Why do they love adenium? This is an exotic and promising flower: each plant is individual. Only your adenium will have exactly this caudex shape and the uniquely interwoven lateral root bases underneath. Unusual adenium becomes more beautiful during flowering, thus rewarding the efforts of its owner. Adenium at home is responsive and predictable, although not very simple in content: if you follow certain rules, it will grow and develop, delighting you. You may even want to further improve the plant's appearance and stimulate flowering. It's interesting to do it. Moreover, it is easy to "get sick" with adenium. “Sick” people seem to be happy. They unite in numerous Internet communities, where they share information and photos, joys and worries, receiving advice and encouragement from like-minded people. Are you ready to fall in love with adenium or at least just grow an exotic decoration for your windowsill?
Adenium, or "desert rose", is a succulent. It grows wild in the Arabian Peninsula, in African rainforests, in the tropics of Southeast Asia. The conditions of its growth left an imprint on the appearance.
Where infrequent rain showers are regularly replaced by prolonged droughts, plants are forced to adapt to adverse conditions. Wild adenium stores moisture in a thick, fleshy stem called the caudex. Its leaves, hard and glossy (or slightly pubescent), evaporate moisture minimally.
Adult adenium in its natural habitat
Breeders, merchants and just enthusiasts have developed more than a hundred adenium hybrids based on natural varieties. From its "wild" base with five-petal pink flowers, terry varieties of various shades are obtained - from purple to snow-white. The leaves of some varieties have become variegated - white-green.
Despite all the efforts of breeders, new varieties are unstable. This means that not all seeds will grow adeniums that fully correspond to the description of the hybrid. Don't be discouraged if your pet looks slightly different from the images in the brochure.
The most popular types grown by flower growers:
Each breeding method has its own advantages. When germinating seeds, you have the opportunity to trace all the phases of development of this most interesting plant. Such adeniums usually form a beautiful, voluminous caudex. If you decide to root the cuttings, then be prepared for the fact that they will not develop a noticeable trunk in the first years. But all the properties of the mother plant, in particular the shade of the petals and the size of the flowers, will be fully reproduced (which, unfortunately, cannot be said about all adenium grown from seeds).
Adeniums are cut both in the warm season and in winter. In the second case, additional lighting is required.
The cutting can be rooted both in water and in a mixture of perlite and vermiculite (in a ratio of 7: 3). Experts who have tried both methods in practice note the insignificant advantage of the second: fewer failures.
The cruciform incision helps the root stimulator penetrate deeper into the tissues
Rooters for spilling the substrate can not be used: many experimenters note the ineffectiveness, and sometimes even harm, of the use of biostimulants. However, there are also opposite opinions.
In the substrate, the cutting will develop a root system only if the ratio of temperature and humidity is favorable. The moisture-retaining properties of perlite and vermiculite will prevent water from stagnating and the substrate from drying out. Both scanty and excessively abundant watering are equally harmful. The soil should always be slightly moist, but just slightly. If the temperature does not drop below 25–30 ° C, there is every chance of success. The roots may appear in two weeks.
Adenium cuttings develop a root system both in water and in a special perlite-vermiculite substrate
|Rooting in water||Rooting in a mixture of perlite and vermiculite|
|1. A shallow cruciform incision is made in the lower part of the cutting.||1. Cuttings are planted in a prepared moist substrate with bottom heating.|
|2. Add 1 drop of rooting stimulant per 200 ml of water to the water.||2. Cover the container with a glass or plastic "cap".|
|3. Cuttings are dipped in water. Its temperature is kept at the level of 25-30 ° C.||3. The substrate is moistened as needed.|
|4. The greenhouse is regularly ventilated.|
You can also order seeds online in winter: they are frost-resistant.
There is an opinion that the germination of the obtained seeds directly depends on their freshness. The sooner the seeds were planted after harvesting, the more harmoniously they will sprout. However, as practice shows, it is almost always possible to reproduce adenium in this way, if you do not make gross mistakes.
There will definitely not be any difficulties with the acquisition of adenium seeds.
Here is one of the germination options:
To prevent the substrate from drying out, regularly spray its surface with water warmed to room temperature. A greenhouse is not needed: the seeds must breathe. But many growers are of the opposite opinion. If you cover the plantings, do not forget to ventilate them so that the seeds do not rot.
Risk factors that can ruin the whole venture:
Germination of adenium seeds is characterized by many open questions. Happy owners often describe the exact opposite experience. This turns the procedure into an exciting experience, in which there is room for important independent decisions.
|Should the seeds be filed to make it easier for the sprout to emerge?||Opinions differ. Both sawn and untouched seeds can show excellent germination results.|
|Should the seeds be left on the surface of the substrate or sprinkled?||An excellent result can be obtained in either case. The main thing is not to bury the seeds deeply!|
|Should seed and substrate be treated with fungicide?||Without treatment, you can also achieve excellent sprouts.|
|Should the seeds be kept completely dark before germination?||There is ample evidence that darkness does not affect germination. Light is simply not needed for germination of adenium seeds.|
|Should the seeds be soaked before sowing?||Excellent results can be obtained both by soaking the seeds and sowing them dry. Recently, more and more adenium lovers are inclined towards the latter method.|
But above the surface of the substrate, at first, pale sprouts of adeniums appear. Now they need light, a lot of light! Seedlings are taught to bright light gradually, over several weeks. After their passage, young adeniums can simply be kept on the southern window in the warm season, or supplemented so that they do not stretch out (when the sun is not enough). And remember about the watering mode and temperature. You can gradually, within the framework of hardening the seedlings, reduce it from 35 ° C to 25 ° C. The absolute minimum for seedlings is 20 ° C.
The bulk of young shoots easily sheds unnecessary seed coat from the top. But sometimes it remains, crowning the plant with an unnecessary "crown". Should we remove the remnants of the seed coat or hope that it will fall off on its own? In the first case, there is a real risk, along with it, to cut off the growth point and rudimentary leaves. Then the seedling can be thrown away. On the other hand, if the plant itself does not cope with this problem, it will die too! The question is open. The only thing that is known for sure: regular and careful soaking will help the seedling to cope with the dry shell. It will become softer, and the young adenium will be able to part with it more easily.
Most adenium seedlings shed the remnants of the seed coat on their own; if this does not happen, the flower can be helped, but only very carefully
Seedlings, unlike adult plants, grow quickly. Young adeniums are picked when they acquire a second or third pair of true leaves. But if circumstances force you to do it earlier - it's okay! The seedling has every chance to take root. Plant your adeniums in separate small pots or in one wide container, always with good drainage!
Professionals advise: take care of adenium in summer like a tropical plant and in winter like a succulent plant. Then the plants will develop harmoniously.
At the beginning of the period of active growth, adeniums are transplanted. Young plants - annually, or even twice a year. Mature - once every two to three years. The soil (substrate for succulents) is replaced during transplantation. It is necessary to monitor the quality drainage of the soil. For adenium, it is preferable to grow on a south window and receive direct sunlight in abundance... In this case, choose a light pot for it: it heats up less. Adenium with a pinched tap root feels good in a low, wide pot. After transplanting, the plant is not watered for a week.
In spring and summer, special attention is paid to moistening the soil and feeding adenium. Plants are watered generously with warm water, but not too often. The substrate between procedures should dry out completely in the spring, and in the summer - only on top. It is better to pour out the water from the pan after watering.
If you reproduce as closely as possible the conditions in which adenium lives in the wild, the plant will reward with active growth. This means following this tendency: higher temperatures mean more watering.
Adenium in the phase of active growth responds well to feeding (in winter, during periods of illness, as well as at rest, they are not needed). An adult flower is fed once every two weeks with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer for succulents. It is better to dilute it by taking only 1/2 or even 1/4 of the dose indicated on the package. Young adeniums - once a week. If the plant is transplanted into fresh soil in the spring, feeding can begin in early summer.
Fertilizers for succulents in a reduced concentration are quite suitable for adeniums.
Completely organic dressings are acceptable and beneficial. They are carried out in a different mode: once every three to four weeks for adult adeniums, and once every two weeks - for young ones.
With a general decrease in air temperature, the volume of irrigation and dressing of adenium is reduced. A plant that gradually stops its rapid growth is not able to assimilate these benefits. Over the summer, it managed to master the entire earthen lump, the risk of root rot in the substrate decreased. However, overfilling in combination with a low temperature is still dangerous for adeniums.
It is also better to make the winter content of adeniums close to natural conditions:
What if there is no way to provide such conditions? Young specimens, especially those belonging to the "obese adenium" species, can continue to grow, ignoring the dormant period, especially since it is not always possible to find a place for them with a temperature of 15 ° C in an apartment. Reduce watering, do it regularly. Adult adenium in winter is watered about once a month and not fed.
There are types of adeniums, for which coolness and dryness during the rest period are mandatory: adenium Arabic, multi-flowered. Plants that “fell asleep” soundly under these conditions need a particularly gentle way out of the dormant period. It is necessary to start watering them in small portions, after a week or two of his stay in the bright spring sun, at the first hints of bud opening.
The value of adenium as a pet also lies in the fact that its owner can independently form an individual, different from other plants, appearance of a flower.
Not everyone is happy to grow a long green "hose" into which adenium will certainly turn without pruning. Its apical kidney is the most powerful. She pulls all the forces of the plant onto herself, and the lateral shoots risk never waking up.
Pruning is done to stimulate their development. The desired result is the uniform formation of several side branches instead of one central one.
Pruning the central shoot contributes to the harmonious development of several lateral branches of adenium at once
Pruning of the main shoot of adenium is done a few weeks after the spring transplant. Before the procedure, the flower should grow a fairly thick caudex (at 12-18 months). Then, predicting the appearance of future new branches, you can adjust the appearance.
Experienced growers warn against pruning the central shoot too low: then the lateral branches will develop weak.
Pruning is done with a sharp knife (blade) in the spring, with the beginning of active growth of adenium. The cut site can be sprinkled with ash or crushed activated carbon. After 40-50 days, the plant will give new branches from the axillary buds.
A pruning option is pinching: when about 2 cm still remains from the shoot.
It is possible to wake up the dormant axillary buds of adenium not only by pruning the central shoot. What if the procedure has already been carried out, and you want to further stimulate branching? Or, along with the central shoot, "wake up" and the side ones? Or does the plant need to be rescued? In this case, a cytokinin paste is used.
The result of using cytokinin paste for the development of axillary kidneys of adenium
At the end of the match, a small portion of the drug is applied to the kidney, which they want to "wake up". Will she wake up? There is no absolute guarantee. Such stimulation accelerates the development of the kidneys, which were already ready to bloom, but for some reason were delayed in development. Perhaps the cytokinin paste will never have any effect on some of them. However, with the help of treatment with the drug, it is possible in some cases to radically change the appearance of adenium for the better.
The adenium taproot is pinched at an early age, usually during the first transplant. This is done so that during the growth process it does not reach the bottom of the pot. If this happens, the plant may, resting against it, noticeably lean to one side.
Without a taproot, the plant develops an extensive fibrous root system and grows well in low, flat pots.
Pinching is done 0.5-1 cm below the lateral roots. Without a taproot, they begin to develop vigorously and get fat. At the next transplant, they can be beautifully intertwined, and the plant itself can be raised in a pot. Saline stains on the caudex with such a transplant are washed off with plain water using an old toothbrush.
Intertwined and raised lateral roots ensure the uniqueness of the adenium
It is great if the grown adenium pleases with flowers without additional efforts on your part. However, sometimes the plant needs a little help.
One of the earliest flowering of adenium on a windowsill in the middle lane was recorded in a 4-month-old plant. But usually in adenium this happens at 2-3 years of age.
Thai flower growers advise: adenium with caudex with a diameter of 18 cm or more can be made to bloom by arranging a "cold period" for two weeks after spring pruning and fertilization. After that, it is necessary for three days to gradually water the flower with fertilizer for orchids, diluted according to the instructions. And repeat the cold period. Several alternations of such stages for three weeks - and the buds will appear. After that, watering must be made complete.
Adenium bloom rewards all efforts to grow it
The main rule of watering and spraying adenium at this time: water should not get on the petals. If this happens regularly, the flowers will rot.
Fortunately, adeniums rarely get fatal. If you follow the rules of care and take appropriate measures in time, the affected plant most often returns to normal.
|What's wrong?||What is the reason?||What to do?|
|The edges of the leaves and veins on them turn yellow, small leaves dry up and crumble||lack of macronutrients: nitrogen||The introduction of ammonium sulfate or potassium nitrate.|
|A reddish tint of the leaves has appeared||lack of trace elements: copper||Regular spraying or watering with a solution of copper-containing preparations.|
|Loss of green pigment (chlorosis)||lack of trace elements: boron||Regular spraying with preparations containing boron.|
|Leaves turn yellow and fall off (not associated with a dormant period)||combination of insufficient suction capacity of roots with too low temperature|
|Soft-touch caudex||often dry potted soil||Watering more abundantly, with the same frequency.|
|Soft caudex with yellowing leaves, further examination of the plant reveals caudex rot||excessive watering at low temperatures||The prognosis is unfavorable. You can save the part of the plant that is not affected by rot and root it.|
|Slow development and gradual degradation of the plant, a noticeable white bloom on the roots||root bug - a pest of succulents||Treating the soil with a solution of the drug "Aktara" with an interval of 10 days.|
|The outer edges of the leaves roll up into tubes, the leaves look "crumpled", the top of the plant dries up||aphid defeat||Three-time treatment (spraying) of leaves with any insect-acaricidal preparation with intervals of 5 days.|
|Increasing number of small light dots on the leaves, the leaves dry out||spider mite infestation||Three-time treatment (spraying) of leaves with any acaricide with breaks of 5 days.|
In indoor growing conditions on our windowsills, adenium is not at risk of contracting tropical viruses and parasites. This is possible in Thailand and Indonesia, where there are entire "plantations" in greenhouses and outdoors, and where their seeds come from. The main enemy of our adeniums is rot.
Caudex rot is one of the most insidious diseases of adenium
Caudex rot occurs when the temperature-humidity balance is not observed. At a relatively low temperature of the earthen coma (up to 20 ° C), the roots and caudex of adenium can rot even with a single overflow. This is the main difficulty in keeping a plant at home.
Experienced breeders distinguish between dry and wet adenium rot. The plant can sometimes cope with the first by itself, isolating the affected area of the caudex. From the second, the owners of adeniums enter into an unequal battle with only one goal: to preserve the cutting of a valuable plant for subsequent rooting.
Caudex rot until a certain moment does not manifest itself in any way outwardly. And only when by the look of the plant you are ready to suspect something was wrong - characterized by rapid yellowing and falling of the lower leaves and a soft darkened caudex - it turns out that the disease has gone too far.
If you find root rot is developing, proceed as follows:
For all the manipulations with the adenium - pinching, pruning the crown, grafting - do not forget that the plant is very poisonous. Wash your hands thoroughly after working with adenium, do not let its juice get on the mucous membranes. Keep adenium away from small children and pets. And may your plants always delight you!
Air humidity of 60-70% will create comfortable conditions. A pallet with pebbles and moss will help. In winter, the flower will gain strength for flowering if it is kept at a temperature of 16-18 degrees, excluding feeding and reducing watering. A month and a half of rest is enough for the plant to recover. In addition, the flower needs determining factors:
In order for the future kobei to be resistant to external influences, cultivation from seeds must begin at the end of February. To do this, prepare the substrate, pour it into the boxes. Hollows are made in the ground 1.5 cm deep, the seeds are distributed in them with the flat side down, sprinkled with earth and lightly tamped.
The planting can be planted in peat tablets or in individual paper cups, in which it will be possible to immediately plant the young in the ground in bulk.
The soil with seeds is watered, covered with glass or foil and sent to a warm place, preferably in direct sunlight.
Do not forget to ventilate the greenhouse daily and remove condensation.
Many online stores will gladly sell you the seeds of this beautiful plant. They remain viable for a long time, so it is not necessary to look for a fresher product. Which variety should you choose? Are all varieties of plumeria suitable for keeping in an apartment? Choose your plumeria based on the size, the desired shade, the severity of the aroma of the flowers and the tone of the leaves.
Plumeria flowers are devoid of nectar. Insects, deceived by the appearance and scent of flowers, do not find food in their corollas.
You can adjust the size of the plant by cutting the roots and shaping the crown. Therefore, do not be afraid that the flower will grow unnecessarily. Nevertheless, there are dwarf varieties of plumeria, which are more convenient to maintain than full-sized plants.
Dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties of plumeria:
All varieties of plumeria bloom with fragrant flowers.
It is known that the white and yellow flowers of plumeria have a stronger scent than purple, pink and red.
White, orange and yellow flowers in plumeria of the following varieties:
Plumeria with flowers of red, pink, purple shades
If you want to grow a plant not only with beautiful flowers, but also with beautiful white-green or yellow-green leaves, choose a variety from variegated plumeria.
Garlands of plumeria flowers accompany all significant events in the life of Aboriginal people in tropical countries: births, marriages, funerals. In Bali, plumeria flowers as an integral attribute of funerals and weddings symbolize the transition from life to death and vice versa. Therefore, the plant is planted at temples and is called a temple tree.
Spectacular specimen with yellow-green leaves
|Season||Temperature regime||Humidity||Watering||Lighting||Top dressing|
|Spring Summer||From 25 ° С to +35 ° С||Periodic spraying (without affecting buds and flowers)||Regularly, as the soil dries out||Moderate amount of direct sunlight: the pot is best placed on a south window||No more than one top dressing per month|
|From 7 ° С to +15 ° С||Not required||Very rare, not required in winter||Bright diffused light||Not required|
In late spring, prepare a sunny spot for planting. Dig the earth thoroughly. Prepare planting holes, spaced at least 30 cm apart. Drainage is required. Lay it on the bottom and sprinkle it on top with a layer of soil. The roots do not like stagnant moisture.
Plant seedlings after warm weather. In June, when the air warms up to 20 ° C, plant the plants in the holes. Drizzle.
Let's consider several varieties of the plant.
For an interesting video about the germination of Grevillea seeds, see below.