Beauty camellia - the queen of home flowers


This beautiful flower is known in almost all corners of the world where plants can live. Many dream of growing it, but then abandon their idea, having heard stories from other flower growers that it was not possible to adequately tame this beauty to home life. Indeed, a beautiful and proud plant, as evidenced by luxurious photos, which in nature almost becomes a tree, at home for some reason begins to be capricious and wither. Nevertheless, there are a sufficient number of examples of successful cultivation of camellia in four walls, which means that there are certain rules, following which you can count on the fact that in your house, with proper care, camellia will bloom no worse than under the blue sky.

Description of camellia and its variety

The birthplace of camellia is called Japan, or rather, the island of Okinawa, where this plant grows up to five meters in height (although the Japanese camellia can reach a height of 15 meters), having the shape of either a bush or a tree. It is the basis of the local forests, where it receives all the conditions necessary for growth and flowering. However, you can find camellia in Indochina, Korea, Malaysia, the Philippines, Java and the Sulawesi Islands. The home variety of camellia, of course, is not so high, but it also takes up a lot of space, so it is not recommended to grow it in apartments with a small area. Its leaves have a rich green color and a glossy surface. The edges of the leaves are very sharp, so it is best to handle them with care so as not to cut yourself.

In the open air, camellias show their full power, growing into huge shrubs and full-fledged trees

The flowers are almost always lush, and in some species they can be simple, in others - double. There are camellias with white, pink, dark crimson and other shades. In other words, this flower is diverse, unique and always gorgeous. But growing it at home is not an easy task, but if you succeed, you can witness the wonderful winter camellia bloom, which can last up to three months. At this time, the plant is almost completely covered with flowers and is a unique sight.

Camellia has an excellent appearance during flowering, but the vast majority of varieties are odorless with rare exceptions.

And to find out about this exception, you need to consider the main types of camellia grown at home. And this, first of all, Japanese camellia, mountain, net and various hybrids of these species.

Indoor species and varieties

Let's start with Japanese camellia. This is one of the tallest camellias found in the vastness of China, Korea and Japan. The plant reaches a height of 15 meters and more and has pointed leaves, serrate at the edges. Their surface is so glossy that it can glare and reflect the sun's rays. Nevertheless, the most comfortable condition for this flower is partial shade. Many decorative varieties with a wide variety of colors originated from the Japanese camellia, and their flowering can begin as early as October and last until April.

Mountain camellia (otherwise it is called sasanqua) - grows up to 5 meters in height, and its shoots, depending on the variety, can either hang or be erect. The leaves are shaped more like an egg with a serrated edge. From above they are dark green, from below in the vein area there is a weak pubescence. Bloom begins in September and stops in January. And this is the case when the flowers have a pleasant smell. It is gratifying that this species is almost better than many others adapted to living at home.

Mesh camellia (another name is reticulata) is a species recognized by all flower growers in the world, in which some varieties have flowers up to 20 cm in diameter. There is a special category of so-called chimeras, the flowers of which have overflows and colored strokes.

It is necessary to highlight the Chinese camellia (tea or tea bush), which can grow both in the form of shrubs and in the form of trees. Elliptical leaves of this species also have a serrated edge, and those leaves that have just opened are covered with a white edge. Flowers in the axils are collected in pairs or three and exude a delicate aroma.

You can also recall Williams' hybrids, which were obtained by crossing Japanese and mesh camellias. They are widespread in European countries and, in addition to their beautiful appearance, are distinguished by enviable vitality.

Briefly, it is necessary to mention the rare and original varieties - the Middlebury pink camellia (a unique color, quite rare) and red, early-flowering Olina (olive, blooms in the second half of autumn).

Photo gallery of species and varieties of camellia

Conditions of detention

To keep camellia at home, you need to comply with the requirements for each season, since the health of the plant greatly depends on this. Even a small deviation from the norm can provoke the onset of the disease and the subsequent wilting of the camellia.

Table: Conditions for keeping camellia at different times of the year

Recently, the so-called florariums have become very popular - compositions from domestic plants placed in a glass container, starting from a decorative glass and pumping them with an aquarium. There is also a floor version that can reach a height of up to two meters. Florariums are divided into indoor and outdoor, the former of which are good for tropical plants that love high humidity, and the latter for succulents that prefer a dry atmosphere.

Camellia is difficult to attribute to the flowers recommended for growing in the florarium - it did not come out in size, and its care is much more difficult than for many other flowers

Of course, many people have a question - how well is camellia suitable for a florarium? A clear and unambiguous answer to this question is difficult to formulate, but one thing can be said with certainty: camellia is an unobvious option for a florarium, and there are reasons for this. Firstly, the domesticated camellia, although not like its forest and mountain counterparts in terms of size, still has rather large dimensions, and only a very large aquarium or a special glass box can accommodate it, which requires a lot of space and financial costs. Secondly, camellia has its own specifics, which is expressed in the fact that it is not possible to constantly keep high humidity far from all year round. Camellia, although it does not like drafts, needs an influx of fresh air, and during a period of stagnant humidity it can quickly get sick. In addition, you will have to regularly monitor the state of soil moisture - at a time when the flower grows buds and begins to bloom, the earth needs to be kept moist at a constant level. But during the growing season, the soil can be dried between waterings.

The conclusion is obvious: it is much easier and more efficient to grow camellia as an independent plant in a pot. And not every pot is suitable: the best options are oak tubs or unglazed ceramic pots. Both must be large. In such a container, you can quickly move the camellia from light to partial shade when necessary. And to maintain the desired humidity, you can purchase an air humidifier.

Video: Camellia - care and features

Planting and transplanting

You can often hear that the best time for camellia to bloom is from November to February. But what about, you say, because at this time the camellia begins to bloom actively, and a transplant can destroy this wonderful phenomenon? In fact, it all depends on the accuracy of your actions. Careless handling of a clod of earth during transplanting can damage it and expose the roots, which will put an end to all your efforts. As well as careful actions will not bring any harm to the flower. If you are afraid to do something with the camellia during the flowering period, leave the venture with a transplant at the end of this period. In general, it is recommended to transplant camellia no more than once every 2 to 3 years. But how do you do it right?

Camellia is transplanted infrequently and is done only if absolutely necessary.

First you need to consider what kind of soil camellia loves. First of all, it is light, well-drained and moist soil. In addition, it must be acidic, since an alkaline environment is a destructive phenomenon for camellia. The situation is hardly better with a soil of neutral acidity.

Of course, the easiest way is to buy a ready-made soil mixture - they usually acquire a composition for azalea or rhododendron, which also develop in an acidic environment. This includes crushed tree bark, high moor peat, perlite, sand and vermiculite.

You can prepare the soil yourself, but be sure to consider your possibilities for watering. If you are ready to supply the flower with moisture on a daily basis, then it will be enough to make a light mixture of perlite and sand, which has excellent aeration. If you can visit camellia once or twice a week, then they add high peat and vermiculite. These components retain moisture for much longer. By the way, there is an opinion that peat can be replaced with finely chopped coniferous bark, since it has a water-repellent property.

As you can see, preparing the soil for camellia is a separate process, and therefore immediately be prepared for the fact that the land taken from your garden plot is not suitable for planting. It’s not too easy anywhere.

Soil for camellia should be as light and drained as possible so that moisture does not stagnate at the roots.

As you already understood, camellia pots should be large. There must be drainage holes in the lower part. Sometimes camellia roots tend to protrude from these holes, in which case you can trim them or leave them alone - they will dry out on their own. The bottom layer can also be drained. For this, gravel and sand are suitable. The only thing is that the drainage needs to be mixed with the ground, it is highly undesirable to plant camellia on it with bare roots.

Repotting should only be done if the current plant pot is obviously small. If, after 2 - 3 years, you have not seen obvious changes for the worse (camellia grows rather slowly, so you should not be surprised), then it is enough just to change the top layer of the earth (3 - 5 cm).

The very process of planting and transplanting on paper looks quite simple:

  1. Water the camellia so that an earthen lump forms on the roots.
  2. We very carefully remove the plant from the pot so that the lump does not fall apart and the roots are not damaged.
  3. We immerse the camellia in a new pot, where a drainage layer has already been prepared (on average, about 5 cm, but the thickness may vary depending on the size of the pot), add exactly as much soil as is needed to fill the empty spaces.
  4. Be sure to make sure that the neck of the camellia (the growth point between the roots and the trunk) is not covered with earth - only the roots should go into the soil.

In most cases, camellia has erect shoots and does not need a garter.

Most varieties of camellia have erect shoots, and therefore do not need support. It makes sense to use support only if you purchase a plant with climbing and drooping shoots. But, as practice shows, most often the support is used by gardeners in garden plots for camellia, which has stems up to three meters or more.

Only flowering plants need to be purchased for planting - with careful actions, the flower will not suffer and will continue to bloom further and at the same time will quickly take root.

Care, cultivation and maintenance

There are only a few aspects, but every florist should know them.

Watering and feeding

Watering is one of the most important aspects in caring for a camellia, and here it is important to adhere to three rules:

  1. Do not use hard tap water.
  2. Do not sprinkle with cold water.
  3. Avoid excess moisture in the soil.

In the first half of the year (from January to May), it is better to take warm water for irrigation. If there is a need to maintain the desired moisture near the flower, spraying can be carried out without touching the buds and flowers. Also, next to the camellia, you can put a wide container and fill it with water.

Closer to summer, the intensity of watering is reduced, the camellia is not sprayed, but at the same time the soil under the plant is not allowed to dry out. By the beginning of autumn, the camellia is again watered more actively, with warm water, while making sure that there is no waterlogging.

For irrigation, you need to use only soft water, and tap water must be defended or boiled

What kind of water is better to use for camellia? Rainwater and melt water are great, but since it is not easy to get on a regular basis, you have to use tap water. And in this case, it must be defended or boiled so that it becomes softer.

Another very important factor for the growth and development of camellia is timely feeding. But in this matter, it is important to follow the principle of do no harm. Fertilizers should not affect the acidity of the soil, and the instructions should not always be followed exactly, especially if the fertilizer is not specifically designed for camellia. Camellia is in great need of chemical elements such as nitrogen, sulfur, zinc, manganese, copper, boron, potassium and phosphorus. Eliminate fertilizing with magnesium and calcium content - their camellia already gets it with tap water, and an excess of these elements will lower the acidity of the soil and make it alkaline. For the same reason, manure is not used. But nutritional complexes specially developed specifically for camellia, as well as fertilizers for azaleas, help perfectly.

It should be noted that all fertilizers are applied in liquid form and only after the soil has been moistened.

The best time to feed is the end of winter and the beginning of spring, when the camellia finishes flowering and comes out of dormancy. During this period, active vegetative processes begin, and feeding is very welcome. The fertilization period ends in July, and in the fall it is contraindicated to apply them, especially if you are trying to acclimate a frost-resistant camellia on your windowsill.

Camellia can be sprayed to increase moisture levels without affecting flowers.

Bloom

The most beautiful thing about growing any camellia is its flowering, which begins with the onset of winter. Some varieties begin to bloom in November. During this period, the plant is strewn with flowers from top to bottom. During this period, it is very important to cut off excess buds so that the camellia does not load itself too much. Of course, she herself will throw off the extra flowers, but at the same time the rest can be chopped up. That is why it is recommended to leave no more than two buds on each shoot. After flowering, trimming the peduncles is not required.

During flowering, it is necessary to monitor the degree of soil moisture: it should not be dry, but at the same time, excess moisture should not be allowed.

It also happens that the camellia, with all the efforts of the grower, does not bloom. Either does not form buds, or forms, but sheds them. What could be the reason for this phenomenon? The answer is obvious: any of the conditions for keeping the camellia was violated. So that you can easily and quickly find out the reason for such a failure, we will highlight the main points:

  • The option is dubious, but still: during flowering, try not to rearrange the flower from place to place and not turn it the other side. Theoretically, the camellia should not react badly to such interference in her life, but in practice anything can happen.
  • The room temperature may be higher than expected. As you remember, the optimum in winter is from +5 to + 10 ° C. The limit is + 12 ° C.
  • Bright, but diffused light - this is the requirement for lighting in winter, and if it is not met, the buds may not tie at all.
  • Lack or excess of moisture will also negatively affect the condition of the flower, and even more so on its flowering. Camellia loves watering plentifully, but not excessive watering.

Compliance with all the necessary conditions (without exception) will give green light to flowering, and then the question of the absence of flowers will disappear.

The flowering of camellia is really lush, the whole bush is literally dotted with flowers

Dormant period

The dormant period for camellia begins in winter. At this time, flowering occurs, and the vegetative processes rest until spring. You already know that at this time it is important to water the plant regularly, keeping the soil moist, but not flooding it. Also, as needed, you should remove excess buds (that is, thin out the camellia) and create such diffused lighting.

Camellia is a short-day plant, which suffices from 12 to 14 hours of light per day. But in winter, such a number of hours simply will not be typed, and the rearrangement on the windowsill on the south side of the house may not be enough, which means that it is necessary to provide additional lighting of the plant. The best lamps for this operation are the so-called phytolamps and fluorescent lamps. Thus, you need to add the remaining artificial hours to the existing natural light hours. And by good flowering, you will understand that you are doing everything right.

Not every windowsill is suitable for camellia, and even the usually desired south side can be disastrous for it.

Shaping and pruning

The aerial part should be pruned immediately after flowering, until the camellia is out of dormancy. The root system is only pruned during transplanting if you want to limit its growth and not resort to increasing the size of the pot.

Camellias are cut loosely and do this only if necessary.

Pruning usually removes weak, dry and spindle-like shoots. Thus, the crown is thinned out, and thickening is excluded. In October or November, you can pinch the shoots to provoke active growth of the axillary buds. Previously, this should not be done, since the camellia is actively forming flowers at this time.

To avoid problems, use only a clean and sharpened knife or pruner. Shoots are cut at an angle of 45 ° C, the place for cutting is chosen just above the leaf node (4 mm).

Care errors - table

Video: why is it difficult to grow camellia and what to do about it?

Diseases and pests - table

Camellia is rarely affected by diseases and pests. But nevertheless, mistakes in care can sometimes lead to undesirable consequences, the rules for the elimination of which you need to know.

Reproduction

Of course, the most inquisitive and daring gardeners are interested in how to propagate camellia at home. This can be done in two ways - by seeds and cuttings.

If you decide to use seeds, keep in mind that only the freshest planting material will do. Due to the oil content, the seeds simply will not be able to survive for a long time. The whole process consists of the following steps:

  1. The seeds are soaked for a day in a damp cloth and placed in a warm place.
  2. Each seed can be planted in a small pot (about 5 cm) or in a box at a distance of 5 cm from each other.
  3. When two true leaves appear, the seedlings dive, placing them in pots with a larger capacity (up to 10 cm).

In the future, you need to follow the traditional rules for caring for camellia, and then the plant will grow stronger before our eyes.

Photo gallery of growing camellia from seeds

The second option is to use cuttings. This method is used much more often and is considered to be more reliable. The sequence of actions is as follows:

  1. In January or July, cuttings-tops (6 - 8 cm) are cut off, which did not have time to lignify - each of them should have 3 - 5 full-fledged leaves.
  2. Cut cuttings are immediately placed in a peat-sand substrate (1: 1 ratio).
  3. In order for the cuttings to have better rooting, use the preparations Kornevin or Heteroauxin, in the solution of which the planting material is soaked.
  4. After planting, the cuttings are watered, the box is placed on the windowsill, where direct sunlight does not fall.
  5. After two months, the cuttings will take root, and then they are planted in separate containers and grown for another year, after which they are transplanted again, using a larger container for each of them.

Photo gallery of growing camellia cuttings

Reviews about growing a home flower

The main difficulty is keeping it cool in winter. Otherwise, I did not see any problems, at least in my conditions - I keep the whole year on the loggia (south), the temperature is from 5 to 40 grams, I fertilized only during the growth period, I stopped doing this from the moment the buds appeared.

Flowers are small, approximately 5cm in diameter. There is a smell, very weak, I did not like it!

Magnolia

http://forum.homecitrus.ru/topic/8179-kameliia-iaponskaia-camellia-japonica/page-5

My camellia is now grown and doubled in size. After flowering, just an explosion of growth of 10 cm immediately adds. The second has flowers twice as small, this is the mountain camellia sasanqua. Her leaves are smaller, thicker and darker in color. It grows much more slowly. I don't do anything with them in terms of pruning. Because read that camellias do not like it very much. This is the plant that needs to be taken as it is. I also did not try to root with cuttings, I know that it is very long and difficult, and the survival rate is small. Although they also said about boogie that it was difficult, but I got roots and boogie and azalea also turned out the first time. I can't say anything for sure. But I have no desire to cut my beauties.
I forgot to write that sasanqua has a light scent.

I do not acidify anything, I just pour it with boiled water as the top layer dries. I transplanted it into a mixture of soil for azaleas and litter from under a pine tree (it turned out sour). 2 times a year after flowering, at intervals of a month, I water it with a weak solution of Bona Forte azalea fertilizer. The main thing is not to transplant during growth and not to deepen the root collar.

In life, this is generally unreal beauty !!! They are not difficult at all, they just need coolness. And they also benefit - I recently read about the effect of camellias on health and the sphere of influence of camellias in the body turns out to be the heart: the plant keeps it in good shape and improves the work of the heart muscle.

vesna6

http://frauflora.ru/viewtopic.php?t=4738&st

I also got a Japanese camellia. Now, while on the street during the day from +2 to +7, I take it out onto an unglazed balcony. At night, and if the temperature is lower than +2 during the day, I bring it home. The main thing is not to forget. I sprinkle it with boiled water every evening with a spray bottle. Well, the truth is still in the special. a room where the temperature with an open window is approximately from +16 to +18 (sometimes you have to reduce the flow of water in the heating system, but basically there is no need for this. Nothing, lives. I also want a Chinese camellia (tea bush).

Arslan

http://forum.homecitrus.ru/topic/8179-kameliia-iaponskaia-camellia-japonica/page-5

I am interested in growing Japanese camellia in an ordinary room. I now have 2 Japanese camellias growing (supposedly the Triomfant variety and Bacchochi, etc.). They have been with me since the spring of 2010. Then I washed the roots and transplanted them into the soil for azaleas. They got accustomed well. There was an increase, buds were laid in the summer. But in the summer it was very hot here and there was smoke coming from fires in the peat bogs. Some leaves have dried edges. now they have dropped some of the buds, some have the appearance of half-dried. The temperature on the windowsill of the 15th floor, where they stand, is +15, the windows are southeast. And now we started to grow quite actively. Shoot buds are growing, the leaf seems to be healthy.

sergey55

http://forum.homecitrus.ru/topic/8179-kameliia-iaponskaia-camellia-japonica/page-5

I bought a camellia a year ago, I also grew on the balcony all summer and got 10-12 buds. The main problem I had and remains is when to bring it home, so that the temperatures approximately equalize and at home in the fall to create cool conditions. With abundant watering and cold temperatures at night, I got a bay. There are three buds left. One tried to open up in November, but the opal, now there is only one, is being revealed quietly. I keep it on the windowsill behind the film. The temperature of 10-15 degrees fluctuates, sometimes even lower.
I got the impression that if there is flowering on the windowsills, it is less abundant, a lot of buds fall off.
Three people from different regions, for example, camellias end up with one bud! And who has insulated loggias - already photos of camellias are laid out with more abundant flowering.

luthik

http://forum.homecitrus.ru/topic/8179-kameliia-iaponskaia-camellia-japonica/page-6

Camellia is a beautiful flower that bestows upon its owner a lush and stunning winter bloom. It is quite difficult to care for, however, if you can meet all the necessary conditions for its cultivation, then you will not want to exchange it for any other. After all, every winter he gives so many pleasant emotions, and you, in turn, can consider yourself a truly skillful and successful florist.

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Camellia: secrets of planting, care and reproduction

The camellia flower has attracted the attention of people for a long time, many legends and beliefs are associated with its name. Camellia was popular in Russia in the 19th century; secular beauties decorated ball gowns and hairstyles with flowers. Well, nowadays camellia has become a symbol of sophistication and luxury. Now she is experiencing the peak of her popularity again. If you decide to grow camellia yourself, familiarize yourself with its needs.


The origin and appearance of the plant

This aristocratic flower came to Russia from Japan and China. In these countries, camellia is used not only to decorate land. The petals of her flowers, added to tea, give it an exquisite aroma and taste.

Japanese garden camellia flowers

Camellia is a perennial shrub or tree related to ornamental evergreens. It belongs to the Tea family. There are more than 200 varieties of this shrub in the world.

The 3 main varieties that are grown in central and northern Russia include:

  • Oilseed
  • Mountain
  • Japanese.

The oil camellia reaches a height of 10 m. Basically, this species is not common on the territory of Russia. More often it can be found in forests near water bodies.

Mountain camellia grows no more than 5 m in height. Most often it is a bush growing on mountain plateaus. Differs in flowers of a simple form.

The Japanese bush camellia reaches a height of about 2 m. It was from this species that many hybrids were bred. One of the popular hybrids is Williams' camellia. It is adapted to low air temperatures. Its distinctive feature is the dropping of wilted buds from the branches. No other species will shed color on their own.

Plant flower description

Flowers of different varieties have different diameters. You can grow on your site a camellia with flowers, the diameter of which is 1 cm, or a camellia, the diameter of the flowers of which can reach 12 cm. In most cases, the size of the flower depends on the variety.

Even when purchasing seedlings of varieties that are distinguished by large flowers, you may not see those on the branches of the plant. This can be caused by improper plant care, as well as an unsuitable planting site.

Interesting! Camellia shrub is distinguished by a variety of colors. In nature, you can find white camellia, red, pink, orange, variegated, etc.

Flowers are located on the branches of the plant singly. There is no aroma. The petals are dense, with oval edges, double, semi-double and simple.


Major diseases and treatment of camellia

Like all garden and indoor plants, camellia, especially with improper care, can get sick. For example, due to the occurrence of fungal diseases, gray and black spots appear on its leaves, and brown spots on the petals. With a strong defeat, the plant generally completely throws off the foliage.

For the treatment of such diseases it is necessary to use special fungicidal preparations, but it is better to discard the "diseased" plant. Excessive moisture in the soil leads to root rot. Oidium is another disease that is common in camellias. It manifests itself in the form of grayish spots on the foliage.

Soap solutions help to get rid of it. Camellia is also sensitive to the cucumber mosaic virus, which causes yellowing of leaf veins. From plant pests that may be on the bush, it is recommended to carry out insecticide treatment.

And the biggest problem for camellias is the Solitary Skosar. This type of weevil destroys the roots, which instantly leads to the death of the plant. They get rid of the beetle beetle by spraying with special pesticides.


Watch the video: Camellias


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