About replanting bulbs, or how to avoid tulip degeneration


Tulip - a flower with a rich history

Many gardeners grow tulips on their plots, but not all of them are dug up annually, especially if they are also mixed together. This, combined with the lack of digging, can lead to the loss of interesting varieties.

Tulips with white, yellow, and pink color, lilac, fringed, etc. are not very resistant to adverse conditions, unlike varieties with a red flower color. And in conditions of strong competition, such varieties often drop out or stop blooming.


And the hegemony of red tulips begins. They are wrong: there was no rebirth, just the place of delicate tulips was taken by more resistant varieties; in nature, the stronger individuals win.

Bulbous plants have a tendency to burrow the bulbs annually. This is especially true for tulips. Their bulbs can go 50 or even 60 cm deep. In this case, it is difficult to get them out of the ground; when dug up, they often remain in the soil, clogging up the area. Let me remind you, first of all, that one large onion forms one replacement bulb and three children per year.

A year later, a whole nest of bulbs of different sizes is formed. Such a thickened arrangement of bulbs leads to a lack of nutrients, especially since gardeners do not always find time to feed tulips. As a result, large bulbs become smaller, and small ones are in no hurry to become large. And tulips from year to year begin to bloom worse and worse. And very often people are disappointed in these beautiful colors and stop doing them altogether.

I myself dig the bulbs every year, store them in a dry place, plant them in a new place in the fall, and they delight with their abundant flowering every year. Walking through the garden in spring, I see how tulips grow and bloom in other neighboring areas, and often I see a not very impressive picture: undersized flower stalks, many non-flowering plants.

It is also necessary to dig out tulip bulbs every year in order to sort them by size during summer storage and plant large bulbs separately from small ones in autumn, then in spring the flowering of large tulips will be even, without empty spaces. Cultivation of large and small bulbs together also leads to a deterioration in their flowering.


It is impossible to establish a date for digging up tulips. It all depends on the weather and the place of cultivation. Usually, the bulbs begin to be dug up when the tulip foliage becomes lethargic, turns yellow and lies on the ground. If the foliage dries up completely, then the bulbs will be difficult to find, and when they are dug up, they can be damaged.

Different varieties end their growing season at different times, so the dates of their digging will be different. After digging up, I dry the bulbs in a well-ventilated area, for example, in a barn. I lay them out in one layer, I do not separate the leaves from the bulbs, when they dry, the leaves give their nutrients to the bulbs.

While drying the bulbs, I periodically examine them, remove the diseased ones, remove the finally dried leaves, sort the bulbs by size. After 2-3 weeks, the dried bulbs can be packed into cardboard boxes and stored in a dry storage room. The room temperature should be around 20 ° C. The bulbs are not dried in the sun, as their scales may burst or they generally bake.

I wish you beautiful, flower-filled gardens!

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Valery Brizhan,
experienced gardener


In order to get the maximum result, you need to take into account a certain number of factors:

  1. Choose the right place correctly. Tulips are very fond of sunlight, in addition, take care of protecting the plants from strong winds. The choice of a site for planting should be approached extremely prudently, because not only the condition, but also the life of future plants depends on this. Pay particular attention to the presence of slopes or other irregularities, and provide a permeable soil layer.
  2. Prepare the soil correctly. To do this, you should pay attention to the looseness and moisture content of the soil. Also, be sure to consider the air capacity level. These three factors will play a huge role in the state of future tulips. You need to make the soil as rich as possible in various nutrients. Purchase the necessary fertilizers in advance. Particular attention should be paid to the soil, which is dominated by clay. To increase the water permeability of the entire soil, you need to add a certain amount of river sand, usually about twenty kilograms per square meter are used.
  3. Choose the right fertilizer. This procedure must be carried out at least once a year. Transplanting in the spring can also include a stage such as fertilizing the soil. The most optimal amount of fertilizer is ten kilograms per square meter. Just do not use fresh manure, for a good result you need to wait about six months. Three to four weeks before transplanting tulips, you also need to fertilize the soil with minerals. It can be potassium salt or superphosphate. Thus, you will create favorable conditions for growing plants.

Observing the above rules, you will be able to provide the best conditions not only for transplanting tulips, but also for the further good development of plants.


Biological features of culture

Cultivating tulips, summer residents sometimes cannot achieve good results. The culture is often sick, the stems grow unevenly, they are curved, and the flowers do not have a standard size. To avoid failures, you need to know about the main components of a tulip:

  1. The root system of the flower develops from the embryonic root of the seed, and the rest of the roots extend from the lower part of the bottom of the bulb and are called adventitious. There are a lot of such appendages, but they die off every year.
  2. The bulb is the main part of the plant. It collects the nutrients necessary for the flower, it is the reproductive organ from which the stem, leaves and flower grow annually. The scales covering the bulb perform storage and protective functions.
  3. The stem is erect, strong, stretches upward and holds a colorful single flower.
  4. The plant has few leaves. They begin at the base of the aerial part, grow to mid-length and form a green surrounding.
  5. Annual flower. Has six falling leaves. It stands out for its richness of forms and a variety of shades.
  6. The fruits complete the flower's life cycle. In each nest of the triangular capsule small seeds are located - the future of the tulip.

Reasons for transplanting to another place

The dream of any summer resident is colorful spring flowers in a flower bed, but before starting to grow, you need to figure out why the culture is being transplanted. Transplanting tulips is a necessary event. Plants can bloom in one place for up to four years, but every year the flowers become smaller and lose their color.

Annual transplanting retains the varietal characteristics of the flower culture, delays the growth, gives the plantings a cultivated and decorative look. In a flower bed, the bulb buries itself, and after a few years it is difficult to find it in the ground.

There are enough reasons for transplanting tulips, sometimes the plants themselves indicate the need for transplanting:

  • This often manifests itself in the absence of flowers.
  • Sometimes tulips bloom at the right time, but the stems take on curved shapes.
  • Plants grow and feel uncomfortable in a thickened flower bed.
  • Bulbs are transplanted for preventive purposes. Such measures prevent the appearance of parasitic insects.
  • If the site is not changed for a long time, the plants begin to hurt. Only healthy bulbs are selected for transplantation.

Is it possible to transplant flowering tulips

It is not recommended to replant plants preparing for flowering or flowering specimens, but if an emergency arose, this should be done very carefully and carefully. It is better to dig up the plants when the sprouts have not had time to grow, before the buds appear.

They need to be removed with roots, the shovel should be inserted into the soil as deep as possible and more earth should be scooped up. But practitioners argue that such a risky venture is best canceled and postponed until the fall season.


How deep to plant daffodils

It will not be a mistake to say that one of the earliest spring flowers, a charming and sweet-intoxicating daffodil, is the most popular flower in decorating summer cottages: it appears in all its glory both in a flower garden and in a flower bed or in a rabat. Due to its brilliant decorative qualities, it is often found on lawns and in mixborders. By the way, the daffodil, which by its very appearance can amazingly improve the mood, is doubly appreciated in the cut for the spring holidays. To have the happiness of seeing a magnificent flower in your area, you need to know the rules for planting it in spring and autumn, as well as the basics of outdoor care.


Landing

In early to mid-October, the bulbs are planted in prepared places.

When purchasing bulbs, you need to make sure that they are not rotten, damaged, with awakened buds. It is better not to purchase such bulbs.

Before planting, to prevent bulb rot and fungal diseases of tulips, it makes sense to soak the bulbs in a fungicide solution for 2-4 hours. The classic option is Fundazol (20-40 g per 10 liters of water), in addition, they can spill holes in which tulips are planted. Today, there are also more modern dressing agents. eg Maxim (4 ml for 2 liters of water), or Switch (10 g per 10 l of water). The bulbs are soaked for 30 minutes.

Bulb mites can cause significant damage to plantings. In order to avoid the appearance of a tick, especially if this pest was found in your area, the bulbs are treated with drugs when planting Actellik (6 ml per 5 l) or Aktofit (8 ml per 1 l)

Transplanted plants should root in moist soil. Therefore, this year, due to the dry autumn, it is worth moistening the soil by 15-20 cm before planting.

You can read about drought management from articles.

At the same time, over-watering can lead to rotting of the bulbs.

The optimum planting depth for tulips is 3 bulb diameters.

To cope with mice, which often gnaw on bulbs in winter, they can be planted in mesh containers, or protect the garden with a net from moles. The same method will help to cope with the burial of the bulbs, as well as the 'loss' of tulips during digging and replanting.

In order to make it easier to dig up the bulbs, they are less damaged by rodents, you can plant them in a trellis box made of such a grid. Protecting the plants, they also clearly mark the boundaries of the plantings, which is useful when digging and replanting them.


Tulip care

It is necessary to take care of such flowers from the beginning of spring. After shoots appear, you should carefully inspect the plantings. Those bulbs that did not sprout must be carefully dug up and destroyed in order to prevent the spread of the disease to other plants. The tulip is very fond of moisture, but its roots are quite short and therefore the flower is not able to take water from deep layers of the soil. Therefore, it is very important to water the tulips on time. How often and abundantly the plants should be watered directly depends on the composition of the soil. But it should be borne in mind that during the formation of buds and flowering, they should be watered abundantly and systematically. After the plant has faded, it is watered abundantly and systematically for another half month. When watering, water should seep into the soil to the entire depth of the root system. In this regard, 10–40 liters of water should be poured per 1 square meter. When watering, try to prevent liquid from getting on the surface of the leaves, as this may cause a burn.

Top dressing

It is recommended to feed the plants with fertilizer solutions. If you like dry fertilizers, then before scattering them over the surface of the soil, you need to ventilate the tulip leaves. So, if fertilizer gets on a wet area of ​​the leaf plate, then as a result of this, a burn may form. After the dry fertilizer is distributed over the area, the soil should be thoroughly watered. Only in this case nutrients can penetrate into the soil and be absorbed by the tulip root system. The first time the plants should be fed in early spring, after the sprouts appear. At this time, you can carry out top dressing with dry fertilizer. You just need to spread it evenly, and then water the soil. A mixture of phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium (2: 2: 1) is suitable as a fertilizer. 1 square meter will take 50 g of this fertilizer. The second feeding is carried out at the beginning of budding. This time it is recommended to use a nutrient solution containing 1 part nitrogen, 2 parts phosphorus and the same amount of potassium. For 1 square meter, you need 30–35 g of solution. For the third time, fertilizers are applied to the soil immediately after the end of flowering. This time, phosphorus and potassium are taken in equal parts, and nitrogen is not used. 1 square meter will take from 30 to 35 g of solution. In order for the plants to grow daughter bulbs more intensively, a small amount of zinc and boron should be added to the solution.

Loosening the soil and removing weeds

Loosening the soil and removing weeds should be systematic. It is recommended to carry out this procedure after watering, since at this time it is easiest to pull out the weeds. It should be remembered that weeds take a lot of nutrients from the soil, thus depleting the soil. In this regard, try to delete them in a timely manner. If the soil is systematically loosened, this will slow down the process of moisture evaporation, and will also lead to the death of weeds. To weed and loosen much less often, it is recommended to distribute a uniform layer of mulch over the soil surface.

Do not forget to pick off fading flowers in a timely manner. In this case, tulips will not waste their energy on the growth and development of seeds, but the mass of bulbs will increase.

Transplant features

If you dig up the bulbs every year, examine them, sort them, etch them to reduce the risk of disease, then all the same it will not be able to nullify the negative impact of monoculture. There are 2 ways out: the first is to completely change the topsoil, the second is to transplant the plant to a new site. The most convenient way is the second. You can not transplant only tulips from 13 to 15 class. However, they will need a transplant after 3 or 4 years.

Reproduction methods

It can be propagated by seeds and with the help of bulbs. As a rule, only specialists (breeders) use seeds for reproduction, and that's all, because this kind of flowers are not able to preserve the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. Sowing is carried out in a greenhouse or in open soil. They are grown in one place without transplanting for 2-3 years, while the plants must be protected from frost in the winter.After that, ripe bulbs need to be dug up and stored. The landing should be carried out in the autumn. The first flowering of such plants is observed only at 5-6 years of age. However, it should be borne in mind that the first years of the flowers will not be very effective. Only at 8–12 years of age will the tulip bloom very effectively.

Experienced growers recommend propagating tulips exclusively with bulbs. An important feature of such plants is that after flowering ends, the parent bulb dies off, and it is replaced by a developing daughter with children. A lot of factors can influence the number of children formed, and the main one is environmental. It happens that not 1 large, but 2 smaller replacing bulbs are formed. At the same time, peduncles can grow in children after a few years. If you want to avoid the gradual degeneration of plants, then plant only onion-toppers in the soil, the diameter of which should be at least 12 centimeters. Such plants retain all the necessary varietal characteristics. Small onions are recommended for indoor distillation. In this case, the children should be grown to the required size and only after that they should be planted on an area with plants.

Pests and diseases

The most serious disease is the variegated virus. Finding out that a flower is infected is quite simple. So, if non-variegated varieties have characteristic stripes, streaks and spots on the petals and leaves, then the plant is infected. It is impossible to cure such a disease. In this regard, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the acquisition of planting material, and do this only from reliable sellers. Also, when cutting tulips, the knife blade must be disinfected after each bush, since this virus can be transmitted along with the sap of the plant. Infected tulips must be dug out of the ground along with an earthen clod and destroyed (burned). In this case, a very strong solution of manganese potassium must be poured into the hole.

Such a plant is susceptible to the August disease, the development of which is facilitated by the tobacco necrosis virus. You can find out that a tulip is infected by a twisted shoot and a flower disfigured by stripes; specks of dark color also appear on the bulbs. The infected flower must be destroyed. To do this, it is dug directly with an earthen lump, and a very strong solution should be poured into the resulting hole, for the preparation of which 3 grams of boric acid and 10 grams of manganese potassium are taken per liter of water. A hot solution should be poured into the hole. Or, instead of a solution, pour wood ash into the hole. For prophylaxis, healthy tulips are treated with a foundationol solution.

Also, the plant is susceptible to fungal diseases. So, it can become infected with root, wet, soft, gray, white or botrytous rot. Plants are especially susceptible to such diseases during the rainy spring period. Regardless of the cause of the disease, preventive measures are the same: the land must be well drained and the plants must be properly cared for. When the bulbs are dug up in the summer, it is recommended to sow plants that can produce phytoncides in this area of ​​the soil, for example: calendula, nasturtium, marigolds or mustard. You should also spill the area with a fungicide solution (2 g of substance per liter of water).

Lilac scoops, snails, mouse-like rodents, bears, onion root mites, slugs can settle on the plant. Get rid of the onion mite in the following way. The dug out bulbs must be immersed in hot (from 35 to 40 degrees) water and held for about 5 minutes. In the case when tulips become infected during the period of intensive growth, they are treated with a 2% solution of rogor or keltan. In the absence of the desired result, diseased flowers must be destroyed. When you dig up the bulbs, you need to plant radishes, tomatoes or tagetas in this area of ​​the soil, as they are resistant to these pests. You can get rid of the purple scoop by shedding mothballs on the foliage. On the site you need to lay out pieces of material, boards, pieces of slate and plywood, etc. Slugs, bears, snails will crawl under them in the daytime. You will have to systematically collect and destroy them. Dig a glass jar into the soil and fill it with water (not to the top). Bears fall into this trap and do not get out. Mousetraps will help with rodents, or you can process the bulbs before planting with iron red lead.


Caring for tulips after flowering

When the tulip petals fade, it is necessary to cut off the flower so that no energy is wasted on setting the seeds. Leaves should not be cut off, they participate in photosynthesis, providing nutrition. Now the main thing is to create conditions for the development of a young replacement bulb, because the old one dies off after flowering.

It is better to break off rather than cut the flowers with a pruner. Diseases of tulips, for example, variegation virus, are easily tolerated in the latter way.

After flowering, only the flower head breaks off, the entire peduncle does not need to be removed

In order for the onion to be larger, the plants, after flowering, are fertilized to choose from:

  • daily infusion of ash
  • potassium magnesium
  • potassium nitrate.

Top dressing is done on wet soil. During this and other stages of growth, it is not recommended to fertilize spring flowers with manure or fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. This can lead to rotting of the bulbs.

Don't forget about soil moisture. While the leaves are green, water the plants abundantly once a week if the spring is dry.

Watering tulips, you need to soak the soil to a root depth: 35-40 cm

Digging the bulbs

So that the flowers do not become smaller, and the bulbs do not get sick and do not degenerate, all kinds of tulips are dug up every year. This is usually done in late June - early July. An exception is tulip babies, they are dug up once every two years. Experienced florists advise:

  • host your event in dry weather
  • immerse the shovel deeper than you planted the bulb, as they grow deeper
  • destroy all diseased specimens
  • etch the dug out planting material in a disinfecting solution.

Digging too early leads to underdevelopment of the bulb and babies. In addition, the decorativeness of future flowers will decrease. If you dig up late, when the shoots dry out, there is a risk that the bulb will have time to become infected with the fungus or the protective covering scales will crack. This can lead to spoilage of the planting material during storage.

If the leaves turn yellow and wither, try winding the stem around your finger. If the shoot does not break, it turns out to be plastic, dig up a control copy. If the scales of the onion turn light brown, it is time to dig.

Do not immediately cut off the stems of dug tulips, let them dry out, and the nutrients will transfer to the bulb

Once I was given a dozen bulbs of peony tulips. The stunning double flowers were blooming for a long time thanks to the cool weather. But after the tops turned yellow, I forgot to dig them up. Not one rose the next spring. Neighbors say that their rare new varieties are degenerating and do not sprout if they are not dug out every year.

Signs that it's time to dig up tulips - video

Drying and disinfection

The dug out tulips are laid out under a canopy in 2 layers for two days. After this time, the bulbous nests disintegrate easily. The bulbs are cleaned of dead roots and husks and disinfected in a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour. The procedure will destroy pathogens of rot and nourish the tulip with microelements. Then the bulbs are dried again, sorted by size and placed in open wooden boxes or baskets, preferably in one layer.

In order not to get the bulbs one by one, it is convenient to disinfect them by placing them in a gauze bag


Watch the video: How to Save Your Tulip Bulbs When Taking Them Up


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