on the leaves increase to 10.

Philodendron spear (Philodendron hastatum) this vine has bright green leaves with a shiny surface. Grows rapidly, reaching the ceiling. Due to the thin trunk, it needs to be tied up. Loves moisture and morning light.

Philodendron home (Philodendron domesticum) this type of liana is very similar to the spear-shaped, but its leaf does not have a clear outline with a sharp end. And its petioles resemble a blushing philodendron, but with the difference that at home they are always green. Also curls and needs support.

Philodendron Martius (Philodendron martianum) the main stem is small, it is absent in young plants, in old plants it grows up to 30 cm. The leg has a lush, swollen shape. Leaves are oblong, heart-shaped and whole, up to 55 cm long and 25 cm wide.

Philodendron black-gold (Philodendron melanochrysum) an evergreen bush liana. It has a tall, thin and fragile trunk, reaching up to 50 cm. The leaves are long, heart-shaped, with white veins and edging. The length of the plate reaches 80 cm, the color is dark green, almost black. A favorite variety of creepers among flower growers.

Philodendron Ilseman (Philodendron ilsemannii) one of the decorative species of liana, reaches a height of 1.5 m. It can have shoots from the root, it needs a support covered with moss. The leaves are 40 cm long and 15 cm wide. They do not have a uniform color, the leaves are covered with light green spots of various sizes.

Philodendron decorated (Philodendron ornatum) the leaves of this vine are bright green, heart-shaped and have white veins. The small sheets resemble the shape of an egg. The length of an adult plate reaches up to 60 cm, and its width is up to 40 cm.The plant twists, needs support, the length of the petiole is from 30 to 50 cm.

Philodendron radiant (Philodendron radiatum) leaves of a uniform green color, up to 20 cm long and 15 cm wide. It has elongated petioles, ideal for indoor conditions.

Philodendron Evans (Philodendron evansii) leaves of a dark green color grow up to 80 cm, and a width of up to 60 cm.The leaves are oval in shape with a sharp end, it is wavy at the edges. Brown color is inherent in young shoots; with age, it turns green.

Philodendron narrow-lobed (Philodendron stenolobum) the plant is suitable for indoor cultivation, has a thick trunk, formed due to dense foliage. As you grow, you need to substitute support in the form of a bamboo stick. The leaves are dark, green in color, have the shape of three corners. The length of the adult plate reaches up to 40 cm, and the width is up to 15 cm.

Philodendron narrowly dissected (Philodendron angustisectum) has a yellow-green color, grows as a bush, ideal for home conditions. The leaves take on a heart-shaped type, cut into several parts, each segment resembling a feather with a sharp end. A young leaf has 5 of them, and an adult has up to 10.

Philodendron Congo plant is a shrub species with large leaves. They have thick red to burgundy veins. The stalk is fleshy, low, tough. Liana is not whimsical, it can grow in low light, but does not tolerate sudden changes in heat.


In the warm season, home care for the Gasteria plant includes adherence to the temperature regime. It is optimal to maintain a room temperature of 18-21 degrees, to a maximum of 25. In a cool environment, the plant quickly withers and begins to ache, and the rough leaves can lose their structure and change the rich color to pale, covered with painful rashes. If the permissible temperatures are exceeded, it is possible to provoke drought of the soil and wilting of the plant until death, as well as a burn from external solar irradiation. Care and maintenance of your favorite seedlings should be thorough, especially for such an unpretentious Gasteria.

Adhering to simple rules, flower growers get colorful blooms - bizarre flower shapes reach up to a meter in length, framed by a colorful halo of bells.

In winter, the plant begins a period of "dormancy", it is recommended to keep it in conditions up to +15 degrees. Gasteria can dry out at higher temperatures.

The best solutions for determining the optimal temperature regime is to follow the recommendations from the manufacturer indicated on the label of the purchased seedling.

Basic requirements for the cultivation of Kalanchoe Degremon

Kalanchoe daigremontiana (Kalanchoe daigremontiana) is one of the species of the Kalanchoe genus of the numerous fatty family. The plant does not branch, has erect stems with boat-shaped leaves up to 20 cm long and a serrated edge. The homeland of this species is the island of Madagascar. There, the plant lives on sandy soils and has perfectly adapted to a prolonged lack of moisture, a lot of light and rather dry air. Kalanchoe Degremona belongs to succulents, therefore it is able to store moisture in the tissues of leaves and stems and spend it very sparingly. In its homeland, this is a rather tall plant; in room culture it does not grow above half a meter. In order for it to reach such a height and bloom, which does not happen often in an apartment, it is necessary to provide it with conditions close to natural.

How aloe blooms, 12 photos

Almost everyone is familiar with this amazing plant.

If he is not the owner, then he has repeatedly seen him on the windowsills of friends, relatives, or in the photo.

The reason for the popularity lies in the medicinal properties of the perennial, because the answer to the question: does aloe bloom, few know.

Widespread the misconception that aloe bloom occurs once a century... When a florist knows what conditions need to be created to get a blooming perennial, he will witness an unusually beautiful sight.

Perennial flowering

Without special care, aloe at home pleases owners with flowers extremely rarely, unlike in the wild, where flowering is celebrated every year. The culture throws one peduncle from the outlet, sometimes reaching 90 cm in height. During the period of prolonged flowering, it is crowned with spike-shaped inflorescences of yellow, pink, red or orange flowers in the form of tubes or bells.

The summer season, when aloe blooms in the wild, is not a typical period for flowering culture in an apartment. On the windowsill, this happens in winter.

Attention! The duration of the flowering phase depends on how the aloe blooms: the flowers bloom gradually from the lower to the upper tier within a month.

How do different species bloom?

Today, amateur flower growers grow in their home environment a variety of varieties of this culture, of which there are more than five hundred around the world. Having a set of common characteristics, each species remains unique in its own way. The uniqueness of the variety also applies to flowering.

Aloe awesome

A powerful perennial, the maximum height of which is 3 m, has a single erect stem.The saturated green color of the leaves with the physiological inhibition of the plant acquires a shade of red. When spring comes to an end, from the rosette, which consists of 50-60 lanceolate leaves, an inflorescence is formed in the form of a branched brush.

Tubular flowers are painted in intense red-orange color... However, there are representatives of the species that have yellow or whitish flowers.

Caution! On the edges or on both sides of the leaf blade, there are 5 mm red spines with a brown tint.

Fan aloe or folded

A powerful plant in the form of a bush or tree has a lignified forked stem 3-5 m high. The upper part of a separate branch is crowned with a large rosette, consisting of 12-16 ribbon-like leaves, which are arranged like a fan. Rounded green leaf plates with a grayish tint, 30 cm long and 4 cm wide, have smooth or slightly serrated edges at the tip.

Erect unbranched inflorescence in the form of one cylindrical brush does not exceed half a meter in height and consists of 25-30 scarlet flowers.

Variegated aloe

Aloe variegata or variegated are often found in houses. This type of aloe blooms at home and is a small plant with a maximum height of 30 cm. Leaves of a scaphoid shape of a dark green color with wide transverse stripes or spots of light tones caused the appearance of the second name of this perennial species.

From a rosette, the leaf plates of which are arranged in a spiral manner, with appropriate care, a peduncle with a length of about 20 cm develops. small tubular inflorescence with pinkish or orange-red flowers.

Aloe tree

The most popular species, which is grown on kitchen windows, is the tree-like scarlet or, as it is popularly called for its rare flowering, the agave. The plant in the form of a branchy shrub or tree in nature reaches 4 m in height. The succulent leaves with serrated edges are shaped like a sword.

In the peduncle, flowers are formed, collected in dense conical brushes. The color of aloe has a wide palette of colors: from fiery red to pink, including yellowish orange shades... It is with the agave that the misconception of people is connected about how often aloe blooms - once a century.

Aloe volatile

The appearance is practically similar to the previous one. Distinctive features are the smaller size and the presence of two-tone brushes.

Aloe soap

A plant in the form of a bush with a thick branched stem, forms many rosettes of 12-20 leaves. Lanceolate leaf plates, flat on the upper side and convex at the bottom, are green in color with longitudinal white spots.

The edges of the leaves are framed with 5 mm horn-shaped thorns, the apex of which has a brownish-red tint. Culture has small flowers of bright yellow or reddish yellow flowerswhich bloom from May to June.

Aloe Jackson

A perennial with a short stem of 25 cm is a native of Ethiopia. Linear leaves of light green color with white spots have a peculiar bloom, reminiscent of wax. On the toothed edges of the leaf plates, thorns are formed - one on each.

Before flowering, the plant throws out a peduncle in the form of a brush, at the end of which they form tubular flowers of a scarlet-red tone.

White-flowered aloe

This species is a stemless perennial in the form of a shrub that forms basal rosettes. The linear-lanceolate leaves of a typical gray-green color have white blotches and denticles at the edges of a similar tone. The inflorescence consists of 10-25 white tubular flowers.

Spinous aloe

This species belongs to the stemless group. Its leaves are pointed at the ends and covered with small white teeth. In the summer, from a rosette formed by leaves 15 cm long, it develops peduncle with small orange flowers.

Conditions for flowering aloe

In order for a perennial to please with flowering in an apartment, after ten years of age, aloe needs certain preparation conditions:

  • season - the optimal period for flowering is winter
  • dormant period - for the appearance of flowers in a culture, it needs to ensure a state of rest
  • temperature regime - scarlet is kept in a cool room, where temperature does not exceed 14 ° C
  • humidity - should be kept sufficient dry air in a room with a perennial
  • humidification - watering should be carried out through the palletn: immersing the container with a flower in water for ten minutes will ensure the proper level of soil moisture and prevent root rot.

When this series of requirements is fulfilled, the aloe will definitely throw out the arrow.

Caution! The aloe flower, which has a sharp specific aroma due to its high nectar content, can provoke headache attacks.

The video below was made in a greenhouse with blooming aloe, the specialist talks about how and when this happens:

Post-flowering care

Home care after flowering scarlet is similar to what it was before this exceptional phenomenon.

However, there is one important condition: it consists in carrying out pruning of the peduncle at the base.

So, scarlet is a unique plant that, provided the recommended conditions are met, can bloom every year, even at home.

Interestingly, many signs are associated with it. For example, if poverty, illness came into the house and they do not want to leave, then it is worth putting several pots with perennials - adversity will stop.


The seeds are sown in a light substrate and covered with glass, creating a small greenhouse. Until germination, maintain a certain humidity and keep warm. A constant temperature in the greenhouse should be maintained at 25-28 degrees.

After seed germination, the glass can be removed, but the soil moisture should be constant. At the same time, try not to overmoisten the soil so that the plant does not rot and get sick.

It is necessary to ensure that direct sunlight does not burn small seedlings, so the plants must be slightly shaded. Sprouts, with proper care, appear in a month. The little echmei are ready for picking up in six months.

After the plants have grown and they can be cut down. Prepare fertile soil and plant the ehmeya in separate pots. During the year, the maintained temperature should be at least 22 degrees with high humidity. And only after that, almost adult plants can be transplanted into pots for permanent cultivation. As you can see, the procedure for growing from seeds is not an easy task and only floriculture fanatics can handle it. Moreover, the flowering of a grown flower will have to wait for a very long time.

Planting flower shoots is best done in early spring, in early to mid-March. So the plant will have time before autumn, during long daylight hours, to get stronger, to build up a strong root system. If the roots on the children are still too small or there are none at all, then such shoots should be placed in a nutrient solution to build up the root mass. You can take a weakly diluted root.

As soon as the roots appear and, in your opinion, are strong enough, they can be planted in a nutritious substrate. Nutrient soil can be purchased at gardening stores. The sales assistant will tell you what type of substrate is best for growing echmea. But you can choose your own nutrient soil for growing bromeliads.

If, when separating the children from the mother bush, the root system of the processes is sufficiently developed for planting in a pot, then the roots must be examined, all damaged or rotten ones must be removed. Sprinkle the roots lightly with charcoal or crushed activated carbon and let dry for several hours.

Location and lighting

Ehmeya tolerates sunlight well, but does not stop growing in partial shade. The best location for ehmei is the western, eastern and southern window sills in the apartment. The only place where ehmeya will not please you with its height is the northern arrangement of the windows in the apartment. There, this plant will lack light. Certain species of this plant should be shaded only during the hottest hours of the day.

Pot size

The pot for planting ehmei should not be too deep. In principle, it is only needed so that the roots catch on the ground and prevent the leaves from falling. It might just be a wide bowl. What should be in the pot is a few holes and a tray large enough to drain the water after watering. It is important to drain the bottom of the pot. It can be specially bought in a store or broken shards or one or two handfuls of simple expanded clay.

The soil

Echmeya grows well on a substrate of crushed moss (sphagnum) with the addition of crushed leaves and fern roots. You can, if possible, prepare the soil yourself. To do this, you need to take one part of the peat land, leafy unripe humus, moss and add 0.5 part of the sand. It's a good idea to add charcoal to this composition.


After planting a young plant, you need to put it in a dark place or shade it for several days. It is advisable not to water these days. When transplanting an echmea, you need to adhere to several rules. They are not complicated and a novice florist can handle it.

First of all, you need to remember that a young ehmeya needs a transplant every year. It is better to take the soil the same as for planting young plants of this species. It can be such a composition: leaf humus, peat soil and sand. Everything is taken in equal parts and mixed. You can buy a special primer for bromeliads.

Mature plants are transplanted as needed. When the root system fills the entire pot and it is already cramped. A transplant is required with an increase in the capacity of the pot.

Drainage must be placed at the bottom. Several holes are made in the bottom of the pot, a suitable pallet is selected under the bottom. The transplanted echmeya is kept in quarantine for several days, that is, they are placed in a shaded place and not watered.

Fertilizers and feeding

Ehmeya is not too demanding on feeding, but still, once a week, two times it must be watered with fertilizers. A special composition for bromeliads is taken. It is purchased either in flower shops or in specialized shops for gardeners.

If you have not found such a fertilizer, then you can take the usual fertilizer for flowers, but dilute it in half, of the volume that is written in the instructions for ordinary indoor flowers.

Watering and feeding can be combined. First you need to pour a little water, then with dissolved fertilizer, and then again with water. In this case, a burn of the roots of the plant is excluded if you diluted the fertilizer not quite correctly.


Ehmeya should be watered regularly, with warm, settled water. She does not tolerate very cold water, like all southern representatives. Water as the top layer of the substrate dries. Loves ehmeya and when water is poured into the middle of the outlet. This is where watering begins. First, into the outlet, and start at the root.

Loves ehmeya and swimming, that is, spraying. Water can be sprayed with a fine spray bottle. Such humidification is especially good in winter, when the air in apartments is too dry and Ehmeya suffers from this. Such procedures must be carried out daily.

It should be noted that watering into an outlet is acceptable only in the summer. In winter, this method is unacceptable and is stopped, and watering is made more moderate. Otherwise, the growth point of the flower will rot and the plant may die.


Echmea care will not be a hassle. You just need to follow a few rules.

Unlike some other plants, this flower only welcomes temperature changes from day to night. And the more it is (naturally within reasonable limits), the better the ehmeya responds to them. She also loves the flow of fresh air, so it is good to ventilate the room as often as possible. In summer, the maintained temperature should be between 20-26 degrees. If possible, then the flower pot can be taken out on the street or on the balcony, veranda.


Ehmeya loves humid air. Spray it from a spray bottle with warm water, but do not wipe the leaves with a damp sponge. The optimum humidity level is over 60%.


In order for you to have fresh and strong shoots of echmea next year, you need to properly trim the children and flowers. The peduncle should be cut off at the very base, after it begins to wither. Do not rush to cut the leaves, children form between them. Wait until they are about a third the size of an adult plant.

Pests and diseases

Most often, ehmeya is affected by the bromeliad thyroid gland, spider mites, various types of aphids, and worms. If you notice that the plant has become depressed, begins to wither, or other signs of the presence of pests have appeared, it is necessary, after covering the ground, to rinse the flower from the shower with cool water, washing all the leaves.

Treat with insecticides. What drugs are best for such processing, you need to consult with the seller in the store where you buy the powder or liquid for processing.

Echmea diseases are most often associated with improper care. With excessive watering, the root collar of the rosette of the plant and the peduncle can rot, and the plant can die.

If the leaves wrinkle and stand drooping, then the plant does not have enough water. It is necessary to increase the dose and frequency of watering. At too low temperatures, the leaves become drooping, and the peduncle, when dried, dies. In this case, brown spots may form on the tips of the leaves. There are several other infectious diseases. These are leaf blight, fusarium and a virus that causes unexpected wilting of all leaves. In all these cases, the plant must be destroyed.


Ehmeya attracts flower growers with bright variegated decorative leaves all year round, and during flowering with blue-purple flowers. Ehmeya blooms in spring or summer, once a year.

From the middle of the leaf rosette, a pleasantly pink peduncle appears. The flower can reach half a meter in height. The flower performs only an additional decorative function.

Basically, attention is attracted by glossy leathery leaves, collected in a large rosette, with beautiful dark green or silvery transverse stripes and blotches.

The most popular type of echmea among our growers is striped echmea. Everything is beautiful in this species: small leathery leaves with pleasant whitish blotches and a long flowering period. The flower does not fade from the beginning of flowering, and this is the middle of summer, and until the darkest winter days.

Another species that flower growers like to grow is the sparkling ehmeya. She fell in love with long beautiful belt-like leaves. An interesting color in this species - the leaf is bright green on top, and red-violet below.


Ehmeya can be grown by seeds and dividing the shoots.

Ehmeya seeds are grown by truly fanatics of floriculture, since you can get a flowering plant only after four to five years. The easiest way to get ehmeya is by fission. During the transplantation of the plant, you need to carefully cut off several processes that have reached 10-20 centimeters. Try not to damage either the root system of the main plant, much less the roots of little Ehmea babies.

Dormant period

In winter, ehmeya enters a quiescent strip. The air temperature during this period can be 17-19 degrees. Watering during this period should be done in moderation, and in no case should you pour irrigation water into an outlet.Lowering the temperature in winter contributes to the formation of peduncles, but nevertheless it is necessary to ensure that the temperature does not fall below 16 degrees. During this period, ehmeya responds well to spraying. Perform this procedure daily. On winter days, this procedure is best done in the morning.

Plant toxicity / Useful properties

Some types of echmea need to be handled with care. So striped ehmeya is a moderately poisonous plant, so after pruning and transplanting, you need to wash your hands if you did not work with gloves. Otherwise, skin irritation may result.

And in conclusion, an unusual piece of advice. If anyone wants, they can try.

In order for the echmeya to bloom faster and earlier, the flower pot is placed in a plastic bag, where several ripe apples are placed. The bag is not tightly tied.

The procedure takes 1-2 weeks. Ehmeya will bloom in four months. This should be done with young plants that do not want to bloom.

Watch the video: Repotting Aloe Vera into Hydroponics

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