By: Nikki Tilley, Author of The Bulb-o-licious Garden
If you have a male sago palm flower, it will produce a long, golden cone-like structure, somewhat reminiscent to a large pinecone. On rare occasions, males may produce multiple cones. If no female is nearby or you don’t plan on propagating additional sago plants, you can simply remove this structure from the plant without causing it any harm.
For those wishing to pollinate plants, you’ll have to wait for the scales to open (usually in late spring) to reveal the sweet-smelling pollen inside. Then you can either wait for natural pollination through wind or bees to take place or remove the cone and gently shake it over the receptive female plant.
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Read more about Sago Palms
Long-lived, slow-growing sago palm (Cycas revoluta) has 2- to 3-feet-long leaves and with age, a trunk, giving it the appearance of a miniature palm. However, it belongs to the cycad plant order, a primitive group unrelated to palms. Sago palm's ancestors dominated Mesozoic forests 65 to 230 million years ago and were probably dinosaur food. If you want a sizable sago palm and you're not prepared to invest the time to grow one, be prepared to pay a steep price.
Never make assumptions about the safety of plants. Also never assume a plant only goes by one name. Sago palms are often called cardboard palms, fern palms and coontie palms. If you hear any of those names, stay far away from the plants. Keep your children and pets away from them, too.
Sago palms are fixtures in rock gardens, sand gardens and lawns. They're also often seen near entryways. If you're ever walking with children or pets in these types of settings, keep your eyes fixed on their hands and mouths. Sago palms grow close to the ground, and because of that are easy for the little ones -- kids and pets alike -- to access. Remember, too, that the plants are spiky to the touch -- another reason to keep your distance.
The fronds of cardboard plant can grow to 3 feet long with up to twelve pairs of stiff, leathery, dark green leaflets. The foliage is evergreen and provides a great backdrop for colorful flowers in landscape beds.
If you want to use cardboard plant in your landscape, be sure to select a site that will leave the plant ample room to grow. Cardboard plants are slow growing, but can reach up to 6 feet in diameter.
The leaves grow out of a thick, fleshy trunk that serves as a reservoir in times of drought. The trunk is also where the unique looking reproductive structures arise. Male plants and female plants each produce their own cones. After the female cones are fertilized, they ripen and break open to reveal a number of tightly packed, bright red seeds.
In late spring, a mature male Sago produces a golden cone, shaped like a giant pine cone which may grow over 2' tall as shown in the photo above. A female, shown below, produces a huge golden flower which slowly opens when it is fertile, then closes, and begins to produce viable seed if pollination from a male sago was successful.
Do mature sagos flower every year? No, it usually only happens every second or third year, otherwise, they produce a new set of spring leaves, as usual.
How can you tell if a Sago is male or female when it is young, or in a 6" - 17" (15 - 40 cm) pot at the Garden Center? You can't. Most Sagos must be at least 15 -20 years old before they are mature enough to bloom, and they also must be well established in your garden or landscape. I've never seen one bloom in a pot. How big is a 15 year old? BIG! Usually they will have an 10" - 14" (30 cm) diameter trunk and a leaf spread of 5' - 6' (2 m).
In their native habit, Cycads are pollinated by wind or insects, however, in cultivation, they usually must be hand-pollinated for viable seed production. In my South Texas greenhouse operation, 100 mature male and female Cycas revoluta - over 25 years old - are ground-planted as seed "parents". Each year, about 30 males and females bloom and can produce more than 7,000 seed.
You don't need a greenhouse operation to experience the fun of growing Sagos from seed, all you need is a male and female in your yard. Or if you have one, perhaps a neighbor or friend has the other!
In the Northern Hemisphere, Cycas revoluta ("King Sago Palms") begin to flower at the end of May. Gary, our sago palm grower, and I check the blooming plants daily to determine when each is ready for pollination - timing can be somewhat critical. The female flower will open when it is ready to receive pollen, and the male cone's "scales" will open to reveal pollen and have a sweet perfume odor. At that point, we snap (or saw) the male cone from the center of the plant and shake it over the female. A cone has plenty of pollen and can be used on several females at a time, or on one several days in a row. The process is shown below:
[Note: If you don't plan to use your male cone for pollination, then it can be removed, even when first starting to grow, without any ill effects to your sago palm. There's no way to remove the female, but then the flower is rather pretty. Usually they will not grow new leaves until the fall or following spring.]
Rarely, a male sago will have several heads which can sprout multiple cones as shown above. This one is in Valdosta, Georgia and the photo is used with permission from Dr. Mink, a chiropractor.
Seed slowly develop during the summer, become walnut-size, turn from yellow to bright orange in the winter, and are ready to be removed from the "moma" Sago in January through March of the following year. Seed that are ready to harvest will easily pull off the plant and be about the size of a walnut.
If a seed is tiny or floats when placed in water, then it wasn't pollinated and won't sprout. Remove the orange skin by soaking in a bucket of water for a few days (change the water every day), then peel off the skin. Use gloves, otherwise your hands might turn orange! Once the seed has been cleaned and allowed to dry a day or two, you are ready to plant them. (If the skin just won't come off, then you probably didn't leave them on the moma plant long enough to dry the seedcoat. Just plant them skin on). Choose a shady, protected area to sprout your seed since "first leaves" can be tender.
If you don't plan to plant the seed right away, store in a cool, dry place. Before planting, soak in a bucket of water for a day to remoisturize the hard ivory seed coat. Seed can be stored for up to several months.
Fill flats or soil benches (they need to be about 5-6" or 12-15 cm deep) with well drained soil - you want the water to "perk" through fairly fast - and press the seeds 2/3 of the way into the soil so that only the top flat side can be seen. We use 50% perlite and 50% peat moss to root ours or course river sand.
Water well, press the seeds down again if some "bubble" up and water again. Use a "water breaker" - something that provides a gentle "rain", not a blast of water.
Note: I've had lots of emails asking which end of the seed to plant. You plant sago seeds on their side. To demonstrate this, take a handful, drop them on a soft floor and watch how they fall -- they fall on their sides just like if they fell out of a mother plant in the forest. Only the top flat side of the seed should peek out of the soil. Mother Nature usually covers them with falling leaves and natural mulch, but we'll have to improvise with a little extra soil almost covering them.
If you don't have lots of space to sprout your seed in pots or beds, then buy inexpensive plastic children's wading pools, drill 1/2" holes in the bottom, line with newspaper, fill at least 6" (15 cm) deep with good quality well drained potting soil , and plant your seed in rows about 1" - 2" apart. About 250 should fit in a small pool. We raise our pools on upside down pots to allow good drainage and air circulation. You may have to put screen wire over the pool and seeds to keep garden critters from helping themselves to your Sago stash!
Water the seed when the soil becomes dry about 1-2 inches down (3-5 cm). You do not want to keep them constantly wet, yet you do not want them to dry out completely. Be sure to water the entire pool or pot thoroughly - we water ours once to "wet" the soil, then after the water has drained through, water them a second time to be sure the soil is completely saturated. Do not rely on a dripper or mister system since those methods may not drench the soil properly.
Seed usually put down a tap root and then the first leaf rises upwards from the same point. The illustration shows how a "bulb" starts growing between the root and leaf. This will continue to become larger as it becomes older.
If we plant the seed in March or April, the first ones will usually began sprouting by the Forth of July. If planted late in fall, it sometimes is spring before they come up.
Usually, more than 90% of our seed sprout, although many other growers report lower figures. It may well be that they are importing and using "old seed" from the Orient or Eastern Hemisphere or cracking open the seed before planting (which encouraged bugs to chew on ours). Since we hand pollinate our Sagos, harvest them at the right time, store them properly, and plant within a few months after harvest, it gives us high success rates. We also always include some extra "bonus" seed in our sales packets sold from the nursery.
Newly planted seedlings
When all the seed in a pool, bed, or tray seem to have come up that will, then plant them in 4" pots only slightly larger than the root system. Spiral the long roots down into the pot and add soil. Do not cover the growing tip of the young sago. Adjust the soil level so that only the uppermost tip of the seedling shows.
|SEEDLING SAGO Cycas revoluta|
This 1 year old still has its seed attached. The small bulb is about 1/2" (1 cm) in diameter.
Watch the video: How to Save u0026 Trim Sago Palm