Actinidia kolomikta: features of growing northern kiwi


Actinidia kolomikta is a very decorative tree vine with original foliage that changes color several times during the season. In addition, the culture has incredibly tasty and healthy fruits. Kolomikta is one of 36 species of the genus, which includes Chinese actinidia, better known as kiwi. But if the latter is able to grow and bear fruit exclusively in tropical conditions, then Kolomikta is a true northerner, withstanding winter frosts down to -40 ºС.

Biological features of this actinidia

Plants of the genus Actinidia, including kolomikta, are perennial climbing vines that have the ability to climb any support to a height of 15 m. In their natural environment, they are found in the forests of the Far East, Amur region, China and Japan. Kolomikta grows in mountainous areas at an altitude of about 1300 m above sea level, as well as along the banks of streams, rivers and forest edges.

In nature, actinidia kolomikta grows in mountainous areas, as well as along the banks of streams and rivers, on forest edges

Kolomikta is the most hardy and tenacious among other members of the genus. It perfectly withstands winter frosts, grows remarkably in regions with a harsh climate: in the Far East, Siberia and even in the north of our country.

Actinidia kolomikta is a real long-liver compared to other garden plants. Under favorable conditions, the vine can grow and bear fruit for up to 100 years.

Description of the plant

Translated from Latin, the word kolomikta sounds like sparkling, burning. Actinidia received this name for the variegation of its leaves. The leaf blades are rather large and wrinkled, changing their color throughout the season. At the beginning of their growth, they are colored in a noble bronze tone, then turn green, and before flowering, a bright white spot appears on the tips of the leaves, which gradually turns pink. After that, the leaf blades turn green again, and in the fall they acquire a yellowish or reddish tint.

According to botanists, this color of the liana foliage is an additional adaptation to pollination. Contrasting color spots among dense greenery attract insects, thus they act as bright petals.

Actinidia kolomikta with an unusual color of foliage can become a real decoration of the site

The shape of the leaves of the actinidia kolomikta is ovoid with a heart-shaped base, they grow in length up to 5-13 cm. Thin shoots have a dark brown tint. Quite large white flowers (up to 1.5 cm in diameter) are collected in shields of 3-5 pieces. During flowering, the kolomikta exudes a pleasant aroma reminiscent of jasmine.

The flowering of actinidia kolomikt lasts about 3 weeks

The fruits have a fragrant, delicate pulp and are colored green with dark longitudinal strokes. Seeds are small, yellowish or dark brown in color.

Actinidia berries are cylindrical, 2-3 cm long and about 1.5 cm wide

Kolomikta is one of the champions in the content of ascorbic acid - its fruits contain 10 times more vitamin C than black currant. Actinidia is second only to rosehips in this indicator. The uniqueness is that with a record high content of ascorbic acid, the berries contain very few acids and have an excellent sweet taste. Therefore, the fruits of actinidia kolomikta are quite suitable for dietary nutrition.

In the Far East, actinidia is called raisins, small raisins, creepers, maximovnik and arctic beauty.

Varietal variety kolomikt

The plant has been cultivated since the middle of the 19th century. Several dozen fruitful and winter-hardy varieties have been created on the basis of wild forms of actinidia kolomikt.Old proven varieties are popular among gardeners, such as:

  • Pineapple Michurina;
  • Clara Zetkin;
  • Large-fruited.

However, modern varieties are more resistant to pests and diseases, they are able to withstand frosts down to -40 aboutC. Of the new varieties, the following can be distinguished:

  • Adam. Male pollinator. The plant is decorative, with very beautiful leaves, green in May, then acquiring a white, and later - pink hue. Adam has his own peculiarity: the older the liana, the richer its color. The small, white flowers of this actinidia exude a light lemon scent.

    Actinidia kolomikta variety Adam is distinguished by decorative leaves

  • Backyard. This Russian variety is one of the earliest. Liana is short, with medium-sized climbing shoots. The color of the leaf blades is green. The average weight of fruits is 3 g. The berries are conical in shape, colored in a dark olive shade. The skin of the fruit is thin. The taste is sour-sweet, with an apple aroma.

    The fruits of the actinidia kolomikta variety Priusadebnaya have a slightly conical shape

  • Gourmet. A medium-sized liana, a distinctive feature of which is large-fruited and high yield. Gourmet fruits are elongated, cylindrical in shape. The juicy and tender pulp has a sour-sweet taste and pineapple aroma. The cultivar requires a pollinator to bear fruit.

    Actinidia Lakomka is characterized by high yields, but a pollinator is required for the formation of berries

  • Sarah. Actinidia of this variety is a female plant and requires pollination. The Sara variety has a very interesting leaf color: the upper half of the leaf is painted in all sorts of shades from white to pink, and the lower half is green. The flowers have a strong aroma. The berries grow to the size of a gooseberry.

    Actinidia of the Sara variety has a very interesting color of the leaves - they are green from below, and from above the shades will change from white to pink

  • Tanyusha. The average weight of the fruits of this variety is 2.5 g. The berries are elongated, cylindrical. The taste is sour-sweet with a pronounced strawberry aroma.

    Sweet and sour berries of actinidia Tanyusha have a pronounced strawberry aroma

How to plant northern kiwi

The main condition that must be taken into account when placing kolomikta in the garden is that this type of actinidia is dioecious. That is, to pollinate 3-4 female specimens, the gardener will need to plant one more male-type vine (for example, the Adam variety).

Instances of female and male actinidia kolomikt can be distinguished by the structure of the flower

The vigor of the liana's growth is moderate, therefore, when planting in a row, plants can be planted at a distance of 1-2 m.

Leave at least 1–2 m between the vines in a row

We select a place and soil for planting seedlings

Actinidia kolomikta is an aggressor, its roots are actively spreading to the sides and can oppress the root systems of a number of growing plants. The distance to the nearest neighbors must be at least three meters. To protect other crops, you can shield the kolomikta seedlings with pieces of slate dug into the ground. When planting, the following factors should be considered that affect the development and fruiting of the plant:

  • It is not recommended to plant a liana near water bodies, since the plant does not like waterlogging. Experienced gardeners do not advise planting kolomikta in areas with a high occurrence of groundwater.
  • Shoots of actinidia kolomikt stretch towards the sun, but the roots do not tolerate drying out and overheating at all, since they are located superficially. Because of these features, you should choose a semi-shady place for planting.
  • Actinidia kolomikta prefers loose and light soil.
  • Liana needs support. The best place for it would be an area near the path, near a fence, pergola or arch.

    An actinidia seedling needs support

Planting actinidia

Young kolomikta plants can be planted in a permanent place in the fall or early spring. Landing is carried out as follows:

  1. We dig a rather large hole 60x60 cm in size.
  2. We put a drainage layer on the bottom - gravel or broken brick. The drainage should be about 10 cm thick.

    Place drainage at the bottom of the planting pit

  3. We mix garden soil and well-matured compost in equal proportions, add 1.5 kg of wood ash, 200 g of superphosphate and 100 g of potassium sulfate.
  4. We pour a third of the fertile substrate into the pit with a mound.

    A third of the substrate must be poured into the planting pit with a mound

  5. If the root system is open, then we dip it in a clay mash (you can add a rooting agent, for example, Kornevin).
  6. We put the seedling on a mound and straighten the roots.
  7. We fall asleep halfway with soil and water well.
  8. Add the rest of the earth and tamp it down a bit. When planting, the root collar should be deepened by 2 cm.
  9. Place a peg next to the seedling and tie the plant to it.

    For greater stability, you need to install a peg next to the seedling.

  10. We mulch the plantings with straw or withered cut grass.

Features of growing actinidia kolomikt

The plant is very unpretentious. Actinidia winter well and practically do not freeze out, so only young specimens need shelter. The first three years after planting, the vines are removed from the support, laid on the ground surface and covered with spruce branches. Adult plants do not need shelter; they can even be left on a support.

In autumn, young shoots of actinidia are removed from the supports

Plant feeding

In the first two years, it is not necessary to feed actinidia with kolomikt. Further, annually at the end of April by 1 m2 make:

  • 30 g of ammonium nitrate;
  • 15 g of potassium salt;
  • 15 g double superphosphate.

In the summer, the plant is watered with a solution of Kemir's complex fertilizer (20 g per 10 l of water). At the end of September, after the end of leaf fall, under each liana, you need to pour 20 g of potassium salt and superphosphate (do this simultaneously with digging the soil around the plants).

Pruning bushes

Pruning is an important agrotechnical technique in the cultivation of actinidia kolomikta. The first time the procedure is carried out three years after planting the seedling in open ground. It is recommended to do pruning only in the fall after leaf fall; in other periods, it should not be carried out in any case. Actinidia tend to literally leak out cell sap (they say that plants cry). If you cut the vine in the spring, summer, or early fall, it can weaken and die.

Pruning of adult actinidia kolomikta is carried out as follows:

  • each year, the shoots are shortened by a third of their length;
  • cut out all the branches thickening the bush.

When the plant reaches 10 years of age, it is necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning. All shoots must be cut off, leaving stumps 30–40 cm in size.

Adult actinidia bushes are pruned in the fall, shortening the shoots by a third

Protecting young creepers from cats

Modern varieties do not suffer from insect pests and diseases, but the plant has special enemies. Cats attracted by the scent of actinidia love to feast on young shoots and roots. Experienced gardeners recommend protecting young plantings with a metal mesh.

Cats love the aroma of the shoots and roots of actinidia kolomikta, so the seedlings need to be protected by wrapping them in a metal mesh

Video: agrotechnology for growing actinidia

How to propagate kolomikta

This type of actinidia can be propagated:

  • by the seed method;
  • cuttings (lignified and green);
  • root layers.

Seed propagation

Seeds must undergo a three-stage stratification before planting. This requires:

  1. Wrap the planting material in a cloth and place in wet sand.

    Actinidia seeds should be wrapped in a cloth and placed in wet sand

  2. Keep for two months at a temperature of + 18-20 aboutFROM.
  3. The next 2 months - at + 3–8 aboutFROM.
  4. One more month - at + 13-15 degrees.
  5. Once every 5–7 days, a tissue bag with actinidia seeds is removed from the sand, unrolled and ventilated for several minutes.

Seeds of actinidia begin to germinate after several months of stratification

After the end of the stratification period, they begin planting:

  1. Seeds are sown in a box filled with fertile soil (ready-made soil for seedlings is suitable).
  2. The plantings are kept at room temperature and moistened when the top layer of the soil dries.
  3. Seedlings can be planted in the garden when 3-4 true leaves appear on them.

Seeds are most often propagated by species actinidia, since varietal characteristics may not be preserved

Plants grown from seeds bloom and begin to bear fruit at 5–6 years of age.

Actinidia from green cuttings

In summer, kolomikta can be propagated by green cuttings. They do it as follows:

  1. Cuttings with 2-3 buds are cut in mid-June. The leaves are cut in half. The stem under the buds is cut at an angle, and a straight cut is made on top of the cutting.
  2. Prepared cuttings are powdered with Geterauxin or Kornevin and planted in loose soil in the garden.

    Green cuttings of actinidia are planted in loose soil

  3. The plantings are covered with cut plastic bottles or clear cups.
  4. Periodically moisten and ventilate daily so that condensation does not accumulate on the walls of the makeshift greenhouse.
  5. Rooted cuttings are planted in a permanent place for the next summer.

Video: cuttings of actinidia kolomikt

Propagation by lignified cuttings

Actinidia is propagated in a similar way in late autumn, after the end of leaf fall. By this time, young shoots already have time to woody. Landing is carried out as follows:

  1. The liana is cut into cuttings (there should be 3 buds on each segment) and planted immediately in open ground.
  2. The substrate should be loose - to achieve this, you can add a little clean river sand.
  3. Landings are covered with dry foliage and spruce branches.
  4. All the next summer, the cuttings should grow in the same bed, and after a year they can be planted in a permanent place.

Lignified cuttings of actinidia kolomikta root quickly

Reproduction method by layering

For reproduction of actinidia kolomikt in this way, annual shoots are best suited. The procedure is carried out as follows:

  1. In autumn or spring, the annual shoot is removed from the support.
  2. Next to the liana, they dig a groove 5-7 cm deep.
  3. The shoot is laid in the groove and pressed tightly to the soil.
  4. Sprinkle with soil and moisten.

The next year, a new shoot will grow from each bud, at the base of which roots will appear. Rooted branches can be detached from the mother plant and planted in a permanent place in the garden.

On the layers of actinidia, a new shoot grows from each bud

To obtain layering, you can not dig out a groove, but do differently:

  1. Lay the one-year-old shoot horizontally and pin it to the ground in several places.

    The shoot of actinidia must be laid horizontally and pinned to the ground

  2. Then cover with loose earth, leaving only the top of the head.
  3. Tie the new shoots to the support.

Such layers take root quite easily and grow quickly. Already in the next season, you can get several new plants.

Harvesting and using the crop

Actinidia kolomikta ripens in August or early September. This process does not take place at the same time, ripe berries fall from the bush, so they must be collected several times per season. You can also pick unripe fruits - they are laid out under a canopy in the shade, where they are perfectly ripened.

The berries of actinidia kolomikta can be used fresh

Actinidia kolomikta is good fresh, its fruits can be stored in the lower compartment of the refrigerator for quite a long time. Also, many blanks are made from berries. They are dried, frozen, pickled, preserves and jams are made, juices and wine are made.

Reviews of gardeners about the cultivation of actinidia kolomikta

The fruits of actinidia kolomikta are real champions in the presence of ascorbic acid. They are consumed fresh, and a lot of dishes are also prepared - from ordinary jam to gourmet marshmallow. The berries are pickled and also make delicious wine from them. Actinidia is very decorative and can decorate the most unsightly corner of the garden. The culture has a lot of advantages, so it is worth settling this beautiful and durable vine on your site.

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Actinidia gourmet variety description

Actinidia "Lakomka" is a medium-sized liana, which is distinguished primarily by its large-fruited and high yield. Lakomka's fruits are large, cylindrical, slightly compressed from the sides, with a very thin skin, pineapple aroma and sweet, slightly sour taste. In addition, they contain a lot of ascorbic acid, which makes them not only tasty, but also healthy. A pollinator is required for fruiting. For all its advantages, actinidia "Lakomka" is also quite unpretentious - it tolerates frosts well, and is also quite resistant to pests and diseases.


Popular varieties of actinidia

Actinidia Kolomikta

Actinidia Arguta

Actinidia Issai

Domestic and foreign breeders have long been interested in culture and have developed a number of varieties that differ primarily in the size of their fruits and resistance to cold. Gourmet and the Queen of the Garden rightfully deserve to be called the best, and due to its partial self-pollination, the Issai variety is in great demand.

The winter hardiness of actinidia kolomikta is an order of magnitude higher than that of actinidia holly. She can even survive a 40-degree frost. At the same time, vines that have already entered fruiting are more frost-resistant than young ones.

The colorful ornamental leaves of actinidia kolomikta will be a wonderful decoration for the garden. It is curious that their color changes over time: from bronze to dark green, from green to pink, and in the fall to purple, yellow and red. A mesmerizing sight!

Frost-resistant varieties of actinidia are highly valued: Pobeda, Pavlovskaya and Klara Zetkin. However, large-fruited varieties of domestic selection, such as Leningradskaya, VIR-2, VIR-1 and Priusadebnaya, are in no less demand.

The variety of early ripening varieties of kolomikta pleases. Actinidia, which have a pronounced pineapple aroma, are especially popular: Fantasy Gardens, Stranger and Moma. University and Holiday, in turn, have a pleasant strawberry flavor.

For lovers of sweets, medium-ripening varieties are suitable: Magpie and Marmalade. Sweetness is also characteristic of mid-season vines. Fantasy Gardens and Grapevine can replace sweets, and Gourmet will appeal to connoisseurs of light sourness.

The berries of late ripening varieties have a unique aroma: pepper at Aprikosova, apple at Primorskaya, marmalade at Slastena and nutmeg at Sentyabrskaya.

Actinidia kolomikta is used to decorate gazebos and building facades

  • Gourmet. One of the most well-known medium-ripening varieties. Liana is medium-sized, unpretentious, high-yielding and large-fruited. The fruits are sweet, up to 4–5 grams, oval in shape, with a delicate skin and a light pineapple aroma. It easily tolerates even severe frosts and is resistant to diseases and pests.
  • Queen of the garden. The variety is early, with average winter hardiness and good resistance to diseases and pests. Fruiting in late July - August. The berries are barrel-shaped, on average 3.5 grams. The taste is sour-sweet with a tart pineapple aroma. Productivity - up to 800 g per bush.
  • Dr. Shimanovsky. One of the most popular varieties of kolomikt. Partially self-pollinates, begins to bear fruit as early as the 4th year and is distinguished by high fertility (up to 15 kg per plant).
  • Moma. The variety is one of the most frost-resistant, rarely affected by parasites, ripens late, the vigor of growth is average. The berries are cylindrical, sweet and liquid, with a pronounced pineapple aroma. The mass of one berry is about 3 grams, and the yield is 0.6 kg per bush.
  • Commander. Male non-ovary pollinator. Used for decorative purposes and for pollination of female vines. Resistance to disease and frost is average.They are planted at the rate of 2 male plants per 10 female plants.
  • Abundant. Ripening period is early. Possesses good immunity to diseases and high winter hardiness. Medium-sized bushes, up to 7 meters tall, bear sour-sweet berries, weighing about 3 grams, with a slight pineapple flavor.
  • Backyard. Medium-sized early ripe liana. Fruits are cone-shaped, sweet and sour with apple aroma, weighing 3 gr. The yield is small, up to 500 g per bush. Average frost resistance.
  • University. High-yielding variety, ripens in medium terms, loves light partial shade. Medium-sized bushes are quite resistant to frost, drought and pests. Berries weighing up to 4 grams, sweet and sour with a subtle strawberry flavor.
  • Clara Zetkin. High-yielding, undersized, average winter hardiness, absolute resistance to fungal diseases. The fruits are sweet and sour, rather large (3.5 g), ripen evenly, do not crumble.
  • Sweet stick. One of the most frost-resistant varieties, ripens at the end of August. Fruits are olive-colored, elongated-cylindrical, weighing up to 4.5 grams. The taste is sweet and sour, with a pronounced pineapple aroma.
  • Fragrant. Bears fruit in mid-August. The berries are fleshy, weighing about 3 grams, cylindrical in shape. The taste is sweet and sour, with a spicy nutmeg aroma.
  • Adam. A very decorative, winter-hardy pollinator variety, bred by Polish breeders. Does not bear fruit, used for pollination of female plants. In sunny areas, the leaves turn pink.
  • Purple Haze. Ripens early, in August. Fruits sweet and sour, 3-4 gr, with pineapple aroma. The variety is very frost-resistant, easily tolerates temperature drops down to -35 ° C.
  • Pavlovskaya. New culture, developed in the Leningrad region. The growth of the bush is restrained, the yield is high, at the level of Lakomka, about 2.5 kg per plant. The berries are solitary, sour-sweet, fragrant, large, weighing 3.3 g, ripen together, in the second half of August. The surface of the fruit is faceted, with white longitudinal stripes. Vine hardiness is high.
  • Raisin. Winter-hardy variety, medium late ripening with large (up to 3.5 g) cylindrical fruits. The berries are sweet, with a grape aroma, ripen quickly and do not crumble for a long time.
  • Victoria. Large-fruited, partially self-pollinated variety. The weight of the berries reaches 12 grams. Fruits are green with dark stripes, ripening unevenly, from mid-August to mid-September. The taste is sweet, with a pineapple aroma. The shape of the berries is flattened, almost square. Shelter for the winter does not require due to its high frost resistance.
  • Transcarpathia. New, very winter-hardy (up to −35 ° C), large-fruited variety. Ripens at the end of September, harvesting lasts until the first frost. Has no natural pests.
  • Vitacola. New, Czech, very fruitful variety. Ripens in medium terms (mid-August), often crumbles. Fruits are oblong, yellow-green, weighing an average of 4.5 g, with a lemon flavor. Easily tolerates frosts down to -34 ° C, during the growing season it is very sensitive to cold.
  • Amateur. An early ripe variety with medium-sized sweet berries (2.5 g). Resistant to frost, drought, pests and diseases. Fruits are dark green with light stripes like those of a watermelon, cylindrical and smooth. The pulp is tender, with a strawberry aroma.
  • September. Fruits are of medium size (weighing up to 3 g), yellow-green in color, with a pleasant, sweet and sour taste. Ripen at the end of August. The yield is high. Does not require shelter for the winter. Withstands frosts down to -40 ° C.
  • Record. The variety is of medium ripening, the maximum yield occurs at the end of August. Fruits weighing 2–4 g, elongated-cylindrical, olive-colored with light vertical stripes.

Stem

Actinidia argut on a support looks much more advantageous than a sloppy pile of confused shoots

Leaves

Actinidia leaves look very elegant throughout the season. Before flowering, they are painted in a rich green color, after which they noticeably brighten to a pale green hue. In autumn, they consistently change their tone from bright lemon yellow to crimson-raspberry and dark burgundy.

The leaf plate has the shape of an ellipse with a sharply sharpened tip. The length of the leaf reaches 8–12 cm, the width is 3–5 cm, the edges are carved with small denticles. They bloom in early spring, fall in the second decade of October.

Thanks to the pointed tip of the actinidium argut leaf, it got its name

Pollination

Like other actinidia, Arguta belongs to the category of dioecious plants. This means that the regular receipt of a bountiful harvest is possible only if there are simultaneously male and female bushes on the site in a ratio of about 1: 5.

The first ones play the role of pollinators, the second ones ripen the berries. Modern breeders have bred several varieties that are positioned as self-fertile, but practice shows that this is not entirely true. Without a pollinator, the berries become smaller on them, the yield decreases sharply.

It is possible to distinguish male plants from female plants only during flowering. The former are characterized by the presence of a large number of stamens in the absence of a pistil. Female flowers are single (less often they are collected in inflorescences of three), large. Male ones are much smaller, inflorescences in the form of a shield or umbrella.

The flowers of the male plants of actinidia argut are easy to identify by the absence of a pistil

During flowering, actinidia arguta emits an amazing sweetish aroma, similar to the smell of lilies of the valley or orange flowers. Her flowers are snow-white or greenish-silvery, rather large (2–2.5 cm in diameter).

This vine bears fruit annually, it has a good yield. About 15–20 kg of berries are removed from an adult plant, resembling very small kiwi or large gooseberries in shape. Their pulp is very tender, with a pleasant sweet and sour taste and rich aroma.

It is most often compared to the scent of pineapple, although to some it resembles apples, bananas or apricots. The skin of most varieties is bright green, sometimes with longitudinal dark stripes. But there are also varieties bred by breeders with a bright purple edible skin.

The average fruit length is 2–3 cm, width is 1.5–2.8 cm. The berry weighs 4.5–6 g. The harvest ripens at the end of September, fruiting stretches for 2–2.5 weeks. Berries do not fall off the bush for a long time, even if the weather conditions are far from ideal.

The fruits of various varieties of actinidia arguta are very different in shape and size.

Jumbo

Actinidia arguta variety is native to Italy. A characteristic feature is cylindrical fruits 5.5–6 cm long. The average weight of a berry is 25–30 g. The skin is bright green or lime, very thin. Actinidia Jumbo has practically no aroma, but the fruits are very sweet and can be kept fresh for a long time.

Actinidia arguta Jumbo is distinguished by good transportability and long shelf life

Zamioculcas zamielistny (Z. zamiifolia)

Zamioculcas lanceolate (Z. lanceolata)

Zamioculcas variegated (Z. variegated).


Actinidia kolomikta: planting and care, especially growing from seeds, as well as a description of varieties with characteristics and reviews

[QUOTE = Andrii840522] If you ask, then you plan to try?

There was a branch that bloomed before the peasant, but did not manage to process it, but cut off the petals from the peasant's bud and pollinated it.

My actinidia kolomikta "Dr. Szymanowski" does not want to grow. I loosen the earth, water it, plus the rains are fine now. Two weeks ago I poured nitroammofoski. What is missing? I thought kolomikty were more unpretentious.
As in the photo, only now the leaves have turned red.
http://piccy.info/view3/6457229/f36260fab657829ad85f95c06e8f6c1d/

For comparison, under the same conditions, the argument "Geneva" is growing.

My actinidia kolomikta "Dr. Szymanowski" does not want to grow. I loosen the earth, water it, plus the rains are fine now. Two weeks ago I poured nitroammofoski. What is missing? I thought kolomikty were more unpretentious.
As in the photo, only now the leaves have turned red.


For comparison, under the same conditions, the argument "Geneva" is growing.
Not an old landing? Gaining strength, growing roots.

Not an old landing? Gaining strength, growing roots.

Actinidia kolomikta "Dr. Szymanowski" planted on May 18, size 10-15 cm, immediately after planting released 2-3 leaves, and now the month sits unchanged, only the leaves turned red.
Actinidia of the "Geneva" argument was originally larger, 20cm. Planted on May 29. The growth is 10 cm and is already curling, it is not worth a bush.
Both are in black soil with sand, I regularly loosen them. Under the bushes weed mulch. Watering every day or every other day. Sun until 14.00 at kolomikta, at arguta until 16.00.
Two weeks ago I poured nitroammophos into both of them.

Good day . Need some advice. Does actinidia Giraldi only have one variety called Tuzemka? Or are there other varieties? Is pollinated with argut male right?

Take a look here. Description, photo. - http://www.websad.ru/articles.php?code=430

Question to members of the forum - who bought it in Zilli's online store? Is it possible for them to have a re-grading?

Good day. If you want to buy Actinidia (you can't find a variety). The seller said that he could sell three trees at the complex - 2 women, 1 cholovic. I think it’s honestly. Let it be a weasel yak right її visajuwati і yak see me bout me with roslins?

Hloptsya sadіt instructed ala so shob not intertwined with children. Cover the ground with mulch. Any pus that is safe with nitrogen. More beautiful than leaves - coniferous litter.

In the photo, there are three drunken bushes planted every 3m.

Hello, tell me please, I want to plant Kiev large-fruited, purple and kolomikta 1 piece for women, do you need to buy every peasant of each variety for them?

Or 1-2 men of any kind will do?

Comparison of the weight of three varieties of Argut:

Actinidia arguta - Ambrosia.
Actinidia arguta - Kiev Large-fruited.
Actinidia arguta - Issai.

Ivan spasibo za snimky. Tvoja Issai eto jest iz Japonii. Evropa vyrascivajet druguju Issai, u evropejskoj Issai jest dlinyje jagody kak i u Ambrosia. Tvoju Issai chocem probovat. Evropejskaja issai imeet nedostatočno chorosij vkus. Casto umirajet, nevyderzit dolgo, no cenitsja v tom, cto rastet najbolee malenko-vse ostalnyje arguta rastut bolee vysoko i bystro. Ja zamenjaju malenkije sazency v pisme.Jest mnogo sortov no net u mene list ich.Jan [email protected]

Zdes vyrascivajem bolee Ambrozia Grande, eto novaja, jagody krupnyje kruglyje, vkus chorosij. Staruju ambrozija uze nikto nechocet.

Hello dear members of the forum!
Can someone tell me where, in the Moscow region, to purchase planting material of ARGUTA varieties from MOVIR such as Balsamnaya, Zolotaya Kosa, Relay, Mikhnevskaya varieties Primorskaya varieties DZHIRALDA - Tuzemka, Iuliania? Thanks in advance for your reply.
With respect, Roman

Can be purchased in the Zilli-on online store. I bought from them Tuzemka and Hybrid Sausage, There are many more interesting things from actinidia from MoVIR

The season is over. Thank you all to heaven, earth, sun, rain, bees, birds, well, kaneshna actinidia))

What sort of varieties you have here in the photo and what are the best for you?

What sort of varieties you have here in the photo and what are the best for you?

on 1 photo, an undefined variety is sweet with a slight separation, for 2 K. large-fruited - one of the favorites - ripens later than everyone else sweet fruitful (

15l for 4 years) has not lost its taste from frost, a white stem adorns the garden all season.
early, very tasty, the yield is not very good yet, 5-figured - the sweetest with some medicinal aroma, a favorite of birds.

There is no need to transplant closer. Actinidia is very well pollinated by bees, and 15m is not a problem for a bee.

Thank you. I thought they are wind-pollinated. And by age, male, or female before blossoming?

Flowering depends not only on age, but also on the condition of the plant. With normal development, it usually blooms in the third year.

in the same condition, both male and female plants will bloom for 3-4 years. Regardless of gender?

Shanovna panstvo. Who has the best varieties of actinidia to endure winter frosts without ukrittya, and at the same hour become more tasty and productive? In the middle of winter, Kyivska will be large-scaled and cholovik.

I have already two winters out of three Kiev large-fruited without shelter very well. Only the tips of the shoots that did not have time to ripen to the end, and which I did not have time to cut off, froze quite a bit. So, near Minsk, with the zm resistance of this variety without shelter, YET there are no problems. But of course you shouldn't relax, because winters are different.

For Ukraine, there are no problems with pollination. Our vines should be pretty close to each other. There is often damp cold weather and wind-driven pollination.

I came to the same conclusion in my Samara, it is necessary to plant the vines so that there is effective cross-pollination by the wind. Although there are hives with bees on the site, in my conditions this does not guarantee high-quality tying of yaktinidia berries.

For Ukraine, there are no problems with pollination. Our vines should be pretty close to each other. There is often damp cold weather and wind-driven pollination.

And I will allow you to disagree. How will pollen fly in wet and cold weather? Actinidia come from areas with very high humidity.

I came to the same conclusion in my Samara, it is necessary to plant the vines so that there is effective cross-pollination by the wind. Although there are hives with bees on the site, in my conditions this does not guarantee high-quality tying of yaktinidia berries.

Sergey, your conditions are somewhat different, and it is unlikely that during the flowering period of a kolomikta there is such humidity as mine.

Yes, with high humidity, but warm weather, when insects also fly. It is often different with us. It is not for nothing that the flowers of actinidia are arranged in the form of an open umbrella. That is, it may rain, but the pollen does not get wet and is capable of flying at any moment from gusts of wind. How, for example, lemongrass is pollinated here, because there is no nectar in it and have never seen pollinating insects on it? Also due to the wind. Actinidia is similar. In cold, not even rainy weather, if the wind direction is unsuccessful, we have few actinidia fruits, if the male plant is far away.

In my opinion this is a simplification. I have no idea how the pollen will fly during high humidity, but if it is relatively dry, I will quite believe it. Here are just a flowering and fruitful polygamy in me, she's here with the wind, I have, that's not pollinated in any way. Female plants are at the southern wall of the house and are fenced off by a wall, male plants are farther north. 100% flowers are tied. And the fact that bumblebees and wild, solitary bees fly at low temperatures is a fact. Likewise, actinidia have no nectar. With lemongrass it is easier, there are both male and female flowers on the same bush.

Osmium are still the best pollinators.
https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osmii
It will remain an hour even more popular with small greenhouses.

A very useful insect for the garden, and it is not at all difficult to create favorable conditions for its habitation in your territory :).

A very useful insect for the garden, and it is not at all difficult to create favorable conditions for its habitation in your territory :).

In the spring, try this straight ahead. I myself have read the sea of ​​tsikava.)

eti krupnee šmeli, oni jest zenskije exempljari vidov šmelej.Zimoj zivet tolko oni, ostalnyje i muzskije zimoj umirajut.Vesnoj krupnyje zenskije šmeli vidimy na rastenijach. V cechii zivet okolo 200 vidov pscol peskovych, oni zivut pod zelej kde jest pesok, zerna vynosit naverch ctoby sdelat pod zemlej gnezda.Takze jest mnogo vidov pscol zivuscich v dereve i drugije v. Najbolee krupnych pscol ja videl v Bolgarii u morja 3km na sever ot mesta kde reka Kamcija idjot v more. Oni sinije i zivut net v dereve, no v stolbikach vysokich trav, popisany kak vid zivuscij v dumajot. No eto vid

Sergej55 piset, cto u nego aktinidija opyljajetsja pscolami. U mene jest obycnyje pscoly, kotorych derzit ljudi na mjod, no kogda zacvetet moj sort arguta Praded, eto muzskij sort ocen morozostojkij, to vse pscoly bolšotrom ot 7 casov do 11 jest u mene na kuste. No na zenskich exempljarach pscol nevidim. Povidimomu opyljajutsja vetrom. No znaju, cto v kitaje na plantacijach actinidija chinensis oni derzit specialnyj vid pscol, i oni zapyljajut cvetky aktinidij.Cvetki aktinidij visjat otvartym cvetkom vdol k zemli, to eti pscut / zapyljajut

This is my Kiev large-fruited today. In any case, I bought this particular variety. But one of our young members of the forum expressed doubt. :)
If the correct conclusion can be drawn from these photographs, then I ask experienced actinide scholars to help me figure it out.

My K.K. has white petioles on the leaves, see my album.

[QUOTE = viktor150907935] but they write until there is no harvest necessarily cover. Then winter hardiness will increase with age

It is unlikely that winter hardiness will increase. For, judging by the logic, in 5-10 years the plants will have to withstand frosts down to -40-50 degrees. I have not seen such a phenomenon. In my opinion, in order to protect plants from freezing, you need to select the most winter-hardy varieties for your climatic zone, and try to get away from spring frosts with the help of shaping. For example, I have a 3-plane palmette. The lower wire is 60 cm from the ground. So, there have been practically no berries on this wire for 2 years now. Spring radiation frosts are to blame. The best harvest is always on the upper arms (180cm above the ground). I will change the shaping. Same as that of Zebrano Zenganovich (Zebra). Well, I will also try improved mulching of the trunk circle in order to delay the beginning of the growing season. An informative article about freezing http: //vinograd.info/spravka/slovar/zamorozki.html

According to my observations, winter frosts of the varieties of the Kiev selection withstand quite well, but late spring frosts cause very serious problems.
Alternatively, pay attention to the varieties of the Kolbasina selection. Bred in the Moscow region, they will have a more than sufficient margin of safety for your conditions.Taste qualities of the overwhelming majority of varieties are at a height (at least according to the declared characteristics).
P.S. I myself looked after some varieties near Moscow and bought them. I will share later how they will behave in the conditions of central Belarus.

[QUOTE = viktor150907935] write until there is no harvest necessarily cover. Then winter hardiness will increase with age


It is unlikely that winter hardiness will increase. For, judging by the logic, in 5-10 years the plants will have to withstand frosts down to -40-50 degrees. I have not seen such a phenomenon. In my opinion, in order to protect plants from freezing, you need to select the most winter-hardy varieties for your climatic zone, and try to get away from spring frosts with the help of shaping. For example, I have a 3-plane palmette. The lower wire is 60 cm from the ground. So, there have been practically no berries on this wire for 2 years now. Spring radiation frosts are to blame. The best harvest is always on the upper arms (180cm above the ground). I will change the shaping. Same as that of Zebrano Zenganovich (Zebra). Well, I will also try improved mulching of the trunk circle in order to delay the beginning of the growing season. An informative article about freezing http: //vinograd.info/spravka/slovar/zamorozki.html

I wonder how the varieties of Kolbasina keep the spring frosts? Maybe the members of the forum have experience?

Freezing? There are varieties of kolomikty that partially yield a harvest after frost.
Arguty Tuzemka and Zolotaya Kosa can withstand cold spring better.

Well, I will also try the improved mulching of the trunk circle in order to delay the beginning of the growing season.
I doubt it will come out.

Freezing? There are varieties of kolomikty that partially yield a harvest after frost.
Arguty Tuzemka and Zolotaya Kosa can withstand cold spring better.

Oh, this pleases me, since my Golden Braid is a rooted cuttings on my windowsill until spring :).
Who is familiar with the Cassiopeia variety? He, as far as I understood from the article that I managed to read, has the highest winter hardiness among arguta. I wonder how he shows himself in relation to spring frosts?

And if you treat it with iron vitriol in early spring, maybe spring frosts will slip through?

quote = Sorokin910296] [/ quote] And the arguta Tuzemka and the Golden Spit are better able to withstand the cold spring.

Is this your own experience or is it taken from the description of the varieties?

Hello! This spring I bought 5 arguta seedlings: September, Large-fruited, Kiev hybrid, Figured and boy. The seedlings were small and I decided to grow them in 10 liter pots, and transplant them into the OG next spring. For the winter, she hid the seedlings in a greenhouse, having built a mini greenhouse above them. In the morning I looked into it and was horrified, there is a whole mousepot. They dug such holes in the ground that all the roots outward, partly gnawed (it is evident that not only cats like actinidia). In general, I decided to land them in the OG (we have a thaw today and the earth has melted). Well, she planted, watered, covered the shoots with bags, and covered them with old tops for insulation. Is there a chance they will survive? Is it really dangerous to plant actinidia in winter?

Of course, I have no personal experience of planting plants in the ground in winter (especially actinidia), but nevertheless I can assume that by replanting with a lump of earth (but not with an open root system.) You can achieve positive results. It's just that the holes in the soil will have to be gouged out with a crowbar :).
Plus - after planting, I would have covered the plants a little, for safety reasons.

that when transplanting with a lump of earth (but not with an open root system.)

that's it, that there was no coma left, the mice chewed hard, the remnants fell apart when they were transferred from the buckets. So I planted it with bare roots :(


But the holes in the soil will obviously have to be gouged out with a crowbar :).
Plus - after planting, I would have covered the plants a little, for safety reasons.

The earth was dug easily, as it thawed out (but one of these days, frosts again promise). Then I covered the plants, first with a bag and on top with any tops that I raked on the site.
Now I'm worried. Maybe it was necessary to bring it into the house, but the house is warm, I think it would be even worse.

that's it, that there was no coma left, the mice gnawed hard, the remnants fell apart when they were transferred from the buckets. So I planted it with bare roots :(

The earth was easy to dig, as it thawed out (but one of these days frosts again promise). Then I covered the plants, first with a bag and on top with any tops that I raked on the site.
Now I'm worried. Maybe it was necessary to bring it into the house, but the house is warm, I think it would be even worse.

And as an option in a bucket and then in the cellar, or in the basement? Should survive well until spring. And it's not usually warm for them there, and it's not cold. I have so much worth until spring.

And as an option in a bucket and then in the cellar, or in the basement? Should survive well until spring. And it is not usually warm for them there, and it is not cold. I have so much worth until spring.

I have neither a cellar nor a basement: we_Sad: I thought to keep them in a greenhouse, but they didn't give me a mouse.

Hello! This spring I bought 5 arguta seedlings: September, Large-fruited, Kiev hybrid, Figured and boy. The seedlings were small and I decided to grow them in 10 liter pots, and transplant them into the OG next spring. For the winter, she hid the seedlings in a greenhouse, having built a mini greenhouse above them. In the morning I looked into it and was horrified, there is a whole mousepot. They dug such holes in the ground that all the roots outward, partly gnawed (it is evident that not only cats like actinidia). In general, I decided to land them in the OG (we have a thaw today and the earth has melted). Well, she planted it, watered it, covered the shoots with bags, and covered the shoots with old tops for insulation. Is there a chance they'll survive? Is it really dangerous to plant actinidia in winter?

Create a dry shelter to prevent the seedlings from getting wet.


I now have rooted cuttings of actinidia Golden Spit, Taiga Emerald, Lunnaya, Chelyabinsk, on the windowsill, and their vegetation does not stop. I have not yet tried to create conditions for them for them to drop the sheet. I myself do not know if this is bad or good. In general, time will tell.

When did you root them? If in the fall, then I think there will be problems if you leave them on the windowsill. For example, grape cuttings begin to germinate in late February, early March, and earlier only if special conditions are created. I rooted my cuttings in spring , along with grape.

When did you root them? If in the fall, then I think there will be problems if you leave them on the windowsill. For example, grape cuttings begin to germinate in late February, early March, and earlier only if special conditions are created. I rooted my cuttings in spring , along with grape.

Yes, that's just from August and began to root :). What do you advise to do? And another question - what kind of problem can arise if left on the windowsill?

Yes, that's just from August and began to root :). What do you advise to do? And another question - what kind of problem can arise if left on the windowsill?

Firstly, the supply of nutrients in the cuttings is limited, and the seedling grows precisely at the expense of them, until the root grows. Secondly, they simply do not have enough light, and nothing will grow in the dark. Well, the temperature regime on the windowsill is also not " fountain ". So you need to create the appropriate conditions for the seedlings: lighting, heating, feeding, moisture. Well, and (depending on when they were planted in the ground) transplant into a more voluminous container. I would do that, but please do not forget, that I am not the ultimate truth.

Firstly, the supply of nutrients in the cuttings is limited, and the seedling grows precisely at the expense of them, until the root grows. Secondly, they simply do not have enough light, and nothing will grow in the dark. Well, the temperature regime on the windowsill is also not " fountain ". So you need to create the appropriate conditions for the seedlings: lighting, heating, feeding, moisture. Well, and (depending on when they were planted in the ground) transplant into a more voluminous container. I would do that, but please do not forget, that I am not the ultimate truth.

Got it.The temperature regime "fountain, and even what!: D" - not lower than 23 degrees constantly, humidity - everything is also okay, the root is enlarged and the cuttings are already in the soil a long time ago, and the volume is still quite sufficient, but with additional lighting, you will probably have to strain yourself! And this is despite the south side, where the windows overlook. Apparently, you still have to do additional lighting :).

Is this your own experience or is it taken from the description of the varieties?

This is N.V.'s own experience. Kozak. I described mine in detail.

Is it really dangerous to plant actinidia in winter?
I had the experience of planting in winter. True kolomikty. But in more severe conditions than yours. They had to plant on December 20. The ground was slightly frozen, poured hot water, planted, watered. I covered it first with a layer of spruce branches, then with a piece of roofing felts, then again with spruce branches.
Tol took off in early spring, the snow has not melted yet.
And then to the question of a large layer of mulch. Under the roofing felt, right on the spruce branches, earthworms were warming themselves :) That is, under the mulch, in this case, of course, it was a shelter, the earth either did not freeze at all, or thawed out much earlier. If you put mulch in the spring and ensure that the soil under the vine does not freeze. Then I had a peat bog and I saw enough of this, when planting just in peat, this happens even without mulch. Not the best conditions for any plants.
But back to the winter planting. Everything survived. Two more plants survived, which I tried to keep in the refrigerator. They started to grow right after the New Year. I had to plant them on the windowsill. Personally, my recommendations, for the windowsill, the temperature is as low as possible, the light as much as possible. On the south window, I did not supplement the lighting. But it's cool on my windowsill, about 15C.

This is N.V.'s own experience. Kozak. I described mine in detail.


I had the experience of planting in winter. True kolomikty. But in more severe conditions than yours. They had to plant on December 20. The ground was slightly frozen, poured hot water, planted, watered. I covered it first with a layer of spruce branches, then with a piece of roofing felts, then again with spruce branches.
Tol took off in early spring, the snow has not melted yet.
And then to the question of a large layer of mulch. Under the roofing felt, right on the spruce branches, earthworms were warming themselves :) That is, under the mulch, in this case, of course, it was a shelter, the earth either did not freeze at all, or thawed out much earlier. If you put mulch in the spring and ensure that the soil under the vine does not freeze. Then I had a peat bog and I saw enough of this, when planting just in peat, this happens even without mulch. Not the best conditions for any plants.
But back to the winter planting. Everything survived. Two more plants survived, which I tried to keep in the refrigerator. They started to grow right after the New Year. I had to plant them on the windowsill. Personally, my recommendations, for the windowsill, the temperature is as low as possible, the light as much as possible. On the south window, I did not add additional lighting. But it's cool on my windowsill, about 15C.

You described the "dry SHELTER." In the spring this layer will thaw at first, then the ground under it will warm up, i.e. the root will wake up later, the beginning of the growing season will be delayed. In the spring of this year, in this way, it delayed the vegetation of the apricot, as a result, the flower buds partially left the frost, unlike the trees from neighbors.

And if you treat it with iron vitriol in early spring, maybe spring frosts will slip through?

Maybe it will slip through, but personally I am against causing stress to plants, especially since actinidia is grown ABSOLUTELY without chemistry and I do not intend to kill its immunity.

You described the "dry SHELTER." In the spring, this layer will first thaw, then the ground under it will warm up, i.e. the root will wake up later, the beginning of the growing seasonIn the spring of this year, in this way, he delayed the vegetation of the apricot, as a result, the flower buds partially escaped the frost, unlike the trees of the neighbors.

Only now it seems to me that what is frozen on top of the surface of the earth, exactly as much is not frozen in the ground, exactly where the roots are. Thawing of the earth, of course, comes from the surface, but not only. The garden is not on the frozen ground. If you put mulch on the frozen ground in the spring. Will the process be reversed to kilchev. The theory is of course. Practice is yours)

Only now it seems to me that what is frozen on top of the surface of the earth, exactly as much is not frozen in the ground, exactly where the roots are.

I don’t think that the ground does not freeze under the mulch. Now we have a thaw, I can’t test your theory, I’ll wait for the frost.

Hello dear forum users. Tell me if you buy actinidia in a container, they write a four-tap hole, how will it take root with such a transplant?

Plants with a closed root system take root well. As for the 4-year-old. to be honest, I can't imagine it, because in 4 years my bushes have taken 3-4 meters of trellis (each has 6 sleeves), except that the seedlings that are offered to you are in a container of 40 liters.

Hello dear forum users. Tell me if you buy actinidia in a container, they write a four-entryway, how will it take root with such a transplant?

I'm sorry, she was already bearing fruit in 4 years, probably. And what is the price for such a monster. And if the shipment will also cost. mad:

Immediately after you, I will add the characteristics of fruiting, older varieties. In terms of numbers, progress is evident. But even the correct numbers, from one source, is a crafty thing :)

Truth. The yield is 2 times higher, the weight is 1.5-2 times. Plus, many more do not fall asleep during ripening, which is not noticed practically in old varieties (with rare exceptions). But where are these newest varieties of kolomikty found on sale? Or at least cuttings are a question.
As well as a very large-fruited variety of Giraldi Alevtina. :).

Truth. The yield is 2 times higher, the weight is 1.5-2 times. Plus, many more do not fall asleep during ripening, which is not noticed practically in old varieties (with rare exceptions). But where are these newest varieties of kolomikty found on sale? Or at least cuttings are a question.
As well as a very large-fruited variety of Giraldi Alevtina. :).

So I wrote about the crafty numbers. :) Especially for large-fruited. If you notice the new varieties do not have an average berry weight. And the "old" ones have no "before" indicator. Gourmands can have berries up to 9g (in lean years)). All varieties are zoned for ALL CULTIVATION AREAS.
I am very far from the idea of ​​criticizing, even a drop, Natalya Vasilievna. Her job is a titanium job. But in the conditions of a completely failed system of approbation of varieties, in different conditions. Information from practically one garden. She is very valuable! But it requires clarification in many places. One variety was registered for argument and polygamy. You write about Alevtina. But this is not a grade. In principle, of course, there is no difference. But we also have shops like this. http://zilli-on.com/
In one garden. I mean the VSTISP garden. There is also a microclimate and a factor that of one sort, there are few bushes there, and according to some arguments and polygamy, apparently one at a time. Few funds are allocated for the necessary research.
Based on what I have stated above, the role of forums is growing. Today's technology allows. It would be nice to arrange a virtual catalog of varieties here. In addition, in the recently published pomology http://www.vniispk.ru/book.php?article=1&product=1&key=84 there are no unregistered varieties, and this is a large part of argut and polygamy.
So my attitude to new varieties. Of course I want to try them. In the picture of the Ella variety, the triple stalk is visible! But it is not a fact that they will show themselves better than the previous ones, in a particular garden. Plus our stores. will sell anything until you figure it out.

DVSTISP
apparently works for "yourself beloved."

No, I think this is most likely due to the fact that rather than release the variety "to the people", they want to test it in different soil and climatic conditions, which Russia is rich in, and only then zoning, etc.Plus, as it was recently written, many varieties are probably in a single copy.
VSTISP varieties are very interesting for me, because in my opinion, those bred in more severe climatic conditions in comparison with Kiev, and tested in the Moscow region, have a greater potential for winter hardiness, which will not be superfluous for Belarus. And yet, according to the declared characteristics, they have a strong aroma, unlike some varieties of the Kiev selection, and a variety of aromas (balsamic, candy-fruit, apple, pineapple, actinidium :) :) :)).

You have noticed a lot of things right, especially since you are probably better at controlling the situation in Russia.
According to Alevtina, is this not a grade? I mean, this is just the working name of one of the varieties, do I understand you correctly?
By the way, what are your opinions on this seller.

Only Primorskaya is registered from argut, but you understand that this does not detract from the value of other varieties. Not registered means not a variety. The varieties, in theory, need to somehow be tested and tied to the regions. But as? Who?
I took the same there :), several varieties. But I know a person and he is on the site. He was given a kolomikta instead of arguta. And think about resorting. Not obvious, when by species, but by varieties. This is where a virtual database would come in handy.
P / S. Kozak has no Chelyabinsk. This is the find of Sergei Lazurchenko.

But I know a person and he is on the site. He was given kolomikta instead of arguta. And think about resorting. Not obvious, when by species, but by varieties. This is where a virtual database would come in handy.

Well, they gave cause for doubts :(, and before that everything was in rainbow colors. Well, I will wait for the harvest, but the description of the varieties (well, or samples), in principle, is available. And the base should help, no doubt.

The varieties, in theory, need to somehow be tested and tied to the regions. But as? Who?


Yes, the nineties and zero did their dirty deed. The old generation is leaving, and young people are more and more bankers, oilmen, etc. dreams of becoming. And the system seems to have collapsed. In Belarus it is at least at the very least, but it is supported at the state level. Although there are also problems "above the roof", and with personnel, and with adequate funding.


P / S. Kozak has no Chelyabinsk. This is the find of Sergei Lazurchenko.

VSTISP varieties are very interesting for me, because in my opinion, those bred in more severe climatic conditions in comparison with Kiev, and tested in the Moscow region, have a greater potential for winter hardiness, which will not be superfluous for Belarus. And yet, according to the declared characteristics, they have a strong aroma, unlike some varieties of the Kiev selection, and a variety of aromas (balsamic, candy-fruit, apple, pineapple, actinidium :) :) :)).

So far, we have only STATED characteristics of winter hardiness and aromas of VSTISP varieties, and declaring and having, as they say in Odessa, are two big differences. (Wine growers will understand me). Of course, enthusiasts will have to test these varieties. In 3-4 we will find out whether they correspond the declared characteristics of what will grow. For myself, I have made up my mind: I will grow only those varieties that have already proven themselves from the best side. I don’t want to play roulette, I’ve played enough with grapes.

So far, we have only STATED characteristics of winter hardiness and aromas of VSTISP varieties, and declaring and having, as they say in Odessa, are two big differences. (Wine growers will understand me). Of course, enthusiasts will have to test these varieties. In 3-4 we will find out whether they correspond the declared characteristics of what will grow. For myself, I have made up my mind: I will grow only those varieties that have already proven themselves from the best side. I don’t want to play roulette, I’ve played enough with grapes.

Well, I will have to become one of those enthusiasts you wrote about :). I will share information on how varieties of Russian selection behave in the conditions of central Belarus.

And in whom, according to actinidії є such garna-supergarna collection of varieties? Yaki used to spend a good winter in the minds of Central Ukraine.

Culture of actinidia argut, agricultural technology, breeding.

You can go to the forum є author articles: Galina Lyubinetskaya and Vyacheslav Levenets?

And in whom according to actinidії є such garna-supergarna collection of varieties? Yaki used to spend a good winter in the minds of Central Ukraine.

Anatoly, are there really serious problems with the winter hardiness of actinidia of the same varieties of Ukrainian selection in the conditions of Central Ukraine?

Anatoly, are there really serious problems with the winter hardiness of actinidia of the same varieties of Ukrainian selection in the conditions of Central Ukraine?

In my area I saw only Kiev large-fruited. I saw a huge liana of this variety - that means there are no problems with wintering. But for myself I want to plant several varieties with different shapes of berries, colors, sizes, ripening times.

In my area I saw only Kiev large-fruited. I saw a huge liana of this variety - that means there are no problems with wintering. But for myself I want to plant several varieties with different shapes of berries, colors, sizes, ripening times.

Very well, I understand you. Himself "sick" with this culture. I set up plans. ).

I think it's time to create a separate section on actinidia varieties.
who thinks also please put thank you under this message.
So we will make it clear to our esteemed moderators that there is such a need.
Please do not be indifferent.

Igor, I have already suggested this. There was only silence in response.

Breeding actinidia in the Far East.

Igor, I have already suggested this. There was only silence in response.

There will be many thanks, I can throw this message to the moderators. I think it will work.

I 100% agree that dividing the topic by grade, we will reach much deeper penetration, knowledge, discussion. of each grade.
This also applies to hazelnuts, this has already been discussed in the topic.
Moderators are asked to pay attention to such questions.
Regards, Ivan.

I agree. And there is such a need for hazelnuts. Let's solve with actinidia and then raise the issue on hazelnuts.
We vote for actinidia so far. We are tightening up the people.

Hello gentlemen, members of the forum, since they are not familiar with the topic and generally not an expert in botany, There is a question. I now have cuttings of large-fruited Kiev taking root on the window, all let the flower buds along with the leaves, do you think it's worth cutting them off?

Definitely yes! Pluck flower buds without regret!

I think it's time to create a separate section on actinidia varieties.


As it turned out, in addition to almost two dozen varieties of Kiev and, probably, three to four dozen varieties of Russian selection, there is a lot. True, gardeners do not have everything, but it's a matter of time.
Thus, the following varieties have been created abroad: Jumbo, Ambrosia, Michigan, MSU, Kiwino, Bayern kiwi, Maki, Weiki, Miss green, Weiki white, Weiki gelb, Hardy red, Kens red, Bingo, Lucy, Rogow, Domino, Arctic Beauty ( syn. September Sun ™), Meader, Natasha, Red Beauty, Ananasnaya (syn. Anna), Vitikiwi, etc. And this is for Argut, Kolomikta and their hybrids.
By the way, the question is, can anyone know the real frost resistance and winter hardiness of Ananasnaya (syn. Anna) and Vitikiwi varieties? Poles declare that something really low frost resistance, in my opinion. And these varieties (unless of course there is no deception of sellers) in our Belarus are offered by several gardening companies (though they are resellers, and the seedlings are 100% Polish).

Definitely yes! Pluck flower buds without regret!

As it turned out, in addition to almost two dozen varieties of Kiev and, probably, three to four dozen varieties of Russian selection, there is a lot. True, gardeners do not have everything, but it's a matter of time.
Thus, the following varieties have been created abroad: Jumbo, Ambrosia, Michigan, MSU, Kiwino, Bayern kiwi, Maki, Weiki, Miss green, Weiki white, Weiki gelb, Hardy red, Kens red, Bingo, Lucy, Rogow, Domino, Arctic Beauty ( syn. September Sun ™), Meader, Natasha, Red Beauty, Ananasnaya (syn. Anna), Vitikiwi, etc. And this is for Argut, Kolomikta and their hybrids.
By the way, the question is, can anyone know the real frost resistance and winter hardiness of Ananasnaya (syn. Anna) and Vitikiwi varieties? Poles declare that something really low frost resistance, in my opinion. And these varieties (unless of course there is no deception of sellers) in our Belarus are offered by several gardening companies (though they are resellers, and the seedlings are 100% Polish).

Many of the foreign varieties on your list are the same varieties.
This article has answers to many of your questions, about frost resistance too.
http://rus.batkivsad.com.ua/polskijj-opyt/aktinidija/883/

Many of the foreign varieties on your list are the same varieties.
This article has answers to many of your questions, about frost resistance too.
http://rus.batkivsad.com.ua/polskijj-opyt/aktinidija/883/

Igor, the article is very interesting! But as far as I understood, these are not exactly the same varieties, but varieties with very similar characteristics, and it is extremely difficult to distinguish them even for a specialist, and they were combined into groups - varieties of the Jumbo group, etc.
I wonder when the newest varieties of Polish selection will become available to us?
Igor, have you met any information on the Polish variety Vitikiwi? As I understand it, it is positioned as a seedless variety?

Igor, the article is very interesting! But as far as I understood, these are not exactly the same varieties, but varieties with very similar characteristics, and it is extremely difficult to distinguish them even for a specialist, and they were combined into groups - varieties of the Jumbo group, etc.
I wonder when the newest varieties of Polish selection will become available to us?
Igor, have you met any information on the Polish variety Vitikiwi? As I understand it, it is positioned as a seedless variety?

I did not set myself such a goal. Time will appear, I'll see.

http://aktinidia.pl/index.php/odmiany-mieszancowe/ - Good Polish site for actinidia arguta. The varieties are described, incl. and Polish selection, also types of actinidia, etc. I recommend watching.

Found another cropping video, voice acting in Russian https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBq_OaqhcyM

Igor, the article is very interesting! But as far as I understood, these are not exactly the same varieties, but varieties with very similar characteristics, and it is extremely difficult to distinguish them even for a specialist, and they were combined into groups - varieties of the Jumbo group, etc.
I wonder when the newest varieties of Polish selection will become available to us?
Igor, have you met any information on the Polish variety Vitikiwi? As I understand it, it is positioned as a seedless variety?

In the previous posts there was a good video from poland. So there it was mentioned about Vitikivi. Seedless if without sawdust but with pollination and seeds and the size increases

I don’t know for actinidia, but pinching the grapes with a wire and a clamp. Yak dripped - so it dripped.

I agree with grapes, it is difficult to pull it over because of its structure of the trunk in the form of a figure of eight (in 2 tubes, figuratively speaking in one trunk), in actinidia, in my opinion, in one, the option with a constriction can pass, and I transplanted a grape bush (12 year old moldova), the pit was decent. : D, he's been living for the third year and even yielded a crop, but he's some kind of dead.

I plan to try to grow Actinidia Arguta in the Perm Territory. Naturally, I need to make the trellis so that it is covered with snow in winter. I have a question. I read in sources that if actinidia spreads on the ground, then it does not bear fruit. Why?

Someone has experience in removing actinidia from trellises for the winter, is it injured at the same time? and how does it bear fruit?

I plan to try to grow Actinidia Arguta in the Perm Territory. Naturally, I need to make the trellis so that it is covered with snow in winter. I have a question. I read in sources that if actinidia spreads on the ground, then it does not bear fruit. Why?

Someone has experience in removing actinidia from trellises for the winter, is it injured at the same time? and how does it bear fruit?

Bears fruit without trellis. BUT. This is not entirely natural for this plant. It will take longer to bear fruit. The harvest is literally formal.
It is impossible to remove an adult liana from the trellis. By the way, polygamy does not bear fruit without a trellis.

I plan to try to grow Actinidia Arguta in the Perm Territory. Naturally, I need to make the trellis so that it is covered with snow in winter. I have a question. I read in sources that if actinidia spreads on the ground, then it does not bear fruit. Why?

Someone has experience in removing actinidia from trellises for the winter, is it injured at the same time? and how it bears fruit? I would try in your place to form horizontal (near the ground) sleeves. The branches of the third or fourth order, on which actinidia bear fruit, are plastic enough for shelter.

I, too, did not prune in the fall, and now I am afraid that I will cry a lot.But what if you cut it off not in the spring, but when it is already growing, does anyone have such experience? Then cut it off at the end of May, there will be much less crying.

I plan to try to grow Actinidia Arguta in the Perm Territory. Naturally, I need to make the trellis so that it is covered with snow in winter. I have a question. I read in sources that if actinidia spreads on the ground, then it does not bear fruit. Why?

Someone has experience in removing actinidia from trellises for the winter, is it injured at the same time? and how does it bear fruit?
Through the fact that you have to try everything yourself, people go through the entire history of human existence. This creativity sits in everyone.
First of all, you are interested in the issue of frost resistance, and it obscures all other questions, and they are.
You solved the problem of frost resistance with a simple technological trick.
But what about the long growing season and late ripening of the crop?
In Samara, it ripens from mid-September. The process starts in October; the last ripe fruits can sometimes be removed in November.
I believe that we have special problems with the ability to harvest (there are no early and medium-term varieties).
I doubt very much that, at least, the theoretical possibility of the same is in Perm.
This is with all the agronomic tricks.

I also wanted to ask: I have grapes growing nearby. At what distance do the rows of actinidia from the rows of grapes. Thank you, with respect Sergey.

And I also wanted to ask. How to put the girls and the boy in, so that later they would not interfere with each other. Thank you.

Warmth came, everyone left, no one was there. Ay.

Regarding the distance from the grapes, you need to take into account the intensity of growth of both grapes and actinidia, in order not to disentangle and cut one out of the other, read the description of the varietal characteristics of the growth of your plants, watch the previously posted videos on Polish links, it tells about the density of plantings of actinidia, also actinidia loves more acidic soil than grapes makes sense to plant very densely (less than 3 meters makes no sense).

hopefully prompted the right thoughts: we_Happy:

I prompted the necessary thoughts. I won’t wait for an answer. I apologize to the moderators. How can grapes growing on a trellis intertwine. There is a distance of three meters between the trellis. And I plan to plant actinidia at a distance of three meters. Maybe I don’t know anymore, so that I would not crush the grapes. Do not I can understand how they can intertwine. Some kind of delusion. How grapes grow, I understand, it grows with me. I don’t know how to plant actinidia, so I’m asking. Why do we need a forum if everything can be found on the Internet, but for some reason people They ask. Or a forum is needed only for higher matters, and there is no answer to simple questions. Once again I apologize to the moderators. People ask simple questions and ask for simple answers. Thank you. Sincerely Sergey.

Naturally, in the first 5 years, actinidia will not boast of extensive growth and fruiting, but later it will surprise you with its ability to braid not only grapes but also 50 year old nuts over the summer, and if you plant another actinidia next to it, there will be problems when pruning. it is difficult to understand where whose vines. Isolate the useful from the tips and not just the negative in your opinion.

[QUOTE = serg_09947299]. How grapes growing on a trellis can intertwine. Between the trellises there is a distance of three meters. And I plan to plant actinidia at a distance of three meters. Maybe I don’t know anymore, that would not crush the grapes. I can not understand how they can intertwine. How grapes grow, I understand, it grows with me. How to plant actinidia, I don't know, that's why I'm asking.

They will not intertwine in any way if the trellis are single-plane and the distance between them is 3 m. Form actinidia with a cordon or fan. In this thread there is a description of the formations from the Polish site.

Thank you. So I can't understand how they can intertwine. Trellis at a distance of say 3-4 meters. Grapes are cut along the upper wire and actinidia can also be shaped like this. Therefore, I just do not understand how they will intertwine. If it is true that neither grapes nor Actinidia, I think they will conquer the whole space. Anyway, thanks for the thoughts. I did not want to offend anyone. I beg your pardon. If you can give a link to Polish articles. Thank you. Sincerely Sergey.

And why did I ask how to plant a boy and girls. The question is that I do not plan to increase the number of plants, well, maybe another girl. I plan Actinidia only for my own consumption. I think this amount should be enough. It's just that YouTube has films on trimming actinidia where It is recommended to plant the boy 10 meters away from the girls, so that the vines do not intertwine and the distance will be enough for the pollen. Thank you.

Thank you So I can't understand how they can intertwine. Trellis at a distance of say 3-4 meters. The grapes are cut along the upper wire and actinidia can also be shaped like this. Therefore, I just do not understand how they will intertwine. If it is true that neither grapes nor Actinidia, I think they will conquer the whole space. Anyway, thanks for the thoughts. I did not want to offend anyone. I beg your pardon. If you can give a link to Polish articles. Thank you. Sincerely Sergey.

And why did I ask how to plant a boy and girls. The question is that I do not plan to increase the number of plants, well, maybe another girl. I plan Actinidia only for my own consumption. I think this amount should be enough. It's just that YouTube has films on trimming actinidia where It is recommended to plant the boy 10 meters away from the girls, so that the vines do not intertwine and the distance will be enough for the pollen. Thank you.
Sergey, in the first part of your post, the answer to the question of the second part :) I mean the same. Garden care. Read above about the opinions of members of the forum Sergey Lazurchenko and vrana. About the pollination of arguta, although I disputed this opinion, the result and practice are behind them. In the case of planting 3 plants, it may be worth planting a male in the middle.

Thank you So I can't understand how they can intertwine. Trellis at a distance of say 3-4 meters. The grapes are cut along the upper wire and actinidia can also be shaped like this. Therefore, I just do not understand how they will intertwine. If it is true that neither grapes nor Actinidia, I think they will conquer the whole space. Anyway, thanks for the thoughts. I did not want to offend anyone. I beg your pardon. If you can give a link to Polish articles. Thank you. Sincerely Sergey.

And why did I ask how to plant a boy and girls. The question is that I do not plan to increase the number of plants, well, maybe another girl. I plan Actinidia only for my own consumption. I think this amount should be enough. It's just that YouTube has films on trimming actinidia where It is recommended to plant the boy 10 meters away from the girls, so that the vines do not intertwine and the distance will be enough for the pollen. Thank you.

What is the length of the tapestry for actinidia?

So far, no. The grapes have 15 meters. I also planned a row of actinidia. I can be shorter. It won't work longer. Thank you, sincerely Sergey.

And yet, if possible, indicate at least approximately where to find a link to Polish sites. There are many pages. In fact, it is very difficult to look through everything. Thank you.

Thanks again. Great information. There is a question. Is it possible to somehow download these videos. There are difficulties with the Internet at the dacha. I would like to have it in my computer. Thank you, sincerely Sergey.

Thanks again. Great information. There is a question. Is it possible to somehow download these videos. There are difficulties with the Internet at the dacha. I would like to have it in my computer. Thank you, sincerely Sergey.

You can download from youtube by pasting ss in the address bar:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTG2CQqnX6A (insert ss, we get https://www.ssyoutube.com/watch?v=YTG2CQqnX6A) press "Enter", a new window will be displayed, select mp4 360p or mp4 720p, hover the cursor, left-click, and then everything is clear there.

The question is for those who have experience in planting plants of different ages. Is there a significant advantage of a 3-year-old seedling over a 2-year-old seedling with spring planting in terms of entering fruiting? From the above, I came to the conclusion that the plants planted in spring will not give much growth this year and are sooo unlikely to bloom and bear fruit, which means that both plants have the same prospects to bloom next year.Do you think it makes sense to overpay for 3-4 years? I want everything and more, but the budget is not rubber :(

I think there is no difference. I always planted one-year-olds and 3-4 times a year, as a result, a difference of 1 year is not more than

The question is for those who have experience in planting plants of different ages. Is there a significant advantage of a 3-year-old seedling over a 2-year-old seedling with spring planting in terms of entering fruiting? From the above, I came to the conclusion that the plants planted in spring will not give much growth this year and are sooo unlikely to bloom and bear fruit, which means that both plants have the same prospects to bloom next year. Do you think it makes sense to overpay for 3-4 years? I want everything and more, but the budget is not rubber :(

A good seedling gives a decent growth, but did not see fruiting in the year of planting. There is no sense to overpay, especially since first (a year, two) it is necessary to form a bush, and only then wait for a harvest from it. in the third year, you get fruits on the branches of the third order. For me, I will not say for others, I do not know such magicians.

I want to acquire varieties: Pineapple, Geneva, Jumbo, Veiki (m, f), in Kiev there are very expensive saplings from Holland. I found it cheaper in Poland, but in order for the delivery to be justified, you need to order a larger quantity. Maybe someone wants to join?
Or are there happy owners of such a collection on the forum, from whom you can order rooted cuttings for the fall?

A cheaper option is to grow the seedlings themselves. To buy cuttings of the varieties you are interested in, I think, will not be difficult. When growing seedlings, you will gain experience and knowledge that are so necessary in the future and a lot of individual subtleties. Cuttings root well, the same Jumbo and Geneva, at a temperature of 20-25 in the heel area. After ten days, the heels of the cuttings have excellent callus, and on some of them roots. Having planted in a high-quality substrate and continuing to warm the heel area, the cuttings over the next ten days overgrow with roots in a cassette, container and waddle into more a spacious container, where it is located before disembarking in the exhaust gas, or before the subsequent transshipment.

Actinidia have been growing for the third year. Everyone feels great, they gave an increase of 2.5 m. up to 3.5 m., thickness about 11-14 mm., depending on the variety, flower buds are already visible on the shoots in places, but one BUT. A big problem with the "little man", he does not want to develop normally, only about 60cm. in height, no more (pictured). Last year I carried out three waterings with RADIPHARM according to the instructions, all the scent over time began to grow rapidly, but except for the "little man", according to the seller - DON JUAN. What is he missing? Maybe some other "Viagra"? I also have a ROYAL MIX (pictured), otherwise I'll have to order a shaman with a tambourine: sad:. (On the 2nd and 4th photos the same "little man". Grateful.

Little men develop more powerfully than girls.
I think the reason is a weak root. Maybe someone is "chewing"? I would have dug, examined the root and the surrounding (underground) area for pests. However, I would have done this before the growing season.

For interest, I will try such an experiment (photo of the author of the note): ****** Actinidia is a lonely

For about 7 years now, large-fruited actinidia has been growing in our country (unfortunately, we do not remember the name of the variety). Planted, as expected, male and female specimens. After some time, the male plant could not withstand the "hardships of life" and died. After that, three more times they tried to land the "men" - to no avail. Only once there was a meager flowering, and our patient actinidia pleased with the harvest. But after the death of another "man" last year, all the color crumbled. This year, as usual, the flowering was lush. And we decided to treat our actinidia in the flowering phase with gibberellic acid (one of the plant hormones). One treatment (50 mg / l) was enough to set the fruit. And even at the time of growth (in July-August) they were quite large in comparison with the selected Pineapple Apricot (see photo). Our actinidia will fully ripen by October and will be as large as a small kiwi.And this is thanks to the experiment. Now we can hope that we no longer have to suffer with male specimens of actinidia.
Igor and Elena ELISEEVY.

I am posting a link about actinidia Issai (Issai) True, the video is in English, but even without knowing the language it is clear, the author explains how to form a vine, so as not to grow wood, but to grow fruits. Please note that the long, thick, perennial section of the vine almost lies on the ground, it is easy to remove and cover for the winter.

I am posting a link about actinidia Issai (Issai) True, the video is in English, but even without knowing the language it is clear, the author explains how to form a vine, so as not to grow wood, but to grow fruits. Please note that the long, thick, perennial section of the vine almost lies on the ground, it is easy to remove and cover for the winter.

https://youtu.be/lyQa5fy1IfE I didn’t understand anything. But what does the author suggest there? 2. I read a lot that fruiting vines are not afraid of frost. And you need to shelter the young. I think in Ukraine you can do without sheltering such vines as in the video.

They have been complaining about him for a long time. For him, the main thing is money. It's not a fact that what you ordered will be.
Perhaps this is not advisable in the functionality of the forum, but I think it would be original on this forum to have a link in the person of the Notifier Robot
Or a subtopic for each culture with a similar link but countries, for example, we are looking for negative reviews from sellers of actinidia in Belarus in the subtopic of actinidia in negative reviews, we choose a country further, it may be advisable to divide it into regions or regions.
I think this is cumbersome, but there is no such thing on other forums yet (if I'm not mistaken)

I read a lot that fruiting vines are not afraid of frost.
There is such an opinion, but Issai comes from the Japanese population of A. arguta, in the origin of which another species or subspecies A.
Therefore, its winter hardiness is lower, but it has exceptional early maturity in almost any conditions, it begins to bloom for 2 years, which not any kolomikta is capable of, on my Issai the argut has been grafted for 5 years or more and has never flowered on it yet, although On the skeleton of Issai, flowering is annual, another issue is fruiting without a pollinator, there is practically no or scanty.
In Europe it is known by the name: September Sun. And it's worth remembering its bright, spotted leaves.
Rather, as I understand it, I brought it to the USA and named it Jim Gilbert, in Europe Sentyabrskaya is known thanks to the Polish nursery, but I'm not sure that this is the same variety, since I don't have such variegation as on Gilbert's website.
I want to acquire varieties: Pineapple, Geneva, Jumbo, Veiki (m, f), in Kiev, very expensive saplings from Holland
If I understand for the collection, but it is not worth replacing them with Kiev varieties, their winter hardiness has not yet been sufficiently studied in Ukraine, although I think many Ukrainian gardeners are already growing these varieties.
From the seedlings of the Polish nursery Clematis there is a re-grading, from the Anna I bought (Pineapple) turned out to be a man, probably Weiki, from my memory I also looked at Anna in Helsinki and there were men there, there were buds.
A big problem with the "little man", he does not want to develop normally, only about 60cm. in height
What plants grow within a radius of 3-4 meters?

I didn’t understand anything. But what does the author suggest there? Trim, so that the branches of the second order grow? 2. I read a lot that fruiting vines are not afraid of frost. And you need to shelter the young. I think in Ukraine you can do without sheltering such vines as in the video.

Victor, let's try to figure it out.

For actinidia to bear fruit, it is not necessary for it (like grapes) to climb 10-meter trees, as it gladly does in nature (and with some gardeners, and as shown at the end of the video, an unformed vine).

A healthy vine every year produces "whips", long vegetative shoots.They need to be shortened by 6-8 buds, it is likely that all these buds will awaken and by autumn they will grow smaller, 30-40 cm long, they should be shortened by 2-3 buds and next fall enjoy delicious fruits. The author of the video shows that the growth of vines must be controlled, and this is the only way to get a good harvest.

Whether to shelter or not is up to you, based on your climatic conditions. the age of the plant is not decisive, which is embedded in the genes, does not change with age.

I also have actinidia arguta (not Issai) on the site. The biggest frost in winter was -29.7 in 1970, and -26.2 in 2011. Liana is healthy and bears fruit every year, while there is no male plant nearby. I admit the likelihood that somewhere bees still bring pollen, but most likely, my actinidia does not need a pollinator.

Actinidia Issai can be interesting for many gardeners, as it has a partial parthenocarp, unlike other argut.

Whether to shelter or not is up to you, based on your climatic conditions. the age of the plant is not decisive, which is embedded in the genes, does not change with age.

I don't remember where I first heard the opinion that actinidia is becoming more winter-frost-resistant with the entry into fruiting, in my opinion, from Rima Fedorovna Kleeva, the co-author of the first Kiev varieties. But personally, it's hard for me to say what we are talking about seedlings or cloned varieties, but different options are quite possible, in addition, there are features of species and varieties.
The activity of different genes may differ with age, for example, it is believed that many plants in the juvenile period root better than those that have entered fruiting.
Regarding Duncan's test, he gives only a partial vision of the picture, so visually green shoots do not grow with the beginning of the growing season and may even die.
I left Jumbo shoots uncovered at a temperature of -28 (I'm not exactly sure I didn't have a min-max thermometer at that time) in the spring, the shoot on the cut was green, but with the beginning of the growing season, the buds did not grow and most of the shoot dried out, but winter-frost resistance in my conditions can vary greatly from areas where SAT is higher.

What plants grow within a radius of 3-4 meters?

Nearby grow: lilac, rose, lily and other actinidia that grow without problems.


Watch the video: Actinidia KIWI BERRY - species, varieties, applications - Part 1


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