The desire to diversify the garden with a variety of crops is not always successful. But as for greenery, here aspirations are rarely limited to the complexity of growing or the need to create special conditions. Therefore, for sure, what is worth starting in the beds is spinach, sowing and caring for which is not at all laborious.
In addition to being an extremely tasty, healthy, nutritious, but low-calorie leafy vegetable, it is also completely unpretentious. It is easy to find a place for rows of spinach in any, even the smallest area, and its aesthetic and compact appearance allows you to grow bushes even in a flower bed, where, in addition to being useful, it will also play a decorative role of a green culture.
Spinach is quite cold-resistant, therefore does not require a shelter
Therefore, if you decide to start growing spinach in the country, you should take advantage of its advantages:
Now that we have decided that there will always be a place for spinach, it is worthwhile to get acquainted in more detail with the basic preferences in the type of soil, the degree of moisture, the duration of illumination and the optimum temperature for development.
Video about the benefits of spinach
Planting spinach is more effective in the most luminous places, especially when sowing in spring and autumn, when the daylight hours are short. Moisture is also very important, since insufficient watering provokes shooing of plants, thereby impairing the taste of spinach and reducing the yield of its succulent leaves. And at the expense of fertilizers - even if the land for the garden is initially an acceptable structure, it is still worth improving its fertility. To do this, it is enough to add half a bucket of organic matter per 1 square meter and in the recommended dosage of complex mineral fertilizers.
Planting spinach is more effective in the most illuminated places
Now about the soil: in most cases, ordinary garden soil is fertile, loose, moist enough, perfect for growing. The only exceptions are acidic soils or too heavy, clayey with constant stagnation of water. In such conditions, most crops cannot develop safely, including spinach, so if there is no way to select another site, the existing "problem" soil should be improved.
First, about the acidity indicators. You can determine its level without special devices, just look at what weeds are growing around: bindweed and burdock - 6-7 pH and above; nettle, euphorbia and shepherd's purse - 5.5-6 pH; plantain, dandelion or wheatgrass - 5-5.5 pH, but horsetail, moss or buttercup speak of high acidity - 4.5 pH and below. For spinach, the optimal indicator will be about 6.0-7.0 pH, so if the soil is not too suitable, you should add fluff lime when digging in a dosage per 1 sq. M - 200 g, with an initial indicator of about 5 pH, and 600-750 g if the level is below 4 pH.
But with regard to high humidity and stagnant water, this problem can be solved by drainage. Depending on the degree of "clayiness" of the soil, 2-3 buckets of coarse sand should be added per 1 sq. Having dug up and thoroughly mixed the resulting soil mixture, you can evaluate the degree of its improvement - whether it has become loose or you can still add sand. Heavy soil in particular needs liming and mandatory enrichment with organic fertilizers, be it mullein, rotted manure, bird droppings, or just generous application of humus.
Heavy soils in particular need liming and mandatory enrichment with organic fertilizers
Now, knowing where the spinach will grow better, you can proceed directly to crops and plantings.
Regardless of where and how you will grow spinach, it is recommended that you follow the accepted sowing and seeding rates. Therefore, when sowing between rows, on a garden bed, in a greenhouse or open ground, it is important not to deepen the seeds by more than 2-2.5 cm and leave 20-35 cm between rows.
It is imperative to sow in wet soil, if it seems to you that the earth is dry, you should first generously shed the grooves. After waiting for the water to be absorbed, you can start sowing.
It is imperative to sow in moist soil.
With the emergence of seedlings, traditional planting care begins - regular weeding and timely watering. In addition, the quality of spinach often depends on the density of crops, so you need to control the thickening. You can break through spinach for the first time already in the phase of 2-3 leaves, while the torn out sockets should not be thrown away, and if they are immediately transplanted to another bed, they will continue to grow quite successfully. After thinning and transplanting, the plants must be well watered so that the disturbed roots can again tightly adhere to the soil.
Taking into account the early maturity of spinach, it does not require additional feeding. But if you doubt that the soil is fertile enough, you can add liquid organic fertilizers to the water during irrigation. You can prepare such nutrient solutions on your own and practically free of charge, given that everything you need can be found in your country house, on the street or from your neighbors.
|Used organics||Ratio with water||Fermentation time||Dosages of use for irrigation|
|Mullein or fresh dung||in a ratio of 1: 5|
|Bird droppings||in a ratio of 1:15|
|Green part of nettle, dandelion and other herbs||half a bucket of chopped greens are poured to the top with water|
1:10 or 1:15
|Compost||in a ratio of 1: 5|
1: 1 or pure
|Wood ash||1 glass to 1 bucket of water|
During fermentation, it is recommended to stir the solution in the container periodically for speedy ripening. And during feeding, it is important to remember that their overabundance sometimes turns out to be much more dangerous than a deficiency, so proceed with caution, especially when using bird droppings.
Here, perhaps, all the tricks and all the care, pests and diseases practically never damage spinach, due to its early maturity.
Bearing in mind the cold resistance of spinach, its first crops in the country can be started as soon as the snow melts, because already at a temperature of +4 ° C the seeds can germinate quite successfully.
Advice! growing spinach is similar in terms of requirements and care to growing radishes, so often these crops are sown at the same time and in one place.
Under favorable conditions, the first salad of young leaves can be made already after 30-40 days from the emergence of shoots
Depending on the climatic characteristics of a particular region, spinach is planted from mid-April to mid-May. But given the high moisture requirement of spinach, later planting in dry land may not bring the expected results, and this culture does not like heat either. Therefore, in this situation, the principle operates: the earlier the sowing, the better the harvest. Under favorable conditions, the first salad of young leaves can be made already after 30-40 days from the emergence of shoots. And if you want to get greens even earlier, then you can use the seedling method and first grow the rosettes on the windowsill, like a radish, and then transfer them to the beds along with a lump of earth.
Avoid worrying about seedlings, but please with an early harvest, another method will help. Even in the fall, completing the last gardening work at the dacha, sow spinach seeds in a greenhouse or just in a garden bed - their spring shoots will be among the earliest. If there is no stationary greenhouse, then when planting in open ground, it is recommended to cover the rows with a film or agrofibre, so that in spring the earth warms up faster, but does not lose moisture, and the growing greenery is clean.
Spinach growing video
Sowings in September will sprout already this year, they will endure wintering completely without losses, and after thawing in spring they will continue to grow. If sown in October, green rosettes can be seen in the first half of April after the snow melts.
And so that delicate spinach leaves are on your table from early spring to late autumn, you should select the right varieties and sow seeds periodically.
To date growing spinach is not a relevant topic for our summer residents. Although in many other countries, amateur gardeners have not only found out what useful properties spinach has, appreciated the taste of this plant, but also started grow spinachboth on their personal plots and at home.
Spinach — an annual plant from the amaranth family (haze). Fresh spinachvery rich in vitamins and minerals, it is eaten (has a slightly sour taste) all summer season, and frozen - in winter. This is an early ripening, cold-resistant culture that is easy to grow.
The plant contains calcium, iron, magnesium, vitamins A, E, C, antioxidants and folic acid. Heat treatment does not destroy vitamins A and C in spinach. True, spinach was mistakenly attributed to a high iron content, but this is a delusion.
In addition to food, spinach has a medicinal purpose... It is useful for anemia, tuberculosis, mental stress and cancer. Due to its ability to destroy cancer cells in Europe spinach it is recommended to use it daily. Contained in spinach and serotonin - the so-called hormone of happiness. (This may be why Europeans who consume spinach all the time seem to be happier and more satisfied with their lives than our fellow citizens.)
At the moment, many are zoned spinach varieties(mainly foreign selection). These are early varieties and hybrids. Giant, Fat-leaved, Rembrandt F1, Uteush F1... And varieties of later ripening dates Victoria, Godry, Matador.
Spinach is a short plant, stretching up to 20–25 cm. Its stems are smooth, "branching" depends on the variety. The lower leaves are almost triangular in shape, resembling an arrowhead, the upper leaves (those that are used for food) are broadly oval, sometimes with a pointed tip. They are smooth or slightly rough to the touch.
Spinach leaves are cut individually or in whole rosettes as they ripen
Both "male" and "female" flowers are formed on the plant. The former are located in the axils of the leaves, being collected in dense "balls", the latter form a loose inflorescence in the form of a spike or a brush of greenish color. Then small spherical fruits ripen, sometimes they are "welded" to each other by 2-3, but do not form bunches. Spinach is notable for its early maturity - it rarely takes more than two months from the emergence of seedlings to ripening of fruits.
After flowering, spinach leaves are not suitable for human consumption.
Practice shows that spinach belongs to the group of short-day plants. In this case, the leaves are larger, juicier and fleshy. The concentration of vitamin C reaches its peak by noon - during this time it is recommended to cut the rosettes. The crop is harvested when 5-8 true leaves are formed.
The health benefits of spinach are due to the presence of saturated and unsaturated organic acids, fiber, vitamins A, B, C, E, K, P, PP in an easily digestible form. Of the trace elements, sodium, potassium, magnesium, manganese, selenium, copper, iodine, iron, zinc are present in high concentration. Spinach helps to normalize the functioning of the stomach and intestines, get rid of excess weight, increase the level of hemoglobin in the blood, reduce fatigue, and increase efficiency. It is recommended for use with high blood pressure, problems with the nervous system (insomnia, chronic stress, anxiety syndrome). It has been scientifically proven to have an anti-inflammatory and tonic effect.
Spinach does not have a distinct taste. Most of its critics rightly call it tasteless. However, spinach lovers argue that there is still a taste, and each variety has its own, special.
Spinach retains its natural bright green hue in all dishes
Spinach is also widely used in cooking. In addition to fresh consumption, it can be boiled, baked, canned, dried. It is also a part of many first and second courses, cold appetizers, sauces. During the heat treatment, spinach retains its bright green color, so any dish looks very elegant. As a natural coloring agent, it is used to add color to cake creams.
Beans are the most cold-resistant garden crop. Growing it requires a certain temperature and humidity:
Due to the unpretentiousness of the plant, he does not need to create special conditions, spending money and his own free time on this. You can completely repeat the methods of growing parsley in the soil, but create a kind of a kind of microclimate for the plant. Thus, parsley can be grown on a windowsill or on a balcony, which means that parsley can be grown in winter.
Growing parsley at home can be started by sowing seeds in boxes, necessarily in prepared fertile soil, or by planting specially prepared root crops, collected, for example, during the last harvest. It is at home that you can grow parsley seedlings, so that you can later transfer it to open ground in a stronger state, but you need to think about whether it is worth doing if the plant already grows well under the correct planting and growing conditions.
Growing parsley at home, in a greenhouse and hydroponically
It is also possible to grow parsley in a greenhouse or even grow parsley in hydroponics, but doing this for your own consumption is not very profitable, which means that parsley is grown in these ways only in industrial norms or in joint planting with other herbs.
Thanks to the simplest steps and processes, you can already start growing parsley on your own in your own garden right now. Spending only some time reading our material and preparing the planting, you can provide your family with fresh greens for the whole year, and perhaps later, and organize a small, but very profitable business.
Unfortunately, even if you properly care for the crop, it will not be possible to completely prevent its diseases. In particular, radish pests make themselves felt. Therefore, the detection of parasites and the fight against them is a necessary measure to obtain a high-quality root crop.
Often the plant is infected with keel, cabbage mosaic, felt disease, powdery mildew, peronosporosis, white rot, black leg and linen.
Keela is a fungal ailment that provokes the appearance of fusiform or spherical outgrowths on the roots. They gradually turn brown, and then begin to rot. Affected individuals slow down growth and may even die.
Due to infection with mosaics, the veins on the leaves of the vegetable are pulled together, and the organs themselves are deformed and change shape. Further, a dark green edging appears on the veins, and white dead areas are formed.
Felt disease has the appearance of brown or purple spots that appear on the fruit. After that, colonies of fungi appear in place of the spots. The most comfortable environment for the development of the disease is warm and high humidity.
Powdery mildew appears on the ground parts of the culture with a grayish bloom, which gradually turns brown. The affected leaves curl and dry out, the individual itself slows down growth or completely stops it.
Peronosporosis (downy mildew) looks like chlorine spots on the top of the leaf, which become oily and yellowish. Over time, they turn brown, and a purple bloom appears on the bottom of the organ.
The black leg is manifested by the thinning of the leaf rosette and the top of the fruit.
White rot provokes the removal of colored pigment from the affected parts of the plant, then the affected areas become covered with fungus and become like cotton wool.
Belle seems to cover the organs of culture with oil paint, after which the tissues become brown and dry. Leaves with fungal spores become swollen and deformed.
The most dangerous insects for the radish are cruciferous flea beetles, scoops (garden and cabbage), cabbage flies, moths and whites, wireworms and stem nematodes.
The cruciferous flea beetle is a beetle with hopping hind legs that feeds on the leaves of crops. The pest can easily feed on young plant shoots.
The caterpillar of the scoop or cabbage whitefly feeds on leafy pulp, and the larvae of the cabbage fly damage root crops, provoking their rotting.
The nematode larvae feed on the sap of crops, as a result of which they lose their usual shape.
Wireworms consume both the leaves and the fruits of the radish.
In early November, she sowed the seeds of Argentelskoy asparagus, check the germination. I liked the germination rate - all 8 of the planted ones emerged. She prepared the substrate herself: two parts of the garden land (from the place where I later plan to plant asparagus for "permanent residence"), two parts of the leaf, one part of humus. This year I tried my Argentelska asparagus, planted with seedlings. Hmm ... For me, it will remain a magnificent shade of the greatness of the badan and the amazing beauty of the heuchera in the garden. I'm not a gourmet ...Glowworm
Asparagus is a perennial cold-resistant plant; shoots grow from its rhizome, which are a valuable food product. Asparagus lowers blood pressure, is good for the heart and liver. Young shoots, which have a juicy and tender pulp, are mainly eaten. I grow the Arzhentelskaya variety, it is early ripening, very tasty, but it reaches almost two meters in height.
Last year I decided to grow asparagus. I bought seeds of the Arzhentelskaya variety from Aelita. Soaked it, put it in a pot. When the sprouts were about 5 cm in height, I took them to the dacha, to the garden. In the first year, asparagus looked like decorative "Christmas trees" in my mother's garden with flowers (such as used to decorate bouquets). We looked at them and wondered if the vegetable was growing at all. “Fir-trees” wilted by winter, we cut them off. And in the spring, they found shoots - the same ones! True, they are still very thin! Harvesting after a year is not recommended. This asparagus is a long-lived perennial. It grows and yields a harvest for 20 years. Ripens in May - at the very beginning of the season, which is immensely pleasing. She turned out to be absolutely supportive of the Belarusian climate. I recommend taking a closer look at this culture! Healthy, tasty, effortless!
I grow Argentelskaya asparagus (from seeds), exclusively for culinary purposes. The first 2-3 years I did not touch it, then they began to cut it off in spring for food, some of the "brooms" remain, in the fall I cut everything off, mulch with compost.Marchella
I sowed Argentel asparagus seeds last year, in the spring. I read that seeds sprout for a long time (and it turned out), but I read about ways to accelerate germination after I sowed them in cups. In general, if nothing is done, it rises in about a month. And the last "slow-witted" certainly got out in a month. I took two packs, sowed two seeds each and it turned out, it seems, about forty glasses. Asparagus shoots are similar to the smaller white shoots of adult asparagus shown on the seed packet. In order for the seeds to germinate, I tried to maintain the ambient temperature around 25 ° C. On warm sunny days, he took the box out into the street. I sowed already late, in mid-April, and the first shoots appeared on May 11. In an amicable way, probably sowing in February is the very thing. After germination, the seedlings provided good illumination. Gradually he taught them to the outdoor temperatures - he began to leave them to spend the night outside and in early June (only by this time the seedlings had reached the required 20-30 cm in height) it turned out to plant them on a plot in fertile beds. By the way, they don't write anywhere, but it turned out that the winter scoop was not averse to irrevocably mowing young asparagus stalks. At this age, when asparagus has only the first and only stem from the root, its loss leads to the death of the plant. I lost four asparagus plants from the winter scoop. By September (in the Krasnodar Territory) my asparagus had grown a lot. Several plants bloomed, two bushes even formed berries, which means, in an amicable way, these bushes need to be destroyed, since women, as I read, give a lower yield and berries - the way to capture the entire area of asparagus by self-sowing. In November, I cut off the dried panicles, leaving hemp 5 cm high from the ground, poured some soil on top and covered it with tree foliage.Vitt87
The extremely healthy asparagus is easy to grow in your own backyard. The Arzhentelskaya variety is distinguished by undemanding care, stability of "fruiting" and early maturity. It bears the harvest for 15-20 years. This is practically the first thing that ripens in the garden; shoots are cut off in May. In addition, beautiful fluffy "Christmas trees" also decorate the site. The disadvantage of the culture is a short shelf life, but that is a characteristic feature of all its varieties.