When and how to plant trees and bushes


To make the garden fruitful

Special horticultural literature devoted to the mass planting of fruit trees and berry bushes is not intended for owners of garden plots planting single trees and bushes. Considering this, all available in such literature recommendations for the selection of seedlings, the timing of their planting and the preparation of the planting site need significant adjustment if they are used in small garden plots.

Based on my experience and the experience of many summer residents and gardeners, I think that choosing seedlings is best in autumn, since at this time it is much easier to assess their quality. At the same time, as a rule, the choice is much wider. The seedlings still have healthy leaves, mature wood, and a developed root system. And also, importantly, they are often cheaper.

In the spring, it is much more difficult to determine the quality of the seedlings, since they are sold from the ditch, the conditions of their wintering are unknown, and it is highly likely that the roots will be frozen. It is far from always known in which zone the seedling grew, on which rootstock it was grafted. The result of all this can be the death of the plant soon after planting, which the author and other gardeners and summer residents have encountered more than once.

Practice also shows that in the fall it is much easier to choose not a three-four-year-old, but a one-two-year-old seedling, which has a balance between the underground and aboveground parts, the root system is healthier, and most importantly, the central root is well preserved when digging, which goes deeper after planting. food and moisture.

If this root is not preserved or is weakened, then the tree or bush is doomed to starvation and, as a result, to slow growth, and often death. Injuries of only individual roots, which were not previously noticed or occurred during the transportation of seedlings, can be easily corrected if they are immediately cut to healthy wood.

If you follow the literary recommendations, then the spring planting of a seedling dooms it twice: in winter, in a prikop, and in spring, after planting in an icy ground. To avoid this, plants should be acquired and planted in a permanent place in the fall, when the ground is still warm. At the same time, so that the seedlings do not freeze, before freezing, you need to put a box or barrel without a bottom on the tree and pour a mixture of earth and foliage there. Or, you can simply drive four pegs around the seedling at a distance of 60 cm and make a frame for the soil from boards, burlap or other material.

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the frame must be removed, the mixture is distributed around the trunk and watered. At the same time, as evidenced by my personal experience of twelve such plantings, the tree quickly begins to grow and develops well. In my garden for all the time there was not a single case of the death of seedlings with such a planting.

If you believe the special literature, fruit trees and berry bushes should be planted in pits 40-60 cm deep and 80-100 cm in diameter.Practice shows that on heavy clay soil, this often leads to the death of trees and shrubs after four to five years, when the pit will run out of nutrients, and with a high level of groundwater, the plant dies in the first year after planting. This is due to the fact that the root system of a plant in clay soil does not find nutrients and develops only within the pit, and being in ice water, it simply suffocates without oxygen.

To avoid the death of the plant, in any heavy soil and in soil with a high level of groundwater, the size of the holes should be doubled, and in the first case, the hole needs to be made much deeper, and in the second, seedlings should be planted on hills or an earthen embankment 50-60 centimeters high ...

In addition, in both cases, as my many years of experience show, in order for trees and bushes to take root well, get stronger and grow, various waste should be put at the bottom of the pits (pieces of wood, chips, cardboard, cans, small glass containers, the remains of plastic bottles and others) with a layer of up to 30 cm, then a layer of sod of 20 cm.And all this is sprinkled with a mixture of sawdust and shavings with lime, and a layer of garden soil with compost and complete mineral fertilizer is laid on top.

With such a planting, trees and bushes acquire a kind of double support in 3-4 years, because part of the roots penetrates through the subsoil "pillow", and part, receiving a large amount of nutrients, quickly grows in breadth. At the same time, the roots are well insulated from the cold coming from below and from the sides, they do not freeze and begin to vegetate much earlier. Their buds and foliage appear much earlier, which means that they begin to bloom and bear fruit earlier.

And I also want to say about one well-established stereotype. Special literature recommends growing fruit trees and berry bushes under the so-called "black fallow" as opposed to being kept in turfed soil.

But if in the first case, as practice shows, in the upper layer of the soil subjected to systematic cultivation - digging, loosening, etc. - the roots and rhizomes of trees and bushes are often damaged and destroyed, the humus content gradually decreases and nutrition worsens, then in the second, as a result of regular mowing of grass and leaving it in place as a mulch cover, an additional source of nutrition appears, created by the decomposition of organic matter saturated with microorganisms and worms.

At the same time, the root system, receiving good nutrition and moisture, becomes more developed, enhancing the growth, development and fruiting of trees and shrubs. For example, in the author's garden, kept in a soddy state, the yield of apple and sea buckthorn increased by about one and a half times.

Summing up, I want to say that all the agricultural practices considered here can be recommended for wider distribution.

A. Veselov, gardener


When to prune trees and bushes in spring to avoid losing crops

Adding an article to a new collection

Pruning is included in the list of mandatory measures for the care of fruit crops. It is especially important to pay attention to this procedure in the spring, when the plants are emerging from hibernation and therefore need special care.

Spring pruning, done correctly, stimulates fruiting and also helps protect trees from disease and pests. Most fruit and ornamental crops grown in garden plots need regular pruning at least once a year.


Step-by-step planning guide

It is not so difficult to make a separate garden or vegetable garden out of a plot of land in the country house, but if you want to grow both vegetable and fruit crops, then in this case you simply cannot do without a correct and thoughtful planning. How to plan your vegetable garden and garden so that they are as convenient as possible? All planning work is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Draw on a piece of paper a rough sketch of how you want your garden plot to look like. Determine in advance where the beds will be, and where you will plant fruit-bearing trees.
  2. Calculate the total area of ​​the site and divide it into zones that will be used for planting certain crops. In doing so, it is necessary to take into account the fact that it is not recommended to plant trees too close to each other. It is also worth paying attention to how to plan a plot of the garden. Everything should be thought out literally to the smallest detail in order to make the most of every meter of land for planting.
  3. Decide what kind of crops you will grow. In the garden, you can plant potatoes, as well as set aside several beds for tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and other vegetables. In the garden, you can plant one type of fruit-bearing trees, as well as several bushes of raspberries, currants and strawberries. It all depends on your desires and preferences.
  4. Determine the type of soil in your garden plot, as well as its properties. This is very important, since the quantity and quality of the future harvest depends on the quality of the soil.


Crocus reproduction

You can propagate the crocus as daughter bulbs and seeds. But the second method will take much longer. For a seed-grown bulb to gain strength and bloom, it will take 6-7 years.

Cultivation of crocus from seeds

This type of propagation is suitable for plants of those species that do not form daughter bulbs (for example, yellow crocus). Seeds are sown immediately after they ripen and are harvested in June, after soaking them in water. The soil for sowing should be fertile, moist and loose, preferably with a drainage layer.

The seeds are placed in the ground at a shallow depth. Seedlings will appear only next spring. Sometimes they need more time to germinate. Further care of young plants is simple: thinning, weeding, watering as needed and shelter for the winter.

Cultivation of crocus from daughter bulbs

Colchicum can grow in one place for 6-7 years, but due to the overgrowth of bulbs, it is recommended to replant it every 2-3 years. August is the most suitable time for planting and transplanting a flower.

The bulb during this period is dormant and has a good supply of nutrients. It is carefully dug up, dry leaves are removed and cleaned of soil. Then the bulbs are washed in water and disinfected with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Before planting, they are dried in a dry, semi-dark place and stored at a temperature of about 24 ° C.

Although the plant is undemanding to the soil, it develops better in loose and fertile soil. However, it can adapt to other types of soil and its different acidity. But the crocus does not like excess moisture, therefore, when planting it, flooded, swampy places should be avoided. The flower grows equally well in sunny areas and with slight darkening.

Colchicum is not recommended to be planted in the shade of tree crowns, where, due to dampness, there are many slugs that can eat it.

Before planting, the soil should be dug up and fertilized with mullein and superphosphate. If the soil is heavy, it must be mixed with rotted sawdust and peat.

Depending on the size, the bulbs are planted to a depth of 8-12 cm (small and medium) or 20-25 cm (large), at a distance of 20 cm from each other. The scaly tube of the bulb should peek out of the ground: a bud will pass through it to the surface.

It is good if peonies or junipers grow next to the crocus, which will distract attention from its withered foliage in the summer.

The crocus bulbs planted in August will bloom in about a month and a half.


Buttercup flower care outdoors

It does not take much time and special attention to care for this garden herb.

Watering should be done regularly, but in moderation. Excess moisture is not allowed. With prolonged rainy weather, the roots of the plant may begin to rot, so you need to use a film cover. At the end of the summer season, watering should be gradually reduced, and then completely stopped (with the appearance of wilting leaves).

For abundant flowering, a good air exchange is necessary for the root system, therefore, loosening of the soil is required.

Good flowering depends on the availability of essential nutrients in the soil. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers (at the initial stage of plant development) and complex fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus (during the flowering period) are used as top dressings. Top dressing is recommended to be applied twice a month at intervals of two weeks.

In order for the flowering period to be longer, it is necessary to timely rid the plant of dried flowers.


What plants can be planted nearby?

This is perhaps one of the most important points to figure out before planting seedlings. Plant compatibility is called allelopathy... It can be both negative and positive.

The best compatibility of fruit trees will be achieved if plants of the same species are planted nearby: apple trees with apple trees, pears with pears, cherries with cherries. But such a garden of the same type will look rather boring. That is why trees of different types grow in our gardens, which are important to plant correctly. For example, a pear will feel great next to an apple tree and red rowan, while a cherry or peach will give it a lot of inconvenience.

In the case of a positive allelopathy, trees in the garden can not only happily exist in the neighborhood, but also be mutually beneficial. Therefore, before planning plantings in the garden, it is recommended to check the compatibility table for different crops.

Walnut gets along worst of all with its "neighbors" in the garden. This tree is considered toxic and can inhibit almost all fruit crops. Therefore, if you are going to have such a plant in the garden, find a place for it on the outskirts of the site, where it will not interfere with anyone.


Watch the video: Paramount Plants: Guide to Planting Larger Mature Trees, including Root Ball and Potted Trees.


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