Black spots appeared on the leaves of roses - got rid of them with the help of nettles

Anyone who cannot imagine his life without ornamental plants in the country will understand me. When the flowers start to hurt for no reason, their owner is panic-stricken. So it was with me when I saw black spots on the petals of my roses. The disease gained momentum very quickly, and soon the leaves began to curl and fall off, flowering stopped, and shoot growth slowed down. But most importantly, the black spots continued to spread along the delicate petals.

But I was lucky - my neighbor was a woman who made a living selling flowers.

I decided that no one else would help me except her, and asked for advice. It turns out that the roses were suffering from a fungal disease. A neighbor gave me some recommendations on how to get rid of him and save my flowers. The most effective was a decoction of nettle. To prepare it, collect fresh nettle, pour boiling water over it and leave for 2 days - to brew. The resulting product must be filtered and treated with flowers. The spray method is best. The liquid should cover the entire plant, and the rest can be poured under the root.

This broth became a real salvation for me: with regular use, all the flowers recovered.

Affected shoots must be cut off and the plants treated with antifungal agents.

Another way to combat black spot is dandelion infusion. It is prepared by analogy with a decoction of nettle, but in this case it is better to focus on watering roses in order to destroy the fungus in the ground.You can use Bordeaux liquid - this product is universal and suitable for all types of plants. Pour one and a half liters of hot water into a container, dilute 0.1 kg of copper sulfate in it. In parallel with this, prepare another solution by mixing 0.2 kg of lime with cold water. Mix the contents of both containers thoroughly. Then add a large amount of water to both blanks (there should be a total of 10 liters of liquid) and mix them. It is necessary to process flowers 2-3 times a week.

Alternatively, you can use colloidal sulfur: for this, 30 grams must be diluted in 10 liters of water.

Well, the last way is to prepare a weed solution. There are many of them on each site, so take advantage of this: collect 1 kg of horsetail leaves, pour a bucket of water and let it brew for about a day. After this time, boil the product, strain it, dilute with water in a ratio of 1:10. This solution can also be safely used to treat roses. Let no fungal disease scare you.

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Mid Summer Roses

I have quite a few 15 roses. 4 very young planted on May 22. And the rest have gained color or are already fading. I'll try to sort it out by grade.

End of June July The rose of El Toro bloomed The rose of El Toro is distinguished by a bright, fiery color. On average, the height of the bush reaches one meter, and the size of the rose itself is 8-10 cm. Flowers are arranged one at a time on very powerful peduncles. This rose variety stands out from the rest with its unusual petal shape. The rose can be colored either blood red, dark orange, or deep red. The sun's rays change hue on the rose petals. Its high disease resistance makes this variety suitable for growing, even for beginners. Roses have high winter hardiness.

The flowers are blood-red (red-orange) in color, located one at a time on very powerful peduncles, the flower lasts 3-4 weeks, the flower diameter is about 10 cm, fade over time, but does not lose its attractiveness, the petals are corrugated. The leaves are dark green with a reddish tint. The bush is compact, abundantly flowering. The rose has an original petal shape. Carved and large, they can be bright red, and bloody, and dark orange. At different stages of flowering, the color of the rose can change by 1-2 tones to the dark or light side. Sometimes, from the rays of the sun, a dark red, almost black dusting is formed on the petals. The aroma is weak. The bush has straight, even shoots, without thorns, which makes the variety ideal for cutting. Leaves are medium, carved, dark green.

Forever Young Elite tea hybrid, the name of which translates as "forever young", was bred in the USA specifically for cutting. The rose looks really luxurious. The bud is about 10 cm in diameter and consists of 25 petals of a bright burgundy, almost red color. The bush is high (up to 1 m), but compact - it does not exceed 0.6 m in width. It blooms in June and again at the end of summer. Forever Young Tea Hybrid

The Queen Elizabeth variety was created in 1954 in the USA. Narrow bushes with a height of one to 2.5 meters are formed by straight, tall shoots, on which there are thick sparse thorns and large leathery leaves of a slightly rounded shape. Large pink flowers 10-11 cm in size, consisting of 35-40 petals, open from elongated elegant buds. In the southern regions, over time, the color becomes light pink. On one shoot, from 3 to 15 roses are formed

Yellow rose kerio
The yellow Kerio rose, due to its main characteristics, is one of the best for use in bouquet arrangements. It is found in almost every flower shop, due to its visual appeal and ability to maintain its marketable appearance for a long time. The main characteristics of the rose: erect stems not exceeding 70 cm in height, the width of the bush is about 60 cm, the average number of thorns glossy dark green leaves of medium size, single-flowered stems (sometimes the appearance of inflorescences of 3-4 flowers is possible) double flowers, large, reaching a diameter of 13 cm, but their average width is 9 cm

I am in doubt about the name of this rose, but I have it under this name

Rose Lavaglut
Rose Lavaglut was bred in 1975 in one of the German nurseries. The variety is hardy and can grow almost anywhere. A description of the Loveaglut rose can start with the size of the bush, which grows from 40 to 60 cm in height. It is fluffy and leafy, with dark green, glossy leaves that are in perfect harmony with the flowers. Young leaves are at first olive-colored with a bronze tint, later darken. There are practically no thorns on the shoots. The flowers are collected in umbellate inflorescences, with a diameter of about 8 cm. The brush contains from 10 to 20 flowers, which bloom one after another. Rounded buds, spherical flowers. Roses in buds are almost black, becoming a dark red hue as they grow older. Terry petals, beautifully arranged, golden stamens are visible in the center. They stay on the bush for a long time, endure heavy rains and strong gusts of wind. With prolonged exposure to the scorching sun, the petals can acquire a light crimson hue.

And my beloved all summer blooming Sangerhauser Jubilamroze.

It has an ancient flower shape, which is so popular today, attracts with a compact size of a bush, impresses with abundant flowering, good resistance, and simply brings some notes of tranquility to the garden. The beauty of its flowers, reaching more than 8 cm in diameter, can be enjoyed for hours on end, while feeling its not strong, but wonderful aroma. Starting to describe a color, one may encounter difficulties in formulating: it is either yellow with an admixture of golden, or light yellow, or just apricot, or maybe just a warm yellow color. The edges of the petals are slightly lighter than the main tone. But it is worth emphasizing that the flowers may have a slight peach tint, and with the onset of cold snaps, pink notes appear in its colors. It is also worth noting that in the process of flowering, the rich yellow color slightly fades. In a word, the colors change with a small error, taking into account changes in weather conditions. The combination of pale apricot and yellow-white color gives a certain sophistication to this flower with slightly corrugated petals. Glossy foliage is an excellent backdrop for flowers. The abundance of flowering is due to the ratio of the size of the flower to the size of the bush (about 8 cm and about 70 cm, respectively), and often these flowers are collected in lush inflorescences. It is not unimportant that the beauty of these delicate flowers is not disturbed by precipitation. Winter hardiness and resistance to fungal diseases, above average, however, as for almost all varieties of Kordes selection

The rose looks like a neat bush of compact size. The height of the plant does not exceed 0.8 meters, and the width is 60 cm. In the southern regions, the culture can grow up to 120 cm. Strong shoots from a beauty are of the same length, and therefore do not knock out of the total mass of the shrub. Dense, large, rich dark green leaves densely cover the perennial. Flowers are densely double, 10-12 cm in diameter, nostalgic shape (cup-shaped, lined), in delicate and romantic pink-porcelain tones. The flowers bloom slowly and practically do not change their color from the sun from the rain, pink specks and stains may appear on the petals. The aroma is spicy, light. Flowering in clusters, abundant, repeated. The foliage is medium green.

Blue Nile (Blue Nile)
This is the only rose in whose name I'm not sure. When buying, I remembered something about the Nile, but when landing, I could confuse it. I ask experts to help me in this matter. Nil Bleu's large double flowers have a delightful aroma and retain their lilac color throughout flowering. They are elegantly shaped, appear one at a time or 2-3 pieces. The bush is hard, erect, prickly, with very large dark leaves. In cold climates, it is usually pruned to 75 cm, but in hot climates it blooms best if the height of the bush is maintained at about 150 cm.

Rosary in partial shade

The article is devoted to how to choose the right varieties for a rose garden in partial shade. It also gives advice on choosing the right varieties for such a rose garden.

The main recommendation when planting roses is to choose a sunny location. Yes, these aristocratic colors always show the best decorative results when grown in direct sunlight. Owners of shady gardens with already mature plants in such cases often refuse to plant rose bushes. However, even here a compromise can be found: it is enough to correctly select the right varieties and provide them with appropriate care.

Conditions for the growth of roses

First, it is worth giving a definition of what penumbra is. A place where you can observe the sun's rays for 5-6 hours is ideal for light-loving plants. Places illuminated by the sun for 3 - 4 hours are called partial shade. Full shadow - the sun's rays appear only for 1 - 2 hours. It is worth making a reservation right away that in full shade, roses will no longer be able to grow.

In partial shade, it is unlikely that it will be possible to create ideal conditions for roses, because seedlings develop better, bloom more magnificently and stretch out faster in sunny flower beds. In partial shade, the opposite is true, and in an unfavorable winter, they may even die. Roses tolerate light shade more easily than a sudden change of a sunny day with shade. Therefore, it is better to thin out the crowns of trees towering above the landing site.

Caring for roses in partial shade

Partial shade is a place under a tree or shrub, which means that the rose bush will have to compete with its already grown-up neighbors not only for light, but also for nutrients and moisture. Therefore, roses in partial shade should be provided with more fertilizing than shrubs that would grow in the sun. This is especially important during the first 2 - 3 years of a seedling's life in a new place, while it has not yet managed to acquire a sufficiently large root system.

Liquid dressings are preferable due to the fact that they are absorbed much faster than dry ones. Top dressing with leaves and mulching under bushes using compost or manure can give long-term positive results. It is better not to plant other perennials near roses, because it will be difficult for roses to "win back" their place even without them. When creating a composition in advance, you should think about the fact that in partial shade the rose bushes grow slightly higher than under the open rays of the sun.

On the other hand, some varieties of roses can show a good decorative effect in the shade. Some representatives of these flowers with a delicate color can fade in the sun literally in one or two days to almost white. Others, like Veilchenblau, take on an ugly dirty lilac or, like Emilien Guillot, a dusty red hue. In addition, in a sunny place, most varieties fade faster, especially in hot regions. The influence of high temperatures manifests itself in different ways, starting with the formation of a dried rim on the petals, and ending even with the complete wilting of an unopened flower. For such regions, a partial shade rose garden will be a real salvation.

Varieties of roses for partial shade

Firstly, only hardy varieties are suitable for partial shade. Such roses will more easily endure any unfavorable conditions. Various shrubs and ground cover roses will perform much better than hybrid tea varieties.

Secondly, you will have to settle for one-time flowering bushes, because they tolerate shading much better. Due to their biological characteristics, they spend more energy on growth than re-flowering. Therefore, the effect of penumbra will affect them much less.

Thirdly, it is worth paying attention to varieties with a short list of "relatives". Hybrids of specific roses are more easily adaptable to different conditions than those that were bred after repeated crossing of different varieties.

Also, old Damascus, Gallic, Bourbon, Portland and wrinkled rose hybrids can be safely planted in the shade of shrubs and trees.

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Insect control methods on the site

There are several ways that will help in pest control, they can be conditionally divided into 3 groups:

Affected roses can be treated with insecticides, folk remedies, or collected insects by hand.

Mechanical methods of insect control

  • single aphids are collected by hand. They should be crushed and that will be enough
  • then wash off with warm water or use a soap solution.

It is necessary to wash off the aphids with a jet of water with good pressure so that the insect falls to the ground. Otherwise, the procedure will not bring the desired result.

Folk ways

We are talking about decoctions of herbs, plants that do not kill insects, but scare them away. Such methods are not effective if a colony of aphids has settled on the site, which is actively multiplying.

What will help scare off pests:

  1. Broth of tobacco, chamomile, celandine.
  2. Strong infusion of fresh potato tops.
  3. You can brew onion heads, garlic cloves.

Any herbs, plants with an unpleasant, pungent odor will do. You can brew yarrow, dope herb.

How to prepare a decoction, recipe:

  • in a ratio of 1 to 4, mix the ingredients
  • leave the broth overnight or put on the stove and boil for half an hour
  • then cool it down to room temperature and use it as directed.

Ash broth is distinguished by a good performance, how to prepare it:

  1. 400 grams of ash is dissolved in 10 liters of water.
  2. Put on fire and boil for 2 hours.

Then large pieces of ash are removed, the solution is cooled and used to treat roses and plants that have been attacked.

Chemical treatments or insecticides to help

When pests have safely settled in a flower garden or on an area and cause serious damage, you can get rid of them with the help of professional drugs. But this procedure has its drawbacks, and not all preparations are suitable for treating roses.

What are the disadvantages of professional tools:

  • can spoil the smell of flowers, harm a person
  • you need to work with such products using protective equipment: mask, dressing gown, glasses
  • not all insecticides are suitable for treating roses, some can destroy the bush.

When processing flowers, preference is given to natural insecticides, it is believed that they will not harm the plants, will not seriously change its aroma.

How gardeners process bushes, a list of drugs:

  1. Py Spray Garden Insect Killer.
  2. Doff All in One Bug Spray.

The products are made from natural ingredients, including Dalmatian chamomile. Such insecticides will not cause serious harm to rose bushes, as well as to the environment.

Attention! But the most effective in the fight against pests are intestinal preparations. They are resorted to when other methods of fighting aphids do not bring results.

The desire to grow on the site or decorate a flower garden with rose bushes often visits gardeners. Beautiful and delicate flowers will complement the garden, personal plot. But do not forget that plants need care. The best prevention of diseases and pests on the site is to ensure proper conditions.

Fighting winged aphids

Regardless of which insect attacked tomatoes, aphids or mosquitoes, both pests can pose a threat to the crop, so it is necessary to remove them from the site. It will be more difficult to expel the winged aphid. Large-scale damage can force the gardener to use chemicals, however, during the flowering period, when a pest infestation is usually observed, the use of pesticides is limited.

Specialized drugs

The most effective among the chemicals for winged aphids are systemic insecticides. The preparations guarantee long-term protection, but they are highly toxic and are removed from plant tissues for a long time. A more suitable option would be intestinal contact agents such as Aktara or Decis Profi. The active substances of these funds are removed much faster.

The safest option, which is optimal for processing tomatoes in greenhouses, is biological pesticides - Fitoverm, Aversectin, Aktofit. To combat midges, it will take about 3 sprays with an interval of 5-7 days.

Folk remedies

It is worth starting the treatment of bushes with the use of folk remedies, not least because of their safety for pollinating insects (even biopesticides pose a threat to beneficial insects). But with their help, it will be possible to remove only a small population of pests, while processing should be carried out several times.

Strongest home remedies for aphids:

  1. Soap and wood ash. Dissolve 20 g of soap shavings in a bucket of warm water and mix with 250 g of wood ash.
  2. Vinegar. A tablespoon of vinegar is dissolved in a liter of water and the planting of tomatoes is sprayed. The dosage is indicated for 9% vinegar, respectively, 3% for the same volume of water will require 3 tablespoons.
  3. Garlic, pepper, mustard. Chopped teeth from 2 heads of garlic, 2 tablespoons of red hot pepper and 6 tablespoons of mustard powder should be poured with a bucket of hot water and infused for 2-3 days. It is better to carry out the treatment not by spraying, but by wetting the leaves, paying special attention to the lower tier of the bush.

Diseases of roses - how to treat and keep the "Queen of the Garden" healthy

Florists who do not like roses are very rare. This graceful and noble flower is so beautiful that it conquers the hearts of all the inhabitants of the planet, and besides, its cultivation is a pleasure.

By placing the rose garden in a well-lit area, providing proper nutrition and watering, you can get in return a picturesque corner filled with delicate buds from early summer to late autumn.

But there are also unpleasant incidents: sometimes green bushes are affected by diseases of roses, which, with the right approach, can really be cured and even prevented.

The rose is called the “Queen of the Garden,” and this is due to its beautiful flowers - large, full, double and fragrant buds of all kinds of shades. She looks great with many plants paired, and is also gorgeous in solo performance.

It is respected for its long flowering and long-term stay in one place, but difficulties arise during cultivation - the bushes are overcome by powdery mildew, aphids, late blight and many other diseases and pests, the leaves turn yellow, darken, crumble, the buds become smaller, and the culture dies.

To fight them, you need to understand the causes of fungi. Possibly, agrotechnical conditions were violated (waterlogged soil, infection in near-trunk mulch, cold and rainy summer).

You also need to make sure of the nature of the disease and identify its focus or insect nest, and then start treating the bush. And you should definitely take preventive measures, the health of the plant depends on them.

Other causes of infection:

  • Failure to comply with the rules of hygiene when pruning shoots.
  • Over-saturation and stagnation of moisture.
  • Lack of sunlight.
  • The wrong variety for the climatic zone.
  • Lack of nutrients and fertilizers in the soil.
  • Finding an infected plant or tree nearby.
  • Lack of preventive spraying in the spring.

And this is not the whole list.

The queen of the garden is loved not only by people, but also by insects, which just let them feast on the vital juices of an exquisite plant. But for each of them there is a way to get rid of. Most often, they appear from carelessness or rare inspection of foliage.

Plant diseases are divided into several groups and are amenable to certain treatment, depending on the severity of the lesion, a drug is prescribed. Classification of diseases:

  • Infectious.
  • Non-infectious.

When a group is identified, the disease itself is determined and a solution of one or another drug is prepared, after which the bush is sprayed and processed.

You can determine the resistance of immunity even at the stage of buying a seedling. If the variety is resistant to infection, then on the surface of the leaves and shoots there is a kind of waxy coating that protects against the penetration of bacteria into the depths, and the greens are crispy and dense.

The classification of infectious diseases includes many disease-causing infections caused by fungi and viruses. This list includes powdery mildew, a fairly common disease that affects almost all horticultural and horticultural crops. Control measures should be started immediately, with the appearance of a white bloom on the leaves. If this is not done, dew will grow and destroy the plants.

Signs of a fungus: a powdery white, gray-white bloom in the form of scattered flour is visible on the shoots, leaves and buds, after ripening the mycelium emits drops of "dew", hence its name.

Towards the end of the season, the disease takes on a brown hue and forms dark brown spores. Manifestations are also noticeable on roses. They stop growing, the buds become smaller and do not bloom, the leaves fall off.

Most often it affects crops in early summer, when temperature drops are observed - hot during the day, and cool and damp at night.

Control measures and prevention. First of all, it is necessary to carry out the autumn and spring treatment of the bushes with preparations based on copper (copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, etc.).

Spraying is carried out after the foliage has fallen off (it is collected and burned away from the garden) and before flowering in spring. A good result is shown by a mixture of a solution of copper sulfate (15 g), laundry soap (200-300 grams) and 50 grams of baking soda.

In addition, they use Fundazol, Benomil, Tsineb, Fitosporin. In addition to processing bushes, it is important:

  • Observe the distance between plants when planting.
  • Avoid the formation of weeds.
  • Loosen the ground more often.
  • In the spring, it is imperative to apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to the trunk circle.
  • As a preventive measure, send the leaves with wood ash.
  • In the fall, carry out an annual digging of soil, pruning shoots and removing foliage outside the garden.

Most of the problems are associated with a violation of agricultural technology, but if you follow it, you can prevent plants from attacking powdery mildew. Most resistant varieties: Wedding Bells, New Dawn, Uterson Rosarium, William Shakespeare 2000.

All gardeners know such a disease of roses as black spot. It affects most bushes and is widespread throughout the world. Breeders create varieties that are more resistant to it, but there are too few of them, and after 1-2 years the bushes weaken and still become stained. These include: American Pillar, Rose de Molinard, Chantal Merier, etc.

The first signs of the disease are already visible in June-July on weak and old plants, and closer to autumn it affects resistant and young hybrids.

Brown, gradually blackening spots of round, oval and blurred shapes appear on the leaves, the infected area is highlighted with a yellow edging and becomes more noticeable.

The size of the spots reaches 16 mm and varies depending on the severity; several outbreaks of the disease occur during the season.

Most often, the fungus covers the entire surface of the leaf, it curls and falls off. The same trouble can happen with a part of the shoot, it stiffens and dries up. The greatest danger of spotting is to young seedlings, which form new leaves after the damaged ones fall. This takes a lot of energy and vital juices, the plant weakens and inhibits development or freezes in the winter cold.

Treatment begins at the first sign of illness. The set of activities includes:

  • Pruning and complete removal of affected and fallen parts of the rose.
  • Spraying the bush with copper-containing preparations (copper sulfate, Abiga-Peak) 2-4 times in 8-10 days.
  • Disinfection of near-stem soil with Fitosporin solution 2-3 times in between spraying.
  • Seasonal pruning in autumn and treatment with iron vitriol.
  • Spraying an open bush in the spring.

Copper-containing preparations and fungicides include Bordeaux mixture, Previkur Energy, Skor, Topaz, Fundazol, Ordan, Profit Gold. All substances are diluted according to the instructions, and when using them, gloves and a gauze bandage are worn.

As a preventive measure, iron vitriol, Hom, Fitosporin, Strobi are used.

From folk remedies, the following turned out to be effective: a mixture of iodine (1 ml) and water (400 ml), as well as a decoction of onion or garlic husks, which will require a large handful of half a liter of water, bring to a boil and leave for 8 hours.

After filtering, the liquid is ready for use, it is treated with the entire surface of the bush and the trunk circle is spilled. During the flowering period, only the leaves are wiped, and watering is carried out at the root, so as not to stain the rose petals.

The appearance of a fine, bright yellow powder on greenery and rose flowers indicates that the culture is infected with rust. The phenomenon is quite common and treatable, so do not despair. Symptoms usually begin in mid-June. Late spring - early summer is the most dangerous time for plants.

Signs of rust: The first spots appear on the stems and then on the leaves, buds and flowers.

It looks like a fine bright yellow powder, which is scattered over the entire surface of the greenery or in separate parts, with its formation, the stems and shoots begin to crack, which leads to the drying out of the bush.

As the fungus takes root, the spots grow and acquire a brown tint, and the spores are carried by air and insects.

By autumn, the plant loses its foliage, the shoots are bent and deformed, the buds wither, and gradually the life of the flower stops. Rust spores settle deep into the branches and it is simply impossible to etch them out by contact; more effective methods are needed.

Getting rid of the fungus is real, but it is better to do it at the initial stage. Having noticed a golden blotch, the shoots are immediately cut as low as possible, all the removed parts are collected, foliage and burned, and the remaining stems are treated with 3% iron sulfate.

Spring begins with cleaning the trunk and the ground around the bush, this is done with fungicides and copper-containing agents. During the season, before and after flowering, prophylaxis is carried out with Bordeaux liquid.

Traditional methods in this case are powerless, they only strengthen the immune system and increase resistance to pathogens. An infusion of nettle or wormwood will help in this. To do this, freshly harvested plants are placed in a container and poured with rainwater, left in the sun for 2 weeks.

When the solution is fermented, it is diluted with water in a ratio of 1 liter to 9 and poured under the root.

Fungicides that will help to cope with rust on roses - Falcon, Strobi, Topaz and the like.

Another fungal disease is gray rot. This problem is widespread among gardeners and gardeners, and most crops suffer from it, not just decorative flowers. The source of rot is a fungus that lives in the soil and grows in damp and rainy weather, with stagnant and waterlogged soil.

Weak and young shoots suffer the most from the attack of rot. The disease spreads from top to bottom, therefore, first, mold appears on the flowers, leading to the complete destruction of the bud, moves to the stem and leaves. All the weakened greens crumble, and the shoots wither, growth inhibits, the plant begins to rot completely and dies. The picture is not the most pleasant, but you can fix it.

To resist all types of pathogenic infections, plants must be fed with potassium and phosphorus in time, strengthening the immune system, enriching them with organic matter and removing dry grass, foliage and buds. We must not forget about prophylactic spraying with fungicides and vitriol.

Among gardeners, the following biofungicides enjoy positive reviews:

  • Fitosporin.
  • Trichophyte.
  • Mikosan.
  • Teldor.
  • Fundazol.
  • Switch.

No matter how strange it may sound, but yes, roses also get cancer. This is a rather complex disease caused by bacteria of the genus Agrobacterium, which live on the site for more than four years and are carried around the garden when transplanting flowers. Their impact on the culture is negative - the shrub withers, loses its vitality, the colors fade, and it simply dries up.

The first signs of the disease are lumpy growths on the root neck of the rose.

Depending on the severity of the disease, they harden and acquire a dark shade, at first they are light and soft in texture, and then dark brown, tree-like, and at the last stage they rot.

The precursors of the situation are wounds and cracks on the trunk of the plant, into which the bacteria penetrate and begin to activate.

To prevent cancer, you should:

  • When planting new bushes, spill the soil with boiling water or potassium permanganate.
  • Do not damage the roots.
  • Allow the plot to "walk" for at least 5 years, and then resume planting rose bushes.
  • Pruning is carried out in early spring, when there is still no sap flow.
  • All wounds and breaks should be immediately treated with garden varnish or manganese solution.
  • Dig up and process the land plot with copper sulfate or Fundazol.

It is impossible to take material for propagation and propagation from the affected bushes, it is advisable to rid the rose garden of the infected plant at an early stage.

In case of injuries, cracks or all kinds of damage to the stem, a wound is formed, which subsequently causes harm.Through an open area, fungi and bacteria penetrate deep into the flower, causing a decrease in immunity and serious problems of garden crops.

There are several types of cortical necrosis:

Name Symptoms Treatment and prevention
Infectious burn (bark cancer) They develop under a winter shelter, there is a high probability of the excitation of a fungus under polyethylene, where humidity remains and air circulation stops. Blackening surrounding the stem, reddish-brown spots, tuberosity and light areas of the bark become important symptoms. Cracks, ulcers appear on the trunk, and it withers Does not respond to treatment. As a preventive measure, in the first place is the removal of the infected area of ​​the rose and the correct shelter for the winter.
European cancer An indicator of the disease is a longitudinal "wound" with a raised callus, ie, the formation of a build-up along the edge of the crack. Occurs on ramifications and root collars The affected areas should be removed and burned. Observe the technology of the winter shelter. Spray with iron sulfate
Diplodious necrosis of the cortex The trunk of the rose becomes dark brown and forms many small cracks, on which growths are visible Timely pruning of the affected shoot and treatment with copper-containing preparations
Tubercular necrosis Disease of the bark, isolated by the formation of soft bumps of a pink-red hue, over time the color changes to brown, and the bark itself dries up, cracks and dies Copper sulfate pruning and shedding
Cytosporosis The bark acquires the texture of a sponge, becomes covered with bumps, from which a golden liquid is released The same actions

In addition to the above, the main diseases, there are a number of "additional", but less dangerous problems, although when they are launched, there is still harm to the plant. These include:

  • Mosaic rash virus.
  • Striped roses.
  • Garden beetle (pest).
  • Aphids.
  • Weevil.
  • Rose sawfly.

To rid the Queen of the garden from pests, they use a mechanical method - they collect the larvae and insects by hand, after which they are sprayed with a wide range of insecticides. You can fight aphids with soapy water or homemade weed infusion.

Diseases can even affect a room rose.

The trouble comes from the soil taken in the garden or when the rules of maintenance are violated (overflow, stagnant moisture, coolness in the room, shade, neighborhood with infected plants).

In this case, the pot and the soil are changed, the roots are washed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, the diseased areas are cut off with disinfected scissors, and the bush itself is treated with fungicides and planted in new soil.

Watch the video: Common Rose Diseases

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