Neoregelia


The plant neorelegia (Neoregelia) belongs to the Bromeliad family, growing both on the ground and in the epiphytic way. The flower's habitat is the tropical rainforests of Brazil, Ecuador, Eastern Peru and Colombia.

Neorelegia is a perennial rosette herb. The leaves are wide, with a belt-like structure, with thorns at the edges. They are attached to the base of the outlet and have a whitish or light purple hue there. The inflorescence grows from the leaf axils, forms in the form of numerous flowers.

Caring for neorehelia at home

Location and lighting

Compliance with all the rules for growing neorelegia ensures good growth and a healthy appearance of the plant. Neorelegia needs bright, diffused sunlight, but direct burning rays are harmful to the plant. Leaves can get burned. In the autumn-winter period, the plant must be provided with additional artificial lighting. Special fluorescent lamps are suitable. In the room in which the neorelegacy is located, a constant supply of fresh air must be provided, but it is important to avoid drafts.

Temperature

In spring and summer, the optimum ambient temperature should be in the range of 20-25 degrees. In winter, the plant is kept in a cool room with a temperature close to 16 degrees. In such conditions, the flowering of neorelegia can be extended for up to six months.

Air humidity

The humidity of the air for keeping the plant must be increased (at least 60%). Ideal conditions for growth will be finding neorelegia in a greenhouse or greenhouse. If there are no greenhouse conditions, then the plant is constantly sprayed with distilled water. Or they put neorelegia in a pallet with wet expanded clay. The main condition is that the bottom of the pot should not touch the water. Leaves accumulate a large amount of dust, so they are periodically wiped with a damp cloth.

Watering

In spring and summer, neorelegia needs abundant watering through a rosette of leaves. Water the plant in the morning. In winter, water is poured at the root, and the watering itself is reduced to prevent rotting of the roots or rosette. Water for irrigation should be distilled a little more than room temperature by 3 degrees.

The soil

The optimal soil composition for neorelegia is a mixture of crushed pine bark, sphagnum moss, peat, leaf and humus soil in a ratio of 3: 1: 1: 1: 0.5. You can also use a different composition of the substrate: leafy soil, peat soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 0.5.

Top dressing and fertilizers

Neorelegia needs fertilization in the spring and summer. From May to September, the plant is fertilized once every 3-4 weeks. Fertilizers are suitable for bromeliads. The fertilizer concentrate diluted with water is applied to the leaf outlet.

Transfer

It is necessary to transplant neorelegia only when necessary, for example, when the flower has grown too large and the pot has become small. It is necessary to ensure that the neck is always deepened in the soil. During the transplant, you need to take care of good drainage. Drainage should take up about a third of the entire space in the pot.

Reproduction of neorelegia

It is possible to propagate neorelegia in two ways: by rosettes or by seeds. After the plant has faded, a large number of rosettes are formed on it. When at least 4 leaves grow on each shoot, it will be possible to separate and transplant them. The rosette is separated from the roots and planted in a separate pot. Next, the pot is placed in a warm place with a temperature of at least 28 degrees. Cover with glass from above. It is important not to forget to ventilate the artificial greenhouse every day. After the rosette gets stronger and takes root in the new soil, the glass can be removed and you can start caring for the neorelegia like other adult plants.

If the florist has chosen the method of propagation by seeds, then they must first be soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then they are dried and planted in moist sphagnum, covered with glass. The temperature of the seeds is about 25 degrees, the greenhouse is watered and aired daily. The first shoots can be observed after 14-21 days. After 3 months, the seedlings can be transplanted into the pre-purchased soil for bromeliads. The first flowers can be seen only after 3-4 years.

Diseases and pests

Among the pests that can destroy the plant, the greatest danger is the scale insect, spider mite, aphid and mealybug.

Leaves affected by the bromeliad scale quickly turn yellow and die off. In order to get rid of pests, you need to remove them with a damp cloth on both sides. The napkin is pre-moistened in an insecticide solution according to the instructions for the preparation. Additionally, you can treat the plant with the same solution.

The mealybug is dangerous because, in addition to damage to the leaves, a sooty fungus settles on the sugary secretions. The plant stops growing, sheds foliage and without special treatment can quickly die. The leaves must be washed on both sides with a solution of alcohol or insecticide.

The presence of a spider mite can be identified by a cobweb visible to the naked eye that braids the leaves on both sides. The affected plant quickly sheds its leaves and dies. To save neorelegia, you need to treat the flower with soapy water.

Aphids are located on the upper part of the leaves, they feed on plant sap. The leaves gradually die off and turn yellow. Neorelegia can be saved by treating it with an insecticide solution.

If the flower is in the open sun, then pale brown spots appear on its leaves. Sunburn cannot be cured, so it is important to change the placement in the room.

Due to the dry air, the tips of the leaves of the neorelegia dry up.


Neoregelia Carolina

• flowers last only 1 night
• place the neoregelia so that you can look at it from above

  • Feeding indoor plants with improvised means
  • Homemade fertilizers for indoor plants: benefit or harm?
  • Indoor plants for green walls
  • Bromeliads: growing, care, reproduction
  • Autumn worries of the florist
  • Winter garden on the loggia
  • Taking care of indoor plants in summer
  • Feeding indoor plants
  • The role of macro- and microelements in plant nutrition
  • Indoor plant lighting
  • Plant lighting lamps
  • Green walls
  • Watering rules for indoor plants
  • A new approach to home gardening - vertical phytowalls
  • Transplanting indoor plants
  • Soil and soil mixtures for indoor plants
  • Vertical gardening in the interior
  • Houseplant pests and control measures
  • Houseplants: watch out for the spring sun!
  • Pruning and grafting indoor plants
  • How to improve the air in rooms
  • Plants in the office - stylish and comfortable
  • Plant life factor - temperature
  • Plant life factor - light
  • Environmental factors of growth and development of indoor plants
  • Dormant period of indoor plants
  • The origin of indoor plants
  • Buying indoor in winter: pros and cons
  • Pets - simple and complex
  • The needs of plants for light
  • Lighting intensity and how to measure it

Nobody has created threads yet

Do you believe in garden fairies? Someone, after reading, will smile, and some will think and mentally plunge into the world of childhood and fantasy. And I .

A multi-tiered vegetation plant "Fitopyramida" has been created, a kind of vertical hydroponic farm for growing.


Bromeliad family

A large family of bromeliads (at least 2,100 species) occupies a very small part of the planet: almost all of its representatives live in the tropical regions of the New World (the Amazon basin is the most diverse), and only some representatives go beyond the tropics.

Most of the bromeliads are epiphytes: they settle on other plants.

They use them as a support, but do not draw out nutrients from them. But how do you get nourishment and moisture? In some bromeliads, the leaves collected in a rosette expand downward and form a kind of a bowl, while in others they fold into "glasses". In these containers, the plant collects not only rainwater, but also dead leaves of other plants, larvae. Microorganisms multiply rapidly in this cocktail, so the water absorbed by the adventitious roots or special scales located on the leaves is nutritious. The "reservoirs" formed by the plant are impressive: Vriesea gigantea more than 5 liters of water can be poured out of the bowl, and in glomeropitkenia (Glomeropitcairnia) -20 l.

Our reference

For bromeliads rooting in the ground, air humidity is especially important. Water them by pouring water into a funnel of closed leaves. Water quality is very important: in nature, bromeliads absorb soft water that comes with precipitation.

Rootless bromelets

A huge number of bromeliads rise from the dusk of the lower tier of the tropical forest closer to the sun. Their roots practically lose their ability to absorb moisture and serve only as a support. Among bromeliads there are species that do not have roots at all - atmospheric bromeliads. For example, purple Tillandsia (Tillandsia pyrpuria), which lives in the desert and is content with mist from the Pacific Ocean.

From the tropics

This group includes vriese, cryptantus, some nidulariathat do not have a pronounced rest period. The temperature in winter is 18-22 "C, in summer 23-25 ​​X. Watering is regular, in the heat up to twice a day. Watering at temperatures below 18 ° C is not allowed! The earthy ball is covered with sphagnum.

This group includes ehmei, bilbergia, neoregeliand. They require cooler maintenance: in winter 16-20 C, in summer, 20-25 C. In winter, watering is rare, once a week, between waterings the plants are lightly sprayed. In the summer, watering and spraying is done more often.

In species growing in the shade of trees, the leaves are darker, dense green, the underside can be painted in red-violet, red, bluish-purple tones, the rosettes are usually wide open. Bromeliad leaves, which require a higher level of light, are thick-skinned and often curled around the edges, and their rosettes are rolled into narrow leaf funnels.

  • Epiphytic bromeliads are attached to the substrate. For this, sphagnum moss, peat and leafy soil are mixed (1: 1: 1).
  • Crushed fern roots, bark of coniferous trees, coal are added to the mixture.
  • The pre-moistened roots are immersed in the substrate, straightened and fixed on some kind of base (piece of bark, branch).
  • So that the substrate does not crumble, it can be placed in a nylon mesh, and wrapped on top with fern rhizomes.

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If you were presented with a young plant in a temporary substrate, start a transplant. In a mixture of leafy soil, peat, sphagnum moss (1: 1: 1), add chopped fern roots, bark of coniferous trees, coal. Spread the pre-moistened roots in the soil. Fasten the root ball on some basis: a piece of bark, a branch, etc. To prevent the substrate from scattering, it can be placed in a nylon mesh, and wrapped on top with fern rhizomes. In such a "container" gusmania will look natural and feel comfortable.

The faded gusmania has grown 3 babies, but they cannot open up in any way, so they sit in "tubes" and dry up at the ends. How can you help them "turn around"?

The reasons for drying are likely to be found in too dry air and frequent drying out of the soil. Regular spraying is required for all epiphytes (which include gusmania) growing in nature at high humidity. In this case, the water for spraying and irrigation should be soft and not cold. Complete drying out of the earthen coma is unacceptable.

Daughter rosettes, formed after flowering at the base of the mother plant, are the main breeding method for gusmania. However, one should not rush to separate them. To speed up barking and growth, add slightly decomposed peat, sphagnum moss or coconut fiber to the base of the bush and keep it moist. Only when the babies reach half the size of the mother's are they ready for an independent life.
The best time to divide is March-April. Sprinkle the slices with charcoal and dry slightly. The root system of gusmania is underdeveloped and does not require a large pot. As a substrate for planting, a mixture of crushed pine bark and sphagnum moss (1: 1) or ready-made mixtures for bromeliads or orchids is suitable.

First of all, the so-called atmospheric agents, who do not have a pronounced dormant period, the inhabitants of humid tropical forests, some of them do not even really have roots, suffer from dryness, they often perform only an anchor function. And the plants get all the necessary moisture from the atmospheric air. First of all, these are bromeliads. Most of these pineapple epiphytic relatives receive moisture by "pumps" that pump it from the atmospheric air. They are microscopic structures made of hollow cells called trichomes, not roots. Under a microscope, they look like rosettes of empty cell membranes on leaves and, due to osmotic forces, actively "suck" water vapor from the air.

On average, from species to species, each trichome has a size of about 0.2 mm (sometimes they can be seen with a strong magnifying glass), they can be scattered over the sheet very tightly and look like silvery dust, which some compassionate housewives carefully remove with a damp cloth, and then are surprised why, with such "good" care, the neoregelia, guzmania or nidularium just purchased in the store quickly fade away. But this is like cutting off 4/5 of the roots of an ordinary plant!

There are species (from the genus Tilpyandsia) that extract up to 98% of moisture in this way, and tilpyandsia usneiform, "Spanish moss", and 100%! Hanging somewhere in Florida or Venezuela on an aluminum wire, a hefty beard made of narrow intertwined leaves, without a single spine, and feels great!
Another source of water for bromeliads is rain (in rooms - spraying). Most domestic cultivars are epiphytes, and from where is there wet soil on a tree branch or in a crack in a rock? Therefore, the bases of the ribbon-like leaves are swollen and turned into a kind of canister filled with water. In some large bilbergia, the total capacity of these storehouses can reach several liters, where in nature small aquatic animals feel great, from insect larvae to tadpoles of tree frogs.

Epiphytic orchids have a different mechanism for extracting atmospheric moisture. Basically the same osmosis, only the method is implemented differently. Half or even more of the roots are not immersed in the substrate, but stick out in different directions from the base of the plant, hang down and are covered with a kind of tissue, reminiscent of white or greenish polyethylene foam from unicellular algae. This is wellamen. Its cells are hollow and work like bromeliad trichomes: the same strategy, but differently implemented.
The leaves and shoots of many ampelous plants are pubescent to a greater or lesser extent. Again, in order to extract atmospheric moisture through osmotic phenomena. Here, the third water extraction strategy is implemented - hairs arranged in one way or another.

And the subtropical inhabitants of our apartments (lemons, azaleas), in addition to coolness, need humid air.
So all the greenery in our rooms needs atmospheric humidity. And for us, the comfortable air humidity is 60-70%. meanwhile, in winter in apartments it drops to 40%. It is cold to open the windows. The way out is flat containers of water tucked behind central heating radiators.It's great if the apartment has 1-2 aquariums. And for watering flowers, the water in them is excellent: you still need to periodically change the water, and from an aquarium with a capacity of 200 liters or more, 2-3 liters can be taken daily. topping up the settled water supply (according to experience, you can not defend!). And of course, daily spraying of flowers with the finest water dust from a small sprayer (with the exception of some species).

Most indoor flowers do without backlighting. But it is very desirable for flowering and flowering plants and for most cacti sleeping now in the dryness and coolness, no matter how strange it may seem. Naturally, it is also needed for seedlings.

The easiest way is to implement the illumination of a fluorescent lamp tube (for example, LB 30, 90 cm long - almost from a window sill). We temporarily mount it directly on the window frame. Simply.
But the light is “wrong”: plant photosystems, chlorophylls. they work optimally at two light wavelengths, 400 and 680 nm, that is, in the red-orange and blue parts of the spectrum. Plants illuminated by diode lamps or a fluorescent phytolamp with such a set of wavelengths appear dark, almost black in the twilight. What does this mean, even a schoolboy will answer: light is absorbed and works for photosynthesis.

And the spectrum of an ordinary LB tube is shifted to the yellow-green region of the spectrum and appears white only thanks to the merits of our visual analyzer. At the very least, low-power ordinary incandescent bulbs should be added here, preferably krypton ones (the bulb of such a lamp has the shape of a mushroom). The lamps are mounted no higher than 30 cm above the tops of the plants so that their power is at least 100 W per 1 mg. For specialized diodes and phytolamps, it can be 2/3 less.

bromeliad dries up even though the soil is wet, why?


Care features

Temperature and illumination

Bromeliads that grow at home on a windowsill require a lot of sunlight. However, the flower has a negative attitude towards direct and scorching sunlight. If it is not possible to provide the plant with diffused light, then it is recommended to shade the flower in the midday heat. Otherwise, bromeliad risks getting burned and subsequently getting sick.

The most suitable place in the apartment is the windowsill on the east side of the house.

In winter, with short daylight hours, it is recommended to provide bromeliads with additional lighting, which should also be diffused. In the summer, the flower feels comfortable at a temperature of 23-25 ​​C. In winter, the optimal temperature is 17 C.... It must be remembered that a long stay of a plant at a low temperature (below 12 C) is fraught with the complete death of the flower.

Watering and humidity

At home, bromeliads have to be watered often and abundantly, especially in the summer. Water should be poured very carefully, trying to get directly into the leaf funnel, as it is believed that it is the leaves that need moisture most of all. If you still cannot water in this way, then it is permissible to pour water directly into the soil.

The plant requires watering only if the topsoil is completely dry; stagnant water can lead to flower disease. In winter, watering is recommended no more than once a week.

The homeland of this plant, as already mentioned above, is the tropical forests of South America, therefore bromeliad always requires high humidity. Below 60% is already a critical mark and a signal that measures need to be taken... You can humidify the air around the plant with a spray bottle, so this should be done quite often. In addition, you can put a container of water near the plant or keep a flower near the aquarium, which greatly complements the graceful flowering of bromeliads.

Watering is carried out exclusively with boiled and settled water without chlorine. The water should be defended for at least two weeks. To make the flower feel comfortable enough, do not forget about wiping the leaves of the plant with a damp soft sponge, which should always be clean.

Top dressing

Like all indoor plants, bromeliad does not shun fertilizers. In the summer, top dressing should be done twice a month, but no more. In winter, fertilizers are applied only once a month and a half. Mineral dressings for indoor flowers are excellent fertilizers.


G.I. Rodionenko. EDUARD REGEL

Among the native botanists of the 19th century, Eduard Ludwigovich Regel (1815-1892) occupies a special place. He was not only a major researcher who discovered and described more than 1000 new species, but also an outstanding florist. Many of the plants discovered or acclimatized by him entered the golden fund of decorative gardening. Thus, the tulips of Greig and Kaufman, introduced by Regel into the culture, became the ancestors of entire classes of modern tulips, represented by hundreds of varieties.

E. Regel's long life was extremely fruitful. He was struck by his extraordinary diligence, which manifested itself already in his early years. He was born in the Saxon city of Gotha, in a family of 11 children, and lost his father early. As a boy, Eduard spent all the time in his relative's garden - he planted, pruned, dug, and grafted. Possessing a phenomenal memory, he easily memorized the species and varieties of plants and already in his youth knew the surrounding flora well. After completing high school, Regel entered the greenhouse of the Duke of Gotha. Since then, gardening has become his main business. He worked at the University Botanical Gardens of Göttingen and the Royal Gardens in Berlin, and at the University of Bonn managed to combine the work of a gardener with studies and successfully completed a university course as a volunteer.

In his younger years, passionately devoted to botany and gardening, E. Regel adhered to a rigid daily routine: from 2 to 6 o'clock and late in the evening he was engaged in scientific research, he devoted the morning to practical work in the garden and the greenhouse. In the summer, on Saturdays in the evening, I went on a botanical excursion, and before sunrise I managed to walk 30-40 versts on foot. An hour or two of rest, all day collecting plants, returning home at night. No more than 5 hours a day were allotted for sleep.

In 1842 Regel was invited to the position of chief gardener at the Botanical Garden of Zurich and in 13 years made it one of the best in Europe. On his initiative, in 1843, a society for agriculture and horticulture was created in Switzerland, and the publication of magazines was organized. One of them was named "Gartenflora" in 1852. A good half of the materials published here belonged to the pen of E. Regel. This magazine played an outstanding role in popularizing rare ornamental plants of natural flora.

In 1855 E. Regel moved to Russia, taking the post of director of the Petersburg Botanical Garden. The scientist's activities are becoming even more widespread. Under his energetic leadership, the St. Petersburg Botanical Garden in terms of the richness of collections, herbarium and library, already in the 60s came to the second place in the world (after the Kew Botanical Garden near London).

Unfortunately, not all was well in the new location. The work was complicated by the inspector of the garden, a representative of the royal court, Baron Kister, who led the case to the complete collapse of scientific activity and the transformation of the garden into a court flower farm. Many of Regel's active assistants were forced to look for other jobs.

Fighting Kister thanks to the energy and enormous popularity of Regel (at one time his duties included
teaching botany to the children of Alexander II) ended successfully. In 1863, the garden was transferred from the palace department to the Ministry of State Property.

Having bought a plot of land near St. Petersburg, Regel created the first pomological nursery in Russia, known as the Gardening of Dr. Regel and Kesselring. There were conducted tests of fruit crops for winter hardiness, reproduction of local and foreign varieties, acclimatization. By the way, E. Regel, long before G. Mayr, outlined the fundamental foundations of the method of climatic analogs widely known in the introduction.

On the initiative of Regel in 1858, the Russian Society of Horticulture was founded. He was also the organizer of the first two international gardening exhibitions in Russia (1869 and 1884). For the Russian reader ("Gartenflora" was published in German), the "Bulletin of Gardening" began to appear (from 1873 "Bulletin of the Imperial Russian Society of Horticulture", and from 1882 - "Bulletin of Horticulture, Fruit Growing and Horticulture"). Regel's literary activity is immense - he has published about 3000 articles and notes, written dozens of books and monographs (according to some sources, more than 200), in particular, "Russian pomology" in 2 volumes, "The maintenance and education of plants in the room" - a book, withstood 7 editions. Many of the publications are of undoubted value to this day, and the ornamental plants discovered by him remain the most valuable objects for introduction and selection. For example, Albert's iris turned out to be immune to bacteriosis — this feature can be successfully used in hybridization.

The name of Regel is often found in the names of flower plants: tulip and eremurus Regel, hazel grouse (fritillaria) Edward, neoregelia. English botanist Daike gave the name Regelia to one of the notable sections of the iris genus. Among tulips, eremurus, irises, there are species named after Albert. Regel named them in honor of his son, a doctor by profession, who devoted all his free time to the exciting, but difficult and dangerous at that time work of collecting rare plants in the mountains of Central Asia.

If E. Regel's activity focused on ornamental plants, then the talent of his other son, Arnold, was revealed in the field of gardening art, to which his wonderful and now very rare book "Graceful gardening and artistic gardens" (1896) is dedicated. A living monument of his activities is the famous park in Adler (now owned by the state farm "Southern Cultures"). The plant growing work of E. Regel was substantially supplemented by the activities of his third son, Robert. The Bureau of Applied Botany, organized by him in 1894, played a significant role in Russian science. On the basis of this institution during the years of Soviet power, the All-Union Institute of Applied Botany and New Cultures was formed, with which the life of our great biologist Academician Nikolai Ivanovich Vavilov is closely connected.

Leningrad
G.I. Rodionenko, Doctor of Biological Sciences
"Floriculture", No. 2, 1986


Watch the video: Bromeliads. TILANDSIA, AECHMEA,GUZMANIA,NEOREGELIA.


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