The simple techniques I have described help to make work not tiring and leave time for outdoor recreation. This is what most gardeners dream about.
Let's talk about the beds that we will cook right on the turfed plot of land. To do this, first you choose a place for your future garden. Then take as many pegs as there are corners in the bed. The question immediately arises: "Why not four?" The answer is simple. In the concept of our gardener, a garden bed can only be quadrangular. But this is not always the case, each site can be unique, and the beds do not always have to be strictly rectangular and have a certain length and width - it all depends on what you are going to grow on them.
So, you have chosen the form, put the pegs. We pull the rope, clinging it to the end of each peg. To keep the bed the same height, mark the height on each peg and secure the rope at that level.
If there is sod at the base of your bed, take a sharp knife or sickle and run it around the perimeter of the bed, sticking the tip into the ground. This will give it another outline, and then, slightly trimming the sod with a knife, remove the top layer (about five cm). Then roll it up like a carpet and, turning it over, put it back on the garden bed. This will be the foundation of your future garden.
If you don't want to do this, you can simply cut or mow the grass as low as possible to the ground, put it aside for a while, and start making a garden bed.
Your further actions are reduced to the fact that in layers (like creating a compost heap) add organic ingredients, and you have a garden bed.
Now about the components. The first layer after the cut grass must be very dense so that weeds cannot germinate through it, so it is best if it is cardboard. You can spread several layers of newspaper, but this is in the event that this material suits you as organic, that is, if there are no harmful dyes in the newspapers. On a layer of cardboard, put the top sod layer cut from the paths with the grass down.
Then we do everything in the same way as when preparing compost: a layer of grass 10-12 cm (you can use the grass laid aside), a layer of soil 10-12 cm, a layer of leaves 10-15 m, again a layer of earth 10-12 cm, a layer of kitchen waste 10-12 cm, etc. The number of layers can be any, the main thing is that the height of the beds should not exceed the one planned by you, and the top layer should be fertile, consist of compost, peat or good land, and its height should depend on the crop grown in the garden bed.
You may wonder: "Where can I get so much land?" The answer is simple - take the top layer in the aisles between the beds.
It is better to grow on such beds in the first year either zucchini, pumpkin, peas, beans, green crops, or flowers. Why these particular cultures? Will explain. You have created a bed that looks a lot like a compost heap. The only difference is that you carry all the materials for the compost heap to a certain remote, specially prepared for compost place and build a high compost heap, but here almost everything is at hand, and you don't have to go far. As you know, crops that love fertile soil grow well on compost heaps. And these are usually zucchini, pumpkins, dill, cabbage...
If you plant any of these crops, you will get a good harvest in the first year, or by planting flowers, you will enjoy their lush and long flowering.
I want to note that, when creating beds in this way, you should by no means give up composting. It is imperative to prepare compost, but if you create such a bed every year at the same time as compost, then you will need much less compost, since you will only apply it where the soil needs to be improved.
The creation of such beds has several advantages over others made in a traditional way. Firstly, it will not be necessary to add compost or grass on them for a long time, since the soil there will be fertile for several years. The exception is mineral fertilizers, but you can also apply them once every 2-3 years if you use granular fertilizer AVA... I save here too, introducing not grass into the beds, but nettles, dandelion and dandelion. These beneficial weeds contain many minerals.
Another advantage is that you save on water. Those crops that you will grow on such beds, you will have to water from time to time, which means that all the components from which your bed will be exfoliated will quickly rot, much faster than in a compost heap, because you water more often than moisten the compost heap. I save money here too. I try to plant crops so that there is no free land. I do dense combined plantings, so I have to water less often, since the earth does not dry out.
If watering is needed, I replace it by loosening the soil (I do the so-called "dry" watering). And one more very important advantage - the compost heap must be periodically agitated so that there is good aeration, and this, as you know, is very hard work, you do not need to agitate a bed. It is enough to periodically loosen the topsoil.
That, perhaps, is all about preparing a garden bed on a turfed plot of land. Perhaps someone will like this method more than the traditional one.
To make the vegetable beds look no worse than flower beds, place them in the center of the plot in a circle, while the area of the garden should be large enough to implement the venture. Beds with tall plants will be able to form a kind of living border, while low plants will act as a background green cover.
For owners of a small area, it will be convenient to be located along the ray, radial direction or a standard rectangle. When planting, consider crop compatibility and crop rotation rules. Some gardeners even arrange their summer cottages in the form of an uncomplicated ornament, which looks quite impressive, especially from a low height. The main thing, as you already understood, is to approach this issue with creativity.
In addition to classic situations, you can always face the need to arrange a garden bed in a low-lying area. How to deal with this situation? The design options for the beds in the country exist in a huge number and such an important issue was not overlooked. Lowland areas, as a rule, are characterized by increased dampness, therefore, when designing them, you need to follow the following rules:
In addition to low-lying areas, raised beds deserve attention - these are beds located at a certain elevation and having bumpers that prevent spillage. They become more and more popular every year. Such popularity is due not only to undoubted aesthetic advantages, but also to practicality, because with the help of a raised bed, you can get a ripe crop earlier.
If you want to build a similar structure on your own site, then special attention should be paid to the question of what the beds are made in the country and what is the principle of operation. There are several main stages:
Photos of ideas for garden beds can be found on the Internet without any problems, which will allow you to choose the best option for yourself. We present some interesting options:
By adhering to simple rules and digging up the beds twice a year, you can truly decorate your site with amazing and functional elements that will delight you and your loved ones for many years.
In the autumn period, you can build a warm bed, first you need to knock down a box from the boards, usually a meter wide and two meters long, put a layer of drainage in the base, it can be, in fact, any large debris, for example, various branches, pieces of boards, stumps , tops of plants. You can sprinkle all this with river sand, sawdust, chips, weeds, peelings of potatoes and other vegetables, you need to put leaf litter, humus on top and sprinkle wood ash. Of course, the layer should be such that fertile garden soil (20-30 cm) fits on top, in which vegetable crops will grow in the next season.
This question is often asked: after all, there is spring, when you can have time to prepare the beds, and sow seeds, and plant seedlings. Yes, it is absolutely true, but, firstly, not all fertilizers will have time to go into a form accessible to plants, as we said above, and secondly, spring is such a fleeting period that in fact, you can simply not have time to do everything, as it is necessary. Remember the Russian proverb in the words of a peasant peasant: "Drop your hat in the spring - I won't lift it" (that is, so busy).
On top of that, if we prepare the beds for winter in the fall, think for yourself how much we will ease the spring worries: all that needs to be done is to loosen ready-made beds, make holes for planting seedlings or furrows to sow seeds, and start carrying out the usual procedures related to seedlings or seedlings, without rushing anywhere and without being late.
The pond also needs to be prepared for winter.
If you have a pond in your garden, it must also be prepared for winter. If fish and plants will winter in your reservoir, then you will have to remove snow from the ice and drill holes in some places: this way you will ensure a normal level of illumination and the necessary flow of air for its inhabitants.
Much more detail about the complex of autumn activities is described in the material Preparing an autumn reservoir for winter: 5 most important tasks.
The garden itself is not difficult to make:
Vegetable beds are located in the north-south direction.
All the same rules must be taken into account when breaking down flower beds and beds. On decorative beds, rounded contours look better than strict rectangular ones.
As you have already been able to see, it is quite simple to build a garden bed, it is more difficult to prepare the soil for planting with your own hands:
Now let's move on to the processes of forming the correct bed:
It is better to plant freshly cultivated land with green manure or potatoes first, so that the soil is well loosened.
A few more examples of country beds:
Did you like the article? Share it with your friends! (links below)