Video about Abutilon... Briefly about the care of abutilon and its types. How abutilone multiplies, how to transplant it. Features of growing abutilones in indoor conditions.

Berry bushes

Perhaps it is difficult to imagine a dacha without berry bushes. There are traditional gooseberries with currants, and new settlers of our gardens - blueberries, sunberries, and other useful and beautiful berries. Regardless of your region and climate, the size of your plot and experience in gardening, you can hardly refuse planting berry bushes - after all, this is a harvest of rich in vitamins, tasty and aromatic berries, and an important element of garden design. Yes Yes exactly!

But of course, in order for plants to reach their full potential, they need to create conditions. Do you know which types and varieties of berry bushes are best suited for your garden? What place to choose for them, when is it better to plant, and what requirements should be followed? How to care for berry bushes so that they bear fruit and decorate your garden for as long as possible? Here you will find answers to many questions about these wonderful plants.

We hope that you will certainly tell us about the berries that you grow in your garden. Which of the shrubs do you especially like? What did you have to work hard to get an excellent harvest? What dangers lie in wait for your pets, and how do you cope with them?

Let's put together a real encyclopedia of experience and knowledge about growing berry bushes and caring for them!

Read also about planting, growing and caring for bushes and trees. And also about their diseases, pests and protection from various misfortunes.

Cucumber care

The main care for cucumbers is watering, feeding and plant formation. The first and main difficulty that anyone who has tried to cultivate cucumbers must have faced is the lingering flowering of barren flowers alone. We remind you that the latter are male (staminate) flowers, and their presence is absolutely necessary for fruit setting. Therefore, those who panic and start picking empty flowers are categorically wrong. If a variety growing in your city has not been selected for parthenocarp, you will simply lose your crop. However, there are competent and effective measures to accelerate the appearance of female flowers.

Three methods have already been mentioned - this is heating and hardening the seeds before sowing and sufficient distances between them in the beds. Then, it is advisable to sow seeds that are two to three years old. It has long been noticed that plants grown from last year's seeds bloom longer with barren flowers. Finally, the main thing: it is known that in most varieties and hybrids, female flowers appear primarily on the lateral shoots. And so that they grow faster, you need to pinch the top of the main stem. When and how to do it? The opinions of different specialists differ. All agree only that it is necessary to pinch the cucumbers carefully, while leaving the rudimentary leaf near the growing point. Some advise to pinch the main stem over the 5th - 6th true leaf, others recommend pinching the main stem when it reaches a length of about a meter, and side shoots - at a length of 40-50 cm, so that lateral shoots of the 2nd order grow intensively - they are pinched at a length of 25 - 30 cm. But, for example, the Altai Early 166 variety does not require pinching - at least that's what its creators think. True, occasionally he also has a protracted period of "barren flowering".

Sometimes the fruit does not set even with a sufficient number of female flowers. This means that there are no pollinating insects. There are two ways out of the situation: a) to attract bees by sowing honey alyssum, fluffy tobacco, borago and / or lemon balm next to cucumbers b) to carry out artificial pollination: tear off several barren flowers, carefully cut off their petals and carefully insert barren flowers into female flowers, so that the stamens touched the pistils.

Cucumbers are watered at the root as the soil dries up - exclusively from a watering can by sprinkling, and not with a tight stream, and even more so not from a hose - it does not take long to "wash off" the plants from the beds. As a rule, cucumbers have to be watered in two or three days, in heat and drought - every other day (I remember that in the "terrible" hot summer of 1999, as in 2010, in the middle lane, cucumbers had to be watered every day ...). But do not be zealous and do not plant a swamp: excessive watering can also cause blooming with barren flowers alone. Moreover, when the cucumbers bloom, watering is stopped completely for 4 - 5 days in order to accelerate the appearance of female flowers. But when you notice that the leaves are slightly wilted, immediately water and feed the cucumbers abundantly.

The water temperature for irrigation must be at least 22 ° C. Watering with cold water is the main factor contributing to the development of fungal diseases. In warm and hot weather, cucumbers are watered in the evening, after six, when the heat subsides. (Let us once again remember the monstrous summer of 1999 with a kind, affectionate word: until ten in the evening everything around was literally on fire, and before there was nothing to start watering, there was nothing to think about, so we suffered with watering until dark ...). On cold days, it is necessary to water at about 10 in the morning so that the wet earth warms up during the day.

Cucumbers are a very voracious crop, therefore, even on fertilized soils, they need to be fed often and generously. The best nutritional composition for feeding cucumbers is a solution of cow dung in a ratio of 1 to 7 with the addition of 10 g of urea (carbamide) per bucket. Manure can be replaced with poultry droppings at a dilution of 1 to 10. In the first two fertilizing instead of organic, mineral fertilizers can be applied, but later on, manure or poultry droppings are necessary.

The first feeding is done at the stage of two true leaves. A nutritious "surrogate solution" of mineral fertilizers looks like this: 10 grams of ammonium nitrate and potassium salt and 12-15 g of superphosphate per bucket of water. The second top dressing is after flowering. Mineral manure substitute: 15 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium salt and 20 g of superphosphate per bucket of water. In the future, the cucumbers are fed every 10 days, and when the fruits begin to grow actively - weekly. The consumption rate of the nutrient solution for all dressings is 2 l / sq. meter. Sometimes, when blooming with barren flowers, feeding with a superphosphate extract at the rate of 70 g per bucket of water at a consumption rate of 3 l / sq. meter.

Each top dressing should be followed immediately by watering, followed by each watering the next morning by loosening. Since the root system of cucumbers is flimsy and shallow, only aisles and to a shallow depth should be loosened. There is no need to huddle cucumbers. More precisely, it should be, but it is impossible - again because of the weakness of the roots. In order to enhance the air supply with carbon dioxide, you can cover the plants with fresh manure, but so that it does not touch the stems and leaves, otherwise the plants may simply "burn out".

Even in cool summers, when cucumbers grow under a film in a tunnel shelter, the latter must be regularly ventilated. Cucumbers do not like drafts and, we repeat for the hundredth time, they love a steam room, but they do not tolerate oxygen starvation. Therefore, if the weather permits, briefly remove the film from the frame, and then stretch it again. If it's hot, the film is not needed at all during the day. A difficult question - is it worth sprinkling cucumber leaves with water on hot days? Many do not dare to do this, fearing plant burns. Yes, indeed, this happens - but very rarely. Overheating is much more dangerous. Let's remember 1999 and 2010 for the third time: have you noticed how since midday the cucumber leaves hung powerlessly on the petioles, becoming like a soft clock in Dali's immortal painting "The Persistence of Memory"? The owners fiercely threw off the plastic wrap from the frames, threw in agril from the sunny side in order to shade the beds a little - it did not help. Then in the morning they decided to sprinkle cucumbers from a watering can through a strainer every two to three hours, and from lunch to six - every hour. Only this measure saved the plants.

Overheating is fraught, first of all, with the deterioration of leaf nutrition: water with nutrients goes through large conducting vessels, but does not have time to flow into small ones, since moisture evaporation from the leaf surface proceeds at an alarming rate. As a result, small vessels collapse. Then, when the heat subsides, their lumen is restored and the leaf becomes "vigorous" again. But one fine day the process of "bleeding" the leaves may become irreversible - here sprinkling saves.

And the last thing. In the open field, cucumber plants rarely reach a significant height, but nevertheless, when they grow up to 30 - 40 cm, they need to be tied over the first or second leaf with a free loop, without tightening it around the stem with a rope or twine (with a bandage it is also possible), they are pulled vertically and tied to the arc of the tunnel frame or to a wire stretched at a height of 1.5 - 2 m. This is done so that the ripening fruits do not lie on the ground and do not rot.

Can flowers be watered with boiled water?

But really gentlemen, is it possible to water the flowers with boiled water? The question is not as trivial as it might seem at first. When somewhere on a forum on the Internet the question is once again asked: "Is it possible to water the plants with boiled water?", Then a whole bunch of the same type of answers immediately appears, which, with varying degrees of expression, without a shadow of a doubt declare - NOT! The arguments are different. Someone remembers physics, someone chemistry, and someone crazy TV shows about "living" and "dead" water. What do people who use the words "living" and "dead" water mean, and what is the difference between these terms, I do not know, and I don’t want to stuff my head with this nonsense, to be honest. But is it worth calling boiled water "dead"?

For normal development, any plant requires moisture, air, nutrients and trace elements. Many growers believe that unboiled water contains a sufficient amount of salts and trace elements dissolved in water, which are necessary for their flowers. Thus, watering the flower with "raw" settled water, they not only saturate it with moisture, but also feed it. And when water is boiled, most of the salts contained in it fall to the bottom in the form of an insoluble salt sediment and the water becomes desalinated, empty and useless for plants.

Now think about this fact. In nature, the main source of moisture is precipitation, mainly rain, or groundwater. And the rain is nothing but water, and not "raw", but boiled. And even more precisely - distilled (unless, of course, it is acid rain). Where do salts and microelements come from in raindrops? Nevertheless, our wild friends of the plant grow up to themselves happily, rejoicing in the rains and do not complex about the fact that the water falling from the sky is poor in salts. And all because the substances necessary for plant nutrition enter the water (are washed out) from the soil.

Among other things, groundwater containing a large amount of salts, especially calcium salts and to a lesser extent magnesium, can be very harmful to plants. We call water containing calcium and magnesium "hard". It is she who is the culprit of scale on the walls of teapots. So, this "hard" water is found in water pipelines very often, especially if it is taken from artesian wells. And it is with such settled water that indoor plants are often watered, and their owners do not even know what a disservice they are doing to their wards.

A large number of indoor plants, such as gardenia, myrtle, saintpaulia, are very sensitive to water hardness. Constant watering with hard water leads to the fact that the soil quickly becomes saline. The roots of plants on their surface have a thin film - a membrane through which water with nutrients dissolved in it penetrates into the plant. Calcium dissolved in "hard" water gradually clogs the pores of the membrane, impairing the process of water exchange. Plants begin to wither and may even die because of this. Therefore, flower growers always try to soften the water for watering plants, using different methods for this.

Surprisingly, boiling water is one such way. When boiling, calcium and magnesium salts fall to the bottom of the dishes, and the water also undergoes a kind of disinfection, some pollutants evaporate from the water. And the lack of salts useful for the plant should be replenished not with the help of water, but with the help of special dressings and fertilizers.

So you can water the flowers with boiled water? Yes, you can. But boiled water also has disadvantages. Unlike raw, settled water, boiled water is very poor in oxygen, which vegetation needs very much. However, this disadvantage can be partially circumvented. Firstly, no one prevents you from watering the flowers with boiled water, which has stood for a while (in fact, it must cool down first), a day or two is better. During this time, she will again regain some amount of oxygen. In addition, no one has canceled the loosening of the soil, due to which the root respiration of plants occurs.

Summarizing all of the above, when deciding on watering flowers with boiled water, you must take into account the accompanying factors. Firstly, you need to look at what this particular plant growing in this particular pot in this particular soil will do more harm - from watering with unboiled water, which may contain excess chlorine, iron, calcium, magnesium, etc., or from watering boiled. There are plants that are very sensitive to calcium salts. And there are those who love calcium, and you want to keep them on a calcium ration.

If the water in your tap is hard, and other water softeners are not suitable for any reason, then boiling is quite a working and acceptable option. If you see that the plant reacts favorably to watering with boiled water, then you are doing everything right.

Feeding predatory plants and master classes on caring for them at the Tropical Winter Festival

Feeding predatory plants in the Moscow State University Botanical Garden "Apothecary Garden", which was recently held every Saturday in the public domain, can now be seen only at special master classes by appointment. The reason is that there are too many people who want to see how Venus flycatchers, sundews, nepentes and other insectivores devour crickets and flies. On Saturday afternoon, about a hundred people gathered near the arranged swamp with carnivorous plants. As a result, other plants and grass were affected.

Workshops on caring for carnivorous plants at the Tropical Winter Festival

Within the framework of Festival "Tropical winter" in the Botanical Garden of Moscow State University "Pharmaceutical garden" unique master classes on caring for carnivorous plants for adults and children. The upcoming educational and entertainment shows for the whole family will be held January 29, February 7, 16 and 20 at 17.00. More predator events await in February.

As part of the master class, the curator of predatory plants Sergey Kunitsyn will tell the guests in detail about his pets: how they grow and behave in the wild, what species exist, what they eat, who are their enemies and who are friends. Visitors will see a thematic video, and then the curator will give them a master class on the care and breeding of predatory plants at home. The format of the master class is a conversation with everyone. Guests will learn about common home care mistakes and receive detailed and clear instructions for caring for insectivores.

After that, the curator will invite visitors to the Palm Greenhouse and continue the master class directly at the tropical swamp with carnivorous plants. He will not only feed them with crickets and flies, but let the guests do it from their own hands!

By the spring, they will bring several more specimens of predators, for which all conditions have been created in the greenhouses - real ants in the soil and insects on the menu.

Master classes are held by appointment by phone +7 925 191 11 09 and +7 925 887-25-20

The size of the group is no more than 30 people. The cost is 450 rubles. For adults and children from 4 years old.

Recall that a unique collection of carnivores appeared in the Garden's Palm greenhouse at the end of December and is very popular with visitors. annual festival "Tropical Winter". As part of Tropical Winter in the Pharmaceutical Garden, you can see hundreds of types of orchids: blue-black or polka-dotted, as well as debut specimens that have previously been seen only by naturalist scientists. By the spring, they promise to bring a few more specimens of predators, for which all conditions have been created in the greenhouses - real ants in the soil and crickets on the menu.


More about the Botanical Garden "Pharmaceutical garden" and how to get to it, you can read here>

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Echeveria setosa var. deminuta (Firecracker Plant)